ebeneezer3

I'm pretty sure that some where I saw plans for built up "Ace foam wings". I have recently gotten RCM plans for the sopwith triplane. The article supplied says finished weight is 3lbs. I would think 3 built up wings would be lighter. Does anyone know where I can find them? I DO shudder at building 3 wings but 3 lbs. seems a bit much for a .15

Jaspur_x

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Try searching the " ace whizzard built up vs foam", I think thats thethread you mean.

That does sound a little heavy, but I don`t fly anything even close to half that large so it should sound heavy to me , so don`t just take my word for it lol

sewflynwa

Ebeneezer3,

Try here. (Hope this link inserts right)

[link]http://my.pclink.com/~dfritzke/[/link]

The Pacer uses the tapered wing, but can easily be converted to the straight wing.

Sewflynwa

cortacesped

I think Andrew Donatelli drew plans for a constant chord Ace wing.

Claudio

Andrew

ebeneezer3 -

Drawing your own set of plans for a constant chord wing is incredibly easy.

The ACE foam wing has an airfoil close to, if not exactly, a NACA2415. But your plan set from RCM should have cross-section that you can use. The original wing had a chord of 5.5" IIRC - just make sure your cross-section is very close to 5.5" . You can use this cross-section to make your rib template. I use counter laminate (formica), but you can use plywood or thin aluminum. Draw a line from the tip of the leading edge to the trailing edge - this is your chord line. Your spar notches will be made 90 degrees to this line. Pick stock for the leading edge; 1/4 x 1/2 should work nicely. Choose trailing edge stock that best matches your airfoil. I would be inclined to use 3/16" square for the spars and 1/16" spar webs 2/3 of the way out from the center section. You won't need any on the outer bays, except possibly the last. I'm lazy, so I don't cut my webs to fit between the spars; I just glue them to the sides. It gives more glue area and is quicker.

Now for the plan. I like freezer paper for drawing. Draw parallel lines 5.5" apart for the front of the LE and back of the TE. Draw another parallel line for spar positioning. Draw a series of lines perpendicular to the spar lines for rib alignment. You will probably want the sheet the center section so your center ribs will need to be cut down the thickness of the sheeting. You can use Dick's Dream planset from Dave Fritzke's site for an example. I generally set my rib spacing between 2.75 to 3.00". Wing plans really don't need to be detailed, just enough lines to get everything lined up.
You can probably figure a wing panel at 17" with tips taking up 1/2" each.

andrew

ebeneezer3

Sounds like it'll work. Thanks I'll try it

Jaspur_x

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Just  another thought,  Clancy aviation wing ribs are spaced a bit farther apart than it looks like they should be. I have  made modified wings for several planes that look odd to say the least, but fly well.

 Sine you are trying to save weight, maybe space the ribs a little farther apart than onventional wisdom would tell you to. As long as you have good constrution ( good leading, trailing edges, anmd good spars) you should be able to get away with it without losing strength, or lift..

Other than that little tidbit of info. , I would go along with Andrew`s suggestion, thats pretty much how I do it.

skaliwag

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Here is a scan of ribs very close to the Ace foam wing. I think I would put another spar (1/8 X 1/8 ) between the main and the L/Edge. Also a shear web.