Rob Howarth

That's because I was enjoying myself so much I forgot about the requirement to have an even mixture of air and fuel

Stop telling people what to do Adam - that's the Vicars job!

On a serious note I would go with the supplied felt clucks.

gingerbatics

gingerbatics

Hey Ron,

I've no experience of the Dreamworks clunk so can't comment. As for the felt clunks clogging??? Don't know! Whatever would clog your felt clunk would surely clog the UAT bag in time if using a straght through clunk ( I don't know never had one clog, just my opinion).

I used the supplied clunks and BVM clunk line in both tanks with no air being collected in the UAT.

Shouldn't be a big job to replace it and try it.

Adam

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

if you have a filter on your fueling can, and that is kept clean, you should not be having anything to clog it up with. I would check it after every season however to algea build up, however i have never seen any build up in any tanks on any of my jets ever ..


~V~

airspeed917

The clunk from Dreamworks is just a large heavy tapered brass. I still have the felt clunk so I will swap it out and give it a try. I'll let you know how it works out... thanks. Ron

Dave Wilshere

My original Flash (2006) has the same felt clunks as flight 1...
I have tygon clunk lines also...in all my CARF models.

Dw

Jet-Bob

Not good day. I had an incident on landing and noticed afterward that about 1/2 inch of the aileron live hinge is separated (near the wing tip). Any suggestions on how to repair (short of cutting off both ailerons and installing hinges).

IB

Wick a little thin cyano where the damaged live hinge ends along the hinge for about an inch, this will stop the damage travelling further. After the cyano has gone off the aileron can be raised and lowered "cracking" the hinge and it should be as good as new.

Ian B

Mavrik!

if you do this the hinge will crack off!!!

sailing1

My Feedback: (134)

jetsoverlj - A fairly common problem and one that is easy to fix. On my Classic Flash I had this delamination on one flap. the area was about 1 inch into the skin at one edge and ran almost the fill width of the flap, getting narrower as it went to the other side. I got several suggestions on how to repair and finally settled on using ZAP finnishing resin. Just lift the skin as much as possible and wick in the finishing resin being careful to keep as much as possible off of the actual hinge area. You can swab the actual hinge area (after clamping and letting the excvess ooze out) with alcohol to get any excess resin out of that area. I made a couple of balsa blocks for the outer skin to allow me to clamp the damaged area. Took care of the problem and have at least 50 flights on the repair. Hope that helps.

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

you can also use flexible ruberized CA .. this will not crack. (same stuff car guys use to glue car tires to the rims. Its black in color usually however


~V~

Dave Wilshere

I did a friends Flash elevators with Hysol/Aeropoxy. I ran a bead of grease down the hinge line from a syringe and added a curved section of air line tube to the glue gun nozzle. Squirted in aeropoxy working the surface-you don't want too much or you will get a lump in the skin and glue everywhere. Taped the surface in a down position and left to set. When set any glue that covered the bead of grease can be cracked off.

Dave

Jet-Bob

Thanks for the helpful comments. To clarify, the hinge line damage is like I took a knife and cut down perpendicularly through the live hinge. The composite material supporting the hinge is in good shape. Thin CA looks like a split vote. The rubberized CA sounds very workable. Color won't be a problem, safety is my main concern.

Craig B.

I did tests on this a few year ago when repairing a skymaster F16 hinge line. I tested zap, 5 min epoxy, 30 min epoxy etc. The WORST outcome (in that it broke almost immediately as it formed a very brittle hinge line) was observed in the sample using zap......really bad idea. You are best using a form of glue that retains a bit of flexibility if you want to go down the repair line. I ended up cutting through my hinge lines completely and replacing them with Nelson Hobby hinges.....that was on my 1/6 F16 and they are hanging in there well to this day. I am not a big fan of live hinging. I feel much safer using a mechanical hinge that is glued well in place.

Hope that helps.

Craig.

canenr

I find attaching the bellmouth to the pipe with screws, not a clean install . Any you guys attaching the bellmouth to the pipe with pop rivets? If so Aluminum or Stainless pop rivets? And what size you using?

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Canenr,

I used both. The pop rivets have held up fine in 25 flights. Not sure what they were made of but I don't believe they were aluminum.

Stan

mtnflyer14

Sorry, can't find the pics I took, but I used 1/8 inch aluminum pop rivets (3) and no problems through 10 flights.
Regards,
Gus

airspeed917

Hi guys took two flights with the Flash after I switched to the Felt Clunk, Problem Solved, there was no bubble in the UAT all.. Cant believe it was something as simple as the clunk causing the problem. thanks for the advise guys... Ron

canenr

Hi guys, anyone installed or installing the strut(landing gear) covers or fibreglass leg covers(between the wheel well and retract mount) in the wings. Any problems flying the UF without any of the two?

Dave Wilshere

Mine is still flying without either fitted...

Dave

Dave Wilshere

Here it is flying in Aberdeen (Scotland) over the weekend on our "aircraft" carrier patch that is 10' higher than the surrounding land!

Dw

Rob Howarth

Yep, I've had the gear strut covers on mine from the start. They stay on fine and cause on adverse effects to the airplanes handling. If anything I have taken the nose gear strut front door off of the airplane. This makes it handle so much better with the gear down and gets rid off the tendancy to 'shovel' its nose with the gear down whilst in the pattern. Try it - you'll notice a much better handling airplane.

Rob

c_makhija

I have the L/G strut covers on my CF which i cut out of carbon plate and its a 50-50 chance my main gear goes up even at 100psi. May work if i pressurize the system more, will just omit it in the ultra wings like Dave mentioned.

Chatty.

Dave Wilshere

Chatty

The CF covers should not affect the gear going away as the covers are straight. I have no bad tendancies with the nose door on my UF, as the landing shot shows in Aberdeen it floats in. All three UF models I have flown are the same. On the C-36 in both my CF and UF I only have 85psi.

Dw

ddlstang

My Feedback: (2)

Dave, what / how do you black out the canopy. Do you use a spry on tint ?
Thanks