cheesypoofs

Probably easier in the long run!

How is the incidence looking on yours? I have so far taken 3mm out of the rear struts and am still flying with 8 clicks of up elevator!
My top wing is at -1.5 now but the bottom wing is only +.9

Coupling in K.E. is much improved now though.

It's going to be more difficult to correct the bottom wing I suspect.

Let us know how you get on.

Andy

Jeff-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

andy, I'll check the incidence tomorrow. I'm pretty close, but the wheel pants need some serious trimming to allow the wheels to rotate! Might leave em off. What incidence should I aim for?

cheesypoofs

Well earlier efforts on this forum have suggested around +1.5 for the lower and -1 for the upper. It seems to make sense to have overall positive rather than the negative I had (-3 degrees on top and only +.9 on bottom.)
I may have set my tailplane slightly wrong as well. Mine was quite baggy in the fuselage slot and I was so intent on packing it to get it level with the wings I never gave it a thought. It sits nicely on the lower fuselage profile, but if I had made it fit the upper profile I think I would have gained .5 degree.

The design is fantastic but I am a little disappointed with the execution. Still, even with the up elevator trim it's a beautiful thing to fly.

Quality is a big improvement on my Sebach though. It has managed to tear it's own motor mount apart 3 times now. The wood is so rubbish it just de-laminates. Each fix just moved the failure point somewhere else. The second failure caused a hurried landing, not particularly hard, which pulled the undercarriage out. Half of the mounting points had zero adhesive applied. On Friday, after lengthy repairs I didn't trust it so just gently powered it up on the ground. Checked for vibes but there were none so opened up slowly to 2/3 throttle and BANG. The front plate tore loose again, leaving all my epoxy and carbon tows behind. Not good.

With the wheels, I just put spacers on the inside of the axle to move the wheel out into the open. Works a treat.

Andy

Jeff-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

Andy,
Just came up from the basement and did the same with the wheels (two washers on the inside to space them out seemed to work). I evidently loaned my incidence meter to someone as I can't seem to find it! I plan on putting the receiver underneath through the bottom wing openeing. The quality seems OK so far. I'm using some futaba S3114/3110's (I have two of each) in the wings and some older futaba coreless (S9304) for the rudder and elevator. I'm trying not to buy more servos or take the good ones out of one of my pattern planes.

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Having put together 2 of these, and flown a total of 3 of them, I recommend leaving the incidences alone. They may not be what you THINK they should be, but they all fly great. If you need up elevator, then move your CG back some. All 3 of the ones I flew had the CG near the rear of the range. All 3 of the ones I have flown have used no pitch mix. I also found out on the 2m Wind with people arguing over their thoughts, when it turned out that you just had to trim the plane with CG and maybe a slight thrust adjustment.

Arch

cheesypoofs

I admit I have never owned anything like this, but I have flown many aircraft over 20 odd years and have a rough idea (I thought) how they behave. WIth overall negative incidence I can't see how an aeroplane with a symetrical wing (or wings) can ever fly without lots of up trim and the fuselage hanging low, which is what mine did.

I wait to be educated otherwise.

Since you already fly pattern planes Jeff, just fly it and make your own mind up. I will be interested to hear your thoughts.

Andy

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Andy,

I will check later this week. I'm going to be in and out all week, but I"m thinking my bottom one was close to 1.5+ I would think the bottom would be easy to adjust just be placing a shim at the rear of the wing. This would actually adjust both wings since the top is basically set by the bottom, except for the cabane area.

I'm not saying it isn't possible that something is off, I just haven't seen it on any of the 3 I've been able to play with. What is your stab incidence? I'll try to get mine down from the top of the garage later this week when I'm back....I've basically put it up to play with only 2m stuff as contest season is starting and I've had too much fun playing with the bipe.

Another thing to check are the fairings on the wings. One guy I know didn't get them aligned very well and it was actually messing with the trim. Once he pulled them off and was more careful installing them it made a big difference,

Arch

saucedo

hey guys,have youtriedthe17/10blade?what areyourconclucion

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

I tried a 17X10 and a 17X12. I really like the 17X12 although it draws more than the 16X12, but the performance is excellent. The 17X10 works well, but the plane felt slow to me. The plane is draggy compared to the mono plane and it showed with the 17X10. Flew OK, just felt slow,

Arch

saucedo

then what do you recommend for a good board with that plane?

Lojea

Hi guys,

I have just bough a Miss wind 50e , I am planning to install a dualsky brushless 5050 C13, 350 rpm/v, 6s and 16x10 propeller.

Has anyone had experience with this brushless or help me with it.

Looking forward to hearing from you any comments about the power that I am planning to use.

Leopoldo

Jeff-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

just got the first flight in tonight. Flies great. Though for some reason I get to the field and the motor does not respond below about 1/3 throttle! Not sure what changed between home and the field. Being a a careful modeler, I flew it anyways! Anybody have any ideas on why my throttle changed?

mikee1554

Hi all

just a quick question.. Im just in the building process of my miss wind 50. How or what is the best way to set up the CoG, there has been many references to this in this thread. But having never owned a biplane before, is it top wing or bottom wing or what?? the manual states a distance inwards on the top wing ... but Im unsure where to place my finger tips to establish this point.

Sorry if it's a dumb question.. but any help would be good.. more so for it's first flight

Mikee

Roberto B.

The cg has to go where the cables goes out the top wing.
Remember to lock the top wing with the most aoa possible.
(put a wooden spacer over the front mount).

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

I agree on the CG. Mine balances right where the servo leads exit the top of the fuse. Just pick the plane up by the top wing at that position.

Arch

greggK

Hey all, I plan on using 6S. I have TP 5000mAh's and 3850's. I will fly it as a pattern plane not 3D. Will it handle the 5000's OK? Would prefer the larger packs to fly longer...
Thanks

Roberto B.

You already know that with the heavier packs you will have to fly faster and use more watts. I think the overall difference will not be so much. I'd try with the smaller pack first. Fly less, enjoy more.

mikee1554

Hi all

Having bought a Sebart Miss Wind recently... and scoured this thread for info on what to use and idea's...
I can report the plane was completed and I maidened it yesterday afternoon........ Just awesome.. on the ground and in the air.. It fly's as if on rails.. KE and much easier and just stunning as it goes past you

I finally chose these components for it.. and could'nt be happier with the choice's made

Hacker a5016s v2 motor
Power Box 85amp esc opto
Turnigy 5amp ubec
4 x Savox sh0256 digital servo's (ailerons)
Hitec Hs 5245 mg digital servo's (elev and rudder)
APC 16x10e prop

Turnigy 4000mah packs at the moment...
I also made a ply base and covered it and fitted a pilot in the cockpit

ModsI did as well
Put some extra wood,secured with resin above the landing gear to prevent the body above the landing gear being damaged on a rough/hard landing
I mounted a pair of modified Ripmax external charge lead holders where the servo leads exit the top of fuse .. for top wing ailerons
Put larger wheels on .. we fly of grass, and spats can get ripped of

The rear servos went straight in..no probs.. the aileron servo's were a little tall for wing.. so in my props box I found 8 apc propeller plastic inserts.. the smallest holed ones.. and cut them to to what looks like a oval and they slipped in perfectly and were the correct height.. bonus!!

I had 3 flights and very minor trimming a click here and there.. perfect.. I need to work on the CoG as she was a little nose heavy.. not a bad thing for it's maiden though

The Miss wind joinsmy Sebart collection. now totalling 7 4x50e sized and 3 x30e planes

I would like to thank all who contributed to this thread............ It makes life a lot easier when a decision has to be made............. Now for some decent weather, and get this bird really flying


Best wishes

Mikee

greggK

Just maidend the MissWind. Sweet plane and even sweeter in the air! Using 9 Ch. rx so have independent ailerons. The CG does need to be by the wire exit holes in the top wing 120mm at least. Hacker with 16x10, 75 ICE and TP 5000. it is a bit heavy but I get 20 min. +

One trim question that I'm not familiar with bi-planes. When I role it appears to be a bit "barrel like," should I lessen the thro on the "Down" aileron like you would for adverse yaw?

Thanks

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Gregg,

It depends on which way the plane is yawing. The easiest way is to lessen it, then fly it, and see if it gets better or worse.

Try the 16X12 or or even a 17X12. Draws more, but much better performance.

Arch

Damo260

They are awesome looking plane I have started building mine what servos you are all running...

Damo

doogiehl

Hi Damo
Servo suggestion:
4 Hitec HS-65HB servo’s for the ailerons, 2 HS-65 HB servos for each elevator 1/2and Spektrum A6010 Digital metal gear servo for the rudder.
Balances CG perfectly and avoids elevator twist seen when operating one servo. see pic

Damo260

Thanks what ESC are you running??

doogiehl

Hi Damo,
I am running Castle Creations Ice 100. Had some friends use the Hacker esc recommended and it cut off during flight. Draws too many amps if your using bigger props....right on the limits of the controller.
You will find if you run a heavier battery eg I am using thunder power 4400mah 6S 45c battery you will find it flies nicely on a 17x12 prop. I am using the Xoar wooden electric prop17x12. Speed is about right. On clamping with meter I was just drawing about 83amps on the ground.
17x10APC flying was a bit slow for me , 16x10 APC same disadvantage in the wind, 16X12 APCwas ok but with the heavier battery the Hacker was lacking in pull over the top of larger manuveresin the wind.

This was my first electric plane if I were to fit it out again I would probably use ESC with out Bec and run a separate receiver battery. I am using the powerbox sensor switch on my sebart SU 29 140. to power receiver and servos and Jeti spin 99 0pto and its much safer combination.
If you use all in one ESC if the esc dies you crash. At least you just deadstick if you have separate power supply to radio equipt.

Nb if you use the twin elevator servos if you match them you dont need to cut the piece joining the 2 elevator halves. Use the big servo for the rudder as it keeps the CG about right. If you use a smaller servo the CG will be nose heavy.
Pic I posted is actually of my friends plane Tze_Law Chan. Hes the Asian F3A Judge. I did mine exactly the same except didnt cut the piece goining the elevator halves, flies like a dream.
Regards Hanns

nosram

I also have a CC ICE 100. Originally when I bought a Sebart Wind 50e I got the Hacker package. The ESC was velcroed into the plane. As summer approached I noticed that the adhesive on the velcro was letting go, presumably temperature related. I had previously noticed that when opening the throttle for a vertical it didn't always respond! I use an APC 16x12 prop.
With the new ICE 100 I monitored current and temperature. On vertical uplines 80 amps is possible. The temperature never went more than 40 deg F above ambient, which is perfectly fine.