GAS Saito
06-30-2011, 06:20 AM
#1176
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RE: GAS Saito
[/quote]
The Saito sensor is at Top Dead Center whereas the RCEXL sensor is timed at 28 degrees Before Top Dead Center. So you will have to ''Time'' the ignition.
[/quote]
Does it mean that the plug sparks when the piston is at the top with Saito while RCEXL does
when the crank shaft is 28 degrees before the piston is at the top?
Or RCEXL has some delay circuit so that the plug sparks when the piston is at the top?
Spark timing should be almost the same I think.
Tsutomu Mabuchi
The Saito sensor is at Top Dead Center whereas the RCEXL sensor is timed at 28 degrees Before Top Dead Center. So you will have to ''Time'' the ignition.
[/quote]
Does it mean that the plug sparks when the piston is at the top with Saito while RCEXL does
when the crank shaft is 28 degrees before the piston is at the top?
Or RCEXL has some delay circuit so that the plug sparks when the piston is at the top?
Spark timing should be almost the same I think.
Tsutomu Mabuchi
06-30-2011, 04:11 PM
#1178
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RE: GAS Saito
ORIGINAL: w8ye
The spark plug sparks at 28 degrees before top dead center at full advance with both ignitions.
The spark plug sparks at 28 degrees before top dead center at full advance with both ignitions.
Tsutomu Mabuchi
07-02-2011, 06:07 PM
#1179
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RE: GAS Saito
ORIGINAL: Stiknrudder
W8ye,
There is no one out there who can install the magnet and ignition?
Rick
W8ye,
There is no one out there who can install the magnet and ignition?
Rick
Adrian [email protected]
BCCHI
07-05-2011, 05:19 AM
#1181
RE: GAS Saito
If you use the wide housing and slide it all the way advanced, it will be close to correct.
The PDF file is the original CH Ignition instructions for setting up and ignition system.
Print the degree wheel out and glue it to a piece of balsa or lite ply.
The PDF file is the original CH Ignition instructions for setting up and ignition system.
Print the degree wheel out and glue it to a piece of balsa or lite ply.
08-12-2011, 02:52 AM
#1183
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RE: GAS Saito
w8ye,
I received the info from Saito for Rcexl replacement for FG-20.
[Replace the FG-20 ignition with Rcexl ignition]
1. Pull out the drive frange(washer) the magnet is on from
the crankshaft.
2. Set the crankshaft position to TDC(fix this position if posible).
3. Install the Rcexl hall senser to the position where Saito senser
was( center bottom of the crankcase). The alminum small spacer which
Saito original senser was installed with is not neccessary to use.
4. Put the drive frange to the crankshaft at the position that the magnet
is 55deg. after the senser( counter clockwise when view from front).
Saito says 28deg before TDC is mainly for 2 stroke timing and 4 stroke
needs a bit fifferent timing since gas flow in the cylinder of 4 stroke
is different from 2 stroke.
5 Small adjustment of the hall senser can be done by moving the senser
frange.
I didn't try this setup yet, but just info only. Sorry if my translation is bad.
Tsutomu Mabuchi
I received the info from Saito for Rcexl replacement for FG-20.
[Replace the FG-20 ignition with Rcexl ignition]
1. Pull out the drive frange(washer) the magnet is on from
the crankshaft.
2. Set the crankshaft position to TDC(fix this position if posible).
3. Install the Rcexl hall senser to the position where Saito senser
was( center bottom of the crankcase). The alminum small spacer which
Saito original senser was installed with is not neccessary to use.
4. Put the drive frange to the crankshaft at the position that the magnet
is 55deg. after the senser( counter clockwise when view from front).
Saito says 28deg before TDC is mainly for 2 stroke timing and 4 stroke
needs a bit fifferent timing since gas flow in the cylinder of 4 stroke
is different from 2 stroke.
5 Small adjustment of the hall senser can be done by moving the senser
frange.
I didn't try this setup yet, but just info only. Sorry if my translation is bad.
Tsutomu Mabuchi
08-12-2011, 10:50 AM
#1186
RE: GAS Saito
ORIGINAL: eastkurt
I am also very happy with my FG36. Initially it would burp and at some occations quit on verticals, but after tweaking the needles
it was possible to get it working over the whole register and no more burpings. The engine is in a GP Giant Super Sportster and
using a wooden prop 20x8.
Here is a link to a video shot last month. [link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMZhF-Xsvz0[/link]
/Kurt
I am also very happy with my FG36. Initially it would burp and at some occations quit on verticals, but after tweaking the needles
it was possible to get it working over the whole register and no more burpings. The engine is in a GP Giant Super Sportster and
using a wooden prop 20x8.
Here is a link to a video shot last month. [link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMZhF-Xsvz0[/link]
/Kurt
08-12-2011, 10:59 AM
#1187
RE: GAS Saito
ORIGINAL: w8ye
After owning three Saito factory gas engines and observing how they run and also seeing a conversion on You Tube using the glow carb, I decided to try the original glow carb.
It works about as well as the FG-14 and FG-20 carbs do. I used a Perry oscillating pump and a Cline regulator on the Saito 150 glow carb for consistency of fuel draw. With the pump and regulator, it does much better than the FG-20 and FG-14 carbs. It is more like the FG-30 and 36 carbs.
There is little support from Horizon, Saito, or Walbro on the Saito gas carbs either. Spare parts are outrageously expensive and no one has any repair kits even for the Walbro WYB used on the bigger engines for them.
If you use some variety of Walbro carb like used on a weed whacker, you can get cheap repair kits and replacement parts at a thousand different places. But then there is a problem of mounting it on the rear of the engine.
It is such a shame about the lack of support and follow through on these beautiful gas engines.
After owning three Saito factory gas engines and observing how they run and also seeing a conversion on You Tube using the glow carb, I decided to try the original glow carb.
It works about as well as the FG-14 and FG-20 carbs do. I used a Perry oscillating pump and a Cline regulator on the Saito 150 glow carb for consistency of fuel draw. With the pump and regulator, it does much better than the FG-20 and FG-14 carbs. It is more like the FG-30 and 36 carbs.
There is little support from Horizon, Saito, or Walbro on the Saito gas carbs either. Spare parts are outrageously expensive and no one has any repair kits even for the Walbro WYB used on the bigger engines for them.
If you use some variety of Walbro carb like used on a weed whacker, you can get cheap repair kits and replacement parts at a thousand different places. But then there is a problem of mounting it on the rear of the engine.
It is such a shame about the lack of support and follow through on these beautiful gas engines.
08-12-2011, 12:47 PM
#1189
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RE: GAS Saito
P.S
Saito has released FG-17 ( 1.00 size). They say the ignition for FG-17 is much
stable. better than the previous (claim that it's a new version).
I presume the ignition is based on Rcexl or there is some technical co-operation
between Saito and Rcexl.
Tsutomu Mabuchi
Saito has released FG-17 ( 1.00 size). They say the ignition for FG-17 is much
stable. better than the previous (claim that it's a new version).
I presume the ignition is based on Rcexl or there is some technical co-operation
between Saito and Rcexl.
Tsutomu Mabuchi
08-12-2011, 04:04 PM
#1190
RE: GAS Saito
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
w8ye, I have a Kavan 50cc 4 stroke twin and I just placed aRcexl ignition on it. There is room I would say for a small walbro carb I think. What size would you recomend? Or would you use a pump and stay with the glow carb on it? Thanks Capt,n
ORIGINAL: w8ye
After owning three Saito factory gas engines and observing how they run and also seeing a conversion on You Tube using the glow carb, I decided to try the original glow carb.
It works about as well as the FG-14 and FG-20 carbs do. I used a Perry oscillating pump and a Cline regulator on the Saito 150 glow carb for consistency of fuel draw. With the pump and regulator, it does much better than the FG-20 and FG-14 carbs. It is more like the FG-30 and 36 carbs.
There is little support from Horizon, Saito, or Walbro on the Saito gas carbs either. Spare parts are outrageously expensive and no one has any repair kits even for the Walbro WYB used on the bigger engines for them.
If you use some variety of Walbro carb like used on a weed whacker, you can get cheap repair kits and replacement parts at a thousand different places. But then there is a problem of mounting it on the rear of the engine.
It is such a shame about the lack of support and follow through on these beautiful gas engines.
After owning three Saito factory gas engines and observing how they run and also seeing a conversion on You Tube using the glow carb, I decided to try the original glow carb.
It works about as well as the FG-14 and FG-20 carbs do. I used a Perry oscillating pump and a Cline regulator on the Saito 150 glow carb for consistency of fuel draw. With the pump and regulator, it does much better than the FG-20 and FG-14 carbs. It is more like the FG-30 and 36 carbs.
There is little support from Horizon, Saito, or Walbro on the Saito gas carbs either. Spare parts are outrageously expensive and no one has any repair kits even for the Walbro WYB used on the bigger engines for them.
If you use some variety of Walbro carb like used on a weed whacker, you can get cheap repair kits and replacement parts at a thousand different places. But then there is a problem of mounting it on the rear of the engine.
It is such a shame about the lack of support and follow through on these beautiful gas engines.
With a Walbro made specifically for one of the four stroke weed whackers (with the return spring on the pump diaphragm), you can just use intake manifld vacuum pulses to run the pump.
I'm trying to remember but I think the Walbro for the Ryobi four stroke wed whacker was a WT-435? There was a Zama version also. But I like Walbro carbs.
If there is room for a Walbro, by all means, use one.
08-12-2011, 04:39 PM
#1191
RE: GAS Saito
w8ye, thanks for the tip. I will be doing some sort of mod...I want the same mixure all the time. When I get this engine fool-proof as possible...it will see some use in a airplane....I hope! Best Regards Capt,n
09-08-2011, 06:07 PM
#1192
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RE: GAS Saito
Got a question,
1st for background information. I have a Saito FG14. At first I had problems getting it to run reliable. It would cut out, sputter, etc.(see post 1126) With your help I traced down the problem to fuel flow due to fuel lines in the tank failing. I finily got a type of fuel line that stay flexable and does not develop pin holes.
I now have about 2 gallons of fuel through it. I have noted that there seems to be no compression. I mean that when the engine is not running I can rotate the prop 360 degrees as many times as I want and never feel any resistance. When I start it however it runs beautifully with never a hint of stopping. It pulls my 40 size spacwalker with athority and quite fast at full throttle. In fact most of my flights are at half or less throttle.
Is this normal, or should I be conserned that something is not right and needs attention?
1st for background information. I have a Saito FG14. At first I had problems getting it to run reliable. It would cut out, sputter, etc.(see post 1126) With your help I traced down the problem to fuel flow due to fuel lines in the tank failing. I finily got a type of fuel line that stay flexable and does not develop pin holes.
I now have about 2 gallons of fuel through it. I have noted that there seems to be no compression. I mean that when the engine is not running I can rotate the prop 360 degrees as many times as I want and never feel any resistance. When I start it however it runs beautifully with never a hint of stopping. It pulls my 40 size spacwalker with athority and quite fast at full throttle. In fact most of my flights are at half or less throttle.
Is this normal, or should I be conserned that something is not right and needs attention?
09-08-2011, 09:37 PM
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RE: GAS Saito
Thanks w8ye, I will check that. Makes since, I can see how it would stick when the engine is not got exaust pressue pushing the valve closed but when the engine is running pressurecould help close the valve.
09-09-2011, 02:02 PM
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RE: GAS Saito
Thanks for the info. It is good to know. I had that problem with one of my 125 Saitos, but the valve just gor stuck open on accosion and the engine would not run till I cleaned it and reset the valve. I have 2 FG20's 1 FG30 and1FG36 and have been luck enough to not run into this with them. I will now though be alert to the possible problem.
Thanks again,
Thanks again,
09-16-2011, 04:35 PM
#1197
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RE: GAS Saito
Late thread joiner here, so apologies in advance if this has already been covered. Bought an FG-20 earlier this year to use in a Cub. Found that mounting inverted causes interference of the ignition sensor with the inside of the cowl. With the engine mounted as far forward as possible (i.e., sensor up against the cowl), thrust washer is still about 1/4" - 3/8" short of where it needs to be. Thinking about machining an aluminum spacer to extend the thrust washer, but thought somebody must have already come up with a solution. Horizon tech support was unable to offer any suggestions.
Bob
Bob
09-17-2011, 02:12 PM
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RE: GAS Saito
I have an FG-36 in my 27.5% 71in span 17lb weight Bucker Jungmeister which I scratch-built from my own plans this summer. The engine pulls the model very nicely through large selection of airshow style aerobatics (ie no 3-D which I don't do 'cos I can't) using an APC 18x8, and sounds great. The engine starts and throttles faultlessly, running on 20:1 gas/oil ratio. I ran the engine in for over two hours on the bench before installing it in the model, which has now had 15 great flights averaging around 12-15 minutes each.
The last pic shows how I have arranged to collect the crankcase breather oil. This seems to work well with the inverted engine.
Gordon
The last pic shows how I have arranged to collect the crankcase breather oil. This seems to work well with the inverted engine.
Gordon
09-18-2011, 12:30 PM
#1200
Senior Member
RE: GAS Saito
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Let us know how 55 degrees advance on the ignition works out for you?
Mine run good at 28 degrees advance.
Let us know how 55 degrees advance on the ignition works out for you?
Mine run good at 28 degrees advance.
The little 91 is mounted in my Goldberg Tiger 2 and gets several workouts a week. It's starting to look a little grungy and in need of a bath but since beginning to run Redline oil at 20:1 I haven't had the exhaust valve stick on me a single time. I don't keep track of total time on that engine but it hasn't stuck in well over 30 to 40 hours of run-time. I'd be curious to know how his setup turns out at 55 degrees btdc.