moshiko79

Look at mySD 36
Power by os 50 hyper with jett muffler,prop 9x9
Enjoy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnqc7...layer_embedded

Textanker

Shalom, Moshiko!

Your plane is set up almost exactly like mine! Awesome. I am going to try the 9x9 prop. Do have any idea how fast it was going?

Best Regards.

moshiko79

I think it passes the 130mph[8D]

maxxteezy

Hey, do you mind showing me how you got your os 50sh to fit a prop? I've got one mounted to my p40 world models and I need to find a prop driver to mount on it.some pics would be nice, thanks.

pencon

I always go up a size or two on the engine. The old rip the wings off story is bs , as long as you brace things up a little and don't use the crappy stock dihedral brace .

jg95762

My Feedback: (2)

I have had a SD36 for several months and am not sure which engine to us. I has a OS46, OS55, YS63 and and electric Eflite Power 32 all sitting around. I am concerned that all of my glow options are too heavy. I really would prefer to make this plane scream with a glow motor but since I have so many motors sitting around I don't want to buy anything new. Any ideas?

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Have you even seen this plane??? It has a two piece wing on a tube, no dihedral or brace!

The one that one that failed in the vid posted on the first page of this thread failed at the end of the wing tube, no way to reinforce that area... It looks like the spacing between ribs is on the large side, a sub spar aft the main spar would go along way.. I took mine back after seeing that vid, I wanted a 130mph plane not a 100mph plane, the air frame can not support that kind of speed.... Just my .02

jg95762

My Feedback: (2)

Yes I have seen it, or at least the picture on the box! The box is on a shelf in my garage - I like to look at the picture most days. I love the look of the plane. I bought it on sale - 20% off. So basically I was a sucker for the look of the plane. Maybe I need to buy and OS32 then and figure out how to reinforce some areas. Thanks for the reply.

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

John,
my post wasnt geared at you, it was to the guyI quoted talking about the D. B.

I too like the looks of the plane and went out and bought one as soon as they came out, was planning on putting a bigger motor in it and having a screamer, (130mph+) plane.. After I seen the Vid on the 2nd pg of this thread where the wing ripped off, I changed my mind and took it back to my LHS... The pics that he posted showing were it failed, was enough to turn me away... I still like the plane and think if set up for a 100mph plane, close to the suggested motors, it will be a fun plane... The only wayI could see beefing up the wing panels, involved stripping the covering, sheeting and getting in a sub spar aft the main spar, A lot of work.. Sorry if you thought i was replying to you, put a recommended size motor in yours and have fun with it...

Jimbo

RealViking

My Feedback: (5)

I have finally found an airframe that fits my old HP 40s. I have installed a rear induction engine to the reinforced motor box. A tetra 5 1/2 oz Bubbleless fueltank.
Not ready yet but i thought I share a couple of pictures of the cool looking aircraft. The engine turns a APC 9x6 16K, I will try a APC 7.5x7.4 carbon prop.

Pete Bergstrom

Guys,

I am the product developer on this airplane and when using the suggested engines (EVO 40NX) or Power 32 setup it is an honest 120 mph airplane - exactly what it was designed for. When you add larger engines to go faster you might gain the extra 10-15 mph you are looking for but you are also adding 8-12 ozs of additional weight to the airplane (the EVO 40NX weighs 10 oz's w/o the muffler). Now, if you never had to turn it at speed you would never have any issues with the wing, but if you are talking about an arguable 10 G turn at speed (if not a lot higher) you have just added an extra 100+ oz wing loading to the wing structure in the turn. We have actually done G-loading experiments with our pylon racers and at speed a good #1 pylon turn will be upwards of 25+ g's.

If we designed airplanes for every possible engine scenario that a customer would put into the airplane they would end up being overweight, highly loaded and fly poorly, especially in the landing phase (tip stalls, etc). Our goal with this airplane is to give our cutomers a fun airplane that any intermediate level pilot will be successful with while providing the adrenaline rush that a fast airplane provides.

You will have a blast using the airplanes as designed. Please don't put the product down because it won't survive a power system above what we recommended and designed the airframe around.

Pete

RealViking

My Feedback: (5)

I agree with Pete,
Keep it light! The HP40 is light 11oz with muffler (I love those engines and the sound thru the hollow muffler, had my first in Sweden 35 years ago.)
As an old drag racer I know that you can not get your racer light by doing one big thing, you have to do a hundred small things and it will all add up.
The Sundowner 36 is great and with a great set of hardware. I did change the plastic spinner to an aluminium since I start tagging in to the higher RPMs.
So keep it light with the right servos, batteries and receiver.
I did strengthen the motor box, not that I think it would break but my Q500 experience tells me I prioritize rigidtybefore weight. The engine will actually rev higher
on a sturdy airframe. Personalizing my aircraft I added some checkered covering, just happens to be where structural damage was done to downed Sundowner 36.
One other thing I do to aircrafts where I push the envelope is to add CA or Epoxy to seams in critical areas.
The Sundowner 36 is an awesome aircraft, cant wait to get her airborne.

jimy1321

I had { keyword } until yesterday the .50 version & also tend to over power. plane was a blast to fly but didnt seem to like the added weight on landing  when the added weight is not running !!!  lol

gchdavid

Being as though this airplane has a fully sheeted wing, is there any benefit to removing the covering and doing lightweight fiberglass on the entire wing for strength? Or do you think it will still fail because there just isn't enough structure under the skin regardless?

I ask because I plan on installing a fully throttled Jett BSE Q500 engine (Mr. Jett will build it as requested) with a 8.75x8.75 pylon prop, I know its not a 50sx or such but we all know what the racing 40's are capable of. I want to reinforce the wing, just want to make sure that breaking the nice factory skin is necessary to stand up to say, 130-140mph.

Best regards,

Chris

Textanker

Mine has the OS50SX with the Jett Pipe. About a month ago I had a buddy help me withe some radar gun runs. I was flying flat and level downwind with about a 5-6mph breeze. Fastest speed was 129mph after several runs and then engine had leaned out in the air a bit. I can put it in a full throttle shallow dive and then do a full-pull bank and yank and nothing has failed yet. I really don't think that you are going to need to add any strength to the wing. I feel that it is a strong design. I just think that my buddy's wing wasn't glued together as well as it should have been. Having said that, we are overpowering these planes, and failures are part of the game.

gchdavid

Interesting, that is good to know. I still would want to know if there is any actual strength improvement from glassing the entire wing on the surface. I would hate to find out that my wing was glued like your buddy's while I'm going 130mph...

Thanks for the input.

Best regards,

Chris

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

gchdavid DO NOT GLASS the whole wing. waste of time and will add to much weight to the plane. you need to strip the covering of the bottom of the wing. open it up and stregthen the spars with shear webs or the best is a truss set up. Also the jett 40 engine will be a bit of a waste in this draggy air frame. that engine needs to spin up in the 18,000+ which me little props or that "pylon" prop. If you run that prop on this plane it will not be as fast as you think. If you want a good 140-145 plane you will need to run a Jett 56 with regular 9x8 prop, dubbs race wheels with no wheel plants, fix the wing, make a stronger horizontal tail and seal all gaps.

To the other guy with the OLD HP just use the 9x6 or maybe even a 9x7 APC with 3/16" cut of the tip off the 9x7. this would be faster than the APC carbon 7.4x7.8 prop. This plane needs a bit more thrust.

Headhunter70

question,what would would be your setup for SD 35 to beat the Jackal 50 ? (Jackal runs a with a Jett .56 and 9x8)

gchdavid

Good to know, I will do that. If I have to make a stronger Stab I guess I'll make one with a thin airfoil while I'm at it.

Also, I am not getting a Q40 engine or even a 428 class Q500 engine which need to spin 20000rpm+ to work properly. It is a 426 class engine and its meant for a "normal" 8.75"x8.5 prop (not the small carbon ones) and spins it at about 18000-19000rpm.

Thanks for the info.

Chris

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

I agree with Airraptor here. To go fast one has to look at the complete package. For any engine that makes it's peak power at anything over 17,000 RPM you need a clean airframe otherwise you just won't get the engine to unload in the air into it's powerband. If you do it will be too small a prop to pull the airplane. IMO if I were to build this one and want to get it into the 140 mph area I would start by beefing up the wing by making sure the wing spars and wing socket are a unified unit then when assembled I would roughen up the wing tube and epoxy the wing in place. I think anything short of this will cause a failure. Plug in wings are just not well suited for high G turns. The next thing and have been doing this on all my pylon aitplanes is make a new stab with a nomex honeycomb core and sheeted with 1/16 balsa. I then glass with 2 layers of 3/4 oz cloth. The last thing is a powerplant. YS 70 and run whatever Prop and nitro Richard Verano reccomends.

mike early

Any new advice or stories of failures to report?