Affixing hull halves & retailing watertight integrity
06-29-2011, 07:25 PM
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Affixing hull halves & retailing watertight integrity
Since I have yet to find a suitable 1:96 scale paddlewheel from which to create a tinclad gunboat, I decided to start an attempt to RC a 1:96 scale Kearsarge model.
Now, I’ve constructed 1:96 scale RC models before, but, having come from the Scale Shipyard, these models are all based around solid, single piece hulls.
The Kearsarge, on the other hand, is based on a hull that is cast in two pieces that will need to be joined lengthwise with a glue that will preserve a watertight bond between these pieces while standing up to the stresses that will be applied to the hull by the force of the water outside it, the electric motor turning the prop, and the stress on the masts applied by the sails in addition to the stress of being removed from the water.
What glue, or other bonding material is best for this task?
Now, I’ve constructed 1:96 scale RC models before, but, having come from the Scale Shipyard, these models are all based around solid, single piece hulls.
The Kearsarge, on the other hand, is based on a hull that is cast in two pieces that will need to be joined lengthwise with a glue that will preserve a watertight bond between these pieces while standing up to the stresses that will be applied to the hull by the force of the water outside it, the electric motor turning the prop, and the stress on the masts applied by the sails in addition to the stress of being removed from the water.
What glue, or other bonding material is best for this task?
06-29-2011, 10:19 PM
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RE: Affixing hull halves & retailing watertight integrity
I would do it in two steps:
1) Fasten the two sides together with a slow CA
2) Fill in the seam with a slow set epoxy
The reason for the two step method is that the CA will give a little time to position the sides and then hold almost instantly, making a quick build. The problem with CA is it's brittle so it won't handle the additional stress you were refering to. Backfilling the seam with epoxy will give you the stress resistance CA won't and at the same time will increase the hulls strength considerably. I would test the epoxy on a parts tree first to make sure it won't eat the plastic since I know the Kearsarge is a somewhat rare kit. I got lucky in finding the kit I have, almost 10 years after buying the Cutty Sark, Alabama and Constitution. When I found it, I had to buy it to complete my set
1) Fasten the two sides together with a slow CA
2) Fill in the seam with a slow set epoxy
The reason for the two step method is that the CA will give a little time to position the sides and then hold almost instantly, making a quick build. The problem with CA is it's brittle so it won't handle the additional stress you were refering to. Backfilling the seam with epoxy will give you the stress resistance CA won't and at the same time will increase the hulls strength considerably. I would test the epoxy on a parts tree first to make sure it won't eat the plastic since I know the Kearsarge is a somewhat rare kit. I got lucky in finding the kit I have, almost 10 years after buying the Cutty Sark, Alabama and Constitution. When I found it, I had to buy it to complete my set
06-30-2011, 03:04 AM
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RE: Affixing hull halves & retailing watertight integrity
Try looking for plastic epoxy.....I'm assuming your model is made from plastic. Getting the right glue is the key....regular epoxy will usually flake off after a very short while. Epoxy designed for plastics actually chemically melts into the surface a little before it hardens creating an unbeatable chemical bond that won't let go.
Check out this here.... www.plasticepoxy.org/ This is just one brand that I personally use. Found it better than most out there.
Check out this here.... www.plasticepoxy.org/ This is just one brand that I personally use. Found it better than most out there.
06-30-2011, 07:13 AM
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RE: Affixing hull halves & retailing watertight integrity
On the other hand, assuming a styrene hull, having prepared the mating surfaces so that they are going to be a snug fit, and having tacked the two halves together with dabs of cyano to ensure that they are correctly aligned, just run a fillet of styrene cement from the tube down the seam from inside the hull and let capilliary action draw it in. Then apply a modest pressure by gently clamping. The styrene cement works by dissolving the styrene that its in contact with. The two surfaces, having melted and being in contact, when the solvent evaporates, form a welded join. When its dry, a second run should fill any gaps left from the first time.
My ten year old Snowberry was done this way, has had plenty of mis-handling including ramming the concrete bank a few times, and the four hull parts are still solidly together. Since the join is effectively the same plastic as the rest of the hull, it was, and remains, just as waterproof as the rest of the hull. It also has the same coefficient of expansion, so changes in temperature are less likely to stress the join.
06-30-2011, 12:25 PM
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RE: Affixing hull halves & retailing watertight integrity
ORIGINAL: What glue, or other bonding material is best for this task?
I'm not going to assume because I have seen half hulls made out of different materials. What IS your hull made out of?
-Rich.
06-30-2011, 02:46 PM
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RE: Affixing hull halves & retailing watertight integrity
Rich,
Thank you for asking...
The kit is made by Revell, and the hull halves appear to be made of styrene or a similar plastic
Thank you for asking...
The kit is made by Revell, and the hull halves appear to be made of styrene or a similar plastic
