Offical nitro tc3 thread
07-27-2011, 09:00 AM
#1076
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
Oh, that's simple. You can either get rims with an inboard offset, you can get wider wheels and tires, or what I'd do considering the nature of that shell, is do the former in the front and the latter in the back. I believe, don't hold me to this as I'm not that well versed on the offsets, but I believe a +3 offset standard width tire in the front and a normal offset 31mm tire in the back would do the trick. It'd also look right, given that cars with that style of body in real life tend to have narrower fronts.
As for obtaining these tires, just about any hobby shop sells 'em. So does Tower Hobbies. Great selection too, several different rim patterns and tires for you to use. Even foams if you want to buy in bulk and still run out at the end of the month.
As for obtaining these tires, just about any hobby shop sells 'em. So does Tower Hobbies. Great selection too, several different rim patterns and tires for you to use. Even foams if you want to buy in bulk and still run out at the end of the month.
07-28-2011, 03:27 PM
#1077
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
378,
I did what you said and removed the 2 speed and cleaned it and put grease on the set screw bearings as the manual said but I do not hear or see a distinct shift. I put it up so the wheels are in the air and try to tweak it but there is no shifting. I tried to throttle it up slowly to see what it would do it and it didnt do a thing. I just dont know. I have 11 full tanks thru it and I have nothing.
Also, what temp should I be running at? I see a range between 190 and 230.
Thanks
Joe
I did what you said and removed the 2 speed and cleaned it and put grease on the set screw bearings as the manual said but I do not hear or see a distinct shift. I put it up so the wheels are in the air and try to tweak it but there is no shifting. I tried to throttle it up slowly to see what it would do it and it didnt do a thing. I just dont know. I have 11 full tanks thru it and I have nothing.
Also, what temp should I be running at? I see a range between 190 and 230.
Thanks
Joe
07-28-2011, 06:41 PM
#1078
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
210 to 290 is the normal range for the engines. If you're running between 190-230 you're too rich.
I've got mine rich enough to puke smoke out and the summer heat still gets it well into the range so don't be afraid to thin it out. AE's engines are tough enough to take it, they don't need to be babied. Maintained, sure, not abused helps, but they don't need the gentle treatment. You simply may not be revving high enough to shift. As long as you're getting blue smoke on throttle you aren't too lean, and after 11 tanks the engine can surely handle it.
I've got mine rich enough to puke smoke out and the summer heat still gets it well into the range so don't be afraid to thin it out. AE's engines are tough enough to take it, they don't need to be babied. Maintained, sure, not abused helps, but they don't need the gentle treatment. You simply may not be revving high enough to shift. As long as you're getting blue smoke on throttle you aren't too lean, and after 11 tanks the engine can surely handle it.
07-30-2011, 04:12 PM
#1079
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
378,
I still have not gotten it to shift. I have taken it apart and back together twice with no luck. I went to the LHS and got a new pair of the clutch shoes and what I did notice is that the shoes were different. The new ones had a 1 and 2 on it like that manual said they would and I looked at the ones that came with the RTR were 2 and 3. The bearing from the set screw was too big for the new shoes so that might be an issue, I also noticed that there was NO diff grease in the rear so I opened the front diff case and the same thing, NO diff grease, not even residue from where the gears would mesh and sling.
Now the engine is giving me fits. I get it going good and then it seems like it over heats and quits. Now when the motor stops nitro starts spraying out of the carb, it kinda sounds like it is boiling. Once it is cooled down I watch the fuel as I am trying to start it and dont see the fuel rising to the carb, if I put my finger over the intake the nitro will flow. I must be doing something wrong because I cannot keep my HPI MT2 running either. It started fine and when I thought I had it right, it stopped and will not start. I know the factory settings for the MT2 but what is it for the NTC3? I have read on most engines the low speed is 1 turn out from the closed position and the HSN is 3 turns out.
Also, I am using 30% nitro and did so for break in, should I go down to 20%? and I have mine in stored in my workshop where it can get up to 110 degrees, will that degrade the fuel?
Thanks
Joe
I still have not gotten it to shift. I have taken it apart and back together twice with no luck. I went to the LHS and got a new pair of the clutch shoes and what I did notice is that the shoes were different. The new ones had a 1 and 2 on it like that manual said they would and I looked at the ones that came with the RTR were 2 and 3. The bearing from the set screw was too big for the new shoes so that might be an issue, I also noticed that there was NO diff grease in the rear so I opened the front diff case and the same thing, NO diff grease, not even residue from where the gears would mesh and sling.
Now the engine is giving me fits. I get it going good and then it seems like it over heats and quits. Now when the motor stops nitro starts spraying out of the carb, it kinda sounds like it is boiling. Once it is cooled down I watch the fuel as I am trying to start it and dont see the fuel rising to the carb, if I put my finger over the intake the nitro will flow. I must be doing something wrong because I cannot keep my HPI MT2 running either. It started fine and when I thought I had it right, it stopped and will not start. I know the factory settings for the MT2 but what is it for the NTC3? I have read on most engines the low speed is 1 turn out from the closed position and the HSN is 3 turns out.
Also, I am using 30% nitro and did so for break in, should I go down to 20%? and I have mine in stored in my workshop where it can get up to 110 degrees, will that degrade the fuel?
Thanks
Joe
07-31-2011, 01:30 AM
#1080
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
ORIGINAL: topflight-RCU
378,
I still have not gotten it to shift. I have taken it apart and back together twice with no luck. I went to the LHS and got a new pair of the clutch shoes and what I did notice is that the shoes were different. The new ones had a 1 and 2 on it like that manual said they would and I looked at the ones that came with the RTR were 2 and 3. The bearing from the set screw was too big for the new shoes so that might be an issue, I also noticed that there was NO diff grease in the rear so I opened the front diff case and the same thing, NO diff grease, not even residue from where the gears would mesh and sling.
378,
I still have not gotten it to shift. I have taken it apart and back together twice with no luck. I went to the LHS and got a new pair of the clutch shoes and what I did notice is that the shoes were different. The new ones had a 1 and 2 on it like that manual said they would and I looked at the ones that came with the RTR were 2 and 3. The bearing from the set screw was too big for the new shoes so that might be an issue, I also noticed that there was NO diff grease in the rear so I opened the front diff case and the same thing, NO diff grease, not even residue from where the gears would mesh and sling.
Now the engine is giving me fits. I get it going good and then it seems like it over heats and quits. Now when the motor stops nitro starts spraying out of the carb, it kinda sounds like it is boiling. Once it is cooled down I watch the fuel as I am trying to start it and dont see the fuel rising to the carb, if I put my finger over the intake the nitro will flow. I must be doing something wrong because I cannot keep my HPI MT2 running either. It started fine and when I thought I had it right, it stopped and will not start. I know the factory settings for the MT2 but what is it for the NTC3? I have read on most engines the low speed is 1 turn out from the closed position and the HSN is 3 turns out.
2: Is it smoking when you hit the gas? You should be getting blue smoke at all times.
3: Do you have sufficient vent holes cut in the body?
Also, I am using 30% nitro and did so for break in, should I go down to 20%? and I have mine in stored in my workshop where it can get up to 110 degrees, will that degrade the fuel?
08-02-2011, 06:57 AM
#1081
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
378,
I got it to shift finally. I sent an email to AE and let them know my issues about the clutch numbers being wrong and it not shifting. They told me I must have used the wrong grease on the clutch bearing and my reply was I used there grease, the Black steath grease and gave hime the part number. Then he replied back to not use any grease at all, I did that and with a little tweaking I got it to shift. I still have minor adjustments but it shifts. I dont quite undersatnd the reasoning, I followed the instruction and added grease and it didnt work but not doing what the manual said fixed it?!@#%$.
They still had no answer about the clutch numbers but the only thing I can figure is the put the "Sure Shift" clutches in the RTR cars and those clutches have a 2 and 3. Maybe those dont need grease?
Thanks for all your help.
I got it to shift finally. I sent an email to AE and let them know my issues about the clutch numbers being wrong and it not shifting. They told me I must have used the wrong grease on the clutch bearing and my reply was I used there grease, the Black steath grease and gave hime the part number. Then he replied back to not use any grease at all, I did that and with a little tweaking I got it to shift. I still have minor adjustments but it shifts. I dont quite undersatnd the reasoning, I followed the instruction and added grease and it didnt work but not doing what the manual said fixed it?!@#%$.
They still had no answer about the clutch numbers but the only thing I can figure is the put the "Sure Shift" clutches in the RTR cars and those clutches have a 2 and 3. Maybe those dont need grease?
Thanks for all your help.
08-02-2011, 07:02 AM
#1082
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
Hey, at least it was AE. They have good support. 
Yeah I've noticed my two speed isn't greased either, the dust on it just blows right off. It shifts every time I build enough revs. And no prob, that's why I'm here.
Well, that and random wise cracks/pop culture references. [&:]
Yeah I've noticed my two speed isn't greased either, the dust on it just blows right off. It shifts every time I build enough revs. And no prob, that's why I'm here.Well, that and random wise cracks/pop culture references. [&:]
08-04-2011, 06:41 PM
#1083
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
Hey everyone! I have recently stumbled upon some information that everyone might like to know about....
A few years back, when the Electric TC3 was all huge and popular, Team Associated made a Rally Conversion Kit!
Awesome, I know! Don't get too excited though, the full E-TC3 kit does NOT fit the NTC3 car.
The kit supplies longer a-arms and CVD's extending the E-TC3's width to 200mm. The NTC3 is already 200mm wide.
The kit also supplies a "rally" style front bumper. This front bumper is not compatible with the NTC3 chassis.
However, here is the suspension information. All of these suspension components can easily be fit onto your NTC3 for higher ground clearance and longer suspension travel. Get your rally on!
The Team Associated TC3 Rally Kit shock shafts are part # 6461 and are .56" travel.
The front rally spring part # is 6494 and are Green springs.
The rear rally spring part # is 8232 and are Black springs.
Use #2 shock pistons in the front shocks.
Use #1 shock pistons in the rear.
Use 25w shock oil in all 4 shocks.
Make these shock changes and add some rally tires, and you'll be tearing up the dirt in no time!
A few years back, when the Electric TC3 was all huge and popular, Team Associated made a Rally Conversion Kit!
Awesome, I know! Don't get too excited though, the full E-TC3 kit does NOT fit the NTC3 car.
The kit supplies longer a-arms and CVD's extending the E-TC3's width to 200mm. The NTC3 is already 200mm wide.
The kit also supplies a "rally" style front bumper. This front bumper is not compatible with the NTC3 chassis.
However, here is the suspension information. All of these suspension components can easily be fit onto your NTC3 for higher ground clearance and longer suspension travel. Get your rally on!
The Team Associated TC3 Rally Kit shock shafts are part # 6461 and are .56" travel.
The front rally spring part # is 6494 and are Green springs.
The rear rally spring part # is 8232 and are Black springs.
Use #2 shock pistons in the front shocks.
Use #1 shock pistons in the rear.
Use 25w shock oil in all 4 shocks.
Make these shock changes and add some rally tires, and you'll be tearing up the dirt in no time!
08-04-2011, 06:47 PM
#1084
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
ORIGINAL: MrBlargMan
The Team Associated TC3 Rally Kit shock shafts are part # 6461 and are .56'' travel.
The front rally spring part # is 6494 and are Green springs.
The rear rally spring part # is 8232 and are Black springs.
Use #2 shock pistons in the front shocks.
Use #1 shock pistons in the rear.
Use 25w shock oil in all 4 shocks.
Make these shock changes and add some rally tires, and you'll be tearing up the dirt in no time!
The Team Associated TC3 Rally Kit shock shafts are part # 6461 and are .56'' travel.
The front rally spring part # is 6494 and are Green springs.
The rear rally spring part # is 8232 and are Black springs.
Use #2 shock pistons in the front shocks.
Use #1 shock pistons in the rear.
Use 25w shock oil in all 4 shocks.
Make these shock changes and add some rally tires, and you'll be tearing up the dirt in no time!
Oh my. I've already modded mine as best as I can for rally running. I'm currently using the gold springs and the spring perches from my CEN, along with droop screws removed, in order to obtain some ground clarance and travel.
Ok, my Tower wish list has just gotten that much more expensive.
08-05-2011, 04:48 AM
#1085
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
ORIGINAL: MrBlargMan
Hey everyone! I have recently stumbled upon some information that everyone might like to know about....
A few years back, when the Electric TC3 was all huge and popular, Team Associated made a Rally Conversion Kit!
Awesome, I know! Don't get too excited though, the full E-TC3 kit does NOT fit the NTC3 car.
The kit supplies longer a-arms and CVD's extending the E-TC3's width to 200mm. The NTC3 is already 200mm wide.
The kit also supplies a "rally" style front bumper. This front bumper is not compatible with the NTC3 chassis.
However, here is the suspension information. All of these suspension components can easily be fit onto your NTC3 for higher ground clearance and longer suspension travel. Get your rally on!
The Team Associated TC3 Rally Kit shock shafts are part # 6461 and are .56" travel.
The front rally spring part # is 6494 and are Green springs.
The rear rally spring part # is 8232 and are Black springs.
Use #2 shock pistons in the front shocks.
Use #1 shock pistons in the rear.
Use 25w shock oil in all 4 shocks.
Make these shock changes and add some rally tires, and you'll be tearing up the dirt in no time!
Hey everyone! I have recently stumbled upon some information that everyone might like to know about....
A few years back, when the Electric TC3 was all huge and popular, Team Associated made a Rally Conversion Kit!
Awesome, I know! Don't get too excited though, the full E-TC3 kit does NOT fit the NTC3 car.
The kit supplies longer a-arms and CVD's extending the E-TC3's width to 200mm. The NTC3 is already 200mm wide.
The kit also supplies a "rally" style front bumper. This front bumper is not compatible with the NTC3 chassis.
However, here is the suspension information. All of these suspension components can easily be fit onto your NTC3 for higher ground clearance and longer suspension travel. Get your rally on!
The Team Associated TC3 Rally Kit shock shafts are part # 6461 and are .56" travel.
The front rally spring part # is 6494 and are Green springs.
The rear rally spring part # is 8232 and are Black springs.
Use #2 shock pistons in the front shocks.
Use #1 shock pistons in the rear.
Use 25w shock oil in all 4 shocks.
Make these shock changes and add some rally tires, and you'll be tearing up the dirt in no time!
08-05-2011, 05:14 AM
#1086
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
ORIGINAL: Jake C6R
This is great info, thanks! What is a good rally wheel & tire combo for this setup?
ORIGINAL: MrBlargMan
Hey everyone! I have recently stumbled upon some information that everyone might like to know about....
A few years back, when the Electric TC3 was all huge and popular, Team Associated made a Rally Conversion Kit!
Awesome, I know! Don't get too excited though, the full E-TC3 kit does NOT fit the NTC3 car.
The kit supplies longer a-arms and CVD's extending the E-TC3's width to 200mm. The NTC3 is already 200mm wide.
The kit also supplies a ''rally'' style front bumper. This front bumper is not compatible with the NTC3 chassis.
However, here is the suspension information. All of these suspension components can easily be fit onto your NTC3 for higher ground clearance and longer suspension travel. Get your rally on!
The Team Associated TC3 Rally Kit shock shafts are part # 6461 and are .56'' travel.
The front rally spring part # is 6494 and are Green springs.
The rear rally spring part # is 8232 and are Black springs.
Use #2 shock pistons in the front shocks.
Use #1 shock pistons in the rear.
Use 25w shock oil in all 4 shocks.
Make these shock changes and add some rally tires, and you'll be tearing up the dirt in no time!
Hey everyone! I have recently stumbled upon some information that everyone might like to know about....
A few years back, when the Electric TC3 was all huge and popular, Team Associated made a Rally Conversion Kit!
Awesome, I know! Don't get too excited though, the full E-TC3 kit does NOT fit the NTC3 car.
The kit supplies longer a-arms and CVD's extending the E-TC3's width to 200mm. The NTC3 is already 200mm wide.
The kit also supplies a ''rally'' style front bumper. This front bumper is not compatible with the NTC3 chassis.
However, here is the suspension information. All of these suspension components can easily be fit onto your NTC3 for higher ground clearance and longer suspension travel. Get your rally on!
The Team Associated TC3 Rally Kit shock shafts are part # 6461 and are .56'' travel.
The front rally spring part # is 6494 and are Green springs.
The rear rally spring part # is 8232 and are Black springs.
Use #2 shock pistons in the front shocks.
Use #1 shock pistons in the rear.
Use 25w shock oil in all 4 shocks.
Make these shock changes and add some rally tires, and you'll be tearing up the dirt in no time!
The Tamiya tires to not require foams and are VERY good on mud and snow though.
08-05-2011, 07:49 AM
#1087
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
Cool, thanks. It looks like those tires will fit on a standard sedan wheel like some Ihave laying around.
I have a FTNTC3 with a OS .12 and a second one that is just a stock one with a AE .12 - Ihave been thinking about what to do with the slower stock one and this might be fun!
I have a FTNTC3 with a OS .12 and a second one that is just a stock one with a AE .12 - Ihave been thinking about what to do with the slower stock one and this might be fun!
ORIGINAL: 378
I'm running Tamiya's Rally Block tires on HPI's standard sized D-hole touring car rims. The only problem I have is on-pavement grip(Hint: there is none!). HPI also makes some rally tires, modelled after the Pirellis used in actual WRC rallying, that might have more on-road grip, but I couldn't obtain a set when I was buying tires. They're somewhat hard to find.
The Tamiya tires to not require foams and are VERY good on mud and snow though.
ORIGINAL: Jake C6R
This is great info, thanks!What is a good rally wheel & tire combo for this setup?
ORIGINAL: MrBlargMan
Hey everyone! I have recently stumbled upon some information that everyone might like to know about....
A few years back, when the Electric TC3 was all huge and popular, Team Associated made a Rally Conversion Kit!
Awesome, I know! Don't get too excited though, the full E-TC3 kit does NOT fit the NTC3 car.
The kit supplies longer a-arms and CVD's extending the E-TC3's width to 200mm. The NTC3 is already 200mm wide.
The kit also supplies a ''rally'' style front bumper. This front bumper is not compatible with the NTC3 chassis.
However, here is the suspension information. All of these suspension components can easily be fit onto your NTC3 for higher ground clearance and longer suspension travel. Get your rally on!
The Team Associated TC3 Rally Kit shock shafts are part # 6461 and are .56'' travel.
The front rally spring part # is 6494 and are Green springs.
The rear rally spring part # is 8232 and are Black springs.
Use #2 shock pistons in the front shocks.
Use #1 shock pistons in the rear.
Use 25w shock oil in all 4 shocks.
Make these shock changes and add some rally tires, and you'll be tearing up the dirt in no time!
Hey everyone! I have recently stumbled upon some information that everyone might like to know about....
A few years back, when the Electric TC3 was all huge and popular, Team Associated made a Rally Conversion Kit!
Awesome, I know! Don't get too excited though, the full E-TC3 kit does NOT fit the NTC3 car.
The kit supplies longer a-arms and CVD's extending the E-TC3's width to 200mm. The NTC3 is already 200mm wide.
The kit also supplies a ''rally'' style front bumper. This front bumper is not compatible with the NTC3 chassis.
However, here is the suspension information. All of these suspension components can easily be fit onto your NTC3 for higher ground clearance and longer suspension travel. Get your rally on!
The Team Associated TC3 Rally Kit shock shafts are part # 6461 and are .56'' travel.
The front rally spring part # is 6494 and are Green springs.
The rear rally spring part # is 8232 and are Black springs.
Use #2 shock pistons in the front shocks.
Use #1 shock pistons in the rear.
Use 25w shock oil in all 4 shocks.
Make these shock changes and add some rally tires, and you'll be tearing up the dirt in no time!
The Tamiya tires to not require foams and are VERY good on mud and snow though.
08-05-2011, 07:53 AM
#1088
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
ORIGINAL: Jake C6R
Cool, thanks. It looks like those tires will fit on a standard sedan wheel like some I have laying around.
Cool, thanks. It looks like those tires will fit on a standard sedan wheel like some I have laying around.
I have a FT NTC3 with a OS .12 and a second one that is just a stock one with a AE .12 - I have been thinking about what to do with the slower stock one and this might be fun!
My suggestion for the slower car: Yank the AE 12, fit a two speed, and drop in an OS 18 CV-RX. You'll have more power than you know what to do with, and if my car is anything to go by it can handle the power just fine. The extra power and torque will also come in handy on grass, I can handle up to an inch deep if I keep the throttle wide open. Any taller than that and the wheels just spin helplessly in the air though [&:]
Your diffs may be more worn than mine though, if you roast them then look for some Ofna LD-3 diffs. Gear diffs, steel ring/pinion, and they drop right in. People run .28s with those diffs in NTC3s, our smallblocks will never break them.
08-06-2011, 07:24 AM
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
ORIGINAL: 378
Of course it is. This is a damn good car, it's cheap, it's reliable, and it can do so much more than the box says.
You still got yours?
Of course it is. This is a damn good car, it's cheap, it's reliable, and it can do so much more than the box says.
You still got yours?
Yes Iagree. Easy as hell to work on on parts are cheap and plentiful. Maybe a little lower tech nowadays but there are still some of us running them!I'm looking forward to this conversion, already have the two speed so it should be relatively inexpensive!
Ican't dump the AE.12 yet, Ihave a new piston, sleeve and crank Igot for next to nothing on eBay that have been sitting with the rest of my extra parts for ages. Ithink Iwill rebuild the .12, break it in and wear it out before Itoss it!Then time for a .18!!!
08-06-2011, 07:40 AM
#1092
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
ORIGINAL: 378
Your diffs may be more worn than mine though, if you roast them then look for some Ofna LD-3 diffs. Gear diffs, steel ring/pinion, and they drop right in. People run .28s with those diffs in NTC3s, our smallblocks will never break them.
Your diffs may be more worn than mine though, if you roast them then look for some Ofna LD-3 diffs. Gear diffs, steel ring/pinion, and they drop right in. People run .28s with those diffs in NTC3s, our smallblocks will never break them.
08-06-2011, 08:26 AM
#1093
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
ORIGINAL: Jake C6R
Yes I agree. Easy as hell to work on on parts are cheap and plentiful. Maybe a little lower tech nowadays but there are still some of us running them! I'm looking forward to this conversion, already have the two speed so it should be relatively inexpensive!
I can't dump the AE .12 yet, I have a new piston, sleeve and crank I got for next to nothing on eBay that have been sitting with the rest of my extra parts for ages. I think I will rebuild the .12, break it in and wear it out before I toss it! Then time for a .18!!!
ORIGINAL: 378
Of course it is. This is a damn good car, it's cheap, it's reliable, and it can do so much more than the box says.
You still got yours?
Of course it is. This is a damn good car, it's cheap, it's reliable, and it can do so much more than the box says.
You still got yours?
Yes I agree. Easy as hell to work on on parts are cheap and plentiful. Maybe a little lower tech nowadays but there are still some of us running them! I'm looking forward to this conversion, already have the two speed so it should be relatively inexpensive!
I can't dump the AE .12 yet, I have a new piston, sleeve and crank I got for next to nothing on eBay that have been sitting with the rest of my extra parts for ages. I think I will rebuild the .12, break it in and wear it out before I toss it! Then time for a .18!!!
Rebuild it and stash it with the other car? I'm sure with an overhaul done it will make more or less what the OS 12 does unless you've got a 12TZ or something. Or maybe you could rebuild it and sell it to offset the cost of the OS 18?
08-06-2011, 09:10 AM
#1094
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
Yeah that's an idea also. The Factory Team one has a OS .12TR turbo head that just screams. Unbelievable how quick it goes from 0 to holy crap! I can find .18's on fleabay pretty cheap and the AE .12 might not have enough power for rough terrain, even with the rebuild. Big difference between the OS and the AE .12s. Maybe someone would want the .12 with the parts for rebuild, if Isell it cheap enough.
08-06-2011, 01:26 PM
#1095
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
Yeah, I have my doubts as well. The 18 CV-RX is designed for heavy, 7-12LB monster trucks, so it slings these light onroads around with authority.
See, what I'm thinking is you could rebuild the AE 12, then sell it on eBay or craigslist for ~50 bucks. That will offset a third of the OS's brand new cost, meaning you'll only be a hundred bucks out of pocket there.
See, what I'm thinking is you could rebuild the AE 12, then sell it on eBay or craigslist for ~50 bucks. That will offset a third of the OS's brand new cost, meaning you'll only be a hundred bucks out of pocket there.
08-07-2011, 06:04 PM
#1096
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
Well the AE.12 needed a rebuild for sure now. Iran about half a tank today when it died and wouldn't start. So after a new glow plug, etc and still no start Iknew something broke. Itook the engine apart and the piston has some nice scores in it!Ican clearly see what happened. The circlip holding in the wrist pin came out for some reason. It left two nice straight gouges up and down perfectly lined up with the hole in the piston. Then apparently it broke and one piece went down the piston a little distance away from the other two grooves. Very nice straight scores from the top of the piston to the bottom. The rest must have blown out the exhaust.
Lucky for me Ihave a new piston, sleeve and crank ready to go, but no circclip!LOL. So...
Perfect time to order a couple of $1.50 circlips, and since no one wants to pay shipping on $3 in parts, I had to add the other shock parts you listed earlier, to conplete the rally conversion. Also, Ihave an extra new set of 2.2 Dirt Hawgs (fronts) and also one slightly used set that are about the same size as the rally tires you recommended, already mounted on some yellow dish wheels!Here are the dimensions of the Dirt Hawgs: Height 3.53" (90mm)Width 1.28" (33mm).
The Tamiya TGXrally tires you recommended are Height 3.125" and Width 1.25", so not quite as tall but since Ialready have the Dirt Hawgs what the hell Iam going to give them a go. The Dirt Hawgs are acually buggy front tires for my 1/10 buggy so I will run the fronts all around on the NTC3!
I will have to cut the bumper to make them fit but Ithink they will work. Did you leave the rest of the cut stock bumper or change it to somethine else?
Hell if nothing else it will be fun just to convert the thing and see how fast Ican get it going with these huge tires!
Lucky for me Ihave a new piston, sleeve and crank ready to go, but no circclip!LOL. So...
Perfect time to order a couple of $1.50 circlips, and since no one wants to pay shipping on $3 in parts, I had to add the other shock parts you listed earlier, to conplete the rally conversion. Also, Ihave an extra new set of 2.2 Dirt Hawgs (fronts) and also one slightly used set that are about the same size as the rally tires you recommended, already mounted on some yellow dish wheels!Here are the dimensions of the Dirt Hawgs: Height 3.53" (90mm)Width 1.28" (33mm).
The Tamiya TGXrally tires you recommended are Height 3.125" and Width 1.25", so not quite as tall but since Ialready have the Dirt Hawgs what the hell Iam going to give them a go. The Dirt Hawgs are acually buggy front tires for my 1/10 buggy so I will run the fronts all around on the NTC3!
I will have to cut the bumper to make them fit but Ithink they will work. Did you leave the rest of the cut stock bumper or change it to somethine else?
Hell if nothing else it will be fun just to convert the thing and see how fast Ican get it going with these huge tires!
08-07-2011, 08:59 PM
#1097
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
Running the Tamiya tires I didn't cut the bumper at all. The tires did wear some grooves into the foam though. They are a few mils larger in diameter than a normal sedan tire due to the tread blocks.
The dirt hawgs, my friend, won't clear the exhaust or the radio tray. You'll get away with it in the rear but not the front. I don't advise trying to run them.
The dirt hawgs, my friend, won't clear the exhaust or the radio tray. You'll get away with it in the rear but not the front. I don't advise trying to run them.
08-08-2011, 04:45 AM
#1098
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
ORIGINAL: 378
Running the Tamiya tires I didn't cut the bumper at all. The tires did wear some grooves into the foam though. They are a few mils larger in diameter than a normal sedan tire due to the tread blocks.
The dirt hawgs, my friend, won't clear the exhaust or the radio tray. You'll get away with it in the rear but not the front. I don't advise trying to run them.
Running the Tamiya tires I didn't cut the bumper at all. The tires did wear some grooves into the foam though. They are a few mils larger in diameter than a normal sedan tire due to the tread blocks.
The dirt hawgs, my friend, won't clear the exhaust or the radio tray. You'll get away with it in the rear but not the front. I don't advise trying to run them.
08-08-2011, 06:17 AM
#1099
RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
lol, I figured as much...hey, does your steering turn more one way than the other? Mine does even when the servo's disconnected, and I don't have EPA adjustments to fix that. I'm using a Spektrum DX5e radio, so all I've got is trim adjustment and whatever the linkage will give me.
08-08-2011, 10:29 AM
#1100
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RE: Offical nitro tc3 thread
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lol, I figured as much...hey, does your steering turn more one way than the other? Mine does even when the servo's disconnected, and I don't have EPA adjustments to fix that. I'm using a Spektrum DX5e radio, so all I've got is trim adjustment and whatever the linkage will give me.
lol, I figured as much...hey, does your steering turn more one way than the other? Mine does even when the servo's disconnected, and I don't have EPA adjustments to fix that. I'm using a Spektrum DX5e radio, so all I've got is trim adjustment and whatever the linkage will give me.
