slevin1

My Feedback: (23)

Randy it's time to fly it! Is she ready to go?

Saul

cgcrc

Hi Saul;

Agreed, I'm anxious to see her fly myself.

Almost there, just have to mount the throttle and choke servos, install the power box, receiver and batteries, glue in the side windows then interior, hook up the pull pull system for the tail wheel.

I'll keep you posted.

Regards
Randy

Ozflyboi

Hi Randy,

Looks like the 185 is almost complete. What a monster to look at though now with all the wings attached.

I am eager to seeing this bird flying also.

Keep the posts coming as well as the photos.

Steve

cgcrc

Hi Steve;

Good to hear from you, and thanks for all the info re the Optotronix nav lights, that's the next "hurdle".

Just the small things to do on the model but it still takes time figuring out locations for batteries, power boxes, engine ignition modules etc.
I was waiting for a reply from Tommy to confirm the C/G and control rates (throws).
C/G is similar to your 182, the rates are the same. I added a little more elevator and rudder than what he suggested re float application.

I just fabricated a wing root template so I can hang the model re the C/G.
It will be interesting to see how this balances with the 3W 212, Tommy maintained it should be pretty close.

Nice looking model when it is assembled, it would be nice to see it beside your 182.

I'll be in touch.

Regards
Randy

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Wow Randy, Fantastic C185 !! You'd be one really happy chappy aye?

Did I see you have a Hangar 9 (?) Taylorcraft on floats?? My KMP C185 is resting due to some deceleration trauma and so I am thinking of using the floats off it for my Hangar 9 Taylorcraft....

Could you please help me with some measurements... to get mine attached please?? Very much appreciated if you could

cgcrc

Hi beaver 180;

Nice to hear from you, yes, I'm really lookimg forward to finishing the C-185 build and test flying it.

Just back in from the north where I do some float flying. The T craft model I have is one of the original. I used a sport foam core float from Sea Commander.
Very bouyant and works quite well on the model. I think they are 48" in length (I'll double check) , the model weighs approx. 19 lbs. I'm using a Saito 180.

I also have a KMP C-185 but it's still in the box in storage. I forget the float dimensions, you'll have to refresh my memory.

If you like, send me an e-mail through this forum with your address and I'll get the info you need.

Regards
Randy

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

Between working on the C-185 model and family vacation I have been hard at it getting things ready for engine start up and flight.

“Finally I’m there�.

I’ll have to give Tommy his dues, I appreciate the time he takes in his assembly process. True, he does have employees to assist him and having done other builds in the past certainly is in his favour but it does take alot of work.

If I were to build another C-185, I now have my own instruction manual and the experience from the first. I did add a lot of personal mods (without adding weight), a second model would take half the time.

Tommy got it “spot on� for the weight and balance (C/G). We had spoken about this earlier in the build. Looking at his C-182 and engine selection I didn’t know if the 3W 212 b4 was too much weight up front. He indicated at the time that due to the larger aft section and tail to the 185 it should balance out OK. He was correct. (see attached pics)

I rigged two ¼� plywood wing root ribs with a hole drilled in the center of the wing spar location. (as per discussions with Tommy) then attached to a winch system.

I also figured out a pull pull system for the tail wheel which works very well. (see attached pic)

Nice “toe in� on the main wheels. I did change over to the Sullivan Sky Lite 7� and 3.5" tail wheel as per discussion with Steve from Australia, it saved me 3 lbs. and looks a lot more scale. Thanks Steve for your advice.

A few more graphics to add, some final lock down on the wings and we are ready for engine start up. I now have to figure out the you tube down load system.

I’ll be in touch.

Regards
Randy

more pics in next post

cgcrc

more pics

Ozflyboi

Hi Randy,

Wow the 185 is really coming along now and that winch system looks great. The photos show us the story.

Well done!!

Your work has surely paid off and it will not be long now before the maiden fly.

Thanks for the mention in your previous post regarding the wheels recommendation. The Sullivan wheels are really top notch and certainly excellent value for money in my opinion.

If you need some help or advice with you tube uploader just send me an email and I can maybe provide you with some hints, tricks to help you get it working.

I know when I originally attempted to upload videos, I had quite a bit of trouble with the HD video format. In the end I used a video software editing package which not only enabled me to edit the media into a presentable format but also allow me to successfully upload it to the youtube maintaining the HD format.

Looking forward to seeing you get this model (well that is if you consider it to be a model as its certainly not a toy) flying.

Regards,
Steve

cgcrc

Hi Steve;

I think the upload re the youtube will be the most challenging on this build. []
I will send you an e-mail when I get a little closer.

Thanks for all your assistance and e-mails re clarification between the 182 and 185 build.

The final weight of the engine, mufflers and ignition system is 14.1 lbs. As mentioned the C/G is pretty well spot on.

The lifting system worked well, see attached pic.

There is a full scale Fly In/ Splash In mid August, I was hopeful to take the model for display if they can find me a spot inside the hangar.
I would be interested to see what the full scale pilots think of the model.

I'll be in touch.

Regards
Randy

gizmos

Anyone building Tommy kits need to beware of a problem. I have built 3ea of the cessna and 3 ea dc-3. Where the tail bolts together is very weak.
We have one of the ring pull out while moving it on the ground. This sections needs to be reworked. I would suggest cutting the ring and install plywood sleeves and installing 2 layers of 8 0z. glass cloth around the compete ring. We also put carbon tow as extra strengh. We made all three of our electric with hacker 200 and they flew great. I like his kits, but they are a little heavy. The DC-3 fly great with the cheap Maxx product motors. They take off in less than 100 ft and fly over 10 minutes on 10,000ma batteries.

cgcrc

Hio Gizmos;

Thanks for the update re the problem you had with the fuse tail bolts.

Agreed, I had noticed this area on the 185 as a possible problem especially being a tail dragger.
I had reinforced both inside sections of the fore and aft fuse with heavy glass cloth and epoxy. I find that the glue that Tommy uses is a little dry and brittle.

I have also reinforced the inside section of the firewall, main landing gear, tail wheel mount with heavy glass cloth and around the windows with a lighter cloth. Minimal weight but added strength.

Nice to hear you have had good success with the electric conversions.

Stay in touch.

Regards
Randy

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

I completed the last baffle in the engine compartment today. I was sort of putting it off for a while because I knew it was a time consumer trying to get everything just right.

Anyway, all came out very well, just added some light glass cloth and epoxy then paint. see attached pic

First start up will be without the cowling on and no baffles in place.

I'll be in touch.

Regards
Randy

gizmos

Randy,
Just another note, he had a bad set of landing gears that came from his shop, we had one break while taxing. He send replacements. Check your wheels, if they have plastic inserts, you need to have him send you the metal ones. One wheel also broke during testing.
Gizmos
We just completed the mold for floats on another cessna and super cub. I tried to order from Canada, sea commander but he could not get them to me in time. Nine foot floats....

cgcrc

Hi Gizmos;

Thanks for the info., agreed, I also had a split on the surface of the aluminum on one of the bends of the LG.

The track was too wide anyway and had to be re-adjusted so I finally went to TNT LG in the US and got them to bend me a new set.
I have used TNT before with good results.

If you get a chance send me a pic of your floats, 9 feet in length, they will look like canoes under the airplane.[X(]

Stay in touch.

Regards
Randy

cgcrc

Hi Steve D-RCU;

Looks like a few complications came up re getting a spot in one of the maintenance hangars for my 185 at the Float Fly In at Orillia this weekend. Apparently they want to paint the shop floor tomorrow and have all the spots reserved for vendors. I could get a spot outdoors but would have prefered an indoor location.

I'm a little disappointed but will head over on the weekend to take in the full size action.

Regards
Randy

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

Well I didn’t get a chance to show the model at the local Fly In.....[] so, no better time than to do an engine start up...... (see attached pics)

The 3W 212 b4 started quite well and very smooth running. A lot of material (Prop) up front I’m running a two blade 33x12 for now then changing to my 3 blade.

The engine is a lot “lumpier� in sound than the twin and runs up very nicely. I think it is a great “mix� for the 185 comparing it to the full size aircraft.

A few small issues to deal with, my tank set up is a little different than normal. On Tommy’s 182 and using a twin cylinder I believe the tank is mounted in the aluminum motor mount. On the 185 and using the 4 cylinder I had to mount the tank behind the firewall forward of the cockpit. I’m using a fuel fill line, vent line and two separate carb lines which have their independent pick- ups in the tank.

Due to location my tank pick up is a little lower than the engine carburetors, hand propping the engine prior to start was not enough to draw the fuel initially to the carbs. So the carbs needed a little priming. Once the fuel was in the line it started within a few flips.

As shown, the engine was started without a cowling and baffling, so cooling air flow was not as efficient. My modified exhaust held and worked very well,
BUT,
cooling may be an issue due to the various stack lengths.
(As I suspected it may!!!!!)

A question for you fellows who have baffled an engine.

With the cowling and baffles in place, and the forward motion of the aircraft in flight how many degrees cooler could I expect as opposed to an idle engine run up as shown in the pics. (The engine was run basically at idle).

If need be I could always run the four straight stacks as supplied with the muffler but that would divert from the scale appearance. However, I can live with that since I don’t want to overheat the engine.

That’s it for tonight, all in all, I’m very pleased, just have to sleep on the muffler issue.

Let me know your thoughts.

Regards
Randy

ps pics to follow uploading is a little slow tonight

cgcrc

Pics

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

I have been pushing ahead with the engine (familiarity) break in process. It sure does start nicely and sounds great.....

I have had a conversation with the engine distributor re the cylinder temp. difference comparing a baffled vs. non baffled engine. There are a number of factors to look at but approx. 20-30 degrees lower.

Interesting that normally the front left cylinder will run warmer than the others. (Go figure, that’s the cylinder that has the longest extension tube). The temp. difference with my extension is about 20 degrees warmer than the others. Without the extension it’s about 5 degrees.

Basically, (try it and see the results) is one option........

After re-examining the inside of the cowling and airflow below the baffle I may opt to have two shorty stacks for the front two cylinders. Although not traditional for the 185 which disappoints me, it will give me peace of mind for the first few flights with the model. I really don’t want to overheat cylinders resulting in engine damage and have to dead stick the model in.

There are full size 185's who have a cross over flow exhaust system but not commonly seen.

I’ll be in touch.

Regards
Randy

garfred-RCU

Looking good randy. Iv'e been gone for a while. Good to catch up on your buid again. I like the color scheme you have chosen, looks real alright. Haven't touched my cessna all year. Plan on getting back to it next month, or october when the weather gets cooler.
Later !!!
Gary

cgcrc

Hi Gary;

Good to hear from you, yes, the build is coming to completion, the coulour scheme are stick on graphics that can be removed in the fall for a full paint job over the winter.
Keep us posted on your build.

Regards
Randy

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

I made the changes to the front two cylinder stacks and have them exiting the cowling.
The rear two cylinders have remained the same exiting at the firewall.

Not as bad as what I expected. It certainly opened up some room in the cowling for increased airflow.

As previously mentioned there are full size 180’s and 185’s with this system, all be it, not that many where I live.

The company that offers the modified exhaust system is Leading Edge Exhausts www.wemakeyoufly.com from Anchorage Alaska.
For those interested if you go to their web page and scroll to the pics you can see a variety of systems and aircraft which it has been installed on.
(Pics 9,10,11 show a similar system that the model replicates)
Interesting performance increase on the full size aircraft with this system installed.

I have about half time on the engine break in and switched over to the three bladed prop with spinner.

A few issues with some leaking gasoline after engine shut down around the bolts that hold the reed cage assembly to the casing.

Hmmmm…… not much, but, it’s there, I don’t like that.

I have tightened the bolts, no improvement, I then removed the reed cage and carb to check the gaskets and reassembled, no improvement.

Hmmm…… Unless the gaskets are a little dried out and lost their sealing capabilities. I may have to go the rubber gasket sealant way for now until a new set of gaskets arrive.
Once this issue is corrected it’s pretty well ready to test fly.

See attached pics

I’ll be in touch.

Regards
Randy

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

Well, I figured out my leaking problem around the reed cage and carburetor.
(see attached pic of the assembly; the wet area is leaking fuel)

The material that the factory uses is called FRP (a fuel resistant plasticize material).

The problem with the material is when you tighten the cage bolts the force is directed around the bolt hole and torques or bows the flat surface thus comes the leak. You can’t tighten too much because the plastic will weaken or crack around the bolt holes again which equals leaking.......[]

They now have a modified system that uses aluminum for the reed cage and the carburetor bock.........

I just ordered the assembly which will arrive UPS by Wednesday. I’m glad to have found the problem; I obviously can’t have any leaks, especially fuel contained within a baffled cowl around a hot exhaust.

In the mean time I will go over the model again making sure everything is securely fastened.
Once the engine is reassembled I’ll finish the break in.

I’ll be in touch.

Regards
Randy

garfred-RCU

Randy How are the flaps working with those hinges?

cgcrc

Hi Gary;

The hinges took a little time getting things lined up etc. before gluing in place , but so far so good. Minimal "play"in the different positions.
I'll let you know after the first few flights.

Randy