brockettman

Nice work Jordan, looks like she's ready for the sky!

kiwibob, I think the straight struts are going to give you the most scale look.

I got my E-flight retracts and they are very nice! Unfortunately they are not "drop in" like the Robarts as the kit is designed. They have given me some challenges, and I have had to rethink a few things. As Terry pointed out with the fixed gear, so too the mounting blocks for the retracts are not angled enough. I decided to rework the mounting area giving the blocks more of an angle. I have also decided to go with 3 1/4" wheels 7/8" wide as there isn't as much room in the wing as I thought. Probably have to trim W3 to get the tire to fit. The scale strut covers I have are a bit to bulky, so I'm doing a modification only using half of the strut cover. I finally did get the gear roughed in with the gear doors fitting pretty well too. I've decided to add the fixed gear ribs W5F and W6F for reinforcement as I had to take out quite a bit of material to get the retracts in.

Here are some pics...

Build well!

Ben

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

here's what I did to beef up the gear area after the lower sheeting was in place I installed some light ply sheer webbing,I went with the century jet units and had to lower them into the wing per instructions.

if you look closely I also installed blind nuts so I could use allen head cap screws instead of the standard wood screws it helps when pulling the gear in and out and I can get them nice and tight, I also managed to fit the 3 3/4 wheels in there as well

Goran619

My Feedback: (2)

Well I have an update, the maiden flight has not occured yet, nor was I able to taxi it around. I am having a few issues with my tank I filled it up and found fuel inside the fuse....grrrr this is aggrivating. Well tomorrow I will be taking the fuel tank out and trying to figure out whats going on.
Jordan

edbu1

With my P-47 1/8 build, I was able to fit E-Flite 85 degree retracts with 4 inch Robart diamond tread tires by angling the gear back so the tires go into the center of the wing (chord-wise). This required chopping the main spar and placing spars ahead of and behind the main spar from the root out to rib 7. I used spruce for the spars. Had to custom cut plywood dihedral bracing for reinforcement between the spruce upper and lower spars. I also angled the landing gear mounts way forward so that the axles will be under the leading edge of the wing when extended. Alot of work that hopefully will be worth it. I also installed gear door, including working inner doors using Sonic-Tronics offset spring hinges. For the tailwheel, I used the Robart 121 retractable wheel assembly, but mounted it on a custom made plywood fuselage former that fits forward of F9 (I think). This puts the tailwheel in a more scale-like position and gets the whole assembly in a part of the fuselage that's a bit wider. This makes it a bit easier to install the working tailwheel doors, which were a real pain to get working properly. I went through 3 designs over a two month period. Wish I had taken photos during the build to show the details, but these are all ideas taken from other threads on this web site forum, so the information with photos can be found. I'm almost ready for fiberglass and paint.

Goran619

My Feedback: (2)

Terry I weighed  my Jug last night and she is weighing in at 10.8 lbs right now, I believe when I get it completly finished with all the finishing stuff it will be around 11.5lbs. Well last weekend I did get the 2 exhaust ports on the lower front of the fuse installed and painted and the cockpit in. I need a pilot now, need to do the dome underneath in front of the tail wheel, the guns on the wings, the retract doors need to be fixed to my fixed landing gear to give the look and then to do panel lines..... Still so much to do. I have not flown it yet I believe I got all the kinks worked out of it, I will be maidening her in the next week or 2 I will keep you guys informed on when I fly her.
Jordan

Terry Bolin

My Feedback: (7)

Jordon, it's nice to be soo close, Please keep us posted and post pics too..
Thanks, t

oldtyme

Hi all,

I'm not building the 60 size of this bird but the GS but I have just received the ARF of this size and thought I'd pass on some info. I've decided to stay with the mechanical retracts although I'm replacing them with the Robart mechanicals and I discovered a nice set of struts from a place called rcsklite and they fit the mechanical wires and are much better looking than most and only cost $52 + $13 shipping. I converted the H9 ARF to Robarts(air) but think that I will stick with the mechanicals............much simpler and look just as good with the struts. Anyway............thought I'd pass that on. If you want to see them.....look inl the Warbirds section under a thread of Top Flite 60 size ARF build and modifications. A lot less expensive and just as good as expensive air or electric mods.
Cheers,
Andy

adreliable661

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks for all the insight. From a kit building standpoint i have only built a GP Stik (tail dragger) and a TF Contender. I have a TF AT-6 ARF that I am about to get enough nerve and, hopefully, experience to get in the air. I have jumped into the TF P-47 kit and am enjoying immensely. All your pics and comments have helped to clarify some ot the instructions.
I am thinking of putting a Saito 1.25 in it (I have the Saito 1.00 in my Texan and a Saito .91 in my Katdet Sr. tail dragger and thus am getting acquainted with there operation). Would appreciate any comments or suggestions.

Thanks again. Love this thread!

Grumpy Gorilla

Terry Bolin

My Feedback: (7)

CAUTION ! For those of you who are going to use the fixed gear provided with the kit. Make sure the axle for the tire is forward enough as drawn on the plans. My metal wire was bent to where the wheel was straight down from the torque block makeing the wheel axle 1,1/2" to far back for proper tire location. I bent the wire to re=set it forward..By leaving it back as bent, you will cause a nose over problem when taxiing or landing also can cause earily lift off on take off causing a stall..... get a good look at your plans for proper angles... very important for good ground handleing.....good luck!

brockettman

Hey Guys...

I managed to get the sheeting on the bottom of the wing, and have been working through final mounting and alignment of the retracts. I will use blind nuts and cap screws for attachment also, I have been able to get 3 1/2" tires to fit fine. I'm hoping I've got enough forward angle of the gear for proper ground handling. Thanks again Terry for the insight on the landing gear angle.

Thanks to all for the input on the different ways to go about retract installation, very helpful...

Hey Grumpy, Enjoy the P-47 build! I'll bet the AT-6 will give you some great flying experience, and I'm guessing that the Saito 1.25 will be a great engine for the plane.

Build well!

Goran619

My Feedback: (2)

Well update on my jugs maiden flight, still hasn't happened. I brought it out to the field this afternoon, fueled it up did my preflight and went to fire it up..... Nothing happened turned it over about 5 more times and nothing. The guys I fly with were wanting to see it in the air so they convinced me to pull the cowl off and try and figure it out. So I did, found what we thought the fuel lines to be mixed up. Swapped the fuel lines on the carb and got it running but would stay running kept getting air bubbles in the fuel lines.

I said screw it and gave up on it for the night and went and flew my mustang. Almost had a mishap with that plane as well, brought the plane around for the final approach and as I turned left I lost orientation on her. flew it right along the tree line, I even think the right wing tip brushed the leaves...afterwards I had to go home and change my pants.....lol

Well I got home and dug into the jug and pulled out the fuel tank, I really don't know what was wrong. The only thing I can think of was when I had the fuel tank out last time I pulled a little to hard on the carb line as I was feeding the lines through the firewall. I ordered a few things for the fuel tank and lines to hopefully eliminate any problems, should be here before the weekend. Bad thing that happened though is that for some reason when fueling the tank over filled in the fuse and I got gas all in it. I cleaned it out as best as I could and now its drying out. Question though how tight do you tighten the fuel tank plug? I thought you tighten it until the plug just starts to push past the outter plate. Any help with this will be appreciated.

This was the 3rd time I've tried to maiden her and I have issues with the fuel system all 3 times, different problem each time. I'm starting to think this plane just doesn't want to be flown

Jordan

brockettman

Hey Jordan... Doesn't get any more frustrating than that[:@] Glad to hear everything came home in one piece! Maybe a dumb question, but did you convert your tank stopper and fuel lines to gasoline compatible? I tried to run a gasser with the nitro stuff and it was a big mess... Other than that I usually tighten the stopper until the rubber starts to bulge between the metal plate and the tank, not too tight though.

I am getting the landing gear wrapped up and the gear doors fit onto the struts. Still have a little tweeking to do, but I'm almost ready to sheet the top of the wing...[8D]

Build well!

Ben

Goran619

My Feedback: (2)

Yea Ben I did make sure to convert the stopper to the gas one and have tygon gas line in there as well, So I should be good on that end.
Jordan

twn

I usually tightened just about to the point of stripping, lol [X(]

I have started using water bottles n seal-all. I put the lines through as normal through the bottle cap with the rubber stopper and then once it is all workin the way I want I seal-all the bottle cap to the bottle (tighten of course too...) I also use the aluminum sulivan high pressure stopper setup... Lots of us are going this method now because the normal tanks leak n fail. Happened to me too...

A 500ml fiji water bottle gives my dle55 about 16-20 min of run time wide open. More than enough for a flight. I like the 500ml fiji bottle because it is rectangular in shape.

Plus with water bottles they are clear so u can see the fuel very easily.

With the aluminum stopper setup u gotta cut the outer lip off n grind it flat so it will sandwich n seal the stopper to the cap.

adreliable661

My Feedback: (12)

Which retracts are you using here?

twn

I should add I ALWAYS use 5/32 or 3/16 tubing for the fuel lead along with medium to large tygon and the fuel clunk I use the sulivans because they have a large opening and can be drilled out even bigger. I have had problems with 1/8" id lines. Also I never use a t-fitting to split the tank to carb line for filling the tank. I use a 3rd line and put a 90 degree upward bend inside the tank with some tygon cut on an angle at the end. Works great and to get all of the fuel out I just flip the plane over and if the filling cap comes off in flight it wont syphon out. Splitting with a T-fitting can introduce air leaks.... For the filling caps/plug I only use the aluminum bison jobs. medium size for medium tygon and large for large tygon.

Some guys will argue the the larger line isn't needed because the inlet on the carb is small. I think a bigger supply is always better. I have had dead sticks with the smaller line and much better luck with the larger line. I also barb all tubes. To get the tygon over the larger tubing n barbs I just use a little vasoline. Also helps to throw a little heat from a covering gun on the tubing prior to installing.


I like the sulivan crap traps for filtering, I only use the large one. I also filter with 2 filters on my filling jerry can before it even get to the tank...

raptureboy

The problem with using the large line is Tygon swells over time and gets loose. Use the 1/8" and you will be fine, zip tie or wire every connection. For some of the best gas advice go to the Gas forum and read the sticky "gas engines for newbies" There are a whole lot of differences in set up and running a gas engine and almost nothing you learned with glow applies. The DLE engines are extremly sensitive to needle adjustment so go very easy, 1/16 of a turn means alot. I know I have 2 of them.

brockettman

I'm using E-flight 85 degree retracts and wires (struts) with Robart scale strut covers and Top Flite P-51 60 ARF axles with H-9 3.5 inch tires... a hodge-podge of items I have lying around in the shop that are working well together! On a side note, I think the Robo style struts would work well and look real good on this plane.

Build well!

Ben

pitts M 12

Does this airplane have a removable wing as I couldn't put it fully assembled in the vehicle.

JM

Goran619

My Feedback: (2)

The wing is a 1 piece wing and is removable from the fuse.
Jordan

pitts M 12

thanks just a couple of nylon bolts I assume.

JM

Goran619

My Feedback: (2)

Yea the front is held in by 2 dowels the go in to the fuse and the back has 2 nylon bolts
Jordan

pitts M 12

thanks well that seals the deal.

JM

brockettman

It's been awhile... I've finally got the top of the wing sheeted, the glue is drying as I type...[8D]

Here are a few pics:

Build well!

Ben

brockettman

The wing looks pretty good! The jig was solid and kept everything straight and true. Starting the flaps now...

A few pics...

Build well,

Ben

OOPS! A stray got in there[X(]