Stickbuilder

Dan, I think that if you add the cap stripping you will be on the money. It looks great. Any chance of getting a little more back sweep to the sheeting at the tip?

Bill, Waco Brother #1

rccrasher65

My Feedback: (35)

Dan those wing tips look great, Ihope mine will look as good as yours. George

Errol Levin

Hi Chris

Peter pretty much answered your question. I did not have a problem at all. It all went together without any cutting.

Regards to all.

ERROL #204

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Bill,

Is this what you were talking about on the sheeting? Also what size cap strips should I use?

George, just take your time and ask plenty questions and you’ll be fine. With out all the help on this thread I’d be lost.

skylarkmk1

Dan,

That is looking better for the leading edge sheeting and what I believe Bill was talking about, it helps blend the leading edge and tip together (look at the fullsize photos).

Capstrips - I would use 1/8", the full size are narrow about 1/2" wide. Probably no wider that 3/16" at the most. wider than that and you star losing the scale look.

The tip bows look much better in thickness.

Jim Henley

Dan, your hard work is paying off. Those wing tips and leading edge look great!!

rccrasher65

My Feedback: (35)

Thanks Dan, I really appreciate all the help, I'm going to start my wings soon. George

skylarkmk1

Jim H,

I am answering your PM in open forum as I think others would be interested. Your question - "does the WACO use any paint on the back side of the inspection panels? Or on the interior surface?" has an "It depends..." answer. It depends on when the aircraft was built (original or modern), who built it (Waco, Waco Classic or homebuilt), when it was restored and by whom. Was the aircraft restored to original specs (YMF NC 14031 and UPF NC 32032) or restored for personal enjoyment (YKS NC 17457)?

The basic steel tube frame is painted. I have seen Dark Green, Black, White, Silver and Pale Grey, mostly Black or White. White, Pale Grey or Silver is used most often in the cockpits that are not covered with fabric. The exposed tubing on fabric covered cockpits is often painted to match the fabric colors. Sometimes the main horizontal tubing is black with the verticals and diagonals pale grey or silver.

Inside of the luggage hatch - Often left natural aluminum or painted the same as the exterior.

Inside of the forward engine hatches - Natural or painted to match the exterior.

Engine area framework (steel tube) - usually painted Black or Silver or to match exterior. I have seen Black used forward of the instrument panel (the back side of the IP is usually left natural from what I have seen).

Main Landing gear – The struts inside the fairing are usually painted silver.

Zinc Chromate – Was used on the Military UPFs (PT-14s). I have not seen it used on the civilian Wacos except on a few individual parts.

As in anything, there are always deviations from the above depending on the 5 W’s (Who, What, When, Where and Why)

If possible get photos of the particular aircraft you are replicating, actual paint chips or paint numbers/specs before hand. That way you will not be trying to modify a generic plane into some thing it is not.

Stickbuilder

Dan. I'd use 1/8" wide and 1/16" high. Blend them into the leading edge just behind the leading edge dowel. That way your covering can look like the rib goes all the way to the leading edge. Don't stick it to the sheeting, but do stick it to the cap strips. Like you did with your monokote job.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

Jim Henley

Thank you John, that was the answer I was looking for.

rkliemann

Hi all

I have received a 1/3 Barth Waco and have spent sometime on the different forums reading up. I have started going through the kit seperating parts, inventorying. Pretty difficult because the parts list is in German, so I'm going by numbers. I have also noticed that I may be missing a drawing too. I do not have a drawing of the fuselage to build on. Do you know if there is one or is the build that straight forward? I do have a side and front view on one drawing with some insert detail, both wings and tail /stabilizer, 4 drawings in all. I purchased the kit through vogelsangaeroscale.com, I will call them to see if there is something missing. I will probably not start much before October because we will be on a vacation.

thanks for any and all help
Rich

Errol Levin

Hi Rich

The best person to talk to is Peter Barth himself. He regularly contributes to this site under the name FMBB.

He made a post on the 20th of August. Post number 13638. Go back to the post and drop him a private message.

However I am sure he will see your post and reply.

Good luck with your build. They are great kits. I am building a 1:4 scale Barth kit.

Regards to all.

ERROL #204

FMBB

Hi Rich,

sorry for not yet providing the English version of the building instructions I am still working on the translation. But 4 sheets of plan are correct. We have no top view of the fuse as the installation of the light ply parts which are forming the fuselage are very selfe explaining and there is now chance to install them in a false way. Once having assembled the main parts the side view of the fuse is enough for installing the residual parts. There are also some pictures in the manual where you may have a look at to see how the parts will be assembled. I hope to have finalized the English version of the instructions soon.

Best regards
Peter

FMBB

P.S.

Rich,

if there are still some open issues please do not hesitate to contact me via this forum or by PM ([email protected]).

Peter

#170

rkliemann

Peter, Errol

thank you for your quick response. the fuse does seem pretty straight forward. I am excited to build this kit, I have done the sig astrohog and hog bipe kits and both were quite fun builds, they have many flights on them. They did take awhile to do but the satisfaction of seeing them lift off the ground the 1st time was awesome. I can only imagine what it will be like to take this plane off for the 1st time.

thank you
best regards

Rich

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Bill,

I pick up a piece of 1/16 balsa from the HS I will cut 1/8 strips and glue them down and cover. The only concern I have is ironing down the reinforcing tape with out sticking it to the sheeting.

John,

By chance would you have a picture of the wing with the cap strips on? Be kind of nice to see how it looks.

skylarkmk1

Dan,

There weren't any capstrips used on the wings I was been able to photograph. The top and bottom rib strips are all that was used. In the attached photo, look close at ribs W-7 (in the middle) and W-8 (in the front), both had a second strip added and faired in to bring the rib up to the final contour. This was only on the starboard wing, the other wing did not have any material added (the wings were reportedly from different aircraft and built by different craftsmen). Also note that all the other ribs had a spacer under the top of the rib on the center square spar stick (for lack of a better term). This was pretty common, splicing in material, adding spacers, to get the proper contours or shapes. I have seen it used on both the wing and fuselages.

mogman

I've just received my graphics and lettering for the 40%'r. These were obtained from CFC Graphics in Jupiter Fl.
Charles,(avaiojet here on RCU and this Waco thread) was very pleasant and helpful to deal with. Price was very reasonable.

As mine is not a "scale" model of any particular Waco, I took some liberties with the reg. letters. I found that the prefix letters for Western Samoa in the 1930"s was 5W. So the logical (to me) conclusion was to go with 5W-ACO[8D]

This basically finishes off the model.....for now
I now have 13 flights on the beast and on Wed, I am going to a 5 day fly-in followed by a 7 day float fly
....then Monster Planes


Cheers,
Dave.
W/B #180

old git

Hi Bill and Brothers.

It's been so long since I posted anything that RCU seems top have forgotten me.

I'm not seeming very able to build at the moment, trembling and unsteadyness is a problem.

I went to Abergevenny, South Wales and stayed with about 50 other seniors in a Youth Hostel'

The purpose was a science seminar, Doctorates and Professorships galore.

Five days with a morning, afternoon and evening presentation plus questions and discussions at every opportunity.

One chap has described how a Jumbo takes off last year and how lands this year using a number of simple wooden models and a hair dries to simulate a wind tunnel.

The evening sessions are usually less heavy (tired and alcohol fueled). Remembering what I did for my Post Grad Cert Ed I decided to use some chuck (gently) gliders.

Light thin balsa seems unavailable, I built half a dozen RUBBISH models (plasticene nose weights for safety) to fly in the lecture room.

I could see that the models were rather thin in number for the objective. I bought a number of styrene silhouette models, paper folding models ready coloured and a couple of chinese helicopters. There was even a three bladed job which ducted air from a baloon to the rotor tips.

Everyone was invited to balance chuckies or fold a paper plane and get on with it. I had also brought a nice little commercial pusher biplane that flew satisfactorily.

The highlite was definately a miniature helicopter. The other was a crude failure. I paid about $20.00 for a twin concentric rotor model with flybar and vertical axis tail rotor.

The control was said to be radio but proved to be UV. but was very successful nevetheless.

People who had been talking about "the exclusion principle, Schrodingers Cat, and other exotic subjects found that simple model were great fun. The helicopter could hardly fly for the crush of cameras.

As a consequence of the many and varied drugs I am on I am going for a mamogram in the morning. Having a breast attached to one is nowhere near as much fun as I imagined.

There you are folks, fun for all.

Old Git - Waco Brotherhood No. 14.

Stickbuilder

John,

Always great to hear from you. Sorry that you are unable to build at the moment. Let's all hope this passes and that you will be able to build once more.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Hello all,

Here’s a look at the hopefully finished wing tip. I added the 1/8x1/16 cap strips. The wing takes on a hole new look when you don’t see any sheeting threw the covering really looks good takes a little extra time but well worth it. Thanks for that tip Bill. The covering jobs not the best I hate using monokote. I’m still uncertain what covering I will use something light any thoughts will be appreciated.
Please take all precautions you can if your in the path of hurricane Irene looks like she could be a bad one.

pimmnz

Nice Dan, but just a thought, does not the leading edge cladding on the Waco go OVER the rib leading edges? The covering and the rib tape still goes over the cladding, but you should not be able to see the rib under the covering? I use capping strips on my Waco only to match the rib profile to the leading and trailing edge sheeting.
Evan, WB #12.

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Evan,

I’m not sure I understand exactly what you mean perhaps Bill will help out with an answer. If you have some pictures of how you did yours I would vary much like to see them.

skylarkmk1

Dan,

Rip off the money kote, sand those cap strips back down smooth with the leading edge sheeting. The only thing that is on top of the sheeting is the fabric covering and the rib tapes that extends over the sheeting. The leading edge is smooooth. No rib bumps there.

P1 - YKS NC 17457 completed aircraft, note the smooth leading edge, no ripples in the paint.
P2 - The wing during restoration; note how the Bondo at the ribs has been sanded back to smooth things out.
P3 - The fabric and tapes applied to the wing. Again note the tapes are smoothed to the fabric.

Did I mention that the leading edge is smooth.

pimmnz

Yeah Dan, wot skylarkmk1 said...
Evan.