A Bit Bigger Reef Racer
09-08-2011, 09:03 PM
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A Bit Bigger Reef Racer
| I recently acquired a preowned Reef Racer and upon looking at its hull - it reminded me of a similar hull that we have a fiberglass mold of. With all of the topics covering this specific boat and all the brushless conversion threads, I thought I'd undertake a simple project by making it just a bit bigger. We pulled a fiberglass copy of just the lower hull of the boat mold we have and I have built-up the rest with cardboard. Once its finished, we could probably mold it in fiberglass. The stock reef racer is 15" in length while this project will be 24" or 1.6 times bigger. My plan is to power it with a 36 size BL motor in the range of 1800-2200kv, but would like to ask a question if I may.......... .........just like the stock reef racer, our lower hull also has a keel thus the solid and straight prop drive system is angled downwards and next to it would be the standard submerged rudder. Or would it be better to use a flex shaft with a stuffing tube that bends once it exits the keel to be as straight & level with the hull? Any pros & cons on both designs? If the latter would be preferred, I went to the safe side by deviating from copying the stock reef racer's angled transom and made the 24" version with a flat transom to accommodate a surfaced drive system for a strut and offset rudder. I would appreciate any comments or suggestions  <fieldset class="fieldset" style="margin-bottom: 6px; font-size: 11px; "></fieldset> |
09-09-2011, 01:53 PM
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RE: A Bit Bigger Reef Racer
The reef racer as you know has a submerged propor sub-surface set up which basically has more bite on water. Unfortunately it is limited to that prop set-up but it ensures the boatdoes notever blow overdue to the negative prop shaft angle.If you are happy with the stock performance and its agilitythen do not bother changing it on your 24” boat.
On the other hand, if you want to use a flex shaft on the same submerged set-up but want the ability have a neutral trim setting(prop shop parallel to the hull) or positive trim setting (pointing up) by simply bending the stuffing tube then go for it but leave the rudder centered.
On the other hand, if you want to use a flex shaft on the same submerged set-up but want the ability have a neutral trim setting(prop shop parallel to the hull) or positive trim setting (pointing up) by simply bending the stuffing tube then go for it but leave the rudder centered.
The only advantage of having a flex shaft is adjustability.A neutral trim (position) will give your more forward thrust and will make your boat plane faster.A positive trim will obviously give you a higher plane and maybe a noticeable speed.
The disadvantage is that the boat is more succeptible to blow over so trim it just right.
Don’t bother with a right rudder set-up if you are planning to keep the prop subsurface.However, if you truly want a surface drive set-up then eliminate the keel and put your stuffing tube right through the transom but off center to the right (looking at the transom from behind) by 1/8” to counter prop walk (boat veers right) mainly caused by over sized dull propand power plant.
Subsurface set-up with stock motor = say 25 mph (prop loads the motor in full)
Surface set-up with stock motor = 28 mph (prop is more loose on water = less load on motor = more rpm).
If you choose to go surface drive then set-up the boat with a right rudder or you can also place the stuffing tube dead center as well as the rudder but make the rudder stand-off longer and have a deeper or wider rudder to counter prop walk.You can also use trim tabs to counter prop walk as well.
Jun
09-09-2011, 06:17 PM
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RE: A Bit Bigger Reef Racer
Thanks for the suggestion, Jun - will definitely study the options.
I have also attached pics showing both transoms and the bondo shaping of the canopy/body.
I have also attached pics showing both transoms and the bondo shaping of the canopy/body.
09-15-2011, 07:28 PM
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RE: A Bit Bigger Reef Racer
Just updating this thread...............
We molded the cardboard mock-up, pulled a fiberglass copy from the molds and did a water leak test on our small fish pond. Painting is next then installation of hardware
Pics below......
We molded the cardboard mock-up, pulled a fiberglass copy from the molds and did a water leak test on our small fish pond. Painting is next then installation of hardware
Pics below......
09-16-2011, 12:42 AM
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RE: A Bit Bigger Reef Racer
Make sure you find the entire boat's CG first and mark it inside the hull. Then put everything ON making sure you are on spot with the CG. After all that, move your battery park 1/4" BACK at each run untill you get the best performance on planing and handling.
