COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
#1154
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Yvonand, SWITZERLAND
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Hello Everyone
I also have a home F4U composit arf, I'm in the finishing of the aircraft.
so I am looking for info on the location of the decals on the aircraft.
I already find those "tailor" but it shows that for a few and there are many more.
thank you for your help
chris
I also have a home F4U composit arf, I'm in the finishing of the aircraft.
so I am looking for info on the location of the decals on the aircraft.
I already find those "tailor" but it shows that for a few and there are many more.
thank you for your help
chris
#1156
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
RE: COMP ARF 110
Chris,
I used Major decal (water transfer) for the stars-n-bars:
http://www.majordecals.com/
and Taylor made for the nomenclature:
The Taylor made comes with a location diagram.
http://tailormadedecals.com/xtc2/ind...da528c5cd0b938
I used Major decal (water transfer) for the stars-n-bars:
http://www.majordecals.com/
and Taylor made for the nomenclature:
The Taylor made comes with a location diagram.
http://tailormadedecals.com/xtc2/ind...da528c5cd0b938
#1158
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Location: Yvonand, SWITZERLAND
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RE: COMP ARF 110
hello samparfit
I already buy my decals at Tailor, I also plan to Tailor for the location of the decals, but it shows that for some decals.
so I am looking for something more complete and precise position of its decals
Chris
I already buy my decals at Tailor, I also plan to Tailor for the location of the decals, but it shows that for some decals.
so I am looking for something more complete and precise position of its decals
Chris
#1159
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
RE: COMP ARF 110
Chris,
I get most of my documentations from Squadron Signals walkaround books and other paper back manuals. They usually have a lot of close up pictures that reveal nomenclature.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBHRN&P=ML
I get most of my documentations from Squadron Signals walkaround books and other paper back manuals. They usually have a lot of close up pictures that reveal nomenclature.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBHRN&P=ML
#1162
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: buckeye, AZ
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Well, My 3 postal scales came in today. I used the postal scales, I got 3 off Ebay, total price 100 bucks, they will handle 55 lbs each. I did the math for weight and balance.
The Sling machine, I built last week, confirmed that it works excellent.
Anyway, after all the math, it matched the 10 dollar sling machine, within 4 oz.
I still need to add 5.5 lbs of lead. but at least I feel better about it.
Time to get off the Pot and schedule the Maiden for next week!
Think i will donate the postal scales to the flying club. They can use them for something.
Vern
The Sling machine, I built last week, confirmed that it works excellent.
Anyway, after all the math, it matched the 10 dollar sling machine, within 4 oz.
I still need to add 5.5 lbs of lead. but at least I feel better about it.
Time to get off the Pot and schedule the Maiden for next week!
Think i will donate the postal scales to the flying club. They can use them for something.
Vern
#1163
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
RE: COMP ARF 110
PM.
As with my other warbirds, I'm re-enforcing the 4X40 control rods by JB welding rectangular brass tubing over the rods.
The inside flaps are completed.
The servo arm was also aligned with the control rod to reduce servo stress.
Outside flaps and ailerons still need to be done.
Depending on the weather and other commitments, I'm hoping to get her in the air in the next 3-4 weeks.
As with my other warbirds, I'm re-enforcing the 4X40 control rods by JB welding rectangular brass tubing over the rods.
The inside flaps are completed.
The servo arm was also aligned with the control rod to reduce servo stress.
Outside flaps and ailerons still need to be done.
Depending on the weather and other commitments, I'm hoping to get her in the air in the next 3-4 weeks.
#1164
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Sam,
I built my plug-in version using many tips you and Paul shared with everyone here. Thanks. I set my CG as specified on the manual (1/2 inches in frot of the front edge of the spar, when looking at the top of the wing), and it was good. One reminder, have you considered sending your retract back to Darrel for some modifications? I did it for the peace of mind.
Onewing
I built my plug-in version using many tips you and Paul shared with everyone here. Thanks. I set my CG as specified on the manual (1/2 inches in frot of the front edge of the spar, when looking at the top of the wing), and it was good. One reminder, have you considered sending your retract back to Darrel for some modifications? I did it for the peace of mind.
Onewing
#1165
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
RE: COMP ARF 110
Onewing,
Always glad that my threads help others.
Today, I talked to Darrell and he said to send the scissors section in for the weld.
As long as I don't 'prang' the plane on landing, the gear will hold, 'as is'.
Bouncing a 50 lb plane on the ground that's doing 30 MPH: something's going to break: I prefer a weak spot in the gear versus ripping out the gear mounts, or worse! (gear parts are easier to replace than a hole in the wing!).
My gear, with full air, does not retract when pressure is applied to the front of the wheel, so I have to assume the same for a normal landing.
Large planes fly more realistic and are easier to fly but they also have to be flown like a full size airplane: anything other than a smooth landing on a full size plane is, most likely, going to result in gear damage.
Pranging a non-rotating gear will probably be a little more forgiving but, the complexity of a rotating gear makes them more vulnerable to damage.
======================
PM (cont)
Today, I finished the outer wings flap and aileron control horn re-enforcements.
All flaps were checked and adjusted for equal deflection.
I had hs-5645 servos on the ailerons and switched them to HS-7955's to insure no flutter occurs.
Always glad that my threads help others.
Today, I talked to Darrell and he said to send the scissors section in for the weld.
As long as I don't 'prang' the plane on landing, the gear will hold, 'as is'.
Bouncing a 50 lb plane on the ground that's doing 30 MPH: something's going to break: I prefer a weak spot in the gear versus ripping out the gear mounts, or worse! (gear parts are easier to replace than a hole in the wing!).
My gear, with full air, does not retract when pressure is applied to the front of the wheel, so I have to assume the same for a normal landing.
Large planes fly more realistic and are easier to fly but they also have to be flown like a full size airplane: anything other than a smooth landing on a full size plane is, most likely, going to result in gear damage.
Pranging a non-rotating gear will probably be a little more forgiving but, the complexity of a rotating gear makes them more vulnerable to damage.
======================
PM (cont)
Today, I finished the outer wings flap and aileron control horn re-enforcements.
All flaps were checked and adjusted for equal deflection.
I had hs-5645 servos on the ailerons and switched them to HS-7955's to insure no flutter occurs.
#1168
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hong Kong, CHINA
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RE: COMP ARF 110
ORIGINAL: samparfitt
Jamf4u,
Nice paint job.
Where'd you get the stars-n-bars with the red outline as I haven't seen those type for sale for large planes?
Jamf4u,
Nice paint job.
Where'd you get the stars-n-bars with the red outline as I haven't seen those type for sale for large planes?
Ralf at Tailomade does a great job if you need the masks.
#1169
My Feedback: (221)
RE: COMP ARF 110
ORIGINAL: JamF4U
Wow looks awesome. Mine should be in the air early next year, quick teaser below.
Wow looks awesome. Mine should be in the air early next year, quick teaser below.
ORIGINAL: luckyb001
Here are a few more shots. Love this plane.
Here are a few more shots. Love this plane.
#1170
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
RE: COMP ARF 110
What an IDIOT!
I broke my oil fluid bag for the hydraulic system.
There was a 4" air bubble going to the pump so I used the kit supplied syringe to put more oil into the fluid bag and it worked great.
Only, when I tested it the second time, there was a small air bubble in the fluid bag and got back into the line leading to the pump.
I thought that if I squeezed the bag, it would force the fluid into the pump: WRONG!: the edge seal between the two pieces that make up the bag, broke.
I emailed MTH in Austria, who provides the bags.
I ordered one back in 2010, wish that I would have bought two!
I broke my oil fluid bag for the hydraulic system.
There was a 4" air bubble going to the pump so I used the kit supplied syringe to put more oil into the fluid bag and it worked great.
Only, when I tested it the second time, there was a small air bubble in the fluid bag and got back into the line leading to the pump.
I thought that if I squeezed the bag, it would force the fluid into the pump: WRONG!: the edge seal between the two pieces that make up the bag, broke.
I emailed MTH in Austria, who provides the bags.
I ordered one back in 2010, wish that I would have bought two!
#1171
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: buckeye, AZ
Posts: 131
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RE: COMP ARF 110
ORIGINAL: samparfitt
What an IDIOT!
I broke my oil fluid bag for the hydraulic system.
There was a 4'' air bubble going to the pump so I used the kit supplied syringe to put more oil into the fluid bag and it worked great.
Only, when I tested it the second time, there was a small air bubble in the fluid bag and got back into the line leading to the pump.
I thought that if I squeezed the bag, it would force the fluid into the pump: WRONG!: the edge seal between the two pieces that make up the bag, broke.
I emailed MTH in Austria, who provides the bags.
I ordered one back in 2010, wish that I would have bought two!
What an IDIOT!
I broke my oil fluid bag for the hydraulic system.
There was a 4'' air bubble going to the pump so I used the kit supplied syringe to put more oil into the fluid bag and it worked great.
Only, when I tested it the second time, there was a small air bubble in the fluid bag and got back into the line leading to the pump.
I thought that if I squeezed the bag, it would force the fluid into the pump: WRONG!: the edge seal between the two pieces that make up the bag, broke.
I emailed MTH in Austria, who provides the bags.
I ordered one back in 2010, wish that I would have bought two!
I had a pin hole in my bag and tried to get a new bag from comp arf with no luck. My solution was to find an IV medical bag. Fat chance of that, as we tried several medical stores and they would not sell us one! So, Me and my buddy, went to a local fire dept. and explained the situation. They gave us a Saline bag! We dumped the saline out and flushed it with oil and it has been working great!
Vern
#1172
My Feedback: (221)
RE: COMP ARF 110
ORIGINAL: samparfitt
What an IDIOT!
I broke my oil fluid bag for the hydraulic system.
There was a 4'' air bubble going to the pump so I used the kit supplied syringe to put more oil into the fluid bag and it worked great.
Only, when I tested it the second time, there was a small air bubble in the fluid bag and got back into the line leading to the pump.
I thought that if I squeezed the bag, it would force the fluid into the pump: WRONG!: the edge seal between the two pieces that make up the bag, broke.
I emailed MTH in Austria, who provides the bags.
I ordered one back in 2010, wish that I would have bought two!
What an IDIOT!
I broke my oil fluid bag for the hydraulic system.
There was a 4'' air bubble going to the pump so I used the kit supplied syringe to put more oil into the fluid bag and it worked great.
Only, when I tested it the second time, there was a small air bubble in the fluid bag and got back into the line leading to the pump.
I thought that if I squeezed the bag, it would force the fluid into the pump: WRONG!: the edge seal between the two pieces that make up the bag, broke.
I emailed MTH in Austria, who provides the bags.
I ordered one back in 2010, wish that I would have bought two!
#1173
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
RE: COMP ARF 110
Gary,
thanks for the tip for getting the fluid bag from US dealers (they didn't stock them last year: must be a 'need' for them!).
===========
All FIXED!
I used my old fluid bag.
Initially, the bag had some grey matter in it but I must have cleaned it out after I got the replacement back in 2010.
Anyway, I installed it and filled it with baby oil.
There are now two extra tubes going to the fluid bag.
The input tube (top yellow tube in picture) is for putting baby oil into the fluid bag.
The second one (bottom yellow tube in picture) was added, with a T fitting, just before going into the pump: this allows me to remove air from the tube that goes from the fluid bag to the pump. I was having trouble removing the air in this area, hence, the broken fluid bag!
Now I connect an extension tube to the bottom tube and leave it open so fluid/air can go into a jar. As I fill up the fluid bag, the air goes out the second tube as the fluid bag fills up. There was about a 3/4" bubble left but I rotated the fluid bag so the air bubble was at the end of the tube going to the pump and I was able to remove the last remaining air from the system. This works out well as, before, I always had a small bubble left in the bag, which, could move and get into the pump line and render the system, inoperative. After the bag is free of air, I remove the extension tube and cap off the short tube connected to the T.
I still have to put the wings on to give the system the 'real' test.
2nd picture:
When the bag broke, baby oil got on the left side of the wing: I used 409 to remove it but all it did, was make a nice, even shinny surface on the wing. Hopefully, dust will get it dull, again!
thanks for the tip for getting the fluid bag from US dealers (they didn't stock them last year: must be a 'need' for them!).
===========
All FIXED!
I used my old fluid bag.
Initially, the bag had some grey matter in it but I must have cleaned it out after I got the replacement back in 2010.
Anyway, I installed it and filled it with baby oil.
There are now two extra tubes going to the fluid bag.
The input tube (top yellow tube in picture) is for putting baby oil into the fluid bag.
The second one (bottom yellow tube in picture) was added, with a T fitting, just before going into the pump: this allows me to remove air from the tube that goes from the fluid bag to the pump. I was having trouble removing the air in this area, hence, the broken fluid bag!
Now I connect an extension tube to the bottom tube and leave it open so fluid/air can go into a jar. As I fill up the fluid bag, the air goes out the second tube as the fluid bag fills up. There was about a 3/4" bubble left but I rotated the fluid bag so the air bubble was at the end of the tube going to the pump and I was able to remove the last remaining air from the system. This works out well as, before, I always had a small bubble left in the bag, which, could move and get into the pump line and render the system, inoperative. After the bag is free of air, I remove the extension tube and cap off the short tube connected to the T.
I still have to put the wings on to give the system the 'real' test.
2nd picture:
When the bag broke, baby oil got on the left side of the wing: I used 409 to remove it but all it did, was make a nice, even shinny surface on the wing. Hopefully, dust will get it dull, again!