MTK

Correctamundo....was it solid gas, liquid gas or gas gas??

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Probably methane gas.

Ernie Misner

Tim, the adding a little methanol to gasoline was a waaay back go kart racing thing. I think brought on at the time simply because on the Blendzall castor oil can it said that it contained a homogenizing agent that would allow some methanol to be added to the gas. It probably was not legal but some had to try it anyway. They probably didn't win a race, like you said.

Ernie

TimBle

Castor oil in the kart engines was a total mess. it gummed up so fast you would lose power over a race meeting. Probably why some blokes (and gals) had a couple of engines on hand. I guess if an engine is being rebuilt that often then castor is no problem. Never ran castor in my Rotax or my Honda. Also never ran methanol.
Although in Karting the guys used the methanol so they could ran a cooler fuel mix. The lower latent heat of vaporisation of the methanol allowed for lower temp intake fuel charge so they could cram more gasoline in which gave the extra power. But they had to carry more fuel which was extra weight so not sure it balanced for them because they stayed right where they were in the field. No one scooted off into the distance because they ran methanol.

RiverLarry

a1pcfixer !!! Drum Roll !!!! I bit/ click/ drum roll(( you crack me up)) !!!! time to find a JOB R/L

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

I have run in a number of new large bore chainsaws Stihl and Husky. 40 to 1 for initial running for about the first gallon as they will heat up and they do not put out good power at first. After that stay with 50 to 1 as they run clean and don't carbon up.
I have put as much as 5 gallons a day thru a saw day after day working them very hard (logging).
Our model engines never work that hard and should last a very long time sticking with good oil and not ingesting dirt or running lean.

Brian Smith

My Feedback: (117)

I really hate to ask this but what brand of oil do you normally use? Brian

Eganwp

My Feedback: (1)

I know some of you are incapable of actually being nice to people, but I guess that's just how people are...

I have my BSc. degree in math, so OBVIOUSLY I know it's insanely easy to calculate. I never said it was hard nor complicated, nor that it wasn't the best way. I simply built my own calculator for MY needs, not yours.

What I didn't tell you is that I wrote a program one afternoon to do more than just dividing two numbers together... I wrote a gas/oil calculator that takes input of a known gasoline quantity, or oil quantity, and allows you to tweak your ratio's on the fly. Lets say you have a 20L jerry can. Inside you've been running one of your engines at 50:1 and have 7L remaining. Now you want to break-in a new engine without going out and buying a second jerry can or pouring it out. So you now take that 7L @ 50:1 and want to break-in your engine at 32:1. So now you need 13L of gas mixed at 32:1 and you also need to add some oil to bring the previous 7L @ 50:1 up to 32:1 as you plan on being gone all weekend. Fair enough. Now lets say next weekend I want to take up one of our Ultralights. Since I never run these richer than 50:1, I need to add some gasoline to the total mixture to lean it out again.

Obiously it's all simple math, division and ratios, but it gets confusing when you're standing at the gas tank trying to run calculations in your head for all this. Thus, I made my own calculator.

With the little app I made, it takes all of 5 seconds to plug in the values and get your net result on gasoline required, oil required based on X sized jerry can. I also made it very open to unknow values, in that you can enter ratios as quanity of oil known only, ratio known only, or gasoline ration known only. I can even adjust my fuel ratios for differing octane. (IE, 7L of that gasoline was 87 octane fuel for a low compression DLE engine. But now I need to bring my octane levels up to 94 (just an example) for my new MVVS). Well now I know exactly how many liters of 100LL to pump from our fuel tank for our Cessna Cardinal...


I never said it was a simple calc like TOM poked at, but I built it solely for me and what I wanted to do. And yes, don't take this like I do this with fuel mixtures all the time! I usually use more than one jug generally, and it is never kept for more than 2 months. But there are times when I've done this before. When you have many many gas engines around, all with different requirements (yes most can be run on 32:1 or 40:1) I made it easier for MYSELF.

All I ask is that some of you use your head before simply blasting people.

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Brian,
I used Stihl mostly as I found it to be reliable as far as source. I also used oil from Bailey's logging supplies (house brand). I have found that the higher octane works better for me and is recommended by Stihl.

Brian Smith

My Feedback: (117)

Thank You..

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Eganwp,

I was having fun with you, not making fun of you. The use of text has a tendency to remove voice inflection and facial expressions from a conversation, right?

On a more serious note, why run more than one ratio for everything? If you run a new engine reasonably light for the first 4 hours or so you only need one oil and one ratio. Trust me when I say that many thousands of engines have been done this way and they all last longer than modeler engines. A modeler hits the ground and damages an engine loooong before it gets worn out.

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Never bent a crank on a Chainsaw or weed eater, but I killed a nice 26 cc last summer, asphalt, dead receivers and full speed down do not work out well ! The oil mix was right.

Eganwp

My Feedback: (1)

Haha, no worries and that statement wasn't directed at you. It was directed at who I quoted as well as the general sentiment of many on the forums as of late, not necessarily this thread. I knew you were poking fun, hence why I mentioned it.

That said, yes, I have come to terms with running a simpler set of oil mixes lately. Trouble is, often these engines were bought used, and run on X:1 ratio of brand Y oil. Since having my eyes "opened" to the amazing oil that Stihl Ultra is, I've started trying to switch things over, as well as convince others at the same time. I've come to terms with reality that whether engine X runs on 30:1 or engine Y runs on 40:1, either engine is going to perform just fine, and will long outlast my desire to use/own it for such little time these things are run.

I am a little wary and careful when it comes to Ultralights however, as it's you're butt up there in the air on a deadstick or any other failure for that matter. What a great hobby that is though, for those that haven't tried it I HIGHLY suggest you do so in this short life we all live. I'm relatively new to flying them solo, but have grown up with full scale planes and Ultralights on our farm my whole life. The rush you get when airborne in an Ultralight IMHO is priceless. Even better than in a full scale plane.

Anyway, enough rambling. It's not that Redline or Bel-Ray was bad by any means (Bel-ray has proven great in the dirtbikes), it's just their availability was a lot harder to come-by in the past, hence often sticking with mineral oils until several years ago. For example, up here in Canada, one of the only places you can find Redline Racing oil (at least when I briefly looked into it) was Canadian Tire. There's no way I'll ever trust them to always stock that product as it would suck to have to start shipping it in and paying duty/taxes/etc. Stihl seems to be relatively easy to get, and while not cheap, has thus far been my favorite oil. But as we all know, even the majority of us users here on the boards combined have just a fraction of the oil/engine experience in comparison to you Pat, or Jody for example. And we thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience with all of us.

God Bless!

Egan

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Excluding man carry rated equipment (only because I don't work in that field and have done no testing in it), there is not one single small to medium (up to about 250cc in most cases, some larger) two cycle engine made that can't be run on quality synthetic oil at 32-40:1 from the first start then on for it's entire life. The larger engines can use 50:1 from day one on,aside from different octane requirements this meansthey can all drink from the same well.Our use of these engines is very light duty compared to their industrial counterparts, we baby and pamper our engines with clean(er) air and fuel, we look at our spark plugs 5 times (and replace them at least once)within 20 hours of operation.

Not countingplanting them into the runway, the two things that cause more damage than anything else in our engines is oil type/brand (not ratio) and heat. Use enough of a quality synthetic oil and learn how to properlyprovide for cooling in any installation and you willenjoydamage free (and problem freeif you can also tune well)operation for literally hundreds of hours of flying time.

I don't understand why there is so much discussion about it, the samewinning formula has been written on these walls over and over againfor years.

Please make a note of it!

[8D]

TimBle

+1

This topic gets over complicated. When the MVVS arrives I will have 3 petrol engines, all can be run on 32:1 to 40:1 (the DLE20 included)

One mix, one can of petrol/2stroke mix is all thats needed.

Complicating things for the heck of it is a choice I just don't see why it needs to be shared with everyone including newbies looking to separate the smoke from the mirrors.

Petrol+good 2stroke sythetic @32:1 + Spark =

happy flying

gade600sdi

So Jody, I am using Stihl HP and here are the engines I have.

DLE 20
DLE 30 x2
Evolution 26GX
Zenoah 20
Zenoah 26
GT55 OS x2
DLE 55

I want to use only one fuel can, but i have been running 32:1 on the 30cc down engines and 50:1 on the 50cc engines (two fuel cans). According to your post, all would work at 32-40 ratio. So, if you had this portfolio of engines to quench, and you were to mix up one can only, what ratio of Stihl Ultra HP would you use....32...40...or other?

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

The smaller engines(20cc) have a higher oil content requirement, use 32:1, the 50cc engine will thank you as well.

Chew on this for a moment;

A DLE20 will fly for about 20 minutes on an 8 oz. tank of gas depending on throttle position. At 32:1, that full 8 oz. tank of fuel has 1/4 oz. of oil in it. Now measure out 1/4 (fluid) ounces of oil and look at it, not much oil for that much running time. That oil has to lubricate, seal, clean, and help cool the engine at RPMs near to or exceeding 10,000.

You make the call.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Your education is almost complete

Eganwp

My Feedback: (1)

But but but I like Amsoil @ 200:1 in my DLE-222!!!!

LOL

Joespeeder

Thanks Jodi !!!

As a total newb to this stuff that makes perfect sense....

I must go before the Jedi counsel to make sure my training is consistent with the good side of the force!!

I have to admit I'm still confused on weather to use Dino oil for break in or just use Synthetic all the way. I understand the higher oil content ratios but I've read too much since I'm switching from electrics all at once and my brain is getting full.[X(] I have 2 conversions I will be doing very soon and 2 winter builds. My engines are a DLE-20, NGH 17cc, JBA 15cc, and XYZ 53cc. All of them will get Stihl 32:1 after break-in.

I do remember the NGH calls for synthetic even on break in.

Do I Dino for break in ...oh master of all the fossil fuel burning arts !!!

Thanks again for all your help. Help me Obi Won Jody, you're my only hope...

Joe

TimBle

synthetic synthetic synthetic synthetic synthetic synthetic synthetic synthetic

karolh

Amen.

Karol

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Read post #20, page 1.

CustomPC

I researched myself into a quandary with all this oil stuff.

I've been looking at figures for all the different oils and trying to correlate it with user's experiences.

Numbers such as Viscosity and flashpoint etc.

The Stihl HP Ultra is unique because it has relatively low viscosity yet a very high flash point.

It's not available here in Australia so i'm trying to find an equivelent.

PE Reivers' (who's knowedge and experience i have much respect for) suggests that we need a high viscosity oil for the typical cantilever crank 2-stroke RC engines. He rate's oils such as Mobil 1 Racing and Motul 800 very highly. I couldn't find much anecdotal evidence of Mobil 1 being used by RC'ers but there are many that claim Motul 800 carbons up. Would this be due to the thicker oil hanging around on the metal long enough to be burnt rather than flowing off.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I ran Motul 800 for a couple of years and never experienced carbon issues. However I did tune my engines and never overheated them. Both will cause carbon issues if left unchecked. So will thin oil mixes. 50-1 Motul is very close in performance to 50-1 Redline 2 Stroke Racing oil. Neither are prone to generating heavy carbon deposits in engines set up and operated correctly. Flash point requirements are extremely dependant on internal cylinder temperatures and fuel types used, subjects none of you have the ability to measure.

There's a lot more to oil than what is found on the back of a bottle or a manufacturer spec sheet. The subject has been beat to death and nobody has yet to find a better oil than those recommended to date. Forget the TC ratings, look for JASO ratings instead. JASO is specifically for air cooled engine oils and far more stringent. TC is primarily for water cooled engines. So are ashless oils. Don't use them in air cooled engines.

Stop over thinking this stuff. Ya'll don't put this much thought into what oil you put in the engine of a $20,000.00 car.