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Fuel Pump Questions v2.0

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Old 10-14-2011, 03:44 PM
  #26  
captinjohn
 
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0

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Old 10-14-2011, 07:04 PM
  #27  
w8ye
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0

Things must be working pretty good for you to be able to copy and paste that message into a post twice?
Old 10-14-2011, 08:29 PM
  #28  
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0


ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

The regulators come with a check valve that pressurizes the tank using muffler pressure on a fourstroke and crankcase pressure on a two stroke and when you see the tank bulge, even one of those stiff walled Sullivans you'll see that there is plenty of pressure to regulate. Since the check valve traps the peak of the pressure pulses in the crankcase or muffler the pressure is considerable.

PS, it would not have been, ''hi jacking'' since it is the same topic.[8D]
OK, so, the regulators do help to increase the flow of fuel from a tank located further back than normal. Right?
Just not with a pumping action?

Oh, and Hobbsy, don't you have that backwards? Muffler pressure on a two stroke, and crankcase pressure on a four stroke?

Thanks, for all the replys, everyone,
EJ
Old 10-14-2011, 10:39 PM
  #29  
r/c-beginner
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0

umm im new to the hobby and thinking about buying a nitro r/c car of him but it wont start, dont want to buy it if i cant fix it. what could i try?
Old 10-14-2011, 10:48 PM
  #30  
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0


ORIGINAL: r/c-beginner

umm im new to the hobby and thinking about buying a nitro r/c car of him but it wont start, dont want to buy it if i cant fix it. what could i try?
I think you need to start a new thread in the car forum describing what kind of car and engine it is and the fuel/glow plug/starting system being used to get a better answer. Glow engines (or in the car world, nitro engines) need a healthy glow plug heated properly, fuel, air, and compression to run. Too much or too little of any of those will cause an engine to not start and/or run properly. There is no need for a fuel pump in a car engine since the fuel tank is almost always right in front of or right behind the engine.

Old 10-15-2011, 03:28 AM
  #31  
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0


ORIGINAL: N429EM


ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

The regulators come with a check valve that pressurizes the tank using muffler pressure on a fourstroke and crankcase pressure on a two stroke and when you see the tank bulge, even one of those stiff walled Sullivans you'll see that there is plenty of pressure to regulate. Since the check valve traps the peak of the pressure pulses in the crankcase or muffler the pressure is considerable.

PS, it would not have been, ''hi jacking'' since it is the same topic.[8D]
OK, so, the regulators do help to increase the flow of fuel from a tank located further back than normal. Right?
Just not with a pumping action?

Oh, and Hobbsy, don't you have that backwards? Muffler pressure on a two stroke, and crankcase pressure on a four stroke?

Thanks, for all the replys, everyone,
EJ
Hello EJ! a fellow sufferer i see,me too,i always get things back to front
Old 10-15-2011, 04:09 AM
  #32  
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0

No sir, I have it exactly correct, crankcase pressure from a tap on the backplate of a two stroke and muffler pressure from the stock pressure tap on a fourstroke. The tap on a fourstroke crankcase is strictly for a vent and should not be used for any other purpose. Actually I have a couple of older two stroke engines where the pressure tap is in the left mounting lug, I plugged them and put them in the back plate. There are two things of import to keep in mind when setting up a Cline or IronBay regulator, keep the check valve as close to pressure tap as you can get it and the same goes for the regulator body. The closer the regulator body is to the spraybar the more accurate it can read the demand. Having said that I have used a Cline on a Saito 1.30 twin with two 3" pieces of fuel tube on a Y and it worked perfectly. Don't buy into folks saying that the demand regulators won't work on an airbleed carb, the regulator doesn't know the difference.
Old 10-15-2011, 05:21 AM
  #33  
w8ye
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0

+1
Old 10-15-2011, 05:57 AM
  #34  
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0

Based on my experience with a VP-30 and having it not work real well for my intended purpose, Would you guys say it would be better to use a regulator alone if I needed to have the tank 9" away from the carb's spraybar and have good reliability?

Those regulators are pricey, do they ever really wear out?
Old 10-15-2011, 11:36 AM
  #35  
Hobbsy
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0

Glow fuel is kinda hard on them but they still last two or three years. It was the policy at IronBay to provide at least one free replacement diaphragm.
Old 10-15-2011, 12:39 PM
  #36  
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0


ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Glow fuel is kinda hard on them but they still last two or three years. It was the policy at IronBay to provide at least one free replacement diaphragm.
Does it matter if they were dried and cleaned out after each use to prolong their life or is it like a firework - light the fuse and when its done its done? Not that it matters... I cant imagine the diaphragms being that expensive..

On my original question - Will a regulator allow me to put the tank 9-10" away from the spraybar and not need a pump too? I've got an airboat that needs to have the tank below and behind the engine (6" below and 3" behind). The pump I have does work, but the idle and midrange end up being too rich with the pump set where the top rpm doesnt suffer.
Old 10-15-2011, 12:49 PM
  #37  
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0

10" would be nothing. Mr. Cline recommended that a piece of fuel tubing be run from the inlet to the outlet to store the Cline regulator, same for the IronBay. Flushing it with Foggin Oil from NAPA would be a great preservative and easy to do.
Old 10-15-2011, 12:54 PM
  #38  
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Default RE: Fuel Pump Questions v2.0


ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

10'' would be nothing. Mr. Cline recommended that a piece of fuel tubing be run from the inlet to the outlet to store the Cline regulator, same for the IronBay. Flushing it with Foggin Oil from NAPA would be a great preservative and easy to do.
Excellent. When I find a better .61 for my airboat, I'll get a regulator. A .46 doesnt have the snort to get my 7 pound hydrofoil airboat on plane.

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.

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