SIKK Motor issue
10-16-2011, 03:50 PM
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SIKK Motor issue
Hope to get some info....I pulled the cylinder off to check for a binding problem (I think its more in the starter) and noticed there was no base gasket but rather silicone instead, also it seems the piston is lightly touching the bottom of the head ( no damage to the ring land) Is this normal to leave the gasket out? I got this motor used in a RIO 51. Will a Zen gasket replace it?
Thanks
Rat
Thanks
Rat
10-16-2011, 05:56 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
Ive done some searching and found that this is an issue as its suppose to have a gasket!! I guess someone didnt want to order one...like the previous owner!
10-16-2011, 09:19 PM
#4
RE: SIKK Motor issue
I'm not saying that a Zen gasket will fit but it might as the bolt patterns are very close. There aren't too many sources left in the US for Sikk/CY engines, O'Neill Brothers and Zac at American RC Boats may still have some parts around yet.
Any kind of silicone sealer, Make-A-Gasket or others won't give you the correct thickness that you need unless you're very lucky and good with the stuff.
Any kind of silicone sealer, Make-A-Gasket or others won't give you the correct thickness that you need unless you're very lucky and good with the stuff.
10-16-2011, 09:58 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
If you take out the Gasket , it adds more compression and raises timing some. Its an easy way to add some HP . Not a Big Deal . How Does it Run? Re-seal it , just make sure you let the RTV fully Dry before you put it together
10-17-2011, 12:54 AM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
It ran fine but the piston is coming in contact with the head either when its wot or as it builds heat. After it ran a few laps we shut it down and went to start it back up....noticed it felt tight at the top of the compression stroke like the motor was binding. Had a tapping sound when you pull the starter with the plug out. I think it needs less squish in the cylinder.
10-17-2011, 04:33 AM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
A good source for Chung Yang parts is Dave's Discount Motors:
http://www.davesmotors.com/site/index.html
Try typing "cy" in the search box - it takes a while just to
read thru the results.
http://www.davesmotors.com/site/index.html
Try typing "cy" in the search box - it takes a while just to
read thru the results.
10-17-2011, 04:34 AM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
ORIGINAL: rat now
It ran fine but the piston is coming in contact with the head either when its wot or as it builds heat. After it ran a few laps we shut it down and went to start it back up....noticed it felt tight at the top of the compression stroke like the motor was binding. Had a tapping sound when you pull the starter with the plug out. I think it needs less squish in the cylinder.
It ran fine but the piston is coming in contact with the head either when its wot or as it builds heat. After it ran a few laps we shut it down and went to start it back up....noticed it felt tight at the top of the compression stroke like the motor was binding. Had a tapping sound when you pull the starter with the plug out. I think it needs less squish in the cylinder.
I believe if it is hitting you need more squish. It is ok if the proper sealetr is used to mount a cylinder dircectly on the deck and makes for a very strong engine engine assembly when they are bolted down soliod but it has to be done with teh proper clearance. I have a half dozen screaming engines that have never had a gasket under them. A sikk may be a bit different especially if it were a two bolt model. Those don't seal and mantyain that seal easily with a gasket so may not be good idea for those engines.
CY/Sikk 26 cc 2 bolt parts,
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...egory.27892/.f
4 bolt,
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...egory.96272/.f
CY/Sikk 27cc 2 bolt,
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...egory.89629/.f
4 bolt,
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...egory.89630/.f
10-17-2011, 01:56 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
Thanks for all the input guys...so should I just reseal it and leave the gasket out? It is a 2 bolt head and its just touching enough to leave a "C" shape mark on the piston and the head. No dent just a little kiss! When I used to drag race big block chevys, we ran the deck as to just barely leave a touch in the burn part of the head. Doesnt leave room for mistakes but it sure ran good. This motor looks like brand new inside , no piston skuff or cylinder wall scratches and like I said it was running great until we shut it off and tried to restart it and noticed it felt tight at the top of the stroke.
10-17-2011, 02:59 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
No, thats no good, you may also have a Bad bearing allowing the piston to come up farther. Bring the piston top dead center and holding the crank from spinning and see if you can get any play moving the piston up & down
10-17-2011, 03:23 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
ORIGINAL: hendocap
No, thats no good, you may also have a Bad bearing allowing the piston to come up farther. Bring the piston top dead center and holding the crank from spinning and see if you can get any play moving the piston up & down
No, thats no good, you may also have a Bad bearing allowing the piston to come up farther. Bring the piston top dead center and holding the crank from spinning and see if you can get any play moving the piston up & down
10-18-2011, 01:57 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
OK,To better answer this question better... You need that gasket! plain and sim ple!..On joe's 23 full mod zen,his friend sudjust to joe to just use RTV instead of the head gasket... well it rubbed at the top of the stroke..Then joe put the wright gasket and it did the trick!.. Do it the wright way.. We got two of the 2 bolt sikk's.. one went bad ,but will rebuild it.. need bearings and ring and gasket,this is on the mod motor.. was told by acouple of guys ,sikk motors are junk..We beg to differ on that.. Ask Ron Olson about it.. He saw it in joes rigger at the gas nats...Joe ran a backup sikk engine and that ran like a scolded dog...
10-18-2011, 02:09 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
Hey thanks, I do respect Rons advice as Ive read alot of his post. Man deffinatly has the experience. Next question is which thickness do I get or do I get several and check the squish on all of them? I wasnt very excited about putting silicone back on it.
10-18-2011, 02:14 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
A copper base gasket works well on the Sikk engine, as has been said though, it is important to get the cylinder down nice and level and tight, but go easy as they have a habit of snapping the mounting lugs off the cylinder.
They run OK when they are running though, pretty fast.
Glenn
They run OK when they are running though, pretty fast.
Glenn
10-18-2011, 02:23 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
You wouldnt happen to know the torque setting would you? This motor was running great before we shut it down...problem started when we went to restart it. All in all Im happy with it so far.
10-18-2011, 07:30 PM
#17
RE: SIKK Motor issue
Snug the bolts down good but don't go crazy and get out the 6-foot extension bar! 
Usually tightening them down with a ball-driver should get them where you want them to be.
After seeing Joe's boat run at the Gas Nat's I'm kind of regretting selling those motors to him as that 'rigger was scootin'!
Usually tightening them down with a ball-driver should get them where you want them to be.After seeing Joe's boat run at the Gas Nat's I'm kind of regretting selling those motors to him as that 'rigger was scootin'!
10-18-2011, 08:38 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
ORIGINAL: rat now
Hey thanks, I do respect Rons advice as Ive read alot of his post. Man deffinatly has the experience. Next question is which thickness do I get or do I get several and check the squish on all of them? I wasnt very excited about putting silicone back on it.
Hey thanks, I do respect Rons advice as Ive read alot of his post. Man deffinatly has the experience. Next question is which thickness do I get or do I get several and check the squish on all of them? I wasnt very excited about putting silicone back on it.
10-19-2011, 08:05 AM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
I've never found the torque settings for CY engines so I've been using
the settings from a Zen Owner's Manual.
- Std. Torque = 6.9 Newton Meters
- Limit Torque = 4.9 - 8.8 Newton Meters
If anyone knows that CY recommends values that differ from those listed
above please post.
Park Tools makes two beam style micro torque wrenches - the TW1 and
TW2. The reliability and accuracy is probably unrivaled. Nothing fancy
here but will do the job at a reasonable price.
http://www.parktool.com/
I found a TW1 at RealCyclist (lot's of bicycle suppliers sell these):
http://www.realcyclist.com/
Long Reach Hex Bits:
Harbor Freight sells item no. 67890. The S2 steel hex shafts appear
to be hard - no el cheapo soft stuff.
the settings from a Zen Owner's Manual.
- Std. Torque = 6.9 Newton Meters
- Limit Torque = 4.9 - 8.8 Newton Meters
If anyone knows that CY recommends values that differ from those listed
above please post.
Park Tools makes two beam style micro torque wrenches - the TW1 and
TW2. The reliability and accuracy is probably unrivaled. Nothing fancy
here but will do the job at a reasonable price.
http://www.parktool.com/
I found a TW1 at RealCyclist (lot's of bicycle suppliers sell these):
http://www.realcyclist.com/
Long Reach Hex Bits:
Harbor Freight sells item no. 67890. The S2 steel hex shafts appear
to be hard - no el cheapo soft stuff.
10-19-2011, 01:47 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
ORIGINAL: NailHead
I've never found the torque settings for CY engines so I've been using
the settings from a Zen Owner's Manual.
- Std. Torque = 6.9 Newton Meters
- Limit Torque = 4.9 - 8.8 Newton Meters
If anyone knows that CY recommends values that differ from those listed
above please post.
Park Tools makes two beam style micro torque wrenches - the TW1 and
TW2. The reliability and accuracy is probably unrivaled. Nothing fancy
here but will do the job at a reasonable price.
http://www.parktool.com/
I found a TW1 at RealCyclist (lot's of bicycle suppliers sell these):
http://www.realcyclist.com/
Long Reach Hex Bits:
Harbor Freight sells item no. 67890. The S2 steel hex shafts appear
to be hard - no el cheapo soft stuff.
I've never found the torque settings for CY engines so I've been using
the settings from a Zen Owner's Manual.
- Std. Torque = 6.9 Newton Meters
- Limit Torque = 4.9 - 8.8 Newton Meters
If anyone knows that CY recommends values that differ from those listed
above please post.
Park Tools makes two beam style micro torque wrenches - the TW1 and
TW2. The reliability and accuracy is probably unrivaled. Nothing fancy
here but will do the job at a reasonable price.
http://www.parktool.com/
I found a TW1 at RealCyclist (lot's of bicycle suppliers sell these):
http://www.realcyclist.com/
Long Reach Hex Bits:
Harbor Freight sells item no. 67890. The S2 steel hex shafts appear
to be hard - no el cheapo soft stuff.
10-20-2011, 09:38 AM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
TO CONVERT NEWTON METER TO INCH POUNDS:
The Newton Meter value is divided by 1.3558 to find the Foot Lbs. equivilant.
Then multipy Foot Lbs. by 12 to find Inch Lbs. equivilant.
OR
Nm / 1.3558 X 12 = in. lbs.
To convert 6.9 Nm to in. lbs. it would be:
6.9 Nm / 1.3558 = 5.09 ft. lbs.
5.09 ft. lbs. X 12 = 61.08 in. lbs.
__________________________________
"The best revenge is to live well."
Tom Selleck - Magnum P.I.
The Newton Meter value is divided by 1.3558 to find the Foot Lbs. equivilant.
Then multipy Foot Lbs. by 12 to find Inch Lbs. equivilant.
OR
Nm / 1.3558 X 12 = in. lbs.
To convert 6.9 Nm to in. lbs. it would be:
6.9 Nm / 1.3558 = 5.09 ft. lbs.
5.09 ft. lbs. X 12 = 61.08 in. lbs.
__________________________________
"The best revenge is to live well."
Tom Selleck - Magnum P.I.
10-20-2011, 03:18 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
Installing a gasket is probably wise. Those marks suggest that
engine is too close for comfort.
Our boating season will end here soon. As soon as it does I will
be tearing down my CY F273 for inspection. Maybe you can help me
figure out what the factory installed under the cylinder and
whether or not I need a replacement to reassemble.
Happen to have an R273 - 2 bolt here. Not sure if that is the
same type motor you are working on. The parts diagram lists an
item number 2; part code R2330-06000; name Cylinder Gasket
engine is too close for comfort.
Our boating season will end here soon. As soon as it does I will
be tearing down my CY F273 for inspection. Maybe you can help me
figure out what the factory installed under the cylinder and
whether or not I need a replacement to reassemble.
Happen to have an R273 - 2 bolt here. Not sure if that is the
same type motor you are working on. The parts diagram lists an
item number 2; part code R2330-06000; name Cylinder Gasket
10-20-2011, 03:38 PM
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RE: SIKK Motor issue
Mine is also a 2 bolt, problem being there was no gasket only red silicone. I just aquired this boat recently and last week was the first time I really ran it for some time. Ran great, but didnt sound right when we went to restart it. Felt like it was tight at the top of the stroke. I know why now. I 'll keep you informed
10-20-2011, 04:05 PM
#25
RE: SIKK Motor issue
DDM is the guys to talk to they list several gaskets for Sikk and diff thickness - they are the guys to talk to for SIkk
You need to measure squish and see what gasket you need
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...egory.27892/.f
how to make a tool to measure
http://www.modelgasboats.com/Magazin...t/Squish_Tool/
You need to measure squish and see what gasket you need
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...egory.27892/.f
how to make a tool to measure
http://www.modelgasboats.com/Magazin...t/Squish_Tool/