Another Skymaster Viper
09-06-2011, 04:12 PM
#1677
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Without going through 60+ pages of posts here, does anyone know what manufacturing changes SM has made since the initial production kits to over come the "issues" the first kits had? I'm referring to canopy issues, rudder, leading edges, missing hard points etc. I'm thinking about replacing mine.
09-27-2011, 09:44 PM
#1678
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Can anybody give me (on the conservative side) their EXACT throws on the control surfaces of this plane ?
And also the EXACT CG on a conservative side?
I had a Large SM Viperjet originally and she went in and was destroyed when a flap hung up on the TE wing skin. I think my throws for flaps and elevator were too high. Plus I have read many posts that the combination of too much throw and too tail heavy make this plane VERY susceptible to stalling.
Especially at tops or bottoms of loops where elevator may be accidentally applied too aggressively.
I am sure somewhere in the middle of this 65 page thread there are some throw settings but am looking for conservative CG and throws that will fly the plane well but err on the side of caution for things like stalling.
Thanks guys!
Shaz
And also the EXACT CG on a conservative side?
I had a Large SM Viperjet originally and she went in and was destroyed when a flap hung up on the TE wing skin. I think my throws for flaps and elevator were too high. Plus I have read many posts that the combination of too much throw and too tail heavy make this plane VERY susceptible to stalling.
Especially at tops or bottoms of loops where elevator may be accidentally applied too aggressively.
I am sure somewhere in the middle of this 65 page thread there are some throw settings but am looking for conservative CG and throws that will fly the plane well but err on the side of caution for things like stalling.
Thanks guys!
Shaz
11-03-2011, 05:09 PM
#1679
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Glad to see this thread Ali created is still hangin on!!!
I believe the CGis at the wingspar center. Sliding it front to back is your pref. But obviously a bit different with every model Viper due to resin and paint. also you may want to put a flap stop in to prevent the flap from tilting upwards in transit. A small piece of hardwood at the root prevents it from flap from gouing backwards and breaking. As for the gap seals sticking, that sucks. That happened in my first flight. It wasn't enough however to send the plane out of control for me. I just adjusted with aleron. Try a light heat gun on them and push down then heat and push down. Carefully though, you can melt the plastic very easily if your not careful. My new viper seems to be much better with these gap seals.
Many of you know me as "The guy who stalled his viper in a loop" and sent it into the woods failing to even apply throttle on the downside. Yea , I know. I'm better than that. I just flew carelessly that day. Never the less it did not discourage me from getting another and th build is going very smoothly this time since it is my second. Planning on doing all the goodies I had done before. I see they made some changes in the kit .....probably to save cost and weight. As usual, a few things were of concern. but I am proficient now at building and able to understand a bit more than before what needs to be done.
There is however one thing that I never asked anyone on my other jet and just figured out a fix on my own. The engine if you noticed mounts on a slant downwards so that the exhaust cone points downward slant and was of course the cause of me needing to replace the tailpipe twice due to a hotspot build up. After the second of course is when I noticed the problem. The best solution I came up with at the time was a doorstop looking shim under each side of the engine mount one on each side. Thinking a bit more on this one I thought maybe if I notch out the front former a bit below were they have it notched to slide trhe engine in that would do the trick.
Why is this like this and what did some of you do to fix this. The first Viper I had was powered by Evo, this one will have a merlin 160. Both seem to have the same problem with the engine mount.
11-04-2011, 01:32 AM
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
ORIGINAL: ViperJet1
Glad to see this thread Ali created is still hangin on!!!
I believe the CG is at the wingspar center. Sliding it front to back is your pref. But obviously a bit different with every model Viper due to resin and paint. also you may want to put a flap stop in to prevent the flap from tilting upwards in transit. A small piece of hardwood at the root prevents it from flap from gouing backwards and breaking. As for the gap seals sticking, that sucks. That happened in my first flight. It wasn't enough however to send the plane out of control for me. I just adjusted with aleron. Try a light heat gun on them and push down then heat and push down. Carefully though, you can melt the plastic very easily if your not careful. My new viper seems to be much better with these gap seals.
Many of you know me as ''The guy who stalled his viper in a loop'' and sent it into the woods failing to even apply throttle on the downside. Yea , I know. I'm better than that. I just flew carelessly that day. Never the less it did not discourage me from getting another and th build is going very smoothly this time since it is my second. Planning on doing all the goodies I had done before. I see they made some changes in the kit .....probably to save cost and weight. As usual, a few things were of concern. but I am proficient now at building and able to understand a bit more than before what needs to be done.
There is however one thing that I never asked anyone on my other jet and just figured out a fix on my own. The engine if you noticed mounts on a slant downwards so that the exhaust cone points downward slant and was of course the cause of me needing to replace the tailpipe twice due to a hotspot build up. After the second of course is when I noticed the problem. The best solution I came up with at the time was a doorstop looking shim under each side of the engine mount one on each side. Thinking a bit more on this one I thought maybe if I notch out the front former a bit below were they have it notched to slide trhe engine in that would do the trick.
Why is this like this and what did some of you do to fix this. The first Viper I had was powered by Evo, this one will have a merlin 160. Both seem to have the same problem with the engine mount.
Glad to see this thread Ali created is still hangin on!!!
I believe the CG is at the wingspar center. Sliding it front to back is your pref. But obviously a bit different with every model Viper due to resin and paint. also you may want to put a flap stop in to prevent the flap from tilting upwards in transit. A small piece of hardwood at the root prevents it from flap from gouing backwards and breaking. As for the gap seals sticking, that sucks. That happened in my first flight. It wasn't enough however to send the plane out of control for me. I just adjusted with aleron. Try a light heat gun on them and push down then heat and push down. Carefully though, you can melt the plastic very easily if your not careful. My new viper seems to be much better with these gap seals.
Many of you know me as ''The guy who stalled his viper in a loop'' and sent it into the woods failing to even apply throttle on the downside. Yea , I know. I'm better than that. I just flew carelessly that day. Never the less it did not discourage me from getting another and th build is going very smoothly this time since it is my second. Planning on doing all the goodies I had done before. I see they made some changes in the kit .....probably to save cost and weight. As usual, a few things were of concern. but I am proficient now at building and able to understand a bit more than before what needs to be done.
There is however one thing that I never asked anyone on my other jet and just figured out a fix on my own. The engine if you noticed mounts on a slant downwards so that the exhaust cone points downward slant and was of course the cause of me needing to replace the tailpipe twice due to a hotspot build up. After the second of course is when I noticed the problem. The best solution I came up with at the time was a doorstop looking shim under each side of the engine mount one on each side. Thinking a bit more on this one I thought maybe if I notch out the front former a bit below were they have it notched to slide trhe engine in that would do the trick.
Why is this like this and what did some of you do to fix this. The first Viper I had was powered by Evo, this one will have a merlin 160. Both seem to have the same problem with the engine mount.
Hi!
You are right! I also had this problem, look here.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9410572
Ciao
Alessandro
11-04-2011, 06:23 AM
#1681
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Yes,
Thats exactly what I did on my first viper!!
But I was thinking of refitting the rails. Much harder, but a cleaner setup. They seemed to interfeer with the bypass a bit. The wedges that is.
I somewhat like working out problems but this one seems to need an adjustment at the maker. ARF must mean re-engineering before flight. So it should be RBF.
Thats exactly what I did on my first viper!!
But I was thinking of refitting the rails. Much harder, but a cleaner setup. They seemed to interfeer with the bypass a bit. The wedges that is.
I somewhat like working out problems but this one seems to need an adjustment at the maker. ARF must mean re-engineering before flight. So it should be RBF.
11-04-2011, 06:51 AM
#1682
RE: Another Skymaster Viper
It was fine on [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9738340]mine[/link], delivered in Dec.09, only needed to shim it flat to center the Jetcat engine.
11-04-2011, 06:52 AM
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
ORIGINAL: ViperJet1
Yes,
Thats exactly what I did on my first viper!!
But I was thinking of refitting the rails. Much harder, but a cleaner setup. They seemed to interfeer with the bypass a bit. The wedges that is.
I somewhat like working out problems but this one seems to need an adjustment at the maker. ARF must mean re-engineering before flight. So it should be RBF.
Yes,
Thats exactly what I did on my first viper!!
But I was thinking of refitting the rails. Much harder, but a cleaner setup. They seemed to interfeer with the bypass a bit. The wedges that is.
I somewhat like working out problems but this one seems to need an adjustment at the maker. ARF must mean re-engineering before flight. So it should be RBF.
Ah ah ah you are right!
However at the end I didn't use the wedges but I've corrected the rails and then I found that the turbine was a little bit down but exactly in axis. So I inserted two pieces of flat wood, glued with some epoxy. All became very strong with a very little more weight
11-24-2011, 09:18 AM
#1684
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Thanks for your help on the rails for turbine. They now make a larger bell mouth that fits over the carbon bypass where heat before softened the carbon bypass where the pipe used to mount right on the bypass. My held up on my last viper at least that is until I put it into the ground (not due to the bypass melting) but was pretty sure that soon there would have been a problem. Just seemed like alot of heat for the carbon bypass. Lack of instructions and a engineer is what seems to be needed on these models even being an ARF. Things just don't make sense to me.
Like this, In the pic you can see the front mount for the rudder fin. They have put a nice little hole in the side of the fuse to tighten or loosen it.
Only one problem....What the heck is it? No allen fits its not a nut.....I even took a guess at they drilled the hole on the wrong side as you can see and obviously, I was wrong. Fixed it, and unhappy that I had to guess and guess wrong. Before all that I tried to get the thing out but cannot , its glued in. It kinda looks like they got glue all over it but I just can't tell. All in all this is ridiculous. I don't understand why you have to figure these stupid things out on these models. Don't you agree?
Like this, In the pic you can see the front mount for the rudder fin. They have put a nice little hole in the side of the fuse to tighten or loosen it.
Only one problem....What the heck is it? No allen fits its not a nut.....I even took a guess at they drilled the hole on the wrong side as you can see and obviously, I was wrong. Fixed it, and unhappy that I had to guess and guess wrong. Before all that I tried to get the thing out but cannot , its glued in. It kinda looks like they got glue all over it but I just can't tell. All in all this is ridiculous. I don't understand why you have to figure these stupid things out on these models. Don't you agree?
11-24-2011, 09:42 AM
#1685
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Sorry but I don't understand quite well your problems due to my poor english...
>What the heck is it? No allen fits its not a nut
Yes, is an allen, but metric! And I see that perhaps there is some glue on it!
Be very carefull with the carbon bypass! I took it away after a flame out of the turbine during a very fast passage over the runway with the turbine at minimum. I didn't crash the airplane because it flies so well!!
Too difficult for me to explain in english what happened but I've done 4 flights doing the same passage and all was ok.
Hope it can help!
Ciao
Alessandro
>What the heck is it? No allen fits its not a nut
Yes, is an allen, but metric! And I see that perhaps there is some glue on it!
Be very carefull with the carbon bypass! I took it away after a flame out of the turbine during a very fast passage over the runway with the turbine at minimum. I didn't crash the airplane because it flies so well!!
Too difficult for me to explain in english what happened but I've done 4 flights doing the same passage and all was ok.
Hope it can help!
Ciao
Alessandro
11-24-2011, 02:30 PM
#1686
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Thanks for the quick reply. Sorry if my english confused you. The rudder fin mount seemed to not allow an allen key to fit in it and I could not figure out why.
Turns out it was filled with glue. Go figure. a little drilling to bore out the allen slot and now it works. I just wish I knew that or tried that first and I wouldn't had put a hole in the other side of thefuse unnecessarily.
As for your flame out with the by-pass, I would say that had more to do with the engine than the by-pass but I would have like to had seen your setup. I ran an EVO in my last one and never had a flame out in the air. Only on the ground when humidity was high and I rapidly increased throttle. In the air it never happened. Hopefully it does not.
Thank Ciao!! I didn't see your reply before I responded. You are right, its glued.
Turns out it was filled with glue. Go figure. a little drilling to bore out the allen slot and now it works. I just wish I knew that or tried that first and I wouldn't had put a hole in the other side of thefuse unnecessarily.
As for your flame out with the by-pass, I would say that had more to do with the engine than the by-pass but I would have like to had seen your setup. I ran an EVO in my last one and never had a flame out in the air. Only on the ground when humidity was high and I rapidly increased throttle. In the air it never happened. Hopefully it does not.
Thank Ciao!! I didn't see your reply before I responded. You are right, its glued.
11-24-2011, 11:09 PM
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Few seconds of my last flight. I love this plane!!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-fczWDuYrE&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/youtube]
Now I'm thinking about the tomawack Viper..... 3,5 mt......
Ciao
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-fczWDuYrE&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/youtube]
Now I'm thinking about the tomawack Viper..... 3,5 mt......
Ciao
03-12-2013, 10:15 PM
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Dragging up an old thread. My viper will be here in a few days. Now I need some advice. What length titanium turnbuckles are people using for each surface? I am doing swb/clevis servo arms and 4/40 ball links between 2 carbon control horns on the surfaces. I was thinking of using 4/40 all thread incased in carbon but I like the look of the pro links more. Also is 1" servo arms enough or should i go 1.25"? i would think 1.25" would guve more clearance from the skin. Thanks in advance.
03-12-2013, 10:57 PM
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Hi , I am wanting to order a viper and i cant deside on a scheme .
I was hoping someone out ther can help me with any photos of a viper in custom colours or a colour swap ?
I am wanting something a bit different .Can anyone help me ?
I was hoping someone out ther can help me with any photos of a viper in custom colours or a colour swap ?
I am wanting something a bit different .Can anyone help me ?
07-09-2013, 09:24 PM
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Anton,
The bag for the Viper wings are not very good. First, the winglets are the parts that need most protection. Secondly, by putting bot wings in a single bag, putting the bag down is a problem, one would have to rest all the weight on one of the winglets - unless you find a spot where the winglets can overhang the support surface.
I have a set of bags (two) from Pull-over-products for my Big Viper - if anything, you should try and make your bag(s) similar to theirs.
Cheers,
Jan
The bag for the Viper wings are not very good. First, the winglets are the parts that need most protection. Secondly, by putting bot wings in a single bag, putting the bag down is a problem, one would have to rest all the weight on one of the winglets - unless you find a spot where the winglets can overhang the support surface.
I have a set of bags (two) from Pull-over-products for my Big Viper - if anything, you should try and make your bag(s) similar to theirs.
Cheers,
Jan
07-15-2013, 08:42 PM
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RE: Another Skymaster Viper
Anton,
Still don.'t like it. The winglets are pointing in opposite directions. This makes the
handling and packing of the bag very difficult. You should make a bag for each wing.
Regards,
Jan
Still don.'t like it. The winglets are pointing in opposite directions. This makes the
handling and packing of the bag very difficult. You should make a bag for each wing.
Regards,
Jan
07-16-2013, 12:17 AM
#1698
RE: Another Skymaster Viper
ORIGINAL: Springbok Flyer
Anton,
Still don.'t like it. The winglets are pointing in opposite directions. This makes the
handling and packing of the bag very difficult. You should make a bag for each wing.
Regards,
Jan
Anton,
Still don.'t like it. The winglets are pointing in opposite directions. This makes the
handling and packing of the bag very difficult. You should make a bag for each wing.
Regards,
Jan
this picture will show you correctly,.
