nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Fredo, Yes, at idle you're running on four. It might require a tweak on the lo speed needle.
Since it smooths out at a higher throttle it tells me that the hi speed setting is pretty close. The black gunk will go away after everything is seated in....you've got five cylinders.
Sorry I don't know thread sizes of the controls. Mitch

fredo

Thanks, it made me feel better. I was most worried about that black stuff.

IFLYBVM2

My Feedback: (360)

You will also find that black stuff much more when #3 is not firing, even after break in. This is due to un burnt oil in the fuel from the cylinder that is not firing. Nine o nine is correct that tweaking the low end as lean as possible should help the problem.
Thanks-Mike O

BIGDAMMODELS

Disassembled the 150's backplate today...found some interesting but crude troubleshooting info today on the Moki 150 ignition guys...hopefully it will help us all understand what takes place with the overall system...I'll get up a few pics and explain my findings on how I think it now works....from Ignition module to Spark-plug and all in between...

fredo

Great stuff " BIGDAMMODELS" that's what we all need to understand how this all works. Keep 'em coming

BIGDAMMODELS

Thanks fredo...we will all have a better understanding of the ignition when my repairs are done here...I'll document my complete findings here on the ignition system for sure and show some of the things I've done to figure this system out and how it works...First though, is a pic of the coils on our 150...as you can see, the assembly on this one may have been a little over-looked at the factory somehow...there is chaffing and pinched wires throughout the parameter of the coil pack where it exits the engine housing...there is no way to examine this with the engine running for a "jump spark" to crankcase grd, but it is a great area of concern pertaining to our misfire here...the assembly here between these parts is very very close and will require careful assembly and inspection for sure....pinched is not good anywhere here for obvious reasons, as the generated coil secondary voltage is very high here, and the slightest chaffing in any area could lead to problems...I found the "rubbing"culprit here that was causing it, and it was just a matter of clearance between the 2 parts when assembled....the one wire with the insulation rolled back is #3, and it was severely pinched..you can see the other "raw" places as well on the others...I found no carbon tracks anywhere that would suggest a misfire,but still have reason to believe that an underlying problem here was evident and in the workings for failure...there is a generous amount of some type of white silicone that was used in this area...does anyone know what type RTV or silicone this is?...I'm assuming a high quality or "special type" maybe due to the fact it is used around ignition components...I'll drop Vogelsang a line and report my findings on it's origin and what to use or not to use here on reassembly...the wrong sealant can cause extensive corrosion to all of these components btw...it's very important to not use just any type rtv from my engine experience...there's also no apparent gasket between the aluminum parts...very common...but a special sealant will be used for reassembly here...it's made for aluminum parts with very close tolerances and only cures in the absence of air...it remains flexible so it can expand with temps and is impervious to gas and oils....same stuff used on aircraft engines between block halfs on reassembly btw...I'll post as my time allows...stay tuned...

BIGDAMMODELS

Here's a shot of the intake plenum back plate assembly showing the scar from the rub...the chamfer is also visible which is where the rub happens upon assembly...this is a very tight arrangement that requires careful attention upon reassembly...you can also see that after removing a small area of the RTV from the coil pack that the Yellow wire is making contact at the center as well...this goes back to the CDI module and could possibly be an area of concern for the misfire as well...this may be a good area to look if you have one of them" run good today and not tomorrow" type situations with your Moki...I don't claim a defect here from Moki, but think that we may have gotten one of those that may have just slipped through the cracks of quality control maybe....it's repairable and will be worth all efforts to get in shape...a minor set-back but nontheless an important one...I'll keep you posted...

iflywarbirds

My Feedback: (12)

Billy..have to say that this is one excellent review...good detail with the camera also...keep up the good work...Gerry

BIGDAMMODELS

Thanks for looking...I'm gonna try and get a simple ignition schematic put together for troubleshooting soon...hopefully it will help all Moki owners understand the system better...this engine is well designed and should have come with a manual of some sorts...trouble shooting hints...parts breakdown...etc...it would be nice to see such....you'll see them gain ground in the rc world now that they are getting out there...they are the final missing link for a round cowl rc anything...they make them tops, like the Turbine done for the jets in my book...low pass Moki on all 5 and tuned...it don't get no better in my book...period....a big grin is unstoppable at this moment...

didiwatt

My Feedback: (38)

In reference to the APS fuel pump:

Am I missing something here? If there is a simple "T" on the feed line to the carburator, back to the fill line, how is any fuel pressure applied to the carb? Would not the fuel follow the path of least resistance right back to the tank?

I have been running mine without a return on a 50 and a 250 with no problems.

Dr. Goetz: could you be a little more specific why the return line is recommended, please.


Paul

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I think of it as an overflow return. It only lets excess fuel back to the tank. The pump needs to have fuel running through it even before the engine starts, and after it is shut down but before you get to the plane to turn off the pump.

FormerCA.

My Feedback: (8)

I did get some EXCELLENT customer service from Dr. Vogelsang the other day and friendly and helpful advice when I ordered 2 props and the fuel pump from him, i'll be a repeat customer.

Thanks Doc

oo7fly4fun

Thanks mick15 for your fuel pump help.

mick15

No problem, let me know how you get on with it.

m

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

Hello fellow MOKI owners and operators.

I acquired a crash damaged 250 and hope to have it flying some time in the future, so I could use your help. I am interested in purchasing used serviceable parts from your 250’s. Goetz told me all damaged parts from repairs he conducts are returned back to there customers. Some of these parts may need repairs before installation, but that is not a problem.

If you have anything collecting dust, please let me know.

POBO Aviation

Steve

goodinmw

Aloha Bill,
Great pictures. I'm tinkering with my own Moki 150. You've saved me a many steps-
and given me some ideas. If you could, on the intake plenum bore, what are the dimensions- specifically inside diameter and length?
Mahalo,
Mark

BIGDAMMODELS

Will do Mark....next trip to the shop today....Thanks....Hopefully the coils will be here soon for the repair work...please share your ideas...

BIGDAMMODELS

Hope this works for you...my measurement for the length...1 15/16 in....Intake plenum ID...15/32 in....Plenum OD...1/2 in....if you need Decimal Equivalents I can get those if needed...[

goodinmw

Mahalo Bill,
Fantastic!
I'm thinking of putting some vanes inside, something like on a propane torch tip.
Will let you know what happens. Will probably pull engine and mod over Veteran's day weekend.
Aloha, Mark

BIGDAMMODELS

I like the Idea...I've researched so much data lately on the early 150's...what I could find anyways...also looked and listened at so many different brands of Radials...most all have a uniqueness...especially sound...glows are abundant in my required cc size , most run great, but none have that throatiness and chop of the Moki...and I prefer gas over glow btw...I have a project in mind that the !50 Moki gasser would be the final piece to her, although she fits the cowl perfect, her cc is a little high...100cc seems ideal for her over the years...probably have to put a block of wood under the pedal , but the added weight and power should be predictable and ok......I, like some others I'm finding, are trying to invent that perfect fix for the 150 and her fuel issues when the Turbulator is a tight fit...Vogelsang has the proven undisputed fix for it with the turbulator and pump, pre Nov 2009 150's mind you , but for my clients particular application it would be great and a easier fix if the vanes were inclusive with the plenum also...I think that's a great idea and may produce some good results if adjusted correctly...keep us posted...I see such a great product with unparalleled leading potential and design for Moki gas radials here in the US from my findings...and to have to delay the flying season or special event because of anything going wrong with it from the lack of a part...depressing for sure...given the price...Thank goodness we have Dr Vogelsang around for keeping us in satisfactory Moki radial check...he makes me feel secure in another purchase of a 150 soon...regardless of Moki's stance of shipping on parts...he lifted mine and the owners spirits with the "parts on order" with a "E"...Thanks Dr...no fault of yours...we'll wait by the mailbox...and polish me up one of them 150's....Santa's coming...guess what I asked for...

tony67

My Feedback: (51)

Running my Moki with the pump for the first time today can someone let me know if we need to choke the engine or not
thank's
Tony

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Tony,

I am using the fuel pump and I do use the choke on the first start of the day and if I wait a long time in-between flights. Take care.

Jason

tony67

My Feedback: (51)

Thank's Jason for quick reply. I find pump is quite loud is this normal? and this may sound dumb but if the pump stops running for what ever reason in the air will the engine stop running or will the carb be able to pump enough gas to keep it running.
Tony

GaryM

My Feedback: (14)

Tony, I have the older pump, the 380, and yes it is kind of noisy. I cant speak for the newer one that came out some time in late May.
If the pump is not primed or full of fuel it will be even louder.

This is the sequence I use for starting my 150.
Choke on, throttle open about one half, ignition and pump off, firmly grip the prop and rotate thru 3 or 4 rotations. This makes sure your pump is primed and want have to run dry and also starts choking the engine.
Lower throttle to just a click or so above idle, turn on igniton and pump ( both or on one switch on my plane)
Choke is still closed, firmly grab a prop blade and pull thru, usually on the second or third attempt you will feel the motor bump indicating she is primed and the ignition is armed.
Open the choke and in most cases mine will start on the first flip.

On your question about the carb pulling fuel if the pump quits. You should have clipped and plugged the pulse line that operates the diaphram pump that is built into the carb, so the answer is no, the carb will not pull fuel if the pump quits.

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

I have the older 380 pump also and it is a little noisy, but have never had any problems with it. Like GaryM said, with the mechanical pump locked off, if the electric pump were to fail in flight, the motor would quit. Take care.

Jason