DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

Anyone ever put a G38 in a FW190 ? I know it would have the weight I would need up front and also plenty of power. I thought I knew what I wanted for a motor in it but now I am totally confused. [sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif]

krustyb12

DougB1
The DLE 30 is a great motor for this plane,the G38 would be too much imo and I don't know if you would have to cut even more out of the cowl to make it fit.
The lug breaking problems with the Turnigy 26 I read about could be caused by a lot of reasons,most people who reviewed it didn't have that problem.Big washers under the stand offs to spread the load more evenly on the firewall is always helpful.2 cents.

STICK MODE

there is 6 26 ccs in our club no one has ever had a prob with the tabs breaking like all things if you hit the ground hard enough yeh they break [:-]
the g38s a good motor your choice again but old

STICK MODE

thats what i did on mine eg washers (what we call penny washers about 2 cents each ) And any one should USE WASHERS on all gassers they do shake rattle and roll although the Turnigy 26 on idle was so smooth anlike my DL 55 in my precision aerobaticts edge 540 shes a SHAKER at idle

STICK MODE

YEH ITS A GOOD LINK think im still banded from the river head tavern >>>>>foresters arms [:-] used to go up by boat and tie up to the jetty till my pissed mate walked of the end one afternoon used to play good blues in the garden bar

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

I'm sure you heard the term "heavy metal" and this plane and there whole line of ARFs wear it with pride. This plane is not a Sunday flier and has to be treated with respect. Power management is the key to keeping it in one piece and that includes takeoffs and landings. I had the same FW190 sold under the name ESM and sad to say it is no more. I had a faulty on/off switch and it shut down while airborne. Mine weighted about 17lbs and the wing loading was approaching 40. This number should key you in on the performance. I wish you the best and keep you airspeed up.


PS: The company supplied retracts are APOS.

DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

The plane I have is the ESM model with the air up spring down landing gear. NOW the $100.00 question, which motor ? The Turnigy 26 OR DLE 30 The 26 is A LOT LESS MONEY but I have heard the 30's are real good motors that has been proven. LET'S VOTE [sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_down.gif][sm=confused.gif]

Red Falcon

My Feedback: (3)

DougB1, I would go with the DLE 30. I have had my plane for about 1 1/2 years now with a ton of flights and it still starts right up and runs great. Mine weighed 17.8 Lbs. before adding the drop tank pylon and hardware to drop bombs but I am sure a 26cc could fly it but why not just buy a proven engine. On page 70 post 1745 I have a youtube vid of it flying. If you view it, check out all my other videos of it flying also to include tank and bomb drops under Luthiery101. The only cutting on my cowl was spark plug and ignition wire and exhaust tube exit. On page 52 post 1285 and 1292 I have some picutres and we also talked about your delema of what engine to choose.

Good luck. This is a great plane!

STICK MODE

Have to go with what Red said and they do need weight up front the 30 is proven in this model take note on what flycatch said as well it has a heavy wing loading fly it like you would a fighter use the sky>>> lots of it and you will be ok my weight worked out the same as Reds just over 17lbs theres no vote its your plane so your decision but again the 30 is proven and use Power management again as flycatch said do not do tight bank and yanks it will tip in but as a plane to fly there great mines coming up the 100th flight

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

I would go with the DLE 30 because of the increase in weigh over the 26 and of course additional HP. I flew mine using an OS 1.6 glow and added about 1.5 lbs of dead weight in the cowl for balance.

DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

Thanks guys, I am going with the DLE 30 Now just have to sell a few more things at the next swap meet to make up the difference to buy it. To think I was going to put a Webra 1.20 in it to begin with ( which is for sale now ) Sure glad to have these forums to discover things before making a wrong choice.
THANKS AGAIN [sm=wink_smile.gif]

Red Falcon

My Feedback: (3)

I will also agre with Stickmode as you can not yank and bank this aircraft. It does have a very high wing loading and you will need to fly the plane to the ground on landing. Meaning keep power on until wheels touch down. I did place 1.7 Lbs of led up front with a bracket I made just over the engine. I placed my batteries against the firewall but on the inside. If you look at further post back, Royster was able to use the DLE and added no extra weight.

You will not be disappointed with this set up and have a great time flying it. Just remember, it is a warbird and flies like one!

I love this plane so much that I am debating on buying a second and just painting it a different scheme with more scale details! Thanks Tshero!!

Good luck again and looking forward to your progress.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

Don't waste your money. BH models is introducing a FW190A that can be modified to any variant of you choosing. Check out the video on the BH website. The design parameter are almost identical to the ESM offering but its' lightweight airframe will outperform the ESM version. The only detractor from BH version is the supplied retracts which are junk. You end up paying more because of the added retracts but you make it up in flight worthiness. I'm wating for the VQ distributor to come up with their release date. Modelers in; England, European countries, New Zeland and Australia have already received their ARFs.

STICK MODE

Have seen and handled the BH kit I wont print what I think of it here as im not one to slag a model off however I would not entertain buying nor building one myself over the years I have owned other BH kits there would be a number of questions I would ask my self even if I did entertain buying or building one. scale cockpit, .. who builds one ...pilot what size,... retracts what fits, over the years I have seen a few kits come and go some great flyers others knee knockers what can be achieved by using the ESM kit is quite amazing Starmer is posting a scale do over of his kit again ESM and a proven flyer
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...536&PN=1&TPN=1 any one considering doing this kit in full scale should have a peep at the site im sure Starmer eg Jason would welcome you there
I am currently doing this to the ESM D9 kit having stripped all covering off the wings for glassing etc I was happy with what I saw inside the wing (build and construction wise) no doubt the smaller A8 is the same. This kit bash will have full detailing sliding canopy cockpit panel lines and rivets sierra retracts both main and rear and a paint scheme of my own choice I wouldn’t again entertain the build and cost if I for one sec thought she would fly like a dog
One last thought and I have mentioned it before if you fly the FW A8 off grass do remove 12 mm of the bottom of the strut covers they can get caught in the grass and cause the plane to trip over if you need any more clarity I can post pics to show
just my 10 cents worth cheers

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

I hate to be one of those guys, but I've tried reading thru the 90 something pages of this thread for some ideas, so I'll just ask what's probably been asked numerous times already.

I've got my dle 30, ESM retracts and all the other bits and pieces on the way to complete this. From what I saw in the kit, the elevator uses a hidden pul pull linkage? Definitely not a fan, so servos for each elevator half. If anyone has done this, do you have a pic?

Also have the dubro tailwheel unit coming, are there any pics of the install?

Again, sorry for the same questions, but my eyes are crossed from reading , lol

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

Excellent thread, answered my question with tailwheel install.

Bill Rademacher

My Feedback: (77)

I didn't use the pull pull - I went with two single carbon pushrods internally.

my tailwheel is a dubro mounted to a vertical wooden plate in the front of the wheel well.

The wooden plate has a hole in it for the pushrods for rudder and elevator above the tailwheel bracket.


billrad

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

Did you make up a new joiner wire for the elevator?

SimonV6

I went with the pull pull, works great, but I did upgrade the pull pull cable

Bill Rademacher

My Feedback: (77)

my kit came with an elevator joiner for internal pull-pull, so I just ran the pushrod to it with a steel clevis. I reinforced the joint of the plate attached to the joiner wire.

I ran a pushrod to the rudder, then on the other side of the rudder, I ran a small pushrod back to the tailwheel.

billrad

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

Oh, I was confused. I thought I read you used one servo per half.

Bill Rademacher

My Feedback: (77)

Sorry for the confusion. One servo for elevator, one for rudder.

I also installed a full cockpit from tys planes, so I had to build up a higher servo mount for them, so that the pushrods would clear the bottom of the cockpit floor.

Servocity makes nice metal mounts now that would do the job also, I think. I built up mine out of wood.

billrad

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

I've started on mine, and the more I get into it, the more I'm dissatisfied. Just the overall finish on the fuse is terrible. From the fit of the formers to the paint. There is so much epoxy splashed around the inside of the fuse it looks like it was applied with a 6" brush. I've got runs in my paint, and where the red stripe is on the fuse, you can see where a "touch up" was attempted with a brush or finger tip, I can't tell. I may end up sanding and repainting this whole thing.

I used to say I couldn't build it that good for the price. Well, with this plane I could definitely could have produced a better finish product.

The wings look ok.

Dowmer

My Feedback: (1)

Mpizpilot,
Sorry to hear about this. My Fuse, although not perfect was finished pretty well. No issues like you mentioned. The cowl and gun hood didn't fit very good, but a little adjusting, sanding and it worked out well. Since I was refinishing everything (ie, painting ) I wasn't really concerened. The fiberglass fuse side at the former behind the cockpit was really thin in my ARF and I had to reinforce it with some fiberglass. You might want to check yours. Flash a light behind and look to see how bright it shines through. I actually poked my finger through the side accidentally when I picked it up. Overall, I'm happy considering the price. A little TLC here and there goes a long way. I'm not too concerned with what the finish looks like on the inside.

Jason

STICK MODE

Dissatisfied or disappointed? Are you going to put switches under the gun hood lets just say you are right!!! fit a cockpit pit <change your thought Patten now is your chance to get a plane you really like splash a bit of paint around like get rid of that red band and use yellow dirty it up scratch it in the rights places and it will look lake a FW and not one of the many mustangs I see at flyins with there proud owners standing there like some peace of poop has just stuck in there ass hooo humm yet more mustangs how boring (walks to one side and throws up) what you have in front of you is a bare blackboard as long as its structurally sound you can create what you like you will be only limited by your imagination check out what Starmer is doing with his one on his site and my self that has just destroyed a perfectly good D9 kit to change things to how I want any help you need just pm me or others so turn that every day arf in to real plane ps you will be amazed at how well they fly and land cheers Frank