etopsflight

Vava

I bought a kit Nitrage, not the ready to run version. I had trouble with one of the shock's cap coming off and losing the oil. It happened twice but never since.

Other than that's unless you're intending change the settings, it should be okay to run out the box. Just make sure you run it in by heat cycle method, NOT by the Tamiya instructions. You'll have a stronger and longer lasting engine.

Cheers

Etops

Atomika

Hey guys, haven't been on here in awhile. Anybody have any problems with their "Handy Start" ? Mine started acting up in July. You had to hit the button at jus the right angle for it to work. Now it doesn't work at all. I took it apart and did some testing. it seems to be something in the circuit board. Any Ideas on how to fix it? I've been using a drill in the mean time but its jus a pain in the butt as everything for my nitrage fit nicely in my toolbox and drill is way to big.

coalminer

Hi Atomica.

I had a starter fail on me too, but it was mechanical failure of the gears inside. Good news is, I saved the pcb from the old starter and your welcome to have it, I can post on to you if you wish. I have two more starters complete, so I wont miss the pcb. I have pm'd you for address.

Atomika

Hells yeah dude! I PMed my add to ya. Thanx Coalminer.

hjtrbo

Got it going. Fired first start after a year and a half and it ran sweet as with no dramas. Even picked up the rear and smoked over the tyres! Installed the HPI hubs with HPI 7" wheels.

coalminer

Thats still a good looking bugger of a motor you got there HJ, keep it running

hjtrbo

Thanks.

I used to chew through the diffs like crazy. This time round I have replaced the ENTIRE drive train. Clutch, clutch bell,ALL drive line bearings, drive shafts, all three diffs and diff cases, axles, new wheels etc. Pretty much have no vibration when i'm revving on the starter box. I used to have alot. The diffs don't get hot like they used too. FIngers crossed it lasts for 2 gallons, because i'm going to thrash the living hell out of it.

drewmaloy

My Feedback: (7)

finally at the end of this thread! and no i didn't read it all haha

hopefully i get to post pics soon!

is there anything new thats know about the nitrage? compatible parts? thanks

Atomika

Hey Coalminer, Got the PCB in the mail the other day. (I dig the packaging, you can tell ur a hobbist Got er soldered in and it works like a charm. thanx again dude.

coalminer

Glad it was of some help to you mate, any time. Old Tamyas never die.....they just keep on layin rubber.

Coalminer

jupman

Hi All.

coalminer

Welcome Jupman and your pal.

Your gonna have some great fun with the Nitrage. hop ups, well , to be frankly honest, the Nitrage does not need a great deal of hop ups, she runs just fine sraight out of the box. the front disc brake is a must, its cheap and easy to fit and gives double the braking power. I have fitted the anti roll bar kit, but to be honest I dont think it really changes the handling that much, but again its cheap and worth a go. Some folk on here have fitted the two speed option kit, I however have not so I cant comment there, but some that have fitted the two speeder have reported that it can fry the rear diff if it is not set up correctly, but hey I would still give it a go some day.

In my opinion this model is a great hard wearing and super handling car, the Ofna 32 engine however is weak,not power wise, far from it, I mean its life cycle, but that is only my opinion, treat the engine with care, "after run oil it" every time and run it on the rich side and she will last better. Other than that , I love this model. the only spares that I have really needed to fit, is new clutch shoes, get your self a spare set if you can.

Regarding the shocks you mentioned, I cant comment, but I have fitted the stiffer yellow springs from the Nitrages predecessor the Tamiya TNX and they are more robust for jumps etc. The car is rock solid, I have two of these and have put both through their paces and never caused any suspension damage despite still using the stock plastic arms, this car is indestructable mate, just look after the engine is all I can say.

Regarding the power on, coming out of a brake and turn, it sounds to me like you have a low speed needle setting issue there . Try adjusting the low speed needle a tad either way, but only about an 1/8th of a turn at a time and see how she goes.

welcome to the site and enjoy the nitrage

Coalminer

jupman

Thanks very much for the reply.

sparksy82

YES the 2 speed is not bad it takes the center diff out but get the brake hop up cos with the 2 speed its not pulling up has good any more lol and the sway bar works not that well but will help . sorry for my bad spelling

jupman

I have heard people complaining about the turning circle of the Nitrage.  I cant say it's a hige problem for me at the moment though.  A guy at the local track suggested i change the tyres.....and maybe get a stronger steering servo....

pmacpictures

Hi Jupman,

I have the sway bars, TNX yellow springs with 500 weight shock oil, Shock Socks, diff oil (10, 30, 5 when the centre diff was in), OFNA Mutilator exhaustand now a 2 speed gear box but still haven't run it enough to see how much fun it really is..

I also just put in a new Steering servo. It is a cheapy so we will see how long it lasts. Link to video of difference with wheels off the ground (the differnce between them when it is the ground is amazing).

Hope you have fun with the nitrage. It is awesome.

Cheers,
Patrick

jupman

Thanks for that video.  Definitly looks like a decent difference!!

pmacpictures

the springs gave a little more clearance but the best thing was that it gave a heap more stability for landing jumps.

Damage so far is one broken lower front arm.  My fault as I landed wrong and flipped front to back 4 times.

sparksy82

yes the stock springs are way to soft i must say and the stock tyers and not that good cos there thin and brake ezy lol i have heeps of holls in my'n and its not that old lol
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67...34/key_/tm.htmmy'n is the 14th post down and you can see the springs are way to soft lol
ok i have tot told any one this lol i got my'n cheap cos a mate war having over heating problems to i got it for $150 lol and gone hop up mad and its been good

nitrageowner

Hi coalminer, I have a question that I hope you answer. I have been having so many issues with my nitrage engine, such as whene I had that issue where the pin and spring starter assembly the pin keep getting flush due to that the starter would not grab, and now whene I take the engine apart and try to cycle the piston with my hand the piston is catching so much friction I almost have to clench my teeth whene trying to cycle the piston. If I were to purchase a piston with the rod and piston sleeve for $87 will this leave me worry free? as far as the issues of the engine. *note:the piston have now is somewhat pitted and the engine will not start due to the fricton between the piston and the sleeve. Please let me know all youre thoughts on this issue.....?????

jupman

I installed some hop ups this weekend.  Fitted the stabiliser set, Front brake set and Aluminium heat sink.

coalminer

Hi nitrageowner

Sounds like you have two problems there pal, firstly you mention the starter pin not grabbing, this problem is more likely to be the one-way bearing not biting on the starter shaft, try lubing up the bearing with a little penetrating oil to free it up and then grease it a little, failing that a new one-way bearing may be needed .

the piston should be tight in the cylinder sleeve when the piston is at the top due to the very slightly tapered shape of the sleeve and piston, but it should not stop you from starting the engine from the pullstart, unless it is hydraulically locked by excess fuel in the piston. This does some times happen , the best way to tell is to remove or loosen the glow plug and then try and pullstart it, if its still tight then you have a problem .
You mention pitting of the piston !!, Is there any side scoring of the piston at all ?. I have had on one occasion where the crank rear bearing splintered from just one ball and the fragment passed up the side of the piston and sleeve scoring it, making it impossible to start, it also must have been bouncing around in the top of the piston too and caused bad pitting....mechanical pitting by a loose particle in there , yours may be pitting due to over heating. You should be able to turn your engine over by the flywheel , feeling some resistance just before top dead centre, if you can not turn it over with the flywheel and its getting stuck tight, you have a problem, I cant say for definate that a new piston and sleeve is the answer , but take it appart and have another good look at the state of the piston and sleeve. How old is the engine, has it done a alot of miles,?? The engines only have a limited life and dont last forever. It depends on the wear of other parts in the engine, if the crank, the bearings and the conrod are also shot, then just buying a new sleeve and piston is false economy and a whole new engine may be the answer.

jupman

Since my last post I have had couple of frustrating track visits.

Atomika

K guys heres the situation. My truck its hella sloppy at the track. I have a few mods to on my list but would like assistance on what else I need to do to be able to have my truck function well at the track.

So far on my list are:
Stiffer Springs
Front breaks
Sway bars.
& wheel extenter/adapters and truggy tires.

I'm wondering what fluids I should put in my diffs to give it more punch. My buddy has a Mutilator which runs the same .32 but his performs soo much better than mine.

any help would be greatly appriciated.

fastmaxxcooper

My Feedback: (5)

hows the steering on yours? Mine was getting much worse until I replaced the stock steering servo. I had almost no steering!

Also put the thickest center diff fluid you can in the truggy. It is an undersized diff that doesn't respond well to normal viscosities.