Zlash03

My Feedback: (1)

So I got this car for christmas and was really excited. I tried to start it yesterday after I charged the igniter for 9 1/2 hours. I primed it just like the book, and numerous videos said and followed every single direction 100% exactly and it just wont start. I didnt know much about the cars but now im learning alot just from the hands-on experience. After that I put the igniter in the charger for 15 HOURS and tried it today. It still didnt work. Ive spent at least 10 hours making different changes and reading but to no help. One time when I pulled it, it tried to start for a few seconds then went dead. It hasnt tried to start since. I dont know much about the glow plug system but one thing I notice is when the Plug is firmly screwed in, the pull start is very hard to pull if not impossible. But when its slightly loosened or taken out, it pulls nice and smoothly. I dont know if thats a problem. (It is for starting purporses) I havent made any carb adjustments though, I left them all factory.Tomorrow im taking it to a shop to see if they can figure out whats wrong with it or get it running for me. I posted this because it could keep me from going there and spending any money for the labor or whatever. I also did because I am completely fed up and baffeled on why it wont work. Thanks for the help.

deon99

you can check the glow plug by pulling it out and with a pair of needle nose pliers put the glow plug in the igniter  and see if it glows red there will be a coil on the bottom of the glow plug try not to damage. if  it doesn't glow it may be the plug or igniter good luck

Zlash03

My Feedback: (1)

I actually did do that and the plug started glowing bright yellow within seconds.

dragunz

what u can do to start off as, make sure your gas is making it to the cab. "step 1. fill the tank up and put your finger over the muffler hole and pull the string. you should see the gas go up the line. Next you can just put a drop of gas in the cab on the top. "just pull the air filter off" some things you can do to start for the first time.

deon99

Bummer  like you i am baffeled  have never had anything that didn't start  you could have the same problem i do. In the needle setting are wrong.  i left a message at Redcat,and the message board here.  What are the default settings. Waiting to here back. Maybe you should try Redcat.

nitrosportsandrunner

try this
1) pre-heat the motor with a hair dryer.
you said it was hard to pull over when the glow plug is tight. Thats how it should be. when the piston hits TDC it meets the wall of the cylinder(called pinch)
After the motor is broken in(see redcat vids and read manual for the process) it will be much easier to pull over.
2) pull the starter 3-4 times with your finger over the muffler.
3) now put the glow plug warmer on and pull it over.

Before you do all that re-set the needles to stock.

also, have you adjusted the idle set screw yet? The carb opening should be about 2mm when the throttle is closed.

dont quote me, but i think the initial settings are 4 turns out on the High speed and 3 on the low speed.
screw the needle all the way in(do not over tighten!) then back it out 4 turns.

However, for breaking in the motor the high speed and idle set screw settings are most important. the low speed wont effect it much.

Dads like rc too

hard to pull is one thing - I would refer to what Nitro wrote. Impossible? Are you having to hold your car down when pulling it? If you are your flooding the motor and on your way to your first broken pullstart. If this happens remove the plug and fuel line and keep pulling it until the fuel mist stops blowing out. Gently dry off the glow plug "don't break the coil" and put it back in.

1st starts usually go really easy or sometimes frustrating "especially if you don't have someone experienced around" . Sometimes you may have to lean your high speed needle just a touch to get it started. Small increment like 1/8 of a turn or less. Also the temp has a lot to do with things. If it's really cold outside your engine will run lean to begin with. Like Nitro said, you can try warming up the head a little if it's cold out. Also keep in mind when breaking in the engine you want it to get up to temp. Running it a 130 degrees will not get it hot enough to give you the expansion in the sleave that you want for a good break in so either make sure it's not freezing out or wrap the head with alluminum foil to get it up to temp.

As far as the barrel setting goes, the 2mm others were refering to looks like the hole when you look into the carb is just slightly visible. A good way to tell is disconnect your carb linkage and hold the throttle fully closed. While holding it closed turn in your idle screw. You will actually feel the barrel opening. This will also prevent the barrel from fully closing and stalling the engine when you hit the brakes.

Remember when using the pullstart that your not starting a lawn mower. Short quick bursts. 3-4 inches. You should really just be using your wrist and not flexing your arm. This will give you 5-6 revolutions with each pull rather than trying to pull the pull starter out farther.

Zlash03

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for everything but amazingly I did all of that before it was mentioned. The hair dryer method didnt help and I have put a few drops of gas in each hole. (In the carb and in the glow plug hole) I also did the priming thing each and every time and made sure the fuel got to the carb. It had no problem doing that. It reached the carb in 2 pulls. The only thing I ever did that helped something was when I sprayed WD40 into the cylinder through the glow plug hole and it pulled smoother.

Zlash03

My Feedback: (1)

Yes when I pull it I basically have to push the entire car flat on the ground and then sometimes it still gets stuck and even pulls the car out of my hand. (Thats only when the plug is fully tightened) When I try starting it I start it in the house first and if it actually ran I would bring it outside because the temperature is only about 30F, maybe a little more.

When I did heat up the head I made it really hot, basically it would burn anyonereal bad.

Dads like rc too

Well you can say thats a good thing because if your glow plug is testing good like you said it was then it sounds like your basic problem is your over-priming your engine when you try to start it. If the engine is flooded it's never going to start. Pull the plug and crank all that fuel out of it. Flooding and continually trying to start it can also damage the glow plug as well as greatly weaken your pull start "and your patients". Go at it fresh tomorrow. Put a new plug in it, try pulling it a few times without even priming it, then put your igniter on. If it doesn't cough in 5-10 pulls take the igniter off and prime it 2-5 pulls, then pull it 3 or 4 times without priming. Put you igniter on and crank it up. Good luck

nitrosportsandrunner

what fuel are you using?

pre heating the motor with a hair dryer should make a difference in how hard it is to pull?

try putting a bit of fuel right into the carb....without having primed the motor.

what is the gap on the carb opening? The gap you see when you remove the air filter. It shouldnt be any bigger than the tip of a pen.

If the gap is to large then it will flood the motor when you try to start.

also, since the temps are cold, you may need to close the gap a bit more. Cold temps mean denser air...so you need less air, otherwise the fuel mixture will be lean.

Zlash03

My Feedback: (1)

I made a few carb adjustments, took it outside, and tried to start it. For a few pulls it actually tried to turn over. I didnt use the hair dryer on it before hand. Ill try all the things that you guys told me and what else I learned tomorrow morning before I go to the shop.

Im using Torco 20%. (I think, cant look cause my fuel is in the garage) The gap on the carb is about that size.

nitrosportsandrunner

Ok, brand of fuel doesnt matter as much as the nitro content. 20% is best for that motor.

do be careful with the pull starter. I broke a pull starter cord once when i had trouble breaking in a new motor. I got frustrated and started pulling to hard and to far. Nothing worse than snapping a cord before you even got the motor broken in!

again, with the cold/dense are you may need to make the carb gap a bit smaller for it to start.

Zlash03

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah it is 20%. And I will take that adjustment into account tomorrow when I try again. Thanks.

nitrosportsandrunner

no problem.
nitros can be uber frustrating when they dont wanna run....but the coolest thing out there when the do!

Zlash03

My Feedback: (1)

The good news is I got it to run yesterday after a few more hours of tuning. I set everything to how it was shown in the videos, but I have 2 problems.

1. When I adjust the carb to 1mm and dont turn the radio or car on, it starts to go full throttle. Yesterday it wouldnt stop, even pinching the fuel line.
2. When I have both things on and start it, it will cut out after a few seconds but wont rev to full speed. I noticed the more you prime it the longer it stays on.

I can see it staying on when its full throttle cause its sucking the fuel in faster. Another problem is my high speed adjustment is very picky. If I turn it to much it floods in one prime pull, or it will cut out cause it wont get enough fuel. It doesnt seem to be able to find a perfect spot. I also hate the flooding thing cause its wasting my $35 gallon of nitro. Is there a possibilty I need to change the low speed adjustment?

ShredderGuy

It will almost always want to run like a bat out of hell if the radio is off.

When it is on use the throttle trim and open up the throttle a little. That might take care of your issue.

Your low speed needle could be an issue. I have had mine basically vibrate into a closed position before. So you might want to check that also.

Zlash03

My Feedback: (1)

I did try pulling the throttle yesterday and it did seem to help. It lasted a little longer but still went out when ever it felt like it, so I guess I will try checking the low speed also tomorrow. I start it in my house first where its about 60-70F, then bring it outside. ( Starting it inside yesterday was almost a BIG mistake.) So depending on the temperature, how far should I open it?

Dads like rc too

ok it sounds like your almost back to the beginning. Make sure your needles are back to factory. If they are it will be spitting fuel everywhere, that's ok. Once started it will want to stall from all the fuel in the engine, you need all this fuel to break the engine in. First thing to do is attempt to keep it idling by either bumping your throttle setpoint like Shredder suggested or you may have to turn your idle screw in just a little. Now you don't want it screaming, just enough to keep the car idling. If both of these fail you may have to lean the high speed needle a bit by turning it clockwise. Now remember you want it rich and spitting fuel so you are just turning it enough to keep it running. A normally adjusted engine set for break-in will almost stall if you attempt to raise the throttle quickly so don't be alarmed if thats whats happening. If your low speed is back to factory adjustment I doubt it's giving you any problems, if it were too lean it might but having it backed out will give it plenty of fuel, enough that you will certainly have to lean out the low speed later once it's broke in for proper acceleration.

Dads like rc too

Man what are running in that thing, Cam 2 racing fuel? I pay $22 here at the beach for a gallon!

Night_Train

you must be gettin your from ed's hobby shop . This torco 20% is the bomb though! need to read up on it some, alsocheck outyour temp while running it. mademine run cooler.

rchobbyunlimited

WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!!! $22.00 man thats almost cheaper then waht I can buy it for now thats a great deal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DKnox

First of all you should always have the car and the remote turned on BEFOREyou try to start the car. If you don't then the carb openning will be way to big. Also when you adjust the carb setting make sure both are turned on. I did the same thing when Igot my Nitro and it was very frustrating.

As for the car wanting to take off when you start it, again make sure the remote and the car are turned on. Also, get a good fail safe and make sure it's set up correctly. Thatshould stop those problems.

Dads like rc too

yeah, I'm here at the beach. I get a gallon of 20% sidewinder for $22 and change.

Dads like rc too

I know everybody feels very strongly about this subject but I hate fail safes. My reasoning is if your battery connections jar loose which has happend to me several times, the fail safe is done. A good example of this would be after watching your truck cartwheel out of control, it loses it's battery connection "and fail safe" rolls back over full throttle and takes off. I like the old carb spring method myself, and with the distance you can run on these radios today, signal loss shouldn't be a factor. To me the spring works for a complete battery loss or just a weak battery condition.