.60 size Pattern Tiporare Build
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RE: .60 size Pattern Tiporare Build
David,
First of all I hope your daughter is doing better.
Second, Can you measure the length of your pipe on the Rossi engine and give me some dimensions. Let me know the starting and ending points and if you are measuring the outside radius, inside or on the centerline.
Once I get the blend of the fuselage and vertical fin to my satisfaction I will be ready for priming, or at least I think I am. Maybe later today I can work on the blending.
I have spent the last two days getting the Phoenix 8 ready for the field and that is done now.
I als have a Bucker Jungman that needs to have a crack in the engine cowling repaired and need to relocate the header pipe to clear the issue of it vibrating and hitting the cowling.
Jim
First of all I hope your daughter is doing better.
Second, Can you measure the length of your pipe on the Rossi engine and give me some dimensions. Let me know the starting and ending points and if you are measuring the outside radius, inside or on the centerline.
Once I get the blend of the fuselage and vertical fin to my satisfaction I will be ready for priming, or at least I think I am. Maybe later today I can work on the blending.
I have spent the last two days getting the Phoenix 8 ready for the field and that is done now.
I als have a Bucker Jungman that needs to have a crack in the engine cowling repaired and need to relocate the header pipe to clear the issue of it vibrating and hitting the cowling.
Jim
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RE: .60 size Pattern Tiporare Build
Not much activity right now. I think I am close to priming but the humidity here in Savannah is out the roof. Least it has been is 65% lately. I will post something when something is accomplished.
Jim
Jim
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RE: .60 size Pattern Tiporare Build
I finally had a humidity low enough to prime the fuselage. I thought that I had done a good job sanding and contouring but that is not the case. I have low spots, high spots and poor contour in several places. I think that my next move is to sand everything out with a block and fill all of the low spots and get the contours better. It does not have to be perfect but I do not want to be embarrased with my modeling efforts. Apparently this is going to take some time. Since this is my first try at making contours from wood I guess it isn't all that bad but I would like to be better.
Jim
Jim
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RE: .60 size Pattern Tiporare Build
Hey Jim,
just figures; as your humidity drops, ours hit 89% today. Was hoping to get the final touch on the trim colours (the canopy) today but no such luck.
The priming is a real eye opener! The good news is that I like to think of it as part of the build - it really tells you where you have to go to work. Before you start sanding, I'd hit the body filler (don't use anything that can't be wet sanded) to fill any uneven or low areas. You can then sand the lot uniformly down once the filler has cured (its pretty fast).
If it's any comfort, know that I spent 3 weeks preparing the fuse for basecoat. The actual white base coat went on in a week and the trim colours in a few days. I should also mention that I used three different types of primer - sanding primer, which you can use primarily in conjunction with the body filler to obtain a smooth sealed surface, high build primer (to fill any minor imperfections up to 1/16" deep) and primer sealer - the final layer prior to the colour basecoat.
If you are an experienced painter then the above is all moot but if you're not, you might want to look for a light grey high build primer that wet sands nicely. I used a polyester resin based primer which went on and wet sanded like a dream.
Keep at it, now that you're at the finishing stage, you're 40% there... [8D]
Once the model is finished, you'll be 80% there!
David.
just figures; as your humidity drops, ours hit 89% today. Was hoping to get the final touch on the trim colours (the canopy) today but no such luck.
The priming is a real eye opener! The good news is that I like to think of it as part of the build - it really tells you where you have to go to work. Before you start sanding, I'd hit the body filler (don't use anything that can't be wet sanded) to fill any uneven or low areas. You can then sand the lot uniformly down once the filler has cured (its pretty fast).
If it's any comfort, know that I spent 3 weeks preparing the fuse for basecoat. The actual white base coat went on in a week and the trim colours in a few days. I should also mention that I used three different types of primer - sanding primer, which you can use primarily in conjunction with the body filler to obtain a smooth sealed surface, high build primer (to fill any minor imperfections up to 1/16" deep) and primer sealer - the final layer prior to the colour basecoat.
If you are an experienced painter then the above is all moot but if you're not, you might want to look for a light grey high build primer that wet sands nicely. I used a polyester resin based primer which went on and wet sanded like a dream.
Keep at it, now that you're at the finishing stage, you're 40% there... [8D]
Once the model is finished, you'll be 80% there!
David.
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RE: .60 size Pattern Tiporare Build
The Tipo is on hold for right now. I just do not feel energetic and will wait for a better day. I still have some sanding and shaping to do. I have an unexpected epoxy run to get out of the vertical fin also.
I will post something when it is accomplished.
Jim
I will post something when it is accomplished.
Jim
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RE: .60 size Pattern Tiporare Build
Jim,
I'm sorry to hear that you have not been feeling well. I was going to inquire about your progress this weekend as you hadn't posted in a while. Get a good night's rest, have a good breakfast on a sunny morning, take the fuse outside and hopefully some energy will come back - you're almost there! I'll post some motivational photos in a couple of weeks or so if you like - I'm close to being done on the finish at my end (albeit, with a cold at present...).
By the way, if you have a dremel tool, put a sanding drum on it and hit the epoxy run, it will come right out. Just careful not to gouge the rudder wood surrounding it. Some masking tape helps. A steady hand is also needed. Do the last bit with a flat sanding bar.
David.
I'm sorry to hear that you have not been feeling well. I was going to inquire about your progress this weekend as you hadn't posted in a while. Get a good night's rest, have a good breakfast on a sunny morning, take the fuse outside and hopefully some energy will come back - you're almost there! I'll post some motivational photos in a couple of weeks or so if you like - I'm close to being done on the finish at my end (albeit, with a cold at present...).
By the way, if you have a dremel tool, put a sanding drum on it and hit the epoxy run, it will come right out. Just careful not to gouge the rudder wood surrounding it. Some masking tape helps. A steady hand is also needed. Do the last bit with a flat sanding bar.
David.
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RE: .60 size Pattern Tiporare Build
ORIGINAL: Jim Clausen
Second, Can you measure the length of your pipe on the Rossi engine and give me some dimensions. Let me know the starting and ending points and if you are measuring the outside radius, inside or on the centerline.
Second, Can you measure the length of your pipe on the Rossi engine and give me some dimensions. Let me know the starting and ending points and if you are measuring the outside radius, inside or on the centerline.
I missed this. What measurement is it that you need? I'm not quite clear.
Just so you know, the header pipe being used is a Mac's long with an extension between the exhaust flange and he header flange (~1/2") to put it at the right draft below the fuse. The pipe will be a Mac's long stroke 10 cc quiet pipe. The header hasn't been cut yet to tune for the smaller, probably 11" x 7-1/2", props that will be used. A good average mount point for the pipe is about half way down the wing chord. Usually just along where the fuse side is on the top side of the wing. The header angles up and in slightly due to the nose ring side and down thrust but it's not a big issue.
David.
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RE: .60 size Pattern Tiporare Build
David, I am asking for the length of the header from the engine to where the first high point on the pipe. I want to be close on the first cut if I can.
Jim
Jim