grant118

My Feedback: (26)

This is the start of a ZippKits build thread for the thunder boat Rockett kit from Zippkits. I will walk through the build with photos and the methods that I used to build it. I will be using ZippKits Hardware and a box stock Zenoah G260. Please give me feedback. Thanks! [8D]

grant118

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My experience is with building giant scale warbirds so I was pleasantly surprised when I opend the box and found a nice spiral bound build manual and router cut 1/8" and 1/4" ply and 1/8" liteply parts. Also included was a nice epoxy/glass cowl and turn fin with hardware and ply radio box (need to build).

grant118

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Here are some of the sheets before I cut out the parts. This build looks like it will go quickly because of the low parts count.

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

I started cutting everything out so I can begin assembly. Make sure to mark the left and right side of all parts as this hull is not symmetrical. I also sourced a 3/4" ply building board, 10" wide from Lowes to use in the build process. The Hydro tunnel bottom (1/8" ply) has slots that match up with tabs on the bottom of the formers that square everything up when you glue and weigh it down on the 10" wide building board.

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

I fit the first three formers onto the stringers. I lightly Ca'd them in place untill I get them lined up with the floor and can use epoxy. Do not glue the 3rd former (1/4" thick) to the bottom of the boat as this will need to flex slightly to fit the engine railes in place. With the tab and notch construction, the engine rails snap in place and self align to give you 5" spacing for the engine mount. Also don't glue the center part of former two to the bottom as you will finish cutting out the center to make room for the engine rails. I also mounted the 6th former (at transom) to the bottom. It is important to get this former square to bottom (right angle) Also add the gusset to this former.

grant118

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Once former 6 is glued to the floor, you can proceed with placing the floor on the 10" wide building board and adding the other formers and gluing them to the sides and floor. Then you can finish the cut out in the former to accept the engine rails

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

Now you can place a 3/4" thick block under the bottom at former 1 to align the bottom with former 1 and the stringer sides. Glue in the front doubler to the bottom and side and weigh down the bottom to keep it flat.

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

Now you can add the engine rails. This design is great as the parts 'snap' in place by flexing former three to fit the tab from the rail into the slot. Epoxy everything togeter and let it dry several hours while being weighed down on the building board.

MrMikeG

My mate built one and it is wicked fast! Don't try and skimp on the epoxy, make sure you give the seems a nice radius of glue and filler.

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

Good tip thanks!! The instructions say to ca the pieces together but I will make sure I use 30 minute epoxy on all the joints.

grant118

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Make sure when you add the turn fin doubler, it goes on the right side front of the doubler (inside the sponson). The way the holes are cut, it only lines up one way with the holes in former 3. I used epoxy to hold the t-nuts in place as you can't get to them once the sponson is sealed.[8D]

racer504

My Feedback: (2)

I would recommend that the blind nuts be installed before the plate is glued to the former. On mine installing them afterwards caused the former to twist slightly.

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

Good idea. I glued the doubler to the former before adding it to the stringers so you can weigh it down flat and also use the screws to pull the t-nuts into the wood. The main thing is to fit the doubler to the former correctly as it only goes on one way for the holes to line up.

zztinker

Looks like a great kit, how do I get one? Everytime I go to zippkits there out of stock.

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

I am not sure. I bought my kit in May 2011. It looks like they are out of most of the gas kits. This kit is really nice and simple to build. Only 6 bulkheads that 'key' into the bottom squaring up everything nicely. Low part count, you will like it. The cowl/top is epoxy glass also which makes it easy to sand and finish. they also have nice hardware. They now sell a complete hardware package to finish the boat. I hope mine runs at least half as good as Mart's when finished.
chris

jvdd

Before you put the deck on pack her out with floaties.
I used the stuff from computer monitors,it's like pool noodle just square.
I hope you have as much fun building it as I did and she goes like a dream.

Joe Petro

My Feedback: (1)

The issue with the Thunderboats being out of stock has to do with the cowlings.
We are down to one cowl maker (Phil Thomas) and he simply cannot keep up with demand.

Since the kits include an epoxy glass cowling, when we are out of cowlings, we are out of kits.
All of the Thunderboats use the same cowling so they are out of stock a lot.

If you are interested in one of the kits, send us an email and ask to be notified when they are available.
We cannot hold any kits, but we will notify you as soon as we have some in stock.

We have just finished a new cowl plug and are having new molds made so that we can increase production of these fast moving items.


Thanks,

Joe

mistycreekboats

My Feedback: (1)

Have fun Nice build u have ........

racejunkie538

Looking good Grant. I can tell you it is realy easy build. It was my 1st project after 15 years and I did enjoy building this very much.

I give mine the Miss Madison look, hope to run it this spring.

Keep up the good job.

Regards Marc

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

Thanks for all the comments. Very helpful. I will post more info tomorrow. going together quickly. Just make sure you have a big roll of masking tape to hold the bottom and decking down as the epoxy dries.
chris

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

I then turned the boat over and installed the sponson chines on the bottom and side. They fit into slots cut in the formers. I glued them in with CA and then epoxy. Make sure former #3 (1/4" thick) is square with the side of the boat before adding glue to the joint.

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

Next step is to add the non trip sides to the blukheads and chines. Block sand everything so the sides and bottom will sit square. Coat the chines with epoxy and add the sponson sides. This is where you will need a bunch of masking tape to hold eveyrthing down untill it dries. Then block sand the side sheeting flat and add the bottom sponson sheeting. I used my electric planer and sandling bar to square up everything. I then added the bottom sheet keeping it flush with the sponson transom and the inside tunnel. I taped it down then flipped the boat back over on my flat building board. Add a 3/4" block under the transom and weigh everything down to keep the sponson bottoms square and not indue any warp [8D]

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

Hi All, I got all the sheeting finished and moving on to finishing this thing. Traveling right now but will post more pics this weekend.[8D]