Hwa224

Handsome Tim,

That is one seriously HANDSOME looking LB. I love the pics. I find that the Gold LB looks even better with stock tires and wheels but in BLACK, which is what I'm currently running, anything but those matching gold edition rims. I'm digging the mounts.

Even after 3 months of owning it, dealing with all of its issues and such, I LOVE my LB, and it looks like you won't be having any buyer's remorse either.

Today I became convinced that the funnest surface to bash around an LB is a dusty asphalt surface or parking lot, as the LB never flips over, the rooster trails of dirt that's kicked up makes the LB look 1:1 scale in drive, and the fact that donuts are possible. Not to mention I love the tire noise that the LB makes.

How does the differential grease work for you?

I'm currently considering adopting the wheeliebar mod introduced by one of the members here - the mod using the metal ruler. But I'm barely sure where to start.

Timmy2Tracks

Thanks Hwa,

Hwa224

I think I should try some of that diff grease considering that I now have ceramic grease lubing the gears and I didn't realize it at first, but on dustier surfaces, my LB tends to spin out a lot. I'd just hate to rebuild the gearbox yet again. Also, I'm afraid the grease will seep onto the motor mount and then into the motor, which would be bad for it for obvious reasons. But I'll consider it. Controling the tendency to spin-out is fun to an extent, but can be tedious after a while.

Anyway, I just painted the my LB bumper gold and reinstalled it:

Bootnut

Got a set of aluminum wheels in the post. Just plain silver ones thought i way as well pimp my truck a bit

lunchie

HI ALL! just bought a luchbox for my son (and me!)

its been a few years out of the sport. my last RC car was LOSI JRX2!

just a few questions on building up the lunchie...

What servo to use??? theres a million different ones.. Maybe a Hitec HS-635HB?? anything better bang for buck? would my old futaba reciever handle a more powerful servo than the standard futaba one? i will be using the ESC in the kit,what is the BEC voltage out of this?

What bearings do you use?? looking at some duratrax lxd125 at tower??

Are the<pre>DuraTrax NiMH 7.2V 3000mAh Onyx batteries any good?its going to be a pretty standard build but i wil add a wheelie bar brace, rear shock tower supports, oil shocks, body mount reinforce.any other links to parts such as the hex adaptors/HPI wheels etc would be great...I'd like to get everything from one place so overseas shipping is minimised..</pre>

lunchie

well after a quick measure up of the fornt end it seems the 85mm shocks will be too long and 75mm is the best bet..

any suggestions?
i just bought a heap of bits for chassis strengthening (du bro ball ends and 3mm stainless rod for strutt and rear end and wheelie bar braces.

just need to get these shocks sorted...

any suggestions?

Bootnut

I use 85mm shocks all round on my trucks, i do want to change the 3rd shock mod to a shorter one, but for now im happy with it, it's never gonna win any races but is fun for bashing about. You're not the first to say they are too long, i just dont think it makes much difference for my useage.

Timmy2Tracks

I used 80mm shocks on mine and they are too short, especailly in the front. I use these 90mm units...

http://store.rc4wd.com/Dual-Spring-9...cks_p_879.html

You can get soft or firm springs, delrin sliders, and they are threaded so you can adjust the ride height...

Hwa224

I beg to differ!

I had shocks that were 85mm (center hole to center hole) and those were too long. In fact, as low as the front arms can go, that's how long 85 mm is.

In the rear, 85mm is not too bad if you have the stock tires. But if you go back a page, you'll see pics of my LB with the Jato tires and 85 mm shocks in the back. What do you notice? They're too long. I didn't realize how long they were until I looked underneath and noticed the awful angle of the gearbox in relation to the chassis. The gearbox got scraped up due to that angle combined with the smaller tires.

- So, 85mm is not only too long for the front, it's too long for the back.

I recommend 80mm. 80mm is perfect for the back, and just a touch too long for the front, judging by the camber of the front wheels. But it's pretty much where it should be.

I suspect all the differences in opinion come down to differences in where the measurements of the shocks are being taken. All of my measurements above are center eyelet-to-center eyelet and not the very tip of a shock to the very bottom of a shock.

LBXnut

Question(s) for Timmy2Tracks,

Where did you get your Aluminum 1.9 Wheels and what is the part number? I've been looking for a nice set for mine as well. Second, the Junfac aluminum front upright/steering arms. Did they come with the wheel axles installed or did you have to remove them from the stock plastic and install into the aluminum? If so how did you do it, hand press?

lunchie

I am looking at some 78mm integy shocks but they have a reservoir on them... Anyone know if you can run them without reservoir??

Hwa224

I don't know about reservoir, but 78mm is the perfect length (eyelet to eyelet, right?).

I've been running my Baldre a lot lately and finally got back to the Lunchbox and what I notice is how disproportionately tall the LB is, even with the smaller Jato tires. So I'd definitely go for the 78mm and wish I had.

I'm now part of the Brushless LB club! I took the Ezrun 60amp 8.5t 4000kv combo from the Baldre and placed it into the LB and what I notice is that it's much much faster than the 13t Venom - pretty much as fast as any video I've seen of the LB. But it's not insanely fast. The LB is still controllable, albeit, tip-overs are easy to incite but at the same time they are not difficult to avoid. The key thing is to change the throttle response rate wayyy back. Otherwise haphazard wheelies happen all the time. Which is not very fun especially considering that such wheelies can tear up the Parma LB shell from behind.

I'm running the brushless system with NimH batteries. What I get is a much much faster motor and that is much much more effecient = much more speed with much much longer battery life. I'm not sure how much longer, but my Venom 13t motor setup definitely would not have made it through the bashing session I put the LB through earlier tonight.

lunchie

my biggest concern with the shorter 78mm shocks is the lack of travel. its the travel thats most important.
the problem i see with using the 85mm shocks is that if you pack them down shorter, you only end up with about 1/2" of travel.
at least the 78mm will retain a bit more travel than a shimmed 85mm one. i will probably run 85mm in the rear though.

whats the stock travel of a standard friction damper??
hopefully my du bro ball ends and bearings will arrive tomorrow so i can make up the braces and assemble the gearbox.

Timmy2Tracks

Scratch2k

Those allow wheels look fantastic but the cost is a bit high for anything but a shelf queen Lunchbox (which IMHO is a travesty!)

My nephew was driving my Lunchbox and the hub on the front wheel sheered off completely, leaving the hub still attached to the axle and the tyre and what was left of the wheel spinning down the street, it was quite a sight but I think I reacted badly, he didn't want to drive it after that

I managed to glue it back together but I'm not sure how long it will last so I'm looking for a way to replace the wheels and tyres with something better, I found these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9335442-Tami...#ht_500wt_1306

but don't want to stick with the standard LB tyres, I figure I may as well upgrade if I can. Is there some way to set up the LB so it will take normal hex wheels (from a 1/8th scale buggy/truggy) or has anyone else been able to fit any other types of wheel/tyre combo without any mods at all?

lunchie

Holy VW camber Batman!
I think 85 rear and 78-80 fronts is the way to go. I have a set of both coming so will mix and match them, what I dont use eill go on my jrx2 basher.

Hwa224

85mm in the rear is simply too long. Go back a page and look at the pictures of my LB with the Jatos wheels and purple alloy shocks on. They are hideously long and they create a bad angle with the chassis because they're too long.

Scratch2k, you can use HPI adapters to fit wheels that use 12mm hex. You'll have to cut the tip off, though. You'll also need to buy a collar adapter set for the wheels that have the bearings in the front to properly space them out. Even with those collars, with my Traxxas Jatos in the front, I had to use a parcticular washer to remove any play in the wheels.

Timmy2tracks, I love the purple Box. Must be the girlfriend's box or daughter's? Looks great, but I fear those ornaments won't last long.

Timmy2Tracks

Holy Camber is right! I prefer to have the suspension soft, and sit with a bit of sag. The truck never sits as high as it is in the pictures normally, unless in the air. This way there is up and down movement, and with the threaded shocks, you can adjust exactly where the truck will "sit" when driving. So, I prefer to have the suspension be able to travel it's full travel. Also, with those front 80mm units, look at the dirt marks on the front tires, the truck rode on the inside of the tire only, as the suspension could not go high enough to let the tire ride "flat" or even touch the outside part. And when the suspension did compress, the tires were just rubbing the front bumper.

Scratch2k

Thanks for the reply.

Do you mean these?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...b-Set-Purple-4

I can't find anything resembling a collar adapter and I think I'm having trouble conceptualizing what they would actually be, a hex shape with space at the center to fit the bearings and some way to fix them to the existing axle/hub? Could you possibly post a picture?

EDIT: Also found these and I can see how they would fit on the rear, but how would they work on the front? or would I use those to fit 12mm hex wheels to the rear and still have to find some wheels which allow fitment of the bearings to slot directly on to the front.

Hwa224

No I meant these:

Rear hex:

HPI6120

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i01_details

Front collars:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

B000BLM3ZI


-

The HPI rear hex adapters has a tip or something that probably sticks into HPI wheels. I had to cut those tips off to fit them into the Traxxas wheels. Easy to do.

Scratch2k

Awesome, thanks for the links, that helps me A LOT. I assume that using those front adapters means I can use any 12mm Hex type wheel and just re-use the bearings from the existing Lunchbox wheels, correct?

Hwa224

No the front collars are to be used on wheels that have the same 5x11x4mm bearings that the LB has in the front, the same size bearings used in Traxxas wheels (and many others) on vehicles that aren't 4wd.The reason the collars are needed is to correct or adjust for the wheel offset.

In each of those sets that I posted, there's only one type of adapter and collar that you'll need. Meaning, the remaining parts don't apply. You'll know which ones you'll need as soon as you see them. That's how obvious they are.

Scratch2k

OK, I understand, and I think I know where I've been having trouble, i'm finding it difficult to find wheels which accept the 5x11x4m bearings because most of the 2WD vehicles I've seen still use a hex shaped hub on the front (which spins feely around bearings connected to the steering knuckle).

You say you're using Traxxas wheels, could you let me know whicih specific ones go together with the adapters you use?

lunchie

hey just a question..

what are the most commonly broken parts on the lunchbox??? (apart from body mounts of course)

thinking i might buy a few spares... maybe suspension arms???

Scratch2k

I've never broken a suspension arm, but I have broken:

1) all body mounts - replaced with lots of epoxy glue and aluminium mounts
2) lost the hub on one wheel, it sheered clean off (and it was a front wheel so it wasn't drive/power related) - also glued
3) window plastic all smashed - left it out.
4) body A frame broken at the front on the left and right side of the front window - glue and a trimmed coat hanger fixed this
5) Bathtub where the body mount screws in snapped, again, lots of glue.

That's pretty much it and all of those (except the wheel and bathtub) are cosmetic things or easily fixed with epoxy, no real need to buy any spares in my experience.