Tony Hallo

I set the hot wire 3/8" off the top of the bench and pushed the rib blanks through to reduce the thickness to 3/8". The green colored foam cuts about the same as the blue and pink, this is a good thing.

Tony Hallo

The wing sockets will be about 14" long when finished and since the ribs are slighly less than 4" on center, I needed to mount the 4 inner most ribs for each wing and cut for the wing tube. Scrap foam is cut to space the top side of the rib blanks and keep them at 90 degrees to the jig.
I close the entry saw cut slot with scrap piece of wood, this makes going around the template easier since there's no worry about the wire getting stuck in the slot. I start by cutting down through the slot and let the wire rest on the template, turn the wireoff, close the tops then finish cutting the holes.

Tony Hallo

The sockets are fitted with stops, these are scap 1/4 lite ply. Both sockets are glued in together with the tube inserted to keep everthing in alignment. I use polyurethane type glue for this.

Tony Hallo

The remainder of the rib blanks are installed. I like to install foam on the leading and trailing edges for gluing the sheeting. I cut the ribs with hot wire and attach the edges with 3M 77 contact cement. You can see the Formica templates held in place with clamps that guides the wire .

Tony Hallo

I like to use the two template method, the templates are screwed to the end parting strips with No. 2 servo screws, the cordless screwdriver makes short work of this. I pre-drill the holes in both templates together to keep the airfoil aligned. My wifeworks the short side while I work the long side, I call out numbers and she follows along.

Tony Hallo

The groove for the spar is cut in the same manner. The main spars are 1/4" X3/8" spruce per plan. I've used 1/4" square onsimilar sized models, this airfoil is slightly thinner than most so I stuck with the larger size spar. The spars are glued in, I used epoxythickened with microfibers for the tube to spar joint and polyurethane for the remainder of the ribs.

Tony Hallo

Time to sheet. I cut the root caps before hand by tracing the rib outline. The sheeting will overlap the cap rather than just end glue' the caps are 1/8" liteply. I like to prebend the leading edge sheeting before gluing. I have found that if I glue when the sheeting is very wet, it tends to suck down between the ribs when it dries out. The foam will be cut to zero thickness at trailing edge, to stiffen the trailing edge 1/64" strips of plywood are laminated between the foam and the sheeting, this will provide a 3/16" thick traing edge.

Tony Hallo

The sheeting is weighted and clamped while the glue cures/dries. For foam to wood joints I use polyurethane glue and Titebond wood glue for sheeting to spars, thiscontrols the glue from foaming where the covering will be.

Tony Hallo

I'm toying with the ideaof installing scale like hinges rather than the standard industry type. I spent some time building a prototype while glue was curing. 1/4" liteply and brass tubing (3/16" for bearings and 5/32" for shaft). Still some work to do but I think I like it. I've found photos with 2 and 3 hinges installed in each aileron, I believe I will use three. A 4-40 screw and locknut hold everything together.

Tony Hallo

Let's hope 2012 brings a great flying year. My club is in turmoil, yesterday I received a letter stating that our president was replaced by a coup. I got two applications for the same club, the new organization even has lawyer! I hope we can get this worked out before flying season begins here in western PA.
Back to building. The wings are cut from the jig after the top sheeting is completed. The wing tube is too low to allow for the 1/4"X3/8" lower spar, the airfoil on the plans is different from what I have used in the past in that the thickest part of the airfoil is near 50% cord, this contributed to the problem. I have some 1/8"X3/4" spruce stock from a previous project, same cross section so that's what bottom spars will be. Once the spars are fitted, the root cap is cut and glued on. I use a sharpened tube to cut hole for the servo wire tube.

dm8221

Hello Tony
Have been enjoying your thread lots of information on wing construction with excellent photos and comments.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Don

Tony Hallo

Thanks dm8221. Progress is moving slowly. Added 1/2" balsa leading edge and wing tips. The leading edge gets about 2" radius so a balsa filler blocked is added to round the tip. The leading edge and tip are rough planed and sanded to shape. A Hobbico power plane does speed the process and makes less dust than sanding.

Tony Hallo

The trailing edge for the aileron cutout is laid out and first cut a Exacto knive then sawed using a flush cut saw, the saw is only 1/32" thick. I'm trying something new here that I read on a pattern building site. The aileron is left on to aid finshing the trailing edge before the aileron is cut free. There's not much sheeting left to sand the trailing edge to, I think this will work nice. Finally 1/4" training edge is glued onto the wing.

Tony Hallo

The aileron hingingbegins. The stationary side is 1/4 AC ply with aluminum bearing CA'd in. I decided to use 3.5mm carbon fiber tube for the axle.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the detailed descriptions Tony. Your posts always give me something to think about.
John

Tony Hallo

Thanks for the compliment John.
Here the stationary halves are epoxied in, the brown tube on the top of wing is 3/32" balsa wetted and wrapped around a 1 1/8" tube with an Ace bandage. You can see the results on the following photo.

Tony Hallo

I only had one piece that I could bend on such a tight radius, I broke several more pieces trying and gave up.

itizme_ca

I have no choice but to follow this thread
Cheers
Steve

BTW, you can get the DR107 for your Clearview, look in Kens pages.

BillyJ

Looks great Tony keep up the good work!! almost done with 38% C Eagle , Should be ready to fly next week ... keep up the post.

Tony Hallo

Nice.
Power? Do youhave a source for the two place canopy? Where did you get the decals? Like the Glassair, that's another favoite of mine.

I'm currently building second aileron, more to come.

BillyJ

Canopy from Bob Dively kits , the Byron canopy to small ! Byron Glasair almost done . Do you think I can get away with 30 oz of smoke behind cg? it is balanced perfect with3w-100 now.. will let you know how it flys by next week ! Stickers from Kirby Custom.

Tony Hallo

Mine is balanced to the cg on the plans and is too taill heavy for my liking. I pulls hard to the gear as the speed bleeds off near the top of and up line. I tried to change the top wing incidence and add decalageto the extent possible but never really changed the flying characteristics much. I plan a rework in the future that's why I'm looking for the canopy. I moved but 5945 rudder servos from the rear and replaced withone 5955, again minor improvement.

Tony Hallo

I made aluminum flange bearings for the aileron hinges, the bearings are glued in so that they will not fall out if the glue joints fail.

Tony Hallo

For the linkage, I purchased horns from Aeroworks for the controls. I really do like them. Access to servo in future will require cutting the covering away. This is wing number one. I ended up sheeting the curved leading edge with 1/8" x 3/16" strips cut with a Master Air Screw balsa stripper rather the prebend piece. It was contest balsa and was just too soft. The wing trailing edge is capped with 3/16" square stickson top theand bottom to hind the ai;eron leading edge.
The wing tip at the leading edge is rounded per plans. The cap is also carved and sanded round to the extent possible.
I'm thinkingI willre-visit the elevator servos and try to hide them inside the fuselage rather than surface mount.

bmosinski

My Feedback: (6)

Where did this thread go or has there been a break in the action. I am looking for a copy of these plans if anyone has a copy or can tell where to find a set.