DirtyBird69

I'm sick to death of how easy the factory screws strip out on my HL's...even when I do everything right they still start to strip after a couple of uses.Anyways I was wondering if anybody has found better quality aftermarket? Also if anybody has some GOOD spares they'd be willingto part with...... I got cash lol. I don't need a full set(would like it though), just a couple of each(motor mounts/gear box/body mounts)..just the typical stuff you might have to work on from time to time...

briz

I dont have any...but I have heard that you can use 5min JB weld to fill the stripped out hole...thread the screw in(coated in light oil)...let harden and remove.Supposedly, you will be left with a new...threaded screw hole.
I have not tried it...yet... but I have heard it works

AFV432

sometimes the post cracks especially around the gearbox mounts?

ive used some brass tube that is snug over the post and cut to size slide into place and hopefully no more cracked or broken posts

Briz's JB weld tip sounds like a good one

Airbrushler

Sounds like a good idea AFV
my Pershing is the only one so far that most of the posts cracked makes for getting the top hull secured now i have something to try
this is why the front seem shows cause the posts are cracked

AFV432

Thats a smart looking pershing Airbrushler glad to help


Rob

Glen B

I have done the same thing using aluminum arrow shaft material, it works quite well, too.

"Bushing" stripped threaded holes with adheasives, as described, works, too.

DirtyBird69

those are all goodideas, but I was referring to the "heads" stripping out on the screws more then anything. If you ever have to do any kind of plastic repair, this is the best stuff on the market...Ive been using it for years on just about everything:

http://plastex.net/

takevin

Thats pretty cool, although the need to advertise better by having some normal size pics so you dont need a magnifying glass, and need up to that low res video jeez. I'll have to pick some of that up.

DirtyBird69

Yeah I agree, but I will tell you this stuff is incredible. I've actualling made new tabs for my mortorcycle fairing that weremissing(itcomes with a special moldable clay thet you can fill in to make knew parts)and when my bike got knocked over in a parking lot the fairing broke everywhere on that same side,BUT where I made the repairs lol..and it works on just about every kind of plastic other then the flexible types, and is sandable and paintable...Ity's like a glue and a filler all in one!.... Plus they take Pay-Pal....

MAUS45

I have used ABS glue, Plastruct is the brand I use, to repair cracked posts. I still like the brass tubing fix so I will go back and reinforce what I already did with the post I repaired. BELT AND SUSPENDERS so to speak. I have used JB weld to fix stripped out screw holes. As for the screws them selves just go to your local hardware store. I use ACE they have stainless steel replacement screws that would work to replace the HL screws.

DirtyBird69

I'll check out ACE..I was planning on installing magnets on the body post so as to eliminate the body screws all together...

MAUS45

I was thinking about magnets as well. Not sure how to get them level, maybe miliput?

dyeager535

My Feedback: (1)

While the threads aren't the same for the plastic screws, is there any chance screws used for computers will work?

I've had the same problem, if the screw takes any force to install, eventually the head just wears out. Luckily I've got a few spare screws so I've just thrown away the old ones, but a source for good screws of the same design would be nice.

If these type of screws have a particular name, perhaps we could find a source...any ideas? Are they specific to the HL's, or most any chinese assembled stuff?

fordfan1013

well u can just find out what size they are and makem or go around to stores looking for that size of screw............ around this area we got all kinds of different screws and anything O.o well i guess thats wat happens when theres mostly farming community

fordfan1013

its called all chinese stuff xD

rampa203

I was going to try magnets as well. I bought some magnets that fit perfectly inside the recessed part of the post. On the opposite post I was planning to use flat head screws and lower the post to account for the thickness of the magnet. The other option I was thinking of was a spring-loaded tab, similar to what I think the metal hulls use.

karel47

i just cut off all the fasteners and mod it like tamiya fastening its upper body's , works well for me

the upperbody slides into and get fastening at one screw on the back

very easy to manage

DirtyBird69

you can find the magnets on eBay...any size you can imagine: http://www.ebay.com/itm/270913477681...84.m1438.l2649

I've been thinking about sourcing all the correct screws for HL's(they all run the same sizes) and getting them in stainless steel hex heads..if I can I'll sell complete screw sets(including gearbox and motor screws)and I bet they wouldn't cost more then $15-$20 if anybody would be interested(I'm already sourcing suppliers)?? Let me know if you'd like them so I can judge the market...

rampa203

I definitely think that stainless steel is the way to go - they are very hard to strip. I've bought tons of stainless steel metric hex head (socket) screws at Bolt Depot http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_sock...ucts.aspx?nv=l. They are priced well and ship right away, but the minimum shipping cost is about $8.00 I think, so you shouldn't buy just a few screws at a time. Each screw size is packed in a clearly labeled zip lock bag. When you consider the work of counting the screws, bagging and labeling them, and that that each screw might only cost $0.05, the total cost including shipping is very reasonable.

whiteknight1066

You don't even need to hit up Bolt Depot. Just go to your local R/C shop and look at the fasteners. Any size you could want, SAEand SI. Just do the JB Kwik job on the threads and poof, no more hastles! As for magnets, Itried the replace-the-post route. Anyone done this with success? Because lemme tell ya, getting the screw heads to line up correctly and be set at the correct depth is murder! An amazing pain in the butt. However, I've had more success with building an angle bracket out of plastic, mounting the magnet(s) in that, plastic-gluing (then JB Kwik-ing) the plasic mounts to the hull, then gluing/screwing steel strip or angle stock to the lower hull. Works like a charm, and EASY to line up-just glue one set on, magnet the other part on the glued brackets, and tape the hull together (with the turret off). Slather this second set with JB Kwik and poke into place, and you've got PERFECTLYaligned magnetic brackets! My only caution is don't use too many magnets, and don't use magnet-to-magnet setups-they're too powerful and will rip the brackets off the hull! Good luck,

Andrew