kirtsm

Thanks for the help Karl, I'll have to study the plans and work that out. I've done similar to reinforce gear mounting on other models.

Kirt

spitfire66

Hello,

I recently purchased the Top Flite Giant Mustang at a swap meet complete with retracts and got a great deal. However, it is missing the control surfaces. I am lead to believe the only way to really get all the parts and get things built is to buy some plans, get the part numbers, and make the order. Does anybody have any plans that they would be willing to sell? I am needing to build the flaps, ailerons, elevators, and tail surfaces.

Also I am going to be removing the canopy so that I can detail the cockpit and add a pilot. I am also going to attempt a homemade sliding canopy. My plan is to buy some canopy rails and use some epoxy to glue aluminum to the canopy to form a frame. I don't really care to have the slider servo driven. I just want to be able to open and close it by hand. I was on the top flite website and the kit canopy is $33. The arf canopy is $7.50 on towerhobbies. Do you think there would be any difference in the two? Thanks,

Shannon

kgwomack

My Feedback: (1)

What version did you get? ARF or Kit? There are alot of differences between the two. The canopies is just one of the things different. They are different lengths.

Karl

spitfire66

I bought the kit version. The previous owner lost all the control surfaces and plans before completion. Thank you for the canopy info.

RACE 66

Sundance: I too have a TF P-51 along with a brand new ST 60 twin I purchased several years ago on e bay. Nope, it's not built yet. I am still getting the "right looking cowling" for it. It won't be started for a bit yet. I've got all the retracts for it and the support accessories.

Are you aware the the fuel distribution problems with the rear cylinder running hot on the Super Tigre. There is a fix for it though. Give me a shout back and let me known what's going on with yours. I too thought about building a custom exhaust system for realism.

My uncle flew a P-51 during the war and I will be replicating it in his colors and all.

Mike Miller - Bellingham,Wa.

spitfire66

Well I started working on my p-51 tonight. I first removed the canopy as it was in bad shape and I couldn't see through it. I found that there was monocote underneath the canopy, with filler, primer, and paint on top of that. I am not sure why monocote was used, but it came off okay. As I start to work my way back there was no more monocote and just paint the rest of the way back. I sanded the tail in a couple spots and got it down to grey primer pretty quick. It was done different than the fuselage.

The red stuff shown in the picture below where the canopy should be flakes off, chips, and breaks easy. I am not sure what it is, but I am going to take my orbital sander to it tomorro or Wednesday and start sanding the fuselage. I was wanting to glass an airplane, but since this one is painted and primered already I think I will just strip it down, primer and paint. I have absolutely no wood working experience, as you can probably tell I don't even know what most this stuff is I am working with. I will learn as I go and I would appreciate any advice at any point in time. If anyone has any suggestions about how to get the existing paint and primer off please speak up. My goal is to get everything down to bare wood where possible, or down to the primer. Today was a slow start.

spitfire66

To be clear, I am working on the kit version. It seems I am not getting much attention on the kit build in the giant aircraft forum so I have been double posting as to get information quicker and ideas. Sorry if that bothers any of you!

After doing some work tonight I found that the builder used monocote under the whole length of the canopy, and then put filler and paint on top of that. This cause the filler to crack and leave the outline of front of the canopy all the way around. This was time consuming and a pain to get off the plane.

While on a break from sanding I measured from the firewall to the front of the built up cowling (the spinner ring) and noticed it only measure 7 3/8" . I looked at my plans and this is clearly wrong as it is to measure 8 1/8". Everything else looked correct. The lenth of the cowling pieces were simply too short. My solution to the problem is to cut off the front and built the firewall up to accept the Fiberglass specialties ARF/RTC full cowling. I don't foresee this being a big deal.

My plans for the next couple weeks is to build the control surfaces when the parts arrive in the mail. Finish sanding, filling, and priming. I really feel that I should pin the firewall using some short cut dowl rods. I have never had an engine this big and I think while i am doing all this work it would be easy and added strenth. Has anyone else done this???

Depending how things are going I am looking into making a manual sliding canopy. I have seen some post on how to do it and I think I will try it. I will be sure to post progress.

I am going to use the DLE 55 when it comes time to buying an engine. Are most of you guys using 3" standoffs or the stock ones? I am trying to figure out if its best to build an engine box with the stock standoffs or to use 3" standoffs and some plywood spacers. I have been going through the threads and haven't seen too many pics of engine installations. I would sure like some insight. Thanks!

picard1

My Feedback: (2)

Spitfire,
I always pin the firewall. Use to use wood dowels, but as of late I use left over carbon fiber rods. I seem to have a collection of left over short pieces that come in handy. As to the standoffs, I will have to let someone else help you since I am going electric. I fth e firewall is in the correct place you could simply cut off the "built up cowling and replace it with a fiberglass after market unit.


Mike

spitfire66

Well after doing a lot of sanding and looking around on the airplane I found some things I didn't really like that prompted further investigation. There were no hardpoints installed behind the stablilizer trailing edges, the firewall didn't look like it was installed to soundly for my likeing, and no triangle stock anywhere. After looking at the wing I started to get uncomfortable with the mounts, and I am not sure how to check to make sure everything is square. It looks close, but like I said I am not a very good carpenter or a builder and just know how to do some simple things. I have decided to send all the untouched parts I ordered back to Top Flite and I will be buying the rtc version. It sucks, but I just don't want to put a bunch of money in a plane I'm not too comfortable with. Maybe I will find a builder in the Kansas City area that would want to take it on as there own project, but like I said I'm in over my head. Oh well, I'm still good on my budget as I got the plane and retracts for $125. After my returns I will probably only have lost about $40.

picard1

My Feedback: (2)

Sounds like a wise decision if your not comfortable with making the appropriate changes. It is always best to start from scratch than fix others mistakes....

spitfire66

Lesson learned. I thought I would take a look at it. Thought it was okay, and then ordered parts, parts, and more parts. Man was that a dumb idea!

Leroy Gardner

spitfire66 check this out,mounted engine and mount construction, cowling cut out not a hack jobLeroy

DLE55 w/J-tech muffler

Had go look for mount

flyingp51

I wonder if you could send me a copy of your pattern of the moter mount and how the DLE mounts up to the fire wall? P.S. My email is [email protected] if you would like,it would be appresioated.

Dalemaster

I'm about 70% done with mine and I can't for the life of me find a good 4 blade vp prop any info?

spitfire66

Hello Dale,

The only 4 blade prop that I have seen and been intereseted in is the P-51 Biela 4 blade sold by troybuiltmodels. I haven't found anybody who has used or use this prop and would like to know how well it works with a DLE 55 as that is what I'll be using. I don't remember what you will be using for power, but I'd sure like to know how well this prop works. It is a bit pricey though! I will start with a 2 blade to get everything figured out and setup before I throw $99 down. Good luck on your search.


http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/BP198-4.html

auggiedog

has any one heard of someone flying this p-51 using a saito 2.2 four stroker with a20x8 prop. don'tknow if it is enough power sure would sound good. i would like to put the saito in a top flight p-51 arf!!

ForcesR

Here you are, a P-51D Mustang, 22.5lbs powered by a Saito 4 cycle gas FG-36. I have also seen a YA Spitfire, 24 +lbs powered by the FG-36. Itflew scale speedswithout any problems, just don't expect to makea completedlarge loop and the FG-36 does sound awesome.

Roger

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

The 2.2 four strokes would probably be better suited for the Hangar 9 150 size Mustang ARF as it is a tad smaller and considerably lighter than the Top Flite bird.

nakarinp

Dear all, I would like to share my experience on making this P-51 giant from Topflite but my kit is ARF. I do make the scale muffler by local make.....you can see that it is difference from Keleo creation....it does work well but I do make only 8 real muffler and 4 dummy muffler....Please see pictures...









[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqOX7DDEuGw&feature=plcp[/youtube]

ForcesR

I finally did the maiden flight on my kit built TF P51-D Mustang. The CG is at the recommended location, weight is 22 ½ lbs, power plant is Saito 4 cycle FG-36cc gas engine; prop is the recommended 18 x 8 for break in, rpm is 7600.

The take off run was uneventful; I made sure I had good ground speed before I lifted off at ¾ throttle, then went to full throttle for the climb out and raised the gear. I didn’t require as much right rudder as I was expecting for take off. I climbed to approximately 300 ft and began to trim the aircraft. It took 4 clicks of nose down and 6 clicks of right aileron before she would fly level, hands off.

What really surprised me was when I tested the flaps, ½ to full down; the aircraft didn’t pitch up or down, just flew straight and level. I did a few aileron rolls which were done in typical Mustang fashion. For the remaining 10 minute flight, I just did circuit flying with the throttle set half way between ½ and ¾.

When the timer sounded I lowered the gear, on the down wind leg I lowered the flaps to ½ and on final I went to full flaps and set the throttle at 1/2 for a straight in landing. On landing, she sat down very nicely, the roll out was nice and straight. I wanted to get a second and third flight in, but due to a fairly large air pressure loss with the Robart gear, I didn’t want to risk it. Now I have to chase an air leak, but I am very, very happy with how the TF Mustang reacted and flew.

A few speed freaks at the field said the FG-36 would not have the power to fly the P51. They have since changed their opinion, this was the first large scale TF P51D they have seen fly with the Saito FG-36cc installed. Just for information purposes, the TF build manual recommends a 30cc to 60cc gas engine to power the kit built Mustang.

The Saito gasser provides adequate power for take off and scale flying. The engine worked flawlessly, is a breeze to tune, runs very smoothly and sounds great. Just don’t expect to do a large full loop with the FG-36 installed.

Roger

SportsFans

Outstanding ForcesR! Nice job looks great. Mine is still in the box..just delivered Friday. Did you find your air?

Cheers!

Steve

ForcesR

Good day Steve, thank-you for the compliment; it took me 19 months to complete the build. I only worked on itfrom time to time, which is why the build took so long to complete. The air leak was very easy to locate and fix, there was a piece of dirt in the air filler valve that wouldn't allow the valve to completely close. I removed the dirt, repressurized the system to 110psi and left it overnight.I re-checked the pressure12 hours later and the pressureread 104psi, problem solved, and yahoo.

Roger

piperjon

Hello Guys,

Well now I have the kit to build and will try to scale it as much as I can.

I would like to know if Sierra Giant Scaleare still able to buy the retracts from them. As I live in Australia I always like to knowthe shipping cost so to make sure I have the money to pay. I have emailed them but still no reply. so can any body help me or let me know if they are still able to sully the retracts??

I have contacted some of theguys who are still able to supply items to help thescale look.So if I have any problems I can always read more about the build and get out of trouble.
Cheers guys.
John

v6goose

Hey Jon...

The Sierra's are still available and IMHO the best gear out there.

Darrell is hard to contact via email but will answer the phone... best ask all your questions/place your order there.

Good luck!

Goose

piperjon

Hay thanks Goose,

Ok now i know. I've read the all the info on the build so I really think I'll have no trouble at all. If I do I'll came back and ask.

Cheers
John