CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
02-20-2012, 10:05 AM
#1151
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
Only two cycles? It´s too low isn´t it? Do you think, that it is maximum?
Last weekend I added some more rivets on the fuselage and also on the canopy. It wasn´t easy job, but I think that the result is satisfying.
Next thing is painting. Now it is time for the first layer of the green colour, next will be black for highlighting and again green.
Last weekend I added some more rivets on the fuselage and also on the canopy. It wasn´t easy job, but I think that the result is satisfying.
Next thing is painting. Now it is time for the first layer of the green colour, next will be black for highlighting and again green.
02-22-2012, 08:24 AM
#1152
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
Here are fuselage and wing after the painting by black.
Elevator, fuselage and wing in the last pictures have just been painted by black and las layer of the green.
Elevator, fuselage and wing in the last pictures have just been painted by black and las layer of the green.
02-22-2012, 01:36 PM
#1155
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RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
Prekin the retrcts will cysle 5 times but the last three are slow, to solve the problem I put a larger rebart tank in and then I get 5 completly good cycles with three more that are slow.. So go with a larger tank, Still at 90 - 100 PSI
02-27-2012, 08:42 AM
#1156
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
I hope, that it will be OK.
I have started work at the exhaust. At the first time I wanted to have radial one, but it is difficult. Brass is not very good material for "cold" working, so I decided to make it from the copper parts.
And yesterday I painted inner parts of the flaps and landing gear. I chose some green colour which I have had for long time.
I have started work at the exhaust. At the first time I wanted to have radial one, but it is difficult. Brass is not very good material for "cold" working, so I decided to make it from the copper parts.
And yesterday I painted inner parts of the flaps and landing gear. I chose some green colour which I have had for long time.
02-27-2012, 11:07 PM
#1157
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
Your work looks very nice and I like the idea of your exhaust manifold. I am sorry to tell you that I don't think it will hold together with the type of solder you are using.
I am a plumber by trade and it looks as if you are using a standard low temp antimony solder commonly used for joining low psi and low temp house pipes. You need to be using silver solder or brazing solder...it comes by the stick and not on a roll. It needs the copper to be heated to a bright glowing red to use and does not require any any paste or powder before solder/brazing. You can build the same thing, with the same type fittings, but it will need to be new parts...you can not braze over the parts you have already soldered.
What you have already built may last a few flights using a 2c engine; it will come apart very quickly if used with a 4c engine.
Your solder may be a different alloy in Czech, so check it out well on a test stand before commiting it to the plane...it may hold up as it is.
I am a plumber by trade and it looks as if you are using a standard low temp antimony solder commonly used for joining low psi and low temp house pipes. You need to be using silver solder or brazing solder...it comes by the stick and not on a roll. It needs the copper to be heated to a bright glowing red to use and does not require any any paste or powder before solder/brazing. You can build the same thing, with the same type fittings, but it will need to be new parts...you can not braze over the parts you have already soldered.
What you have already built may last a few flights using a 2c engine; it will come apart very quickly if used with a 4c engine.
Your solder may be a different alloy in Czech, so check it out well on a test stand before commiting it to the plane...it may hold up as it is.
02-27-2012, 11:33 PM
#1158
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
Prekin,
I just noticed that you are planing to use a DLE55 gasser on this plane. I have no experience with the exhaust temps on the 2c gasoline engines and soldered exhausts so you may be fine; Glo-Fuel burns quite a bit hotter than gas.
I would still test it well though!
I just noticed that you are planing to use a DLE55 gasser on this plane. I have no experience with the exhaust temps on the 2c gasoline engines and soldered exhausts so you may be fine; Glo-Fuel burns quite a bit hotter than gas.
I would still test it well though!
02-28-2012, 12:56 AM
#1159
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
Ok, So walts posted his great work on the flaps and got me to thinking....always a dangerous prospect...[&:] I said to myself before starting that this was just going to be a quick build and then enjoy flying it; not spend the entire year building and going crazy on the details. Well, I can see right now that that's not going to happen....not in the company that I find myself in with you guys!
There are so many really great builds and mods from everyone, it just inspires me to put some effort into this one. Anyway, now that the ailerons are done, I have moved on to the flaps.
Here's the goal, and the inspiration to get somewhere close courtesy of walts!
There are so many really great builds and mods from everyone, it just inspires me to put some effort into this one. Anyway, now that the ailerons are done, I have moved on to the flaps.Here's the goal, and the inspiration to get somewhere close courtesy of walts!
02-28-2012, 01:35 AM
#1161
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
My wing is completely stripped and I have the individual halves to work with so this is easier than having to work with a whole wing and trying to preserve the covering.
1. Following the aileron line I cut the bottom of the wing away and removed all of the rib "tails". I also moved the outside "tail" inboard a bitto match up with the super-enlarged 3-views I'm using and to make room for a little bit longer aileron. (I actually cut this out and sized it before doing the aileron and came back to it after finishing the ail. )
2. There was a bit of an overhang of remaining bottom sheeting after the cut but the line was right so I just trimmed the tails back close to the TE spar and then filled between and over them with a couple layers of balsa. this will also give me a nice anchor for the hinge point hinges later.
3. After filling the void I sheeted the entire flap bay with a thin hardwood ply for strentghening and later ease of finishing.
4. Marked the rib locations after muddling out the offsets in the spacing.
5. Carved the ribs from a thin piece of balsa laminated front and back with the same thin ply, again for added strenth and easy finish. Also helped with the drilling of truer holes. Set them in the bay to check the "eyeball" spacing.
6. A close up of the laminate.
7. Lined upon tape for the primer build coat. They have all been dipped in a laquer sanding sealer and fine sanded prior to this so the grain is quite filled; thanks to the hardwood veneer.
8. Just a couple liberal coats on the ribs.
9. I taped off the rib lines and laquer filled the grain in the bay, pulled the tape , sanded and retaped for primer. I want wood to wood contact for gluing. Tedious but worth it. Nice strong glue joint later.
10. pull the tape after prime and give it a light rub down.
11. A bit of rolled up sandpaper to clean the fuzzy edges in the holes.
12. ......and the first rib is glued into place
All of the prep and sanding before assembly should make a nice finish coat without having to try to sand around everything after assembling[&:]
1. Following the aileron line I cut the bottom of the wing away and removed all of the rib "tails". I also moved the outside "tail" inboard a bitto match up with the super-enlarged 3-views I'm using and to make room for a little bit longer aileron. (I actually cut this out and sized it before doing the aileron and came back to it after finishing the ail. )
2. There was a bit of an overhang of remaining bottom sheeting after the cut but the line was right so I just trimmed the tails back close to the TE spar and then filled between and over them with a couple layers of balsa. this will also give me a nice anchor for the hinge point hinges later.
3. After filling the void I sheeted the entire flap bay with a thin hardwood ply for strentghening and later ease of finishing.
4. Marked the rib locations after muddling out the offsets in the spacing.
5. Carved the ribs from a thin piece of balsa laminated front and back with the same thin ply, again for added strenth and easy finish. Also helped with the drilling of truer holes. Set them in the bay to check the "eyeball" spacing.
6. A close up of the laminate.
7. Lined upon tape for the primer build coat. They have all been dipped in a laquer sanding sealer and fine sanded prior to this so the grain is quite filled; thanks to the hardwood veneer.
8. Just a couple liberal coats on the ribs.
9. I taped off the rib lines and laquer filled the grain in the bay, pulled the tape , sanded and retaped for primer. I want wood to wood contact for gluing. Tedious but worth it. Nice strong glue joint later.
10. pull the tape after prime and give it a light rub down.
11. A bit of rolled up sandpaper to clean the fuzzy edges in the holes.
12. ......and the first rib is glued into place
All of the prep and sanding before assembly should make a nice finish coat without having to try to sand around everything after assembling[&:]
02-28-2012, 01:41 AM
#1162
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
ORIGINAL: misha034
frets24, which one is original on those pictures?
frets24, which one is original on those pictures?
The next ones are copies of his pics of the flaps that he did. His looked so nice I decided I had to give a shot at some nice flaps too.
I know, his look great don't they!?!?
02-28-2012, 02:03 AM
#1163
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
The flap itself followed prety much the same way as the flap bay. I framed in the face of the main flap spar so it would have the illusion of being hollow when I drill it later. I also hollowed out 4 holes in the top of the thick balsa strip at the rear before laminating over it for the same effect. A bunch of primer and some silver, then a test fit.
02-28-2012, 02:11 AM
#1164
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RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
OK, you just set a new standard for the flaps... the more I wait to start on mine, the harder it's gonna be for me then[
]
]
02-28-2012, 02:13 AM
#1165
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
Some IJAA semi-gloss wheel well and cockpit green and.......
I know....I'm like way ahead of myself here....the wing hasn't even been glassed yet
Later I'll trim the ends of the flap to match the rest of the ribs. For now they are a support so it lays properly in the bay for when I drill the hinge point holes. I'll Add the internal controll horn and do an internal push rod as well.
Now I need to finish the wheel well, fill the holes in the wing, recut my servo hatches, and start the other wing This is going to be a long build....sometimes I wish I was ready to retire.....I mean I'm ready to retire!!; Just nowhere close to being able too!!!
I know....I'm like way ahead of myself here....the wing hasn't even been glassed yet
Later I'll trim the ends of the flap to match the rest of the ribs. For now they are a support so it lays properly in the bay for when I drill the hinge point holes. I'll Add the internal controll horn and do an internal push rod as well.
Now I need to finish the wheel well, fill the holes in the wing, recut my servo hatches, and start the other wing
This is going to be a long build....sometimes I wish I was ready to retire.....I mean I'm ready to retire!!; Just nowhere close to being able too!!!
02-28-2012, 05:58 AM
#1168
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
ORIGINAL: frets24
Your work looks very nice and I like the idea of your exhaust manifold. I am sorry to tell you that I don't think it will hold together with the type of solder you are using.
I am a plumber by trade and it looks as if you are using a standard low temp antimony solder commonly used for joining low psi and low temp house pipes. You need to be using silver solder or brazing solder...it comes by the stick and not on a roll. It needs the copper to be heated to a bright glowing red to use and does not require any any paste or powder before solder/brazing. You can build the same thing, with the same type fittings, but it will need to be new parts...you can not braze over the parts you have already soldered.
What you have already built may last a few flights using a 2c engine; it will come apart very quickly if used with a 4c engine.
Your solder may be a different alloy in Czech, so check it out well on a test stand before commiting it to the plane...it may hold up as it is.
Your work looks very nice and I like the idea of your exhaust manifold. I am sorry to tell you that I don't think it will hold together with the type of solder you are using.
I am a plumber by trade and it looks as if you are using a standard low temp antimony solder commonly used for joining low psi and low temp house pipes. You need to be using silver solder or brazing solder...it comes by the stick and not on a roll. It needs the copper to be heated to a bright glowing red to use and does not require any any paste or powder before solder/brazing. You can build the same thing, with the same type fittings, but it will need to be new parts...you can not braze over the parts you have already soldered.
What you have already built may last a few flights using a 2c engine; it will come apart very quickly if used with a 4c engine.
Your solder may be a different alloy in Czech, so check it out well on a test stand before commiting it to the plane...it may hold up as it is.
02-28-2012, 08:11 AM
#1170
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
Frets,
thank for your advice. I hope, that my exhaust will be OK. The temperature won´t be very high, because, this exhaust system will be conetct with origin silencer for DLE. Silencer is very important for 2C gas engines, because it helps with increasing power of the engine. Before I instal it into my Zero, I must test it. Maybe I will have negative effects at rpm. If this will be right and reailty I won´t use it.
thank for your advice. I hope, that my exhaust will be OK. The temperature won´t be very high, because, this exhaust system will be conetct with origin silencer for DLE. Silencer is very important for 2C gas engines, because it helps with increasing power of the engine. Before I instal it into my Zero, I must test it. Maybe I will have negative effects at rpm. If this will be right and reailty I won´t use it.
03-18-2012, 08:48 AM
#1174
RE: CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
Thank you Vasek. What about your Corsair? I asked rcm Pelikan for the Corsair´s retract as a spare part but I didn´t get any answer. I thinking about P-40 as a oppoment for my Zero and this retract is good for it.