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Old 02-23-2012, 08:11 PM
  #21576  
mtz57
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72215,and 86290 i also what to know about these parts what do you think are they even worth the time and money?
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/pa.../72215_01t.jpg); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); height: 113px; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; ">
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/pa.../86290_01t.jpg); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); height: 113px; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; ">

Old 02-24-2012, 08:56 PM
  #21577  
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ORIGINAL: mtz57

hi all it has been a while since i have posted. but i have had no problemsi cant solvetill now. so here i go.
re"> i have a nitro mt2. i have had a 2 speed on it for a long time since it was a mt1 and have never had problems with it. until just now. now i have had some problem with it changing gears i have not changed tires and made sure the set screw on the shaft is good and tight i take out the spring and ball it works fine but every time i put a spring and ball back in its like magic it wont change into second grear. with engine running full throttle(g3.0). i have changed springs from old mt silver to two speed tuneup kit black then sliver from the same kit. it is not striping gears and runs good just no 2nd gear weird huh? lol anyway i will keep messing with it until something works.


Did you check your clutch shoes? If the CBis slipping and not getting up to the right RPMits not going to shift.

re"> another question is i know that hpi says dont put a 2speed on mt2 it strips or whatever. "the only time i have striped a gear was when the mesh was not right". but why? is it not good for it. mine has ran with heavy duty diffs, 49/52, 11/14, just got a 12/15 bell going to try this out soon. and a g3.0. i have only striped one gear in years and i do alot of off road jumps ect. i hear that the slipper clutch for the mt2 is better for jumping how so? does it keep engine revs down in the air down and keep it more level on jumps or what? thats one of my only problems with this truck is it does not jump as clean as my buddys cars like rc10 gt. i did not know if that was the prob.. or that it is theobviousone that i just suck at jumps lol.

They dont recommend the 2 speed because of the jumps. If you land a jump still on the throttle you have a better chance of stripping the spurs or cracking the OWB in the 2 speed. The slipper will absorb the impact if the wheels hit hard from a jump. The spur will slip rather then strip. If you over tighten the slipper though you could have the same problem as the 2 speed, in that you'll strip the gear on a hard landing.

re"> my last question is that my antana wire has come out of my reciever and i cant remeber or see where to put it back on i would hate to have to buy a new one just for that one little proble that could be fixed. it is the oem mt1 receiver. its the blue one hpi RX-1 if anyone can snap a pick and let me know where to put the antnna wire that would be a great help. and save me like 40 bucks.
re"> if anyone wants to know more about 2speeds cluch and flywheel config to get the 2speed working let me know i might be able to help a lil since i have had one for years.
Old 02-25-2012, 03:15 PM
  #21578  
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ORIGINAL: mtz57

my last question is that my antana wire has come out of my reciever and i cant remeber or see where to put it back on i would hate to have to buy a new one just for that one little proble that could be fixed. it is the oem mt1 receiver. its the blue one hpi RX-1 if anyone can snap a pick and let me know where to put the antnna wire that would be a great help. and save me like 40 bucks.
you will have to open it and resolder it on. just sticking it back in won't do it. You will probably see where it solders to the board.

Also for $20 you can get a 2.4ghz flysky radio, and keep the antenna under the body safe from harm
Hell for $40 you can get http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html with 10 model memory, and $7 RX's if you get more RC's.
Old 02-25-2012, 05:24 PM
  #21579  
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man SyCo_VeNoM you have the best advice. i think i will get that radio! i will just fix the old reciver and keep as a back up.[/b]
Old 02-26-2012, 03:20 PM
  #21580  
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Where are you running it at? I know it may sound dumb but sometimes it's all about perception. If you run an MT2 in a big open parking lot it'll feel pretty slow, especially once it's topped out. On a track or a dirt lot it'd feel like it was flying.
I've had several MT2's in several different configurations, and I personally think it's a little slow in stock form. A 2 speed out of an RS4 will help a lot.
Of course this is all assuming your engine is tuned right which it sounds like you can't be far off of.If you want a cheap, great dropi-in motor that WILL wake that thing up pick up an OS .18 CV-RX.
John, just an update on my potential engine swap. I thought a lot about it. I considered spending approx $150 on an O.S. engine. Then I thought about just replacing the G3.0 with a SH .18 like in my Redcat. I know this would not be as fast as the O.S. but it's definately more powerful than the G3.0 that's in there now, and I could get a new one for about $65. The tuning stays constant and it always just runs. The HPI engine is extremely tempermental. Well the last few days my G3.0 just won't run right. I've cleaned the carb and taken it apart but it just won't idle for more than a few seconds. This made me just want to get rid of the HPI engine, I never have these problems with my Redcat engines. So then I thought about it. I put the carb from the Redcat SH .18 on it. What a difference! It idles good, runs right and the top end is much better. I don't know if the HPI carb was just messed up but I've had two brand new G3.0 engines complete with new carbs and they've both run like crap. They both constantly needed to be tweaked when I ran them so it seems like this is just how they are. So anyway, just thought I'd pass this along. In my opinion, it just seems like the carb that comes with the G3.0 is very problematic. Here's a pic of my MT2
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:31 PM
  #21581  
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ORIGINAL: mtz57

man SyCo_VeNoM you have the best advice. i think i will get that radio! i will just fix the old reciver and keep as a back up. [/b]
forgot to say those radios the RX's have a programmable failsafe.
I own one of each of their models and can't really complain Range is farther than I can see (around 1/8th of a mile I tested seeing after that I can no longer see it, one place tested it via camera and still had control of a RC after a quarter mile). I've not used or programmed the fail safe feature yet though.
Old 02-27-2012, 02:59 PM
  #21582  
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ORIGINAL: Dads like rc too


ORIGINAL: Johnbalz
Where are you running it at? I know it may sound dumb but sometimes it's all about perception. If you run an MT2 in a big open parking lot it'll feel pretty slow, especially once it's topped out. On a track or a dirt lot it'd feel like it was flying.
I've had several MT2's in several different configurations, and I personally think it's a little slow in stock form. A 2 speed out of an RS4 will help a lot.
Of course this is all assuming your engine is tuned right which it sounds like you can't be far off of.If you want a cheap, great dropi-in motor that WILL wake that thing up pick up an OS .18 CV-RX.
John, just an update on my potential engine swap. I thought a lot about it. I considered spending approx $150 on an O.S. engine. Then I thought about just replacing the G3.0 with a SH .18 like in my Redcat. I know this would not be as fast as the O.S. but it's definately more powerful than the G3.0 that's in there now, and I could get a new one for about $65. The tuning stays constant and it always just runs. The HPI engine is extremely tempermental. Well the last few days my G3.0 just won't run right. I've cleaned the carb and taken it apart but it just won't idle for more than a few seconds. This made me just want to get rid of the HPI engine, I never have these problems with my Redcat engines. So then I thought about it. I put the carb from the Redcat SH .18 on it. What a difference! It idles good, runs right and the top end is much better. I don't know if the HPI carb was just messed up but I've had two brand new G3.0 engines complete with new carbs and they've both run like crap. They both constantly needed to be tweaked when I ran them so it seems like this is just how they are. So anyway, just thought I'd pass this along. In my opinion, it just seems like the carb that comes with the G3.0 is very problematic. Here's a pic of my MT2
Thanks for the update and glad you were able to get it worked out! I had swapped out on OS carb onto one of my old Traxxas 3.3 engines a long time ago and it made a night and day difference in how the thing ran. It actually held a tune and ran smoothly. Good thinking on swapping it out.
Good looking MT2!
Old 02-28-2012, 04:09 PM
  #21583  
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ORIGINAL: Dads like rc too


ORIGINAL: Johnbalz
Where are you running it at? I know it may sound dumb but sometimes it's all about perception. If you run an MT2 in a big open parking lot it'll feel pretty slow, especially once it's topped out. On a track or a dirt lot it'd feel like it was flying.
I've had several MT2's in several different configurations, and I personally think it's a little slow in stock form. A 2 speed out of an RS4 will help a lot.
Of course this is all assuming your engine is tuned right which it sounds like you can't be far off of.If you want a cheap, great dropi-in motor that WILL wake that thing up pick up an OS .18 CV-RX.
John, just an update on my potential engine swap. I thought a lot about it. I considered spending approx $150 on an O.S. engine. Then I thought about just replacing the G3.0 with a SH .18 like in my Redcat. I know this would not be as fast as the O.S. but it's definately more powerful than the G3.0 that's in there now, and I could get a new one for about $65. The tuning stays constant and it always just runs. The HPI engine is extremely tempermental. Well the last few days my G3.0 just won't run right. I've cleaned the carb and taken it apart but it just won't idle for more than a few seconds. This made me just want to get rid of the HPI engine, I never have these problems with my Redcat engines. So then I thought about it. I put the carb from the Redcat SH .18 on it. What a difference! It idles good, runs right and the top end is much better. I don't know if the HPI carb was just messed up but I've had two brand new G3.0 engines complete with new carbs and they've both run like crap. They both constantly needed to be tweaked when I ran them so it seems like this is just how they are. So anyway, just thought I'd pass this along. In my opinion, it just seems like the carb that comes with the G3.0 is very problematic. Here's a pic of my MT2
Hello. Iam curious, is the SH .18 a drop in replacment for MT2? Will it work with the existing engine mounts? I purchased a used MT2 G3.0 with a damanged piston and connecting rod. The prior owner said it broke when trying to start it with the eletric roto start. I think it is best to put a new engine and it will cost about the same as trying to rebuild the damaged engine. This truck is for bashing not racing and the SH .18 sounds like it might be worth trying out. Thank you.

Old 02-28-2012, 06:47 PM
  #21584  
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ORIGINAL: aidtwo

Hello. Iam curious, is the SH .18 a drop in replacment for MT2? Will it work with the existing engine mounts? I purchased a used MT2 G3.0 with a damanged piston and connecting rod. The prior owner said it broke when trying to start it with the eletric roto start. I think it is best to put a new engine and it will cost about the same as trying to rebuild the damaged engine. This truck is for bashing not racing and the SH .18 sounds like it might be worth trying out. Thank you.
I haven't measured the holes in the chassis but the engines are nearly identical. Worst case is you'll need to buy the Redcat engine mount for $10 on ebay. Personaly if you've read my posts on the last few pages my experience with the G3.0 has been terrible.

Now I'm no expert, I'm sure a bunch of guys can jump in here and tell me I'm wrong but I've had two brand new out of the box G3.0 engines and they both ran like they were a much smaller engine. I have 3 nitro trucks and am good at tuning but this G3.0 just never screamed like my SH engines do. At least until I swapped the carb anyway, now it runs just fine. Redcat always gets bashed for their reputation but I have to tell you that my Nitro MT2 in not much better quality than my Redcat Tornado S30. Only difference is the Redcat is about $200 cheaper. Now I'm not bashing HPI, I like their products and would like to get a hold of their trophy truggy but to be honest, my MT2 is definately on the lower quality scale of the HPI products.

But to get back to the engine question, unless you want to upgrade to the O.S. engine like others have posted about in this thread, I would be completly satisfied with the power that the SH .18 will provide. Considering the price difference the SH engine will run just about 40mph which I find to be just as fast as you really want to run if your playing around the neighborhood and local parks. Shure it's cool when you have a truck that will run 50+ but you soon notice that things start to get in your way more often resulting in more repair bills.

Here's a great deal on a complete ready to go SH .18 engine with clutch, exhaust, and engine mount. Only thing you would have to swap out is the clutch bell for a single speed bell.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redcat-Torna...ht_1954wt_1084

Old 02-28-2012, 07:14 PM
  #21585  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

Dont let anyone fool you. SH makes excellent engines. I have 2 redcats with the .18's and as you said they are easy to tune and run very well. I have an SH .28 in my Thunder Tiger ST-1 and it has as much if not more power then my LRP engines. You cant go wrong with SH.
As far as the G3.0 I dont have any experience with those engines but the HPI engine that came with my MT2 was way underpowered for the truck right out of the box.
Old 03-01-2012, 03:40 PM
  #21586  
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Thank you Dads like rc too and KeithjV for the information. It is appreciated!
Old 03-18-2012, 01:36 PM
  #21587  
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Good Evening venom i see a post you left for another forum user and i looked into the controller you recommended as i have a mt2 with standard receiver and stock servo etc and after the first day of having mt2 couple years ago it went out of range and into a dog waste bin but i had to replace loads of arms wishbones the lot but since then i have a venom fail safe which works well but i am always worried that it doesn't work and i have been bashing few times in plain open area and car fail safe has kicked in an i have to run towards to get it moving again which is seriously irritating so got told to get a digital receiver and this one looks good do i need any better if i just bashing now and again? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...ht_7510wt_1277
Old 03-18-2012, 06:00 PM
  #21588  
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Ok so my manager at work doesnt know anything about rcs and he found out i have a Summit so he gave me his MT 2 to fix for him. I just got it today and havent dove into it yet to see what the prob is...he says it starts just doesnt go. Any1 have any suggestions as to where i should start? I know alittle about nitros...had a rustler about 10 years ago so im alittle rusty on it.
Old 03-18-2012, 08:45 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

That radio that venom recomened is great! It is the fly sky fs-gt-3b you can get it on hobbypartz.com it has ten model memmory,abs breaks, exp, and fail safe built in! Best buy in rc its only 39 bucks and the recevers are like 8 bucks .
Old 03-18-2012, 08:46 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

That radio that venom recomened is great! It is the fly sky fs-gt-3b you can get it on hobbypartz.com it has ten model memmory,abs breaks, exp, and fail safe built in! Best buy in rc its only 39 bucks and the recevers are like 8 bucks .
Old 03-19-2012, 01:17 AM
  #21591  
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ORIGINAL: Blowerz

Good Evening venom i see a post you left for another forum user and i looked into the controller you recommended as i have a mt2 with standard receiver and stock servo etc and after the first day of having mt2 couple years ago it went out of range and into a dog waste bin but i had to replace loads of arms wishbones the lot but since then i have a venom fail safe which works well but i am always worried that it doesn't work and i have been bashing few times in plain open area and car fail safe has kicked in an i have to run towards to get it moving again which is seriously irritating so got told to get a digital receiver and this one looks good do i need any better if i just bashing now and again? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...ht_7510wt_1277
Could someone take a look at the eBay link tell me if that's everything I need or do I need this rx thing people are talking about as if not I'll purchase this today and also I have been looking at some blue springs for my shocks as they are supposedly hard and I now two sets of wheels one set the original Yokohama types for dirt then some road tyres with hpi rims for tarmac and I didn't no if this will make it better on road if I had the blue springs against the original not forgetting that I have replaced the shock oil for what I was told was thicker oil will the blue springs make it a lot stiffer or not worth doing? Or is it worth expense to buy the gpm shocks? I also may be stupid here but for my new tyres an rims is tyre glue just superglue hyped up lol?
Old 03-19-2012, 02:09 PM
  #21592  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

ORIGINAL: Blowerz

ORIGINAL: Blowerz

Good Evening venom i see a post you left for another forum user and i looked into the controller you recommended as i have a mt2 with standard receiver and stock servo etc and after the first day of having mt2 couple years ago it went out of range and into a dog waste bin but i had to replace loads of arms wishbones the lot but since then i have a venom fail safe which works well but i am always worried that it doesn't work and i have been bashing few times in plain open area and car fail safe has kicked in an i have to run towards to get it moving again which is seriously irritating so got told to get a digital receiver and this one looks good do i need any better if i just bashing now and again? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...ht_7510wt_1277
Could someone take a look at the eBay link tell me if that's everything I need or do I need this rx thing people are talking about as if not I'll purchase this today and also I have been looking at some blue springs for my shocks as they are supposedly hard and I now two sets of wheels one set the original Yokohama types for dirt then some road tyres with hpi rims for tarmac and I didn't no if this will make it better on road if I had the blue springs against the original not forgetting that I have replaced the shock oil for what I was told was thicker oil will the blue springs make it a lot stiffer or not worth doing? Or is it worth expense to buy the gpm shocks? I also may be stupid here but for my new tyres an rims is tyre glue just superglue hyped up lol?
I got one of those works great IMO.
Had it for well over a year with no run aways.
There is one slight issue with it I forgot what it was, but one of the features its advertised as having don't work at all(I forgot what I think it was but its something 90% of people don't even use think it was sub trim or something, I know I never knew it worked until someone said it in a post, and I went and purposely tried it)

Side note sorry for not noticing the post for some reason the forums sometimes don't update what threads have new posts in them
Old 03-19-2012, 02:47 PM
  #21593  
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Thank venom an I have ordered one now after bashing after work for an hour an worrying about a run away even though have failsafe so will be here in 3-4 days so will see and what about the so called tyre glue is that just superglue so I'll use superglue if so? An also I'm running stock shocks with heavier oil but will buying blue springs make it solid or u recommend gpm adjustable shocks?

Thinking maybe to buy a on road car as wanted to drop os .18 or the g3.0 in my mt2 but can't be bothered to start worrying about getting hardend diffs etc as just want something quick so is the hpi nitro 3 the best about that price? I'm not gonna buy a traxxas x-01 lol
Old 03-19-2012, 02:48 PM
  #21594  
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Thank venom an I have ordered one now after bashing after work for an hour an worrying about a run away even though have failsafe so will be here in 3-4 days so will see and what about the so called tyre glue is that just superglue so I'll use superglue if so? An also I'm running stock shocks with heavier oil but will buying blue springs make it solid or u recommend gpm adjustable shocks?

Thinking maybe to buy a on road car as wanted to drop os .18 or the g3.0 in my mt2 but can't be bothered to start worrying about getting hardend diffs etc as just want something quick so is the hpi nitro 3 the best about that price? I'm not gonna buy a traxxas x-01 lol
Old 03-20-2012, 07:36 AM
  #21595  
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

tire glue yes and no to just superglue
yes you can use super glue, but I find the tire glue holds a better, and is easier to work with seeing it doesn't adhere immediately on contact (depending on the type you get)

On-road beats me never was a real onroad fan, I've had an original RS4 design (was really poor with the belt and all), and I made an RS4 EVO on-road in the past out of scrap MT& the original RS4 parts(only needed the driveshafts, and chassis plate), but ended up taking it apart due to not really having anywhere to run it.

As for shocks I have the stocks on mine so I can't comment on GPM's seeing I've not owned their shocks.
Old 03-20-2012, 10:01 AM
  #21596  
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Yeah I may hold off with the shocks as may be getting new hpi rs4 evo+ as only wanted the blue shocks to make it firmer on road as was going to get g3.0 or os 18cvr but im not competent enough to start upgrading to Hd cups an diffs an I have a set of road hpi tyres an hpi rims can't remember the name of them but there official hpi tyres an I will buy some tyre glue then.

Seriously looking forward to my flysky transmitter as fed up of worrying lol an I desperately want a quicker car for on road as off road mt2 is quick enough.

What is the main benefit of higher % nitro as I run 20% an is good for me but I no if went up I'd need to retune but does it make much difference?

What clutch bell and spur do u run as does a 13 tooth seriously improve acceleration an dramaticly cut top end?
Old 03-20-2012, 10:02 AM
  #21597  
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Yeah I may hold off with the shocks as may be getting new hpi rs4 evo+ as only wanted the blue shocks to make it firmer on road as was going to get g3.0 or os 18cvr but im not competent enough to start upgrading to Hd cups an diffs an I have a set of road hpi tyres an hpi rims can't remember the name of them but there official hpi tyres an I will buy some tyre glue then.

Seriously looking forward to my flysky transmitter as fed up of worrying lol an I desperately want a quicker car for on road as off road mt2 is quick enough.

What is the main benefit of higher % nitro as I run 20% an is good for me but I no if went up I'd need to retune but does it make much difference?

What clutch bell and spur do u run as does a 13 tooth seriously improve acceleration an dramaticly cut top end?
Old 03-26-2012, 09:09 PM
  #21598  
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So i am taking the two speed out of my mt2 first time since it was an mt1 i have the mt2 slipper clutch spur 52t and a 13t&12t bells i am running the g3.0 wich bell should i use. For top speed? I am looking at the 49t spur and there are like ten bells for it wich should i use for off the line speed and top speed. Is the gen rule smaller # of teeth on spur and larger # on clutch bell 4 top speed but what about best acelaration? Just invert that? Its been a while since i have messed with gears
Old 03-26-2012, 10:00 PM
  #21599  
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Hi I am no pro but do know that the higher the clutch bell the better top speed but u will sacrifice acceleration so a 12 or 13 with a 52 spur will be off the line but not top end so go for happy medium an if want both get 15tooth clutch and 49 spur
Old 04-03-2012, 08:51 AM
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Default RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread

I just got a mt2 and finally got it running after sitting for three years and found out today that only the front wheels are pulling. Could some1 please tell me what this could be? Thanks


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