sparky 25

This past while I stopped bothering with a temp gun,

If you know how your engine should run and sound you don't need one,

You get to know tuning by sight and sound after a while.

nitro-rob

I completely agree.  Temperature is a good way to get started and it can be a good guide but after a while you can develop the ability to tell by ear.  Sometimes the engine can sit at 240 or so and still be rich and will run best at 280 and some days it runs best at 220 and can't go any leaner.

1ne8ighty2wo

My Feedback: (2)

I love that bug body! I found a couple on ebay, but it looks like they come in long chassis and short chassis versions (details below). Which would I get to fit a Savage 21?

Long:
Length: 19.25" (489mm)
Height: 6.0" (152mm)
Width: 7.5" (191mm)
Wheel Base: 12.5" (318mm

Short:
Length: 17.63" (448mm)
Height: 5.75" (146mm)
Width: 7.0" (178mm))
Wheel Base: 11.38" (289mm)

SLAYERDUDE

My "member" best fits a Savage body, in length and circumference.
That's your best bet, from what I have been told.

quietnas1

I actually got the Pro-Line baja body for the Revo. It was a perfect fit.

1ne8ighty2wo

My Feedback: (2)

Just to be sure, you have [link=http://prolineracing.com/bodies/volkswagen-maxx-revo-body/]THIS ONE[/link], right? What model Savage do you have?

quietnas1

Yup that's the one.

1ne8ighty2wo

My Feedback: (2)

So I have all the parts I need for my Savage and I finally got a chance to start it up yesterday. I found that the fuel tank pump doesn't work so I had to blow in the pressure line to get fuel to the carb then plug the pipe and run the roto to prime it (is this an okay method, and any easy way to fix the fuel pump issue? Besides buying an in-line primer bulb, which I might have to do). It started up after a minute or so of working at it so I took off the starter set it down for about 20 seconds of idling pretty consistently, then as soon as I tapped the gas it cut out. This happened a few times so I left it for the night and came back to it today.

It started up the same, but now when I take the starter off it dies after about 5 seconds, and it only goes for 30 or so seconds before it slowly dies with the starter still on. Is this a matter of it not being warmed up, or does it sound like something else? The needles are at factory settings.

I had some problems with the carb in getting the needles back to factory settings, does it sound like it could be damage to the carb/needles that's causing this?

echthelion

sounds way rich lean the HSN

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

If your Savage has the primer tank, then it's probably pushing a decade old. The primer tanks were done away with because the primers leaked and - you guessed it - tuning issues. Get the primerless style tank and you should be good to go.

1ne8ighty2wo

My Feedback: (2)

I believe I found my problem: the threading for the glow plug has somehow almost fully stripped out of the engine case. Is there any way to get this re-threaded, or does it look like I'll be buying myself a new engine?

EDIT: after looking on tower, would it just be a matter of buying a new [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLM6&P=Z]UNDERHEAD[/link]? I can't tell if that has the threaded part or not on it

echthelion

yes thats what the glow plug threads into just make sure that its the right head for you engine

1ne8ighty2wo

My Feedback: (2)

Thank you!


Oh wow, thanks for the info. Do you know if a tank for the savage x would fit in the savage 21?

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Yep, in fact that was a running change back in the Savage 25 days. The updated tank will fit no problem.

1ne8ighty2wo

My Feedback: (2)

Did you cut any wholes in the body for air flow? And if so, where?

smush81

backstory:
i bought my rtr savage x 4.6 last year. ran it a few times with little to no problems. broke a shock and it sat for a while (few months) due to just being super busy. finally got it back up and running again the other day and was running great. from what i could tell everything was tuned just fine. ( this is my first nitro truck) put it away for the night. the next day had problem with the throttle servo holding wide open as soon as i turned it on. figured out it was a problem with my stock remote. bought a new remote (spektrum dx3c) and replaced the old reciever with the new one that came with my new remote. took it out and ran it for about 5 mins before it stopped moving the wheels. turns out screws in motor came lose and it missaligned with spur gear, destryoing it. I replaced it, thread locked screws back in, and ran it again. now i cant seem to get it to consistantly change gears. this is my current problem i need help with. it will sometimes switch and other times it just revs really high in first without changing to second. i know there is a screw i can adjust to change shift points but im not sure this is the problem since it will still occassionlly shift. been cleaning,adjusting,and tuning it for 2 days now trying to get it running right with no luck. checked clutch shoes and they seem fine. dont really have much experience with them but i dont see any excessive wear on them so im assuming there ok. spur gear is still good and mesh seems just fine. any suggestions would be great. sorry for the long backstory but i figued if u had all the info it might help. also after checking the clutch shoes i cleaned out the clutch bell just to make sure there wasnt a grip problem there. still no luck. suggestions? thanks!

SLAYERDUDE

Start with the tune, if you are too rich or lean it won't shift properly.

xDIRTYSOUTHx

My Savage X 4.6 got here this afternoon and all I can say is DAMN!Going to break it in this weekend and can't wait to bash this beast. My XS looks so funny next to it..