bikerbc

Adamle I made my retract wells out of balsa and I pre covered them with white covering because I thought it would be easier to do it before hand than to try and cover later..I since have found that Pringles potato chips tube is almost the perfect size..I might give them a try next time or there is a real good chance I would go with MinnnFlyersFoam method..The built up way is a lot of work..I will wait and see if I have any trouble with the built up system before making up my mind..If I have any trouble with it I will go to Minns way of doing it next time..I think its actually a better system...Less can go wrong...Thanks for the inputt on the covering guys..You reinforced how I was feeling..I am going to pick up some more Ulta cote...

bikerbc

Adamle there are a few pics of the well construction on page 39 post 963 if you are interested...

adamle

I'm sure the construction of the balsa wheel wells is more work, but I think it looks better. I believe you were wise to cover them before installation.  Thanks for the advice.  I will be cutting holes for my wells this week.  My wing already has the sheeting on it, so I will be cutting a circle and then rib 3 for the wheel to fit.  Then I'll make the well, glue it in, and sand it flush. 

This has been fun build because of the extra engineering required when you add the retracts, flaps and all the other slight modifications.  I was planning on moving my canopy back about 2 inches as well.

bikerbc

Adamle I put in built up retract wells for looks as well...I also enjoyed the extra work adding the flaps and doing other minor mods..I changed tail wheels etc..I would not want to do anything much to the airframe itself because it flys so well just as it is...I have really taken my time and enjoyed this build..I would love to see pics if you have the ability to post some...What type of retracts are you using? I went with electric..This is my first retract instlation..I have recieved a lot of help on here and that has made it easier and more fun...

adamle

bikerbc  I am using the Robart 908 mechanical retracts.  I had ordered the Dave Brown retracts but they were on backorder for a few weeks.  I hope the retracts hold up on our grass field.  I also added a sullivan tail wheel assembly.  I'll post photos soon.

bikerbc

I used the Sullivan Tail wheel too. I also put a hatch behind the wing for the battery because I was a wee bit nose heavy...

Gordie M

i'm building my 3rd US at the moment. Couple of quick time saving options:

1. Temp glue as per instructionsbut shape the fin fillets at the same time you sand the top of the turtledeck - quicker than the separate step in the instructions.

2. If you are going to install the wing fillets to the fuse, did it before gluing on the stsb and fin, much easier to have the fuse on its side on your bench - don't need to hang the tailfeathers off the end of your bench or work up high on a stand.

3. I've fully sheeted the wing, I reckon its quicker than the rib cap strips, by the time you've broken them a million times by hitting with your sanding block, then tried to fill the joints the sheeting is just as quick and makes the wing way strong.

Cheers,

Gordie.

bikerbc

How is your build comming along Adam? Did you get your retracts in ? I am well into my covering now..

bikerbc

lots of kits come with little dash boards with fake instruments but I didn't find one with this kit..Did I get shorted or doent it come with one? I got the wooden part that you glue in on the front of the cockpit but no dashboard...Thanks Ken

bikerbc

Well my Ultra Sport is pretty much covered. I have the controle surfaces hinged and attached to the servos.Except for the flaps, I dont know where to plug them in yet..There is no spot that says flaps on my reciever...I will have to do some reading... I am just final installing the motor..I still have the canopy to put on..It's getting close..

adamle

Bikerbc

You know everyone wants pictures of the covered plane.  But anyway, this is how I was planning on doing my set up.  Channels 1-4 are typical, channel 5 is retracts, channel 6 is flaps, and channel 7 is left aileron.  Then, assign the switches according to your radio.  I am using a Futaba 9cap.  I also promise to post some photos soon.

Also, the dash on my kit is just a piece of plywood too.  I'm considering tinting the canopy really dark or painting it,  unless my 4 year old son throws a fit about not having a pilot.

Adam

bikerbc

Hi Adam I will post some pics in the next day or two..I still have a bit too do..I was thinking about tinting my canopy too also the prop just for fun....I put a hatch behind my wing for the battery because I thought I was going to be nose heavy with the OS75 but it turns out that I balance perfect with the battery dead centre..Thanks for the input on the channel lay out..I am using Specktrum and most of it is marked so you just follow the instructions..Rud goes to rudder etc...One not marked is flaps...Pics soon

corch

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, i've hit a frustration point.  I realize part of it is my own fault because the US is probably not an ideal "first" kit.  However, I just had to walk away from it tonight.

I'm on the wings.  I spent considerable time lining up the TE and the wing ribs and got those glued in just fine.  No big deal.  Now I'm at the part where the manual calls for you to "center" the LE on the wing ribs.  How the heck do I do that?  The ribs are glued to the TE piece, and I'm not working on an "island" table.

At this point I just want to pin a scrap piece of 3/32 balsa to the top and bottom of the LE of the ribs and line it up that way, but I'm not sure if that will work.  Any suggestions?

dash008

My Feedback: (1)

Pretty sure I just eyeballed it. got the ends lined up and glued those first, setting the proper dihedral angle with the dihedral jig, and then went back and glued in the rest of the ribs making sure they were as close to center as possible. Didn't use anything really to measure other than "looks about right".

It definitely makes things easier if you can get to the other side. If you tape your plans to a ceiling tile and then build on that, it will give you something to stick your pins into and also enable you to rotate the ceiling tile so that you can work on the other side if you're working at a table that you're not able to move all the way around.

bikerbc

Yes you just eyeball it and then a tiny drop of ca to lock it in place ..It is easier than you think once you get going..Having an island table would help. How far do you have to reach? Is there any way you can bring it a bit closer so that you dont need to strech way out?..Good luck..Let us know how you are making out

adamle

corch

The idea to pin or tape a 3/32 scrape would work well, especially to make sure you have enough room on the bottom.  On my kit the leading edge was a bit wider than the ribs and 3/32 sheeting (but not by much) so you have a little wiggle room.  What I would do if I didn't trust my eyes is to draw a line right down the middle of the leading edge (on the side that gets glued to the ribs) Then measure and find the centers of the ribs and mark those.  Then you can line up the ribs and the leading edge from the back, without having to see the front.  Hopefully that description works, sorry I can't make up a drawing like Minnflyer would.   I also glued ribs 2-11 to the leading and trailing edges and then did rib 1.  It seems easier to set the dihedral gauge and angle when the rest of the wing isn't moving around.

hope that helps

adamle

Here's a question, I'm using an OS 65 ax for power, what would be the best prop for this?  I'm thinking starting with an 12-7 apc.  Or would a 13-7 be better?  I know there has been a lot of discussion about which paint mixer to use for the 75 ax but I haven't seen much for the 65.

FallDownGoBoom

My Feedback: (1)

I think you're in the right range... if the power output of a 65AX is a bit less than a 75AX, something in the 12x6 - 13x7 range should work pretty well. My 75AX is happy with a 13x8 Evolution prop, and I think Mike has run a 14x6 on his, so I'd think one inch smaller in diameter on a 65 would be about right. To figure out the best prop, you're probably going to have to spend a few bucks, and try various MAS/APC/Evo props until you find one that the 65, and you, are happy with.

corch

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the help.  I'll get back on it tomorrow evening.  With the nice weather I decided I needed to push myself to try to get it done....won't happen.  So I set a more realistic goal (for me) of July 1st.  I just need to take my time and think.  And since all I've done before this kit is ARFS, I had no idea how much went into building a kit.  Learning lessons step by step and learning the processes and figuring stuff out goes with the territory I guess...it'll all be worth it on maiden day

As for the 65AX, we've had a couple guys at the field use them and they really like them.  They are using APC 12X8.  Here's a fairly detailed review:
http://downloads.hobbico.com/reviews/osmg0558-rcsf.pdf

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

hey guys i have a OS 65 AX that i used in a DC/Juno tsunami. I flew it with several props. All props APC. The 65 ran the 11x7 at 13,100 on the muffler no baffle. it was a bit small for the plane but the 11x8 ran the best around 12,400-12,600 and pulled then plane along around 125. The 10x10 was the fastest at around 135-140 sorry i didnt get a RPM reading i dont think well cant remember it. i tried a 12x8 but the the engine seemed like it didnt like it but it was quite in the air.

For tis plane i would run a 11x8 or a 12x7 prop for best "overall" performance. go up one size in pitch or diameter if running a Jett muffler

bikerbc

I have tried to upload some pics of my Ultra Sport..I might still tint the Canopy and Prop..Plus put a bit of trim on it but here it is as it is today..We are having a Mall show starting tomorrow so I had to get it together for that..I hope the pics show up..Some times I have trouble with that..

bikerbc

bikerbc

bikerbc

dash008

My Feedback: (1)

It looks very nice. I like the simple, yet attractive, color scheme.