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Laser Cutting and design question

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Old 03-09-2012, 05:32 PM
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scigs30
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Default Laser Cutting and design question



I have designed a few of my own Planes so far in Coreldraw and send the files off for laser cutting. When the parts come back I have noticed that the notches may be a little bigger than what I designed and the parts are a little smaller. My cutter tells me to add or subtract .003 to the parts to correct this. Does this sound right? Do most people just say forget it and don't allow the small difference in size not bother them?
Old 03-09-2012, 05:48 PM
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Chad Veich
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Default RE: Laser Cutting and design question

I offset about 90% of my parts by .005" which has served me well on most materials. Very thin stuff may need less while thicker materials may need a bit more but .005 has been a good compromise for the laser cutter that I use.
Old 03-09-2012, 08:22 PM
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warrior10
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Default RE: Laser Cutting and design question

I useally work on 0.3mm compensation for the laser on balsa and ply.
Old 03-10-2012, 08:12 AM
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Default RE: Laser Cutting and design question

The laser kerf probably doesn't make much difference on many parts but on slots, tabs, notches for stringers, etc. it does.
Another thing to watch for if the laser cutter supplies the wood is the actual thickness of the sheet. "1/8" sheet is usually enough less than .125" to make the tabs too loose.
Old 03-10-2012, 09:29 AM
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Chad Veich
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Default RE: Laser Cutting and design question


ORIGINAL: allanflowers

The laser kerf probably doesn't make much difference on many parts but on slots, tabs, notches for stringers, etc. it does.
Another thing to watch for if the laser cutter supplies the wood is the actual thickness of the sheet. ''1/8'' sheet is usually enough less than .125'' to make the tabs too loose.
Allan makes two very good points here. One, you don't really need to account for the laser kerf on anything other than where you want a snug fit of two interlocking parts. I mean, who cares if the lightening holes end up .006 inches bigger than you drew them! And definitely put a micrometer on the wood you will be using if you really want to be certain of snug joints. Some balsa suppliers are better than others and some times wood that is actually cut to metric specs is called out nominally in standard units. Light ply for example is actually 3mm rather than 1/8 inch. The aircraft grade Birch plywoods tend to be more accurate but not always. Depends on where they are manufactured I suppose. At any rate, it's always good to check. Last but not least, there is going to be some variance no matter what you do. You can shoot for a happy medium and live with the occasional fit which is too tight and some that are a bit loose. Or you can be sure to cut so that you are always under size and live with having to sand for the perfect fit once in a while. My .02 cents anyway.

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