Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

Yes, it is Messchersmitt. It is something between Bf-109F and Bf-109G. I´m going to remake it to Bf-109G. I´ve just had one, but during the first flight I had problem with the engine []

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

Today was the last day of painting. Now is also painted the tail number, which I made different. Number 72 is easier than number 79. Now is time for cockpit. I bought the ESM Japan pilot 1/5, because the 1/6 one is too small. I don´t know how it is possible, because my Zero is cca 1/6. Maybe it caused by the different producers, Zero is from CMP and pilot is from ESM. Last thing, which I made today was exhaust system.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

There is great humour in the raw honesty of that comment...thanks for the laugh

Everything looks really good there. I found the same problem with some of those figures as well...did exactly as you...used the 1/5 instead

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

I don´t understand what is so funny?Airbursh templet in this size for the number 72 was easier.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

In today's times it often seems that people go around or avoid the real truth to describe their actions...from the simplest to the most complicated. You very plainly said you did what you did because it was "easier". That was straight to the point and honest, no apologies or strange reasoning. Very sincere and refreshing to read since I hear so much BS in a day. It made me laugh because of that and I was very happy with reading your post

Don't overthink my comment...It is definitely meant in a very complimentary and positive way! And yes, a "2" is much easier than a "9", that's part of what amused me since I've done the same thing for the same reason (53 instead of 58)

Love your progress and the pics. Keep them coming.

erec11

Hello to all who participate on this building thread. I have been reading this for a long time and now i finaly hade the oportunity to buy one of this ARF´s. I´m in the point of have to chose the components for my plane so first of all:
For the engine i have got two options a ZG26cc that i have converted for EI with RCxell parts and a well tuned Ryobi 31cc (so fa i have got so far 8700rpm with a 18x10 prop), from what i have read this plane needs a lot of weigh in the front so probably the Ryobi will be better. I have seen some of them flying with this ZERO also here on RC Universe
The retracts.... so far i´m thinking on electric retracts so if some one of you is using them please just put a link from were you buy them and also for the struts because i have read from one of you this store (http://shop.rcskylite.com/products/6...o-Fighter.html) has one set that it says that are for the ZERo but will they fit on this particular plane? i would like to know because of the size of them......they look small for this plane!

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

Hello erec,
I have experience with the Zero 50 CC. But every CMP Zero needs a lot of weight in the nose, so the better choice is probably the heavier engine. For my bigger Zero I used pneumatic retract for the ESM La-7. Maybe you can compare some ESM retract, for example Ki-84. I don´t have any experience with any electric retract, so I can´t help you with this question. CMP models don´t have scale length of the legs and diameters of the wheels.

misha034

CMP has two Zero planes. Your is bigger one (for 50cc), but I think that erec11 has smaller version of same plane.

erec11, I have Zenoah 26sc with magnetic ignition (lot of needed weight at front) and it came at 8.5 kg empty. Till now it has only 3 fights,
because it was finished at the end of flying season, but for now engine has enough power.

erec11

Yes i have the 1800mm Zero, so because of the weigh i belive that the Ryobi it will better.... the only problem is that i can´t start that engine by without a starter but thats ok! And for the electric retracts anny news?

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

Yes, I know, that he has the smaller one.This is the reason, why I recomended him the ESM retract for Ki 84, and this is the reason, why I bought the retract for the La-7 (it is bigger). Iwrote, that every CMP Zero needs a lot of weight in the nose, I thought every Zero of every size, not only Zero 50 CC. I wrote, that I have experience with Zero 50 CC, so I want to tell him, that I haven´t the same Zero as erec. Maybe I should wrote it better.

misha034

erec11- Maybe something like this one. Not exactly scale, but nice price.
They are for models up to 7.5 kg.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=21167

RBean

erect11, I have the same plane. Either engine will work but the extra weight of the 31cc will not hurt. I'm using a 25cc McCoughal conversion with electronic ignition. Even though it is heavy I still had to mount both ign. and radio batteries under the cowl and still needed to add some weight to the nose. Total weight of the plane is about 16 lbs. I rebuilt the gear mounts and added flaps. Plane flys great. I'm using Wingspan electric retracts. Here is the link http://www.wingspanretracts.com/LGM685. I had air retracts which were not working good and replaced with these. I have 15 flights on them and so far they have worked great. Using Robart struts 5/16" dia. and 4" wheels.

erec11

Thanks for your reply, tell me this how long are your struts? from the top untill the weels shaft. I have seen here some struts with 210mm but yours looks smaller than that. i have found this on ebay and it looks nice but the size....... i´m not sure if they will fit.

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

Frets, I upload some new pictures of my progress. I started with the details in the cockpit: guns and revi. I made it from the balsa wood and PVC (poly vinil chlorid- plastic material). The won´t be scale, but want to have only some revi, maybe I will you revi from my Bf-109.

erec11

Well now i have two possible solutions for the retracts, one is electrical and the other one is air. Take a look a this two sets of retracts: http://shop.lindinger.at/product_inf...ducts_id=79143 this is the air ones and this are the electrical http://shop.lindinger.at/product_inf...ducts_id=91358.
The price i have to say that both are very nice deals the air retracts cost something like USD50 !!!! yes 5 0 dollars!

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

The air retracts show a price of 80 Euros on my PC.... where do you get them for 50 USD?

erec11

Correct!! thats 80 U.S. dollars = 60.0015 Euros !!

misha034

Thant is not correct.

Lindiger is in Austria, Europe, so price si like it says 79 EURO.
Converted to $ it is about 105 US % + shipping

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Those gun breeches will look great there on each side of the panel and your wear and weathering is looking very good as well!.

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

Thanks, I do my best. But I can continue next weekend, I going to finish the cockpit and I want to do some wear on the canopy.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Finally had some time to make some progress on the second wing half. I had reminded myself repeatedly to make sure to take more pics....still forgot.
Anyway, I must have a knock-off in a CMP box or some older version of the 71"/1800mm Zero because this wing has void spaces in the sheeting and the covering leaves horrible residue when it is peeled off. Comparing parts and things to friends, all parts are otherwise identical to what I see here on everyone elses models.

After peeling off the covering I have to go over the wing with packing tape to remove the rest of the covering adhesive. It works pretty well.

I have a full size (to the model) set of enlargements of the 3-view that I use for reference so I traced out the wheel well and got it cut out. You can see how bad the position and size of the kit is from the tracing.

I cut out the old gear mounts, made some new formers and installed new rails. I also sheeted the bays between formers and the wheel well area with 1/32 plywood for strengthening and because it paints better without too much wood grain showing through.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

I added some thickness at the end of the well for attaching hinges if I decide to add the inner doors. Traced and fitted end and curvature formers/stops to the bottom sheeting to help shape the well lining and give me something to glue to. The well is lined with 1/32'' (.5mm) lite ply, The gear leg walls are 3/32'' (2mm) balsa for some extra strength for the gear mounts.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Next; The Zero has a very distinctive gear leg, so I have modified my second Robart 7/16''(9.5mm) strut to look better. First the oleo mount is cut off the lower strut and then the strut is drilled for the oleo pin. next it is clamped in a vise, heated and bent. the oleo needs a bit of a relief cut into it for the lower end and the oleo stop on the upper strut has to be filed down a bit for the proper extension. I am using 3 3/4'' (95mm) Robart wheels. I'll use some automotive repair resin (Bondo) on the lower strut later to make it less round and look more like the reference picture.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

The leg looks very good frets !

2 questions:

a) the drilling of the hole for the lower pin @ the new location of "spring" mechanism, wouldn't that make it fragile @ that point ? or did you weld-glued the pin ?

b) can you share the file for the scale drawing you show in the first picture series, pls ?

Thanks, V.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Pic can be enlarged even bigger on your screen by clicking the expand icon in the bottom right of pic after you enlarge it the first time. right click and save the biggest one for best resolution.