WACO YMF
04-06-2012, 08:36 AM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Yellowknife,
NT, CANADA
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP
Sky Blue, Red, almost anything but green.
Joe
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
The post that Jay was talking about was from 2007. Mitch has been taking care of the T shirt business for the past few years. I doubt that any shirts are available at this time. Maybe we need to look at another run. The first one was Tan, next was Maroon, and now Navy. I don't know which color to go with for version 4.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
The post that Jay was talking about was from 2007. Mitch has been taking care of the T shirt business for the past few years. I doubt that any shirts are available at this time. Maybe we need to look at another run. The first one was Tan, next was Maroon, and now Navy. I don't know which color to go with for version 4.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Joe
04-06-2012, 10:10 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: belleview,
FL
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
hey Bill,Robert Abel brother#222 here. As I'm new to this forum , I was'nt around for the previous shirt's, and I was curious,did they have individuall brotherhood #'s on them too? And I'd love to have one if there's gonna be another run. Not too particular about color , but I think black would be cool.
04-06-2012, 11:58 AM
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
We thought about putting the number on the sleeve, but it would have added too much to the cost, and would have become a logistical nightmare. I don't see anything wrong with you adding your number to the sleeve with an iron on decal.
The colors are not up for discussion, but will be decided upon by the T shirt committee (Mitch and I) We don't want to duplicate any pre-existing color, and the availability of suitable shirts makes a difference as well. The transfer also limits us to what colors will work. A yellow shirt with a yellow transfer is out of the question.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
The colors are not up for discussion, but will be decided upon by the T shirt committee (Mitch and I) We don't want to duplicate any pre-existing color, and the availability of suitable shirts makes a difference as well. The transfer also limits us to what colors will work. A yellow shirt with a yellow transfer is out of the question.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
04-06-2012, 12:20 PM
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Smithfield,, VA
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
We thought about putting the number on the sleeve, but it would have added too much to the cost, and would have become a logistical nightmare. I don't see anything wrong with you adding your number to the sleeve with an iron on decal.
The colors are not up for discussion, but will be decided upon by the T shirt committee (Mitch and I) We don't want to duplicate any pre-existing color, and the availability of suitable shirts makes a difference as well. The transfer also limits us to what colors will work. A yellow shirt with a yellow transfer is out of the question.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
We thought about putting the number on the sleeve, but it would have added too much to the cost, and would have become a logistical nightmare. I don't see anything wrong with you adding your number to the sleeve with an iron on decal.
The colors are not up for discussion, but will be decided upon by the T shirt committee (Mitch and I) We don't want to duplicate any pre-existing color, and the availability of suitable shirts makes a difference as well. The transfer also limits us to what colors will work. A yellow shirt with a yellow transfer is out of the question.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
04-06-2012, 03:39 PM
My Feedback: (35)
Join Date: May 2010
Location: , PA
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
Hey gents I'll take a few large shirts if another run is decided upon I missed the last run. Bill and Mitch what ever is decided. thanks for all your effort. Light blue would be nice also. I think the demand is here for another run . the brotherhood is growing very fast. Once again thanks for all your effort. George
04-06-2012, 04:55 PM
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Georgian Bluffs,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1
JoeA,
No need to shout though a megaphone. You seem to be implying that a brotherhood member has the molds. I tend to doubt that as the brotherhood members are generally generous and help each other out whenever we can.
If the parts that are in your pictures are in your possession and are in good shape, reverse engineer them and make new molds from them. Whoops, I see that is what you intend to do if you can find the parts. If that is not possible, it may be time to carve new patterns for the molds from the plans.
If anyone here has a clue or any information, please get in touch with JoeAverage and help him out, it is at least the third time he has requested help in finding the molds.
JoeA,
No need to shout though a megaphone. You seem to be implying that a brotherhood member has the molds. I tend to doubt that as the brotherhood members are generally generous and help each other out whenever we can.
If the parts that are in your pictures are in your possession and are in good shape, reverse engineer them and make new molds from them. Whoops, I see that is what you intend to do if you can find the parts. If that is not possible, it may be time to carve new patterns for the molds from the plans.
If anyone here has a clue or any information, please get in touch with JoeAverage and help him out, it is at least the third time he has requested help in finding the molds.
In post 13613 I offered to sell the molds. The nature of them prevents me from wanting to send them across the border to be used as patterns and then sent back. Chances are they would not come back in the same shape for a myriad of reasons. No one contacted me to purchase them leaving me believing that they were only of interest to borrow for the purpose of copying.
When I have them sitting here in a couple of boxes why would I want more of them. It would have been easier for whoever wants them to buy them than make the 11 pieces that it takes to fab the 7 piece set of parts. 11 molds altogether as the cowl is a 3 piece mold.
Just for clarity, once again, I have all the molds for the 25% Effinger Waco D sitting here with all the other rare molds that other parts manufacturers do not have for the subjects I wanted to build when the molds became available for sale from the defunct parts builder.
I tried to make the Waco D parts available to the person who wanted them. READ my post.
I had a parts manufactufacturer make my parts from them. Making parts isn't as easy as just slapping resin and fabric in the molds. In my next post, the loud one, I could only assume that my offer to sell was no good. It seemed that unless I offerred to pack them up at my own expense and mail them off then I might get some interest.
Had I not gone through the posts to see if SuperCub Man was posting anymore ARE photos I would not have seen John's submission that again for the 3rd time I was looking for another another set of Waco D molds.
I can't sell the 25% Effinger Waco D molds I've got John. Mind you I only offered them for sale once. When no one accepted I was indignant. Guys here on this thread help each other out as you know. I have decided to use them for Pitts Samson parts, maybe. Go back and read 13613. I made 2 posts total regarding the said parts till now. If you find the 3rd request I made for these parts, let me know. If you find the find the first two requests I made wanting to buy these parts, let me know. Please. Just for clarity. Use quotes.
You are almost right about one thing. I'm not an esteemed member of the Brotherhood but I do have the molds and the green parts that the original seller made using that old polyester as well.
Best Regards.
04-07-2012, 05:52 AM
My Feedback: (1)
RE: WACO YMF
Hi Jaybird, There are 3 medium shirts available from the last navy blue run. Send $45 to: Mitch Epstein 651 N. Main St Leominster, MA
Include your name and address and I'll send them right out to you.
There are no other shirts available at this time. I'll talk over the next run (need orders for 50) with Bill. Thanks, Mitch WB100
Include your name and address and I'll send them right out to you.
There are no other shirts available at this time. I'll talk over the next run (need orders for 50) with Bill. Thanks, Mitch WB100
04-07-2012, 12:07 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: belleview,
FL
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
hey Mitch,I'd like to get two , XXL shirt's if you and Bill decide the demand warant's another run. I'd like one for myself and I'd like to send one to my father in-law, also a lover of all thing's WACO, for father's day... Thanks , I'll keep my eye on the forum to see what ya'll decide to do.
ORIGINAL: nine o nine
Hi Jaybird, There are 3 medium shirts available from the last navy blue run. Send $45 to: Mitch Epstein 651 N. Main St Leominster, MA
Include your name and address and I'll send them right out to you.
There are no other shirts available at this time. I'll talk over the next run (need orders for 50) with Bill. Thanks, Mitch WB100
Hi Jaybird, There are 3 medium shirts available from the last navy blue run. Send $45 to: Mitch Epstein 651 N. Main St Leominster, MA
Include your name and address and I'll send them right out to you.
There are no other shirts available at this time. I'll talk over the next run (need orders for 50) with Bill. Thanks, Mitch WB100
04-07-2012, 02:31 PM
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Smithfield,, VA
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: mrdhud
For those interested this is the cowl from fibertech n more for the 1/5 scale Waco YMF.
http://www.fibertechnmore.com/store/
For those interested this is the cowl from fibertech n more for the 1/5 scale Waco YMF.
http://www.fibertechnmore.com/store/
Joe
04-07-2012, 04:41 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Brunswick, ME
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Jay,
Your bottom wing incidence should be at zero. Your top wing will probably fall somewhere in the 1 degree range either plus or minus. I prefer minus one. The horizontal stab should be somewhere in the 2-2.5 degree range (positive) range. These will be good base numbers for you to start.
With the bottom wing set at zero (just block up the tail until the wing zeros out, and then go from there. Use the bottom wing as your base and everything else should fall in place. You can place a strip of tape along the fuse to represent the datum line then, and work out your engine thrust line from there. That's another thing that I don't like about a model that someone else built. You have to put too much trust into what they did. Everyone seems to think that the GP Waco flies well, so I'd say that they are following the instructions of whomever did the design work.
Jay,
Your bottom wing incidence should be at zero. Your top wing will probably fall somewhere in the 1 degree range either plus or minus. I prefer minus one. The horizontal stab should be somewhere in the 2-2.5 degree range (positive) range. These will be good base numbers for you to start.
With the bottom wing set at zero (just block up the tail until the wing zeros out, and then go from there. Use the bottom wing as your base and everything else should fall in place. You can place a strip of tape along the fuse to represent the datum line then, and work out your engine thrust line from there. That's another thing that I don't like about a model that someone else built. You have to put too much trust into what they did. Everyone seems to think that the GP Waco flies well, so I'd say that they are following the instructions of whomever did the design work.
Your numbers are right on. I dry fit everything together to show my father who was visiting for an early Easter dinner. With my incidence meters on it, it came out just as you said with the bottom wing at zero, top wing minus one and stab at positive 2-1/2. He was pretty impressed with the size and look of it.
Another question for the GP ARF owners. Has anyone tried unbolting the interplane strut brackets from the wing panels instead of the struts themselves? It occured to me that unbolting the bracket and leaving it attached to the strut would save having to handle the screws, washers and locknuts at odd angles to remove the strut per the insrtructions. It would also make them easier to identify right and left.
I also found the modification to the upper wing where they left the center panel bolted to the cabane struts and made the outer panels slide in and secure with a through bolt. I simulated it today and it works great.
Jaybird
04-08-2012, 03:35 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Capital Federal, ARGENTINA
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
Will someone have the wing and fuse tamplates? I have the plans, but I'm missing the templates 
I'm from Argentina, and I will really love to build the Wavo 1/5, I will really appreciate the help 
I'm from Argentina, and I will really love to build the Wavo 1/5, I will really appreciate the help
04-09-2012, 02:52 AM
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: maimer
Will someone have the wing and fuse tamplates? I have the plans, but I'm missing the templates I'm from Argentina, and I will really love to build the Wavo 1/5, I will really appreciate the help
Will someone have the wing and fuse tamplates? I have the plans, but I'm missing the templates
I'm from Argentina, and I will really love to build the Wavo 1/5, I will really appreciate the help
Did you buy the plans from the AMA? You might contact their plan department and inquire about purchasing the templates only.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
04-09-2012, 06:04 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: belleview,
FL
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Jaybird
Your numbers are right on. I dry fit everything together to show my father who was visiting for an early Easter dinner. With my incidence meters on it, it came out just as you said with the bottom wing at zero, top wing minus one and stab at positive 2-1/2. He was pretty impressed with the size and look of it.
Another question for the GP ARF owners. Has anyone tried unbolting the interplane strut brackets from the wing panels instead of the struts themselves? It occured to me that unbolting the bracket and leaving it attached to the strut would save having to handle the screws, washers and locknuts at odd angles to remove the strut per the insrtructions. It would also make them easier to identify right and left.
I also found the modification to the upper wing where they left the center panel bolted to the cabane struts and made the outer panels slide in and secure with a through bolt. I simulated it today and it works great.
Jaybird
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Jay,
Your bottom wing incidence should be at zero. Your top wing will probably fall somewhere in the 1 degree range either plus or minus. I prefer minus one. The horizontal stab should be somewhere in the 2-2.5 degree range (positive) range. These will be good base numbers for you to start.
With the bottom wing set at zero (just block up the tail until the wing zeros out, and then go from there. Use the bottom wing as your base and everything else should fall in place. You can place a strip of tape along the fuse to represent the datum line then, and work out your engine thrust line from there. That's another thing that I don't like about a model that someone else built. You have to put too much trust into what they did. Everyone seems to think that the GP Waco flies well, so I'd say that they are following the instructions of whomever did the design work.
Jay,
Your bottom wing incidence should be at zero. Your top wing will probably fall somewhere in the 1 degree range either plus or minus. I prefer minus one. The horizontal stab should be somewhere in the 2-2.5 degree range (positive) range. These will be good base numbers for you to start.
With the bottom wing set at zero (just block up the tail until the wing zeros out, and then go from there. Use the bottom wing as your base and everything else should fall in place. You can place a strip of tape along the fuse to represent the datum line then, and work out your engine thrust line from there. That's another thing that I don't like about a model that someone else built. You have to put too much trust into what they did. Everyone seems to think that the GP Waco flies well, so I'd say that they are following the instructions of whomever did the design work.
Your numbers are right on. I dry fit everything together to show my father who was visiting for an early Easter dinner. With my incidence meters on it, it came out just as you said with the bottom wing at zero, top wing minus one and stab at positive 2-1/2. He was pretty impressed with the size and look of it.
Another question for the GP ARF owners. Has anyone tried unbolting the interplane strut brackets from the wing panels instead of the struts themselves? It occured to me that unbolting the bracket and leaving it attached to the strut would save having to handle the screws, washers and locknuts at odd angles to remove the strut per the insrtructions. It would also make them easier to identify right and left.
I also found the modification to the upper wing where they left the center panel bolted to the cabane struts and made the outer panels slide in and secure with a through bolt. I simulated it today and it works great.
Jaybird
04-09-2012, 06:18 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Brunswick, ME
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
I found the thread back over on RC Groups. My plan is to run a lead up both cabanes. I've cut a second hole through the front cockpit and side to match the first one. I also plan modify the wing attachment by putting blocks inside the wing roots next to the dihedral brace boxes and putting in small brass 4-40 threaded inserts in from the bottom. I'll then use a nylon langing gear strap to connect the two pieces near both braces. That way the screws can go straight in and I don't have to angle one of the blocks to match the dihedral angle.
Here is the RC Groups thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post21223516
Made good progress with the covering iron last night, but there are some very stubborn spots on the tail and nose. Some of the covering is pretty sloppy and the cuts are ragged. The black leading edge and red stripes on the vertical fin run off to one side as they reach the top of the fuselage and don't match up with head rest piece.
Jaybird
Here is the RC Groups thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post21223516
Made good progress with the covering iron last night, but there are some very stubborn spots on the tail and nose. Some of the covering is pretty sloppy and the cuts are ragged. The black leading edge and red stripes on the vertical fin run off to one side as they reach the top of the fuselage and don't match up with head rest piece.
Jaybird
04-09-2012, 06:23 AM
Banned
RE: WACO YMF
"but I'm leaning towards using jb weld to permenantly attach the nuts to the struts themselves and just keeping the top wing in one piece.J
Just keep in mind that JB Weld is no more than epoxy with some black stuff added in for color.
Les
Just keep in mind that JB Weld is no more than epoxy with some black stuff added in for color.
Les
04-09-2012, 09:53 AM
RE: WACO YMF
Hello all,
Finished one wing tip on top wing looks good to me I’ll get Bill to check it out when I see him at Top Gun. I have traced a set of patterns and will post them as soon as I can scan them to my computer. You will see the front spar has been moved to the proper location and I have trimmed the ribs down so to use cap strips. I didn’t use cap strips on w-7 & w-8 felt it would be easer to final sand with out using cap strip. Using 1/8” dowel to support the tip bow made it vary solid.
Thank again Bill for all your help on getting to this point. Hopefully this will be of some help to others.
Finished one wing tip on top wing looks good to me I’ll get Bill to check it out when I see him at Top Gun. I have traced a set of patterns and will post them as soon as I can scan them to my computer. You will see the front spar has been moved to the proper location and I have trimmed the ribs down so to use cap strips. I didn’t use cap strips on w-7 & w-8 felt it would be easer to final sand with out using cap strip. Using 1/8” dowel to support the tip bow made it vary solid.
Thank again Bill for all your help on getting to this point. Hopefully this will be of some help to others.
04-09-2012, 10:29 AM
My Feedback: (35)
Join Date: May 2010
Location: , PA
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
Dan, wing tip mods look great. What did you use for spar material? Looks like plywood of some kind. I'm using Straight grain Southern yellow pine, very strong and light. great job on the wings. George
04-09-2012, 10:51 AM
RE: WACO YMF
Hi George,
I used 3/8 ply for the spars I felt a solid piece would be stronger then splicing pine and adding 1/8 ply to reinforce it. Time will tell.
I used 3/8 ply for the spars I felt a solid piece would be stronger then splicing pine and adding 1/8 ply to reinforce it. Time will tell.