Test Stand
#26
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RE: Test Stand
Yeah I think the tank the scientific stand have not been insolated for vibration. Also the engine is rigid mounted on an aluminum beam. It looks like the wooden mounts do a better job at dampening vibration than the rigid metal ones.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3pLk8cMSLI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3pLk8cMSLI
#29
RE: Test Stand
I'm a machinist and a welder..... I built these 2 over the years.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/ga...m?itemid=83366
http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/ga...m?itemid=83343
http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/ga...m?itemid=83366
http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/ga...m?itemid=83343
#32
RE: Test Stand
Black and Decker Workmate. You clamp your engine in the grooves on the edge of the boardsby the mounts. Just make sure the spacing on the boards is set so the back is slightly wider than the front. Otherwise you will have a fly away engine
Note, my MDS 61 did want to try to make the Workmate fly so I had to add some weight to it.
Double note, the Workmate also doubles as a work table
Note, my MDS 61 did want to try to make the Workmate fly so I had to add some weight to it.
Double note, the Workmate also doubles as a work table
#33
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RE: Test Stand
I attach my test stands to a work table similar to the workmate, but it has a hinged work surface so I can rotate the engine to vertical while it is running. When I have done this provedure using the same tank and possitioning as I use in the plane I have never had an engine perform differently in the plane than on the bench.
jess
jess
#34
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RE: Test Stand
If you have some basic metal working skills, this stuff is nice for making just about anything. The company I work for uses it for machine guarding, framework, stands etc. Once assembled it is very sturdy stuff. Kind of pricey but will probably last forever.
[link]http://www.8020.net/Default.asp[/link]
[link]http://www.8020.net/Default.asp[/link]
#36
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RE: Test Stand
Just a word of caution. The B&D work bench is kinda light. Be sure to put a big cinder block or even a bucket of water on the bottom step to make sure you have enough blast to take the engine thrust. BTW that is what I use too. My breakin stand is simple, Ihave a trainer type engine mount bolted on to a 2/4 inch piece of plywood. I have a another piece "teed" into that piece and use it for mount tanks. I then use an old control rod as a throttle link. It is simple but it works and it certainly is not a pretty as the above equipment. But then it cost me about $5 in materials and used glue that I use on the models to put it together. Oh yeah, I gave it a good coat of polyurethan varnish to protect it from the hot glow fuel.
Chip
Chip
#37
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RE: Test Stand
I bought an old metal tool stand from a fellow wood worker. Going to go pic it up this weekend.
I'm thinking about scrubbing it down with some SOS pads then hitting it with some fuel proof black paint.
I'm thinking about scrubbing it down with some SOS pads then hitting it with some fuel proof black paint.
#39
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RE: Test Stand
kwblake, I use a B&D work mate, and I have Made a folding shelf under the top. I have installed 3 12v dry cell batteries into a little playmate cooler and installed 2 9/16's bolts and nut on the top side ran wires to. Its heavy but last all week long with out charge.
I took 2 pieces of deck boards and drilled pilot holes in them then I use Sheetrock screws to hold the engines down. One end is for small, the other for large. I use 2 "C" clamps to hold the boards down to the mate, plus if you are tuning pipes, the clamp is a great securing spot for the pipe. I have a piece of foam to set the tank on and a bungee to secure it with.
When I test, the battery box goes on the on the bottom shelf the leads for the starter runs under neath for safety. Its at a good height to boot! It works for me. I hope it gives you some help.
Glen
I took 2 pieces of deck boards and drilled pilot holes in them then I use Sheetrock screws to hold the engines down. One end is for small, the other for large. I use 2 "C" clamps to hold the boards down to the mate, plus if you are tuning pipes, the clamp is a great securing spot for the pipe. I have a piece of foam to set the tank on and a bungee to secure it with.
When I test, the battery box goes on the on the bottom shelf the leads for the starter runs under neath for safety. Its at a good height to boot! It works for me. I hope it gives you some help.
Glen
#40
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RE: Test Stand
OK here is my new test stand.
The stand I got turned out to be more heavy duty than I had thought, which was nice!
From the pics on the site I got it from, it looked like just a flimsy, rusty old 28 ga. sheet metal stand.
Also the pics on the site made it look like the stand had rust on it. Turns out the stand is fully galvanized and rust free. No need for paint!
The stand is constructed out of 14 ga. sheet metal. The stand was made for mounting bench top power tools.
I weighed the stand and it came out to 25 pounds. This means I can break in motors under 4 HP and not worry about having to tie the stand down.
For 4 HP and over engines I'm thinking about digging a hole and placing an eye bolt welded to a metal frame in the hole then filling the hole in with concrete. I can then place the test stand directly over the eye bolt and run a twin hooked ratchet strap from the stand's frame to the eye bolt and ratchet the stand to the ground with 200 pounds of force.
One nice thing about this stand was that it had a mesh of bolting holes on the top. I easily bolted my old break in stand to one side for quick bolt downs of glow engines.
The other side has a 10x5 wood plate for mounting large engines.
I'm also thinking of making a universal 4x4 stand off plate for the 5x10 plate that will take electric and other engine mounts like a side mounted glow engine with a Pitts muffler.
This little $25 stand turned out to be well worth the 130 mile trip I had to take to get it. I wouldn't have bought it but the stand was located next to a huge outlet mall that my wife likes to shop at. I told my wife I was going to take her shopping at the outlet mall. Then later I told her I had to stop by a guy's house on the way there to pick up something.
The stand I got turned out to be more heavy duty than I had thought, which was nice!
From the pics on the site I got it from, it looked like just a flimsy, rusty old 28 ga. sheet metal stand.
Also the pics on the site made it look like the stand had rust on it. Turns out the stand is fully galvanized and rust free. No need for paint!
The stand is constructed out of 14 ga. sheet metal. The stand was made for mounting bench top power tools.
I weighed the stand and it came out to 25 pounds. This means I can break in motors under 4 HP and not worry about having to tie the stand down.
For 4 HP and over engines I'm thinking about digging a hole and placing an eye bolt welded to a metal frame in the hole then filling the hole in with concrete. I can then place the test stand directly over the eye bolt and run a twin hooked ratchet strap from the stand's frame to the eye bolt and ratchet the stand to the ground with 200 pounds of force.
One nice thing about this stand was that it had a mesh of bolting holes on the top. I easily bolted my old break in stand to one side for quick bolt downs of glow engines.
The other side has a 10x5 wood plate for mounting large engines.
I'm also thinking of making a universal 4x4 stand off plate for the 5x10 plate that will take electric and other engine mounts like a side mounted glow engine with a Pitts muffler.
This little $25 stand turned out to be well worth the 130 mile trip I had to take to get it. I wouldn't have bought it but the stand was located next to a huge outlet mall that my wife likes to shop at. I told my wife I was going to take her shopping at the outlet mall. Then later I told her I had to stop by a guy's house on the way there to pick up something.
#41
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RE: Test Stand
Here's my test stand. It works with all my Saito's from .40 to 1.80. I originally had it clamped to a workmate type sawhorse and it almost flew away when I throttled up my 1.80, so I got some 2" square tube that fit into my receiver hitch on my truck and welded a 1/4" plate to it. Now I bolt the stand to that and it slides into the hitch. It's about 4' long so it's clear of the tailgate.
#45
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RE: Test Stand
Like most projects, it's a work in progress. I'm thinking of modifying thetruck mount with a hinge and a 90 degree stop so I can go vertical with the engine running on the stand.
#47
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Response to rexracer and his test stand
I like your test stand. I've already started one using recirculating ball type linear guides and four receivers. Using a seriously high end high end load cell and an Omega DP87 Strain Gage Indicator. I will of course post pics as I go. I really like the engine mounts to the base on yours. Do you have slotted holes between the L-Bracket and Base for width adjustment? When I started I was shopping for similar digital scales but the accurate units were pricy. I picked up all of the hardware on eBay, guides, load cell and indicator. I would think It depends on the sampling rate of the indicator if you have a lot of harmonics. Do you have a lot of variations on the readings with this engine? I was going to dampen some harmonics with an elastomeric coupling between the sled and the load cell to dampen ghosting due to the sampling rate of the indicator and the harmonics of the engine. I have designed the one I am working on to read in both directions, push and pull.
#48
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I have a home made test stand made out of 3/4 plywood. Glued it together used a few times, modified it because of a four stroke engine. Used one one those universal engine mounts found in trainer kits, metal with clamp on bars to hold the engine in place. Later, I just used the airframe. Ran a Saito in the airframe using their recommend procedures and until I got it dialed in, them flew it. I am guessing I ran the Saito .91 for maybe 30 minutes, short runs. After I got the engine dialed in, I flew. No problems, still have the engine, still flying it. In the case to strokes, I bolt them into the airframe and go fly them. Most are ringless and need to get hot to really break in. I fly them, a little rich at first. After three or four flights, dial them in and fly them Never had a problem. So I kinda never use the test stand anymore. I had to dust it off to run one engine that was very tight. I heated the engine up with a heat gun, them fired it up. Ran it about 5 minutes. After that the engine was loose. So I flew it, no problems after that. BTW I always have some Castor oil in my fuels, maybe 2 to 4%, the rest synthetic oil. I attribute long life to the Castor used all the time, even in break ins.