airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

I flew the little spit this weekend but still have some work left on it. It is still to pitch sensitive. the elevator and rudder are very sharp at only .005-.007 thick. Anyway flew it with a GMS 47 turning a 10x7 at 14,800 ( one of my slow engines) and it was right at 128-130 range. i will rework the stab and rudder tonight and thinking of doing a YS 70 in it. Any thoughts on this. It has 407sq" right now the way you see it.

tdstaf

My Feedback: (11)

That should be a good combo. I'm working on some with that wing area and motor

Jimmy Skids

My Feedback: (2)

I have a 70.

tdstaf

My Feedback: (11)

I thought you were a 1.15 Guy????[X(]

Jimmy Skids

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actually a 1.20 guy, but I've been known to fly other stuff.

tdstaf

My Feedback: (11)

My bad, arn't those getting hard to come by?

You still want a spiteful sized for a 1.15 at some point?

Jimmy Skids

My Feedback: (2)

I have a decent collection of the 120's, and they are a little hard to come by, but not impossible. I believe a 1.15 size Spiteful might be a lot of fun to work on, but don't really have a lot of time to commit to projects at this time. I really liked the looks of the original. A 1.15 version would certainly haul the mail. Might have to work out a trade. Did you get your 1.40? I've got some of those also.
Jimmy Skids

pjakew

My Feedback: (4)

Speaking of 115s, I have a question about the mine. Here is a video segment that explains the scenario. Any help would be appreciated.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eufy2...ature=youtu.be

PLANEBENDER

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Jake, To do that job the right way contact Central Hobbys and get a puller. They sell them for about $10.00. Here is a link for you. PS, That washer is shot!

http://www.centralhobbies.com/Tools/tool1.html#DRIVE WASHER PULLER

Planebender

pjakew

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks Dave: I will order one ASAP. After you you remove it, how to you press the new one back on?

Jimmy Skids

My Feedback: (2)

Jake,
Ditto to Dave's comment. You will need a puller, and while you are at it get a new drive washer YS4325. The puller available at Central will work, but you really want something like the posi lock 103 puller.... it's not cheap but works every time. If you need help next time you are in Sacramento let me know and I can give you a hand. Also, I'll show you how to do the valves and then you can make your own video.... I'm camera shy.

Lastly, you may want to incorporate the "Skids Foundation" method for drive washer protection. When using a metal back plate against the drive washer of a YS motor, I install a nylon washer (found at OSH or any other hard ware store) that can be inserted between the drive washer and back plate. When you tighten down the prop/nut combination, the nylon is compressed between the spinner and drive washer. If you do have your prop spin loose the nylon washer will be destroyed, but you will save your drive washer.
Jimmy Skids

Jimmy Skids

My Feedback: (2)

Load the back plate, then prop, then washer and nut and tighten it up.... you'll be good to go.
Jimmy Skids

pjakew

My Feedback: (4)

Far out fellas, thanks for the input!

ChrisAttebery

My Feedback: (15)

I've been rebuilding motors for 15 years or so. I have a battery terminal puller from Sears that I use to pull drive washers. I put it on and tension the puller, then hit the washer with a propane torch. It will pop right off. That one from Central looks like a POS. Get one that squeezes the arms together as it pulls, like this:
[link]http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4611[/link]

Good luck,


Chris

Jimmy Skids

My Feedback: (2)

Chris,
I used to have one of those. They do work well, in fact I believe better than the Central one (I've had both). I ended up having the one you show break when the drive washer was really on tight. I don't use the torch method... probably would blow up my garage with my luck.
Jim

ChrisAttebery

My Feedback: (15)

Heat is your friend when disassembling motors. Bearings will fall out, sleeves that are seemingly welded into a case slide out, drive washers that have been over tightened on collets magically pop right off.

I've had that same battery terminal puller for at least 15 years and it still works fine.

I know the feeling on the use of flame in the garage. At one point I had 3-4 cases of 60% fuel, K sized rocket motors, automotive paint and black powder in my garage.

Jimmy Skids

My Feedback: (2)

Hearing you on the flame part, but I'm more worried about me being accident prone than the fuel issue.... plus I don't want to blow up my car. I do use a heat gun from time to time on the bearings. I was able to find some of the posi lock pullers on Ebay one time for cheap and bought 3 of them for about what one normally runs. I kept one for myself and gave two away to good friends. One of which went to our local YS doctor. He swears by it now. The one I have is the 103 which is a 3 jaw puller. There is also a 2 jaw version which would probably work almost as well.
Skids

pjakew

My Feedback: (4)

Video Update:

Drive washer replaced and review of Central Hobbies washer puller.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7dGQj1AbWY

skymasterone

Instead of heat I tighten the puller on the drive washer and strike it with the handle of a screw driver. It pops right off! No heat to set the workshop on fire.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

as skymaster has suggested this method works well. The thing to remember is to not hit the crankshaft end with anything hard. its best to put the nut on the end and lave the cranshaft just below the nut then you can strike it with a brass hammer. Do not use a dead blow and as it doesnt work with this method.

Jimmy Skids

My Feedback: (2)

The only thing I hit my motors with is NITRO.... and of course every once and awhile.... the ground. [&o]

skymasterone

I TAP the side of the drive-washer. No need to get brutal with your engine.

DonStegall

My Feedback: (1)

Jimmy,

Thanks for the Posi Lock info. I've been looking for a decent long reach puller and both the 103 and 203 say they have a 3" reach [link]http://www.posilock.com/ManPullers/man103opt.htm[/link]

Jimmy Skids

My Feedback: (2)

After speaking with a couple friends the recommendation is for the 103, which is the 3 jaw puller. It's 10-15 dollars more than the 2 jaw.
Jimmy Skids

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Jimmy, I finally made it to Sheldons. No luck on the mount. I do have machining contacts and can check the possibilities of a billet mount.