Zorba1

Hey Zeeb, been there done that.
I don't know about the ARF version back on my ARC version I took off the pins from the hinges, remove the doors
and hone the holes with a bit bigger drill bit.
Re-install the pins and voila..

Bill

JamesPool

My Feedback: (3)

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Zeeb:
One other thing you can do is relocate the attachment point for the tail wheel's air cylinder. I moved mine out about 1-2 hole diameters from the original hole. By doing this, you improve the mechanical advantage of the system, thus making the tail wheel deployment even more reliable. NOTE: If you move it too far, you can get into a situation where the tail wheel doesn't lock when the cylinder is extended, but this is easy to figure. Does this make sense?

Also, Irecommend checking the assembly of the tail wheel's shock. My shock adsorber came unscrewed during my 1st flight and Ihad to land without a tail wheel (no big deal on grass). 290 Loctite is self-wicking and is perfect for securing already assembled parts.

Best
James

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Zorba;

Thanks for the thoughts. It looks to me like there isn't really a way to get the pins out of the hinges without tearing stuff out and even if you did get enough room to get the pins out you'd have a tough time getting in there with a drill bit. After seeing your post I went and looked at the hinges in the sunlight and while my initial thought was that one of them was out of line, it looks like both the center and rear hinge are binding. If you open the door and just move it back and forth a tiny bit, you see those two hinges moving toward and away from the side of the fuselage so it probably is an issue of the hinges themselves being tight rather than an alignment problem.

James;

IIRC we had an exchange after the incident with your tailwheel? Any way I checked the cylinder when I pulled the tailwheel out to change the airlines and it seemed okay. When I got it reinstalled with the new airlines I used my test rig and pressurized the new lines and tailwheel actuator with a 100psi. and it only lost 10psi. in 24 hours or so I figured it'd be workable. I'll say that since my rx is installed on a plate I made which sits on top of the rudder servo and almost all of the electrical wires and the airlines are attached to that plate in their harnesses, it'd be a pain to pull that tailwheel out again not to mention re-doing the cables for the steering. So.... if that puppy has to come out again (the tailwheel) it's going to get replaced with a Robart. I almost did that at the time but money was a bit tight so I passed, right now I'm kind of wishing I had found the necessary funds.

jp02

Hello Zeeb,

Can youtell me if themodulemarked byaquestion mark isafail-safeair?
If so,tell methank you forthe referenceand a link tothe store oryou bought it.

Thank you in advance.
JP

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

No that is a fiber optic kill switch control/sending unit.

If you're looking for the low air pressure device which drops the landing gear if the air pressure gets too low, check over this thread as I believe Russ has one installed on his model. Or you could check with BVM Jets is probably the place I'd look first for such a device.

http://www.bvmjets.com/

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

jp02

The one I have been using is from TamJets and it very easy to set up and use. Great peace of mind in case of air leak

http://www.tamjets.com/gearfailsafe.php

You can get it a DreamWorks also, great people to deal with.

http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/gear...afe-p-804.html

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Okay, 'nuther question; what are you guys doing with the funky wing ordinance pylons?

The ones I have bear little resemblence to the ones in the manual having the tangs found on a full scale to stabilize the ordinance or drop tank. There's a whole package of hardware, no instructions. The little tangs are threaded on the end and I'm guessing the button head stainless steel 1/2" screws are supposed to be the snubbers?

If that's the case it seems to me it'd wear holes in either the drop tanks or bombs? Plus the things hang out there ready to snag somthing when you're not looking...

So I'm wondering what you guys have done? Is this change for looks or does the model need it to fly with the drop tanks? I'm considering just cutting off those tangs on the pylon?

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Zeeb, Helpful note: (if you don't mind) In the first picture, move the pushrod down on the servo arm to the innermost hole that will still clear the skin of the wing. This will make for a much smoother feel on the sticks and you won't have to crank your EPA down to much.

Kelly

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Well I appreciate the thought but in the case of this model it's not a situation of the ball link hitting the surface of the wing being the limiting factor like it would be with an IMAC bird. Here it's the length of the slot cut into the hatch holding the servo. Cut that slot longer and you run out of hatch....

So... it's got better than a 1 to 1 arm on the thing and those are big Hitec digitals which are programmed for the shorter travel so I still get good travel limits set in the radio. With the 2048 resolution I don't anticipate issues but who knows for sure 'till it gets flown?

You're a Warbird guy, what do you think about my pylon question? This thing isn't anywhere near scale enough to worry about those stabilization tangs to make them worth the hassle is it? I can't see anyway to use the button head screws an not damage the tanks/bombs, and with those off the tangs just hang out there asking to hook something while I'm trying to move the wing around in the house.

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Here's a pic of a full scale (Febuary) note the stabilizers are not on this one.

I would think that if you snug them down on the tank that they wouldn't move and dig in to much. However, I'm not familier with the areoworks plane.
Kelly

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Well it's been an interesting week. The issue with the tailwheel gear doors turned out to be a single hinge out of the three on each side, causing the problem. The hinge pins use a serrated section near one end which locks the pin into one side of the hinge so only the other side pivots. There are two segments on each side and one of those was tight enough to cause the problem. I couldn't see any glue on it so I measured the pin and got out my drill bits, works fine now. The other part of the problem is that the little doubler which provides some wood for the screw holding the elastic straps was rattling around in the fuselage. There is a big gob of glue where the stringers join near the tail where that doubler is supposed to fit, so they just shoved it under the lip of the hinge. Since that screw wasn't into any wood, that rear elastic strap was 1/2" longer than the others and not providing any tension on the open gear door but the front strap was quite a bit shorter to try and pull the door closed with the bad hinge.

It's fixed.

The outer gear door on the one side that's given me fits started showing some issues as I cycled the gear during setup, so I ordered and extra set of gear doors and hinges since I figured it'd need replacing somewhere. As it turned out I broke that gear door loose while trying to tweak the hinge and I was successful in getting the pins I put it in drilled out and removed. The new hinges are loose compared to the one on the other gear door as well as the hinge that I crimped on the bad side. One half of that hinge was still quite firmly attached to the wing from my last effort and it was much tighter than either of the new hinges, so I tweaked the hinge angle and reinstalled the door. The issue has been two disimilar arcs trying to meet in one place and this side the problem is compounded by the fact that the hinge pin axis was not aligned with the gear, so there is a disimilar angle of the disimilar arcs.

It's fixed.

The drop tank pylons with the little stabilizer arms turns out to be something AW thought was supposed to be there and my thought about using the included 1/2" button head screws into those arms and adjusted to stabilize the tanks or bombs turned out to be correct. I didn't like that idea as the material in the drop tanks is so thin I can't see a screw head not wearing a hole in the tank from vibration. Since Kelly provided a picture of a full scale and it doesn't have those stabilizer arms, I cut 'em off. They're made of solid aluminum and a bit of a chore to cut off and I suppose if one were to be finicky about appearance it would be worse. I just cut 'em off as close as I could get and painted the ends. The tanks do wobble a bit on the pylons so I used a bit of velcro between the tank and the pylon to take up some space and stabilize the tank, I think it's going to be fine but I'll just watch it if I get to flying it with the tanks installed.

It's fixed.

Trying to slow down the gear door deployment with the adjustable Robart valves has given me fits. You can only adjust outflow air from the cylinder, not output air to the cylinder so they're not a ver fine adjustment capability. Combine that with the fact that the gear door valve only controls those two tiny actuators on the doors and things get tricky. When I took it out to the garage to balance it the other day it was in the mid thirties temperature range. After sitting there for about an hour the gear doors didn't want to open again.... UGH! So I opened up the discharge bleed on the Robart valve a bit and put some of the BVM light oil in those lines. It's working great in the shop again but I won't know if I fixed the problem in the cold until I can get it outside in the garage again, but I think I've got it figured out.

I called AW about the CG measurement as I've never seen a model with an exact specification rather than a small range. They told me I could go plus or minus 1/4".
So I marked the wing and my friend came over to help. It's d*mn near perfect! Just very slightly nose heavy, maybe a 1/16" of an inch forward of the specified 2 3/4" and I like a slightly forward CG for the Maiden flight.

Still got a couple of tinker things to do and the engine needs to be run, tuned and it's done. But that won't happen 'till it warms up around here.... lol

Thanks for all the help guys, this has been a real learning experience for an IMAC guy.

jp02

Hello,

Ialmostfinished editingmyMustang, I amtheradio setup.
Iwould like to knowif there'samixofcompensation forthe depthwith the flaps?

Sorry formy bad English.

DAVE KEPHART

My Feedback: (13)

is It just me or does the disc not say anything about installing the horizantal stab?Its not rocket science,so I'm sure I can handle it.merely an observation AEROWORKS...

Mark Dennis

My Feedback: (4)

Stab installation can be found on page 78 steps 5 & 6. We include it in the preflight prep section because many customers need to remove the stabs for transport.

Mark

DAVE KEPHART

My Feedback: (13)

I stand corrected ,thank you.I thought I saw reference to it when I read through the first time ,but after finishing the tail section I didn't read much past to find it.

thanks again

Dave
www.abdave.com

DAVE KEPHART

My Feedback: (13)

is the resistor extention running off the retract deal absolutely neccesary?I have misplaced mine.If it is where is the best place to get one?

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Okay going off memory here as those extra papers are long gone.

IIRC there was along with the bigger diameter wood "washers" for the wing mounting, an addendum about that piece and I'm not sure but think it was RF related, saying it was not required and not included. If you look closely at the sequencer used in the manual which was a prototype model I believe, the sequencer in the model you have is different than the one pictured in the manual.

In any event, mine doesn't have one...

DAVE KEPHART

My Feedback: (13)

You are correct Zeeb, the early version sequencer required a resistor,but not on the newer ones.
Next question is,How to mex the elevator halves on my 9cap?Iv'e done it before using a flap elev. mix,but flaps are being used.Any suggestions?

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Hmm....

I've been speaking JR for way too long to rember much about Futaba 9C programming...

I never set that radio up for a model with flaps except for the small trainer I keep around and it didn't have multiple elevator or multiple flap servos. IIRC, the only way to enable the dual elevator servos and have trim following is to use the elevator flap mix. There were some guys who came up with a mix to move the second elevator servo to the #5 channel rather that #8 which did eliminate some of the horrible dual elevator lag on that radio which just about drove me crazy on my aerobats. Now that precise mix wouldn't work for you as you're using the flap channel but perhaps the techique on another channel?

So I suggest looking through the Futaba section of the main radio forum as well as the main radio forum. Aren't there some guys over on the Warbird forum who've tackled this issue as well?

Sorry I cannot be of more help.

DAVE KEPHART

My Feedback: (13)

,Thanks You gave me an Idea.I'll move the flaps to an aux channel and use the flap /elev mix,which is what I'm using on my Comp-arf right now.It works great and I can adjust either servo for better trim.Zeeb your a genius and you didn't even know.Thanks again.

smperry

My Feedback: (4)

I'm having issues with the screws holding the spinner to the backplate.

They have a tendency to break off. First time one broke off, there was enough of the shank left above the edge of the backplate to get a grip on and remove. Not so lucky the second time, it snapped off dead even with the surface of the backplate.

Has anyone else had a similar problem with the spinner screws? I don't have an easy out for 2-56 size and hand drilling a steel screw in an aluminum plate seems like a recipe for disaster. Short of removing the backplate and somehow clamping it in a drill press, does anyone know a trick that might work to get this thing out?

Thanks
sp

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

SP,

The only solution I can think of is to rotate the spinner 90 degrees and redrill new holes. As long as the prop holes line up with with the backplate and engine, I think it should work. Not sure why your screws are breaking tho? Only trouble I've had is the head of the screw getting messed up, but I bought a bunch of them and just replace them. Worse comes to worse, I think I have an un-drilled (prop holes) back plate I can send you.

smperry

My Feedback: (4)

Russ

Thanks. I'd be happy to pay the going rate + shipping for a new backplate. Knowing that one is available without buying the whole spinner assembly emboldens me to attempt extracting the broken screw.

I just finished fixing some tail wheel issues and the old hangar queen was all ready to go to the field when I spotted the broken screw in the spinner. Now that I seem to have a handle on that, I wonder what she'll throw at me next....and if I can catch it in time to prevent a disaster. Common sense dictates I should have unloaded this model a long time ago, but I let it get personal and I got determined to make it all work. I've dumped way too much money into it and if I sold it now, I have no doubt whomever bought it would tell me he found no problems and then go on to fly the model for years :-) So I'll just keep plugging away until the model runs out of issues. Making this thing work has become kind of a hobby within a hobby.

I'll holler at you if I end up needing the new backplate.

Thanks again
sp

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

Ha! I could have written that last post!! You're right, seems as if you fix one problem another shows up. I too have way too much time and money in this one to get rid of it, besides, it just flies and looks so good! I had trouble with my gear door sequencer and finally just replaced it with a Jet-Tronics unit. Works flawlessly now. Think I've finally got everything fixed. Flew 5 flights on Sat and 4 on Sun last weekend without 1 issue at all!
Just let me know if you need the back plate.

smperry

My Feedback: (4)

ROTFL

The dang thing flies great when it flies. I still haven't installed my new inner gear doors. The original sequencer was one of the few items that gave no trouble once we figured how to set it up. Now I have the sequencer that came with my Down & Locked upgrade. I want to get a few flights in before installing and setting up the doors. If can get them working, then the model will be fully functional again.

sp