Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

Am working on the model again...First thing I had to do is exchange the kit fuel tanks, and installed Sullivan RST 10 oz fuel tank..The ones that came with the kit are only 8 ozs....had to modity it a bit,but did get it done...To me 8.0 ozs isn't enough fuel for a good flight.

Next thing I have noticed is both engines are off-set for right thrust....Have built several twins in the past and always set the right engine up at 2.0 degrees right thrust and the left one at 0-0 or 2.0 degrees left thrust on the left engine...like to have your opinion on this matter. Would appreciate and help on this matter........

Thanx

Jimmie B

Acetronics

Hi,

By the time, I also designed the lighting system for the comanche ( based upon a YTube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4drCw...eature=related )...

Halas ... as .zip files can't be uploaded here [&o] ... you'll have to ask for the Processor files and drawings !!!

You'll note there are 2 versions of the circuit : one for 4/5 cells supply and one for more cells or LiPos with an included voltage reg for the Pic ...

shown model in pics is the one w/o regulator.

Alain

eclipse3g

My Feedback: (5)

Do you mean stock Seagull Twin Comanche struts or you used different struts to connect them to E-Flite retract wires?

c_nut

The Stock struts that come with the kit are easy to modify, simply remove the 3 grub screws, pull the top off and punch out the 5mm wire. Then you can mount to a straight 5mm wire and onto your retract unit.

I'm doing the same thing on another thread (nitro version)The e-flite nose gear unit has a 4mm wire so I will bush it with brass or aluminium tube.

Acetronics

+1

I exactly did what CNut describes ...

front gear is 4 mm ( 3.96 ? ) dia ... so, I used 4 mm wire on its side.
front damper is 4.5mm , so, I re- drilled it to 5 mm, and placed a 4x5 mm brass tube as a bushing ( locked on wire with Loctite 601 adhesive )

same job for main gear ... but with 5 and 6 mm for diameters ...

decent Compasses have been made from an old PC supply aluminium heat sink ...

eclipse3g

My Feedback: (5)

Thx Acetronics and c_nut

Quigleywins

Well yesterday I aquired the E flite retracts and today I will spend some time fitting. Now the problems as the wire in the kit supplied struts is 5.5 mm I will drill the E flite retracts out to take the 0.5 mm extra. to me this is the easy way around this.
Now to the people that have fitted the E flite retracts,how much packing did you place under the mounts to help with the clearance on the wing as I"m not keen on removing to much of the rib suport that is giving the strength to the landing gear mount. when the unit is placed in the position required more clearance is required between the top of the retract and the wing rib

c_nut

Hey Paul, I was hoping my retracts would arrive today but they did not. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

The rest of my build is progressing nicely and I should be able to move on to the retracts as soon as they arrive so perhaps we can figure out the solution together.

Craig

Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

Here are a few pics of mine...Already assemble and still needs to be balanced and have both engines broken in...The engines are in a Great Planes "Escapade 40", and the engines I.m using are Magnum XLS46R...Am using E-Flite 60-120, electric retracts No problems on the main gear,but the nose unit was a problem....I set it up as per instructions (Retracting the nose wheel and the doors closing behind it) and it was a pain in the butt, getting it right...Do have pics of building the model.so if you care to see them, just ask and I'll put them on...BTW,am using 42 % Micro-Glow V-6-R2 unit on the engines. If you get one,please have it a assemble...So Here are a few pics of the model........................

c_nut

Hey Jimmy, looks like you have used the e-flight 60-20 units as supplied. I imagine that would have been a challenge particularly with the nose gear. (offset due to the torsion spring)

What most of us are doing is modifying the retracts to accept the oleo struts from the kit. The advantage for the nose gear is that everything is kept on the centreline which will make the gear doors work as expected.

Trying to get the doors closed evenly with your offset leg would have ben a nightmare

Let us know when she fly's

Craig

Quigleywins

Well ,had a bad day. first I was going to drill the E flite retracts to take the supplied struts. Now I then checked the length and where they will be when retracted,well look at the photo. There is a lot of work required to make this work so now I'm back to the original eflite legs,much easier. The way that they will be fitted is I will pack the mounts down to give the clearance required in the wing. I will not be cutting any part of the wing rib that was in the way. Strength wise ,for me this is the best way to go.
The first phot shows the unit in place,
The second shows the heightn that it will need to be packed.
The third is the rib that I'm not going to narrow down.
Yours Paul The morning should be better.

c_nut

Looks like a challenge Paul, I'm looking at my struts and your photos. Thought about shortening the struts but it looks like there wouldn't be enough strut left after cutting to the required length.

Next thought is to relocate the wheel well cutout to a position appropriate to the strut length

Final thought is to relocate the retract mounting position and strengthen as required.

I guess I need to wait till my retracts arrive and then I can have a look.

Alain, I notice from your photos that you have mounted your struts to the retracts, what are you doing about this problem ??????

(I'm not going to sleep tonight am I hahahahahahahahahaha)

Craig

nioa

I have a thread of the Seagull Piper Twin Comanche 46 ARF on RCGroups that may be of interest.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1547957

You can see how I did my retracts in Post #4
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...84&postcount=4

What I don't show ( and need to) is the doors closed, and that the wheel is entirely retracted into both the nose bay and main bays.

Hope this helps,

Nick

Quigleywins

Thanks Nioa I was going to ge there ,as we do. had a look at your thread and quickly put the instructions in the fire,best place for them all I need to know is on line with better photos Yours Paul T PS not much more work and the first wing will be complete.

thailazer

JB... I've
JB.. I've built a lot of twins and I have ended up just setting them at 0 degrees R/L and 0 degrees down thrust. Would be interested to see what the high time twin drivers say about this. The down thrust at 0 is easy as the props are so close to the CG on a twin. Right/left though might depend a lot on a specific model, but I found 0 degrees to work the best for normal flying and for the odd engine out flight on Otters, Commanders, and Tiger Cats Those ships have large vertical stab areas though so maybe that is why I can get away with that.

eclipse3g

My Feedback: (5)

Hi guys,

I’ve just eventually bought the kit.
Question:
Which e-flite nose retract do I need to purchase (main retracts after – the budget )? I found 2 of them on e-flite site
1.
http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...odID=EFLG41190
2.
http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...dID=EFLG411105
Do I need something else for it? I mean the leg and something to connect a steering servo for it.

c_nut

good question, you can use either......... but you will probably need less modifications if you use the 105 degree because the extra 15 degrees of rotation will help get the wheel deeper into the fuselage when retracted.

I have the tricycle set which comes with the 90 degree rotation and I will be documenting my setup on another threadhttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11027843/tm.htm

Alain is also posting on both threads, he has the 105 degree front unit and we are both adapting the original oleo struts to fit the retracts so keep an eye on both threads and you should find a solution that suits either retract unit.

Happy building
Craig

eclipse3g

My Feedback: (5)

Thank you Craig

Quigleywins

Today I only did a little on the Commanche ,I looked at what Nick did to get the nose gear in place and thought instead of cutting the front out I could use a chissle to split the ply that the mechanical retracts sit on. Now I removed about 3/4 of the block this way as it splits like cheap ply does. Now I think with a little work I can also place that plate under the block to mount the gear to.I will need to make the gap in the centre wider so the under side of the E fite retract can clear. All is looking good thanks to Nick and Craig.I'll be away this week end so no more work till Monday night.

m1morrow

My Feedback: (3)

Looks like the fa55 will be light enough but just stick out of the cowls according to specs.  Do both the .46ax's and the 55ax's fit inside the cowls?

nioa

You're very welcome Q.

I'm glad you had success chipping out the block, but don't be afraid to cut into the model if you have to. No one will see the mod, and as long as you properly add back the reinforcement, the airframes strength will not be compromised.

One thing too, that prompted me to take the extreme, is that the Retract needs to be mounted on an even, flat, surface. The retract will probably bind if it is tightened down on even a slightly un-even surface. Originally, I was not sure that I could get a good mount from the limited access. It is difficult that way.

Nick

RCGroups Post 4

neilh2

I Juist got my twin commanchee arf from Horizon. Nice model but the details for the electrical option are very limited. I plan to use two E flite 32 motors. The instructions dont even discuss the main motor battery installation or where it goes. There is no other place than the fuse via the belly access hatch. I hope that will balance up ok. Also the retracts are controlled from a servo in the fusealage. Makes it difficult to take the plane in the car with wings installed. I plan to install a servo in eash wing for the mains and one in the fuse for the nose. Then I can transport the plane without wings installed. I would appreciate any words of wisdom to help me with this model

JoeMamma

Just jumped back into finishing up my Twin Comanche.

Got a couple of questions for you fellahs that have already finished yours. Couldn’t find an answer in the assembly manual.

Seagull Models supplied two different sets of wooden engine mounting boxes. One set is for glow engines and the other is for electric power.

I’m mounting a set of O.S. .72 4-strokers, so I’m using the set of wood boxes designed for glow engines. Was wondering if anybody found out if there is a difference between the left and right wooden box ?

I have found there are a few very small differences between the two glow engine boxes, but either box seems to fit either wing. How about you electric guys. Did you find a difference between the left and right wooden box for electric power ? There was no left/right identification on any of the wooden boxes.

I have the same problem with the fiberglass cowls. They also were not marked left or right. Either cowl seems to fit either wing OK, but there are a few small differences between the two cowls.

I sure wish they would have ID’ed them in the assembly manual as either left, or right, or the same ??

Thanks,
Joe M.

neilh2

Disaster. first flight I cut the power too much on the final approach. Totaled a beauty. Gonna
go for another kind of twin

Quigleywins

neilh2 I know the feeling and feel for you.
Joe mine had the letter R inside one Cowl in black lead and L in the other on the top, half way down.
One day I will get back to it.