Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I would go over the plane, check connections and wires, and do a good range check. It was probably something like that frayed wire. Futaba can fix the rx if necessary, but a frayed aileron wire sounds suspicious.

Bill Clark

Lab, probably woudnt hurt to reseat all the connectors and inspect them

lablover

Must of just read your minds. I replaced all extensions and went over all connectors. I reaseated all connections on the rx and used a little shoe goo to keep em in place. Something I do with my helis....they vibrate a lot. Gonna try again tonight. Just realized as well Ihave the 18x10 prop on my hacker. Isee you guys trying the 18x12. Is this ok on the hacker Ihave with 8S set up? what does the 18x12 do for me? HAcker A50 16L

APC or Xoar?

Rendegade

I quite like the 18x10 prop on mine.

A50-16L on 85 pulls about 75A max power with an APC 18x10E (v1)

Rendegade

I probably should have (or shoudn't) have mentioned this before, but I had something equally fun happen to me with one of the orange RX ( channel) spektrum rx's.

Fly along with my little sunday hack, rolling, showing one of the interested guys about getting the timing right for the rudder and elevator stick inputs, when it suddenly starts to roll the OTHER WAY and goes through about 4 rolls before it decides it's my turn again.

I landed and promptly threw the receiver in the bin.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

APC is really the best bang for the buck. They are great performing props and are at a good price point. I just started playing with some Xoar props; they are nice, but my first feeling is that the APC gives a little more thrust and feels like it has a little more 'bite'. I only got the Xoar because they have an 18x13 and I needed a higher pitch prop for a motor with a low kV.

Props are most efficient at low RPM, and the benefit of (outrunner) electric motors is torque/throttle response, so the most efficient setup is a larger, higher pitched prop.

3D guys like big, flat pitched props for instantaneous throttle response, for pulling out of hovers or better control in high alpha maneuvers. There is some benefit to that but the extra RPM uses up a lot of energy. I feel a bit of that with the 14L and 18x10, which is why I want to try the 18x12 and see how it feels at lower RPM.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I also learned from my low kV motor what it's like to be limited by prop selection - the 210kV motor on the Wind (10S) was really slow with 18x12 and 19x12, and there are no 14pitch props in this size range. The motor was pulling like 50A, so it was a waste of available power and weight. The Neu is geared to 220kV, but is also really efficient. HUGE difference in performance. The 8S Hacker setup feels the best.

eskriste

New Wind soon ready for maiden:

Motor: Hacker C50-14 XL
ESC: Jeti Masterspin PRO99 OPTO
Servo Ailron, Rudder: Futaba BLS 451
Servo Elevator: Futaba S9650



Rudder and receiver plate. Have to secure the cables.



Battery packs. Custom made carbon plates. Got 6 packs Turnigy nano-tech for training and 2 packs with Hyperion for competition. Receiver battery is Hacker top fuel.




Hacker C50-14 with custom made motor mount, made a better mounting for the esc also.



Canopy lock from Espirit Model. A lot of job but well worth the time and money.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I haven't had any luck with wood screws securing the rear mount. Had issues with the stock rear mount, and issues with a custom rear mount on my Neu motor.

I'm working on re-installing the Neu, still scratching my head on what to do with the rear mount.

UltraBob

Do they vibrate loose Joe or just hard to tighten, or.....?

UltraBob

I'm using the stock rear mount on the stock Hacker....I used those little allen head servo screws (1/2") with the built in washer from Don's Hobby Shop. Right before the screw head is seated, with a little thread still showing, I put a very small drop of canopy glue on them and then tightened them. Kind of like thread lock for wood I guess. You can still get them out if needed though. Plus being allen head you can use a ball end driver to negotiate the angle, etc.....

Seems to hold just fine.....

Bob

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks Bob.
They vibrate loose. Found some missing when I had the stock mount, and heard a change in my motor during a humpty when my custom mount came loose.

I'll try the canopy glue - that would let me use another custom mount I have for the rear and would look really nice

UltraBob

Good luck Joe. Hope it works out for ya.

Are you near Lunken Field at all? I fly our guys in there 2 or 3 times a year...........

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Right in the landing pattern, maybe 2-3miles away. Gear is usually down by the time the get over my house.

I love that place. There's a little Cherokee there that seems to need a new home

UltraBob

Next time I'm there I'll give ya a shout and we'll grab a burger or something........

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Sounds great! People around here talk about the diner that's in the main building, but I'm sure I can think of other places for a good burger

david hancock

Good day, I am putting in a Scorpion 4035-250 in my 110. I have been reading pages and pages and I am confused about a rear support that is mentioned. I was going to just mount the motor to the firewall and hook up the ESC. What is this rear support people mention. There is nothing in the Scorpion box that looks like a rear support for the motor. Do I require a rear support? Appreciate any help. Thanks.

Velco

I had a Scorpion 4035-250 in my plane on 10S and 17x10 TLE prop and it did not last very long, magnets unglued. After that I have put AXI 5220 249kV and currently I am spinning an 18x10 TLE but I think it can take an 18x12 XOAR.

Rear support or norear support that motor is a crap.

Velco

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Scorpion has redesigned the motors since our magnet problems.
The rear support comes with the airplane. It is a plywood frame with a bearing which holds the rear portion of the motor shaft. I would make a new support from a strip of carbon plate. It only needs 2 screws.

david hancock

Thanks Joe. So you would run it with the support? And yes the motors have been redesigned.

Flyer88

Try a 50/65/270 Turnigy
Im turning a 18/12 or 19/12
With fantastic results.
About 2300 watts @ 70amp on 8s

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I did not use the rear support with an outrunner, after the support was damaged in flight.

david hancock

Flyer 88, are you running the rear support in your set-up?

jmcmike

My Feedback: (45)

Hey Guys,

I have moved up to a 2 meter plane so im not going to build my wind 110,red version. It is new in the box and was only taken out to inspect. Also have the recomended hacker motor also NIB that could go with it. Thought I would check here first before I post it for sale in the classifieds.


Thanks,
Mike

silva916

HELLO flyer88

Ar you using the SK serie or the NTM Propdrive from Turnigy ?

Gr Frank