wed-subawu

My Feedback: (1)

And the finished product. I used an Enya 46 4-stroke, Ultracote & Ultratrim covering and fibreglass wheelpants from Aeroglass. I had to add a few ounces of nose weight to balance it correctly, so make every effort to keep the tail light (I didn't). The design is certainly rugged enough to handle a larger engine, too.

I've flown it a dozen times now, and it flies great. Ground handling is excellent with the wide track and long "wheelbase". It's not high-powered with the Enya 46, but very satisfying. I like doing low, slow passes with it. Thanks to Seamus for starting this thread, it was a big help to me.

John

acdii

I like what you did with the nose. I used the same tail gear, but since it was a replacement for the original, I used a pushrod bent from the inside then out through the bottom. Not as neat looking as yours, but still works.  I thought this gear would be too small, but it works just fine.  This really is a nice flying plane, especially with an OS 52 on it.

SeamusG

Nicely done wed.

Seems that it would be nice if SIG would provide a tri-cycle / tail dragger option in their kit plans. It would be pretty darn simple to add some more "lines" to the plans and a couple of paragraphs in the manual.

I did a Bridi Killer Chaos that had just that option.

repirazz

Wed- That's one of the sweetest LTs I've seen in a long time. Nice work! Do ya still have the part# for them wheelpants?

Hopin' ta give my ole hoopty an overhaul & a 4-stroker this winter.

-Rep

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

@repirazz

More pictures please! Is that painted?

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Looking good!

repirazz

Soarrich- Its all metallic teal monokote incl the gear & struts. The only thing painted is the wheel covers. (white & clear lusterkote)

SeamusG

What was used for the wing struts? How are they attached? What mods did ya make to accommodate them?

Thx.

The pics don't quite fit the thread topic but ... The reason for undoing the tail dragger mod - planning to use as a trainer for newbies and the tri-cycle gear makes that easier ...

Ultracote bright yellow, black and chrome (for the windows). Shoulda cleaned the finger prints off.

And it's a clipped wing version - 1 bay.

repirazz

SeamusG- The struts are the poorboy specials made from scraps i had laying around. Each side is two pieces of 1/8" lite ply cut to 1/2"x 16" epoxied together. On each end of both halves i routed a groove half the thickness of threaded rod w/ a short 90 degree bend to keep rod from turning or pulling out. (see pic 1). Then sanded the corners round, monokoted them & threaded on some clevises. One side is epoxied, (to keep strut from rotating) the other has a locknut. (adjustability)

The attachment points on the wings are small brackets made from 1/16" aluminum screwed directly into the lower wing spar using smallest screw i had to not weaken the spar any more than necessary. (holes were CA hardened). (pic 2)

The lower attachment point is another 1/16" aluminum bracket that screws across bottom of fuse & attaches to both L & R struts kinda like telemasters have. (Pic 3)

I didn't really do any accommodating mods otherwise, since i don't consider them to be "functional" & wouldn't recommend using clevises on something that needs functioning struts. I've had them pop loose on occasion (while doing things trainers aint spose ta do of course, but still...).

How's that clipped wing & dual servo version fly? Always wondered if that would wake up the roll rate a bit.


-Rep

wed-subawu

My Feedback: (1)

I got the wheel pants from great Hobbies in Canada. They were special order so I had to wait a few weeks for them...

http://www.greathobbies.com/search/r...srchvendor=SWP

I think mine are the SWPWP3 units for 3" wheels. Not sure if anyone in the US carries them, but you could inquire with Aeroglass...

http://aeroglass.ca/

I've had no problems with the 3" wheels on smooth grass, but you might want larger ones if your field is rougher.

John

acdii

Mine has 4" wheels, handles the grass quite well, but haven't found any pants that would fit it yet.  I gave mine a PM and found the elevator servo was brushing against the rudder link at a certain point. I clipped the arm and now less chance of a mishap. I should have a tad more up elevator now.

SeamusG

Hey Rep - hopefully Ican tell you tomorrow. The clipped mods haven't been maidenedyet. This year has been incredibly windy 10 - 20 being the norm.

acdii

Oh cmon the Kadet can handle that!   At least the full wing one can!  [8D]  I've gotten pretty good flying in gusty winds with mine, landing can get me hyped up though, but they are getting better too, my last 4 landings have been perfect, where I can either take right off or taxi back.

On one cross wind day the plane had veered to its right, which was away from me, and across our entire field there is one post with a plastic pipe for reference for the tractor operator, and wouldnt you know, it headed right for it, but at the last moment, I pulled back and did a perfect vertical and cleared it by inches.  I wouldnt be able to do that again if I tried.

I love the Kadet!

rtn9105

My Feedback: (35)

WOW lots of great looking Kadets on here. Also lots of great ideas and info I'll be using on an Lt40 I'm building right now.

SeamusG, do you have any updates on how the plane performed with the clipped wing?

acdii

He hasn't posted in over a year, and I recall someone saying he is no longer around.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Bill, that is a magnificent ship. I'm going to build an LT-40 kit I forgot I had, soon. Getting old, had some recent, really bad health issues, so I'm dropping back into the retro game. I've been thinking, going through old threads, deciding exactly how to proceed. You just made my decision for me.

I've got the correct wheel pants; are those TNT gear the ones they make for a rear mount for floats, or a "regular" main tail dragger set?

BTW, I fly at a club about 30 miles north of Baton Rouge.

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LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

That's two old-timers who are apparently no longer around here. Darn it, I need to chat with those fellows...

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acdii

What is it you are looking for?

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Just wanted to chat with them about their "kit bashes", since I'm going to do the same thing; build a kit,make it a tail dragger, and power it with a small four-banger (OS 52).

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acdii

If I remember tomorrow I will pull mine out and get you some picks of the hold downs, the pins and the landing gear. mine is powered by an OS 52 as well, Very good combination. I had posted pics of this a while back, but can't say where.

acdii

Well I can't show you the internal structures, but hopefully the photos will give enough detail to start with.

First, add some 1/4" ply under the rear fuse stiffener at the back of the wing opening. This is where you will be tapping for the wing bolts. At the front in front of F3 you will need a 1/4" plywood brace at the very top, size it the same as the width of the fuse and height of the former, and on the back side a 1/8" plywood plate, and epoxy these together.

On the wing, which I can't show you is the trickiest part. You need 1/4" ply, and it is epoxied to the back of the leading edge, and shaped to fit into the fuse, so you have to mock it up until you get the wing to sit properly before gluing it in. You will most likely need to shim it.

Once you have all these pieces glued together, set the wing in position and secure it with clamps so it can't move, and you will need to drill the holes for the wing bolts and front pins. The wing bolts are easy, just measure where you want the bolts to be on the plate and transfer them to the wing and drill. Use some thin plywood on the top of the wing to prevent crushing the trailing edge when the bolts are tightened. The forward pins can be drilled easily as long as you have not put the plywood windscreen on, you drill them from the front same diameter as the dowels, insert the dowels into the wing, then open the holes in the fuse so they slide in easily, then test fit and glue the pins to the wing.
Thats it.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks... I've done this before, just wanted to see what differences/better arrangements anyone might have come up with.

Did you just glue ply bolt plates on top of the wings, or cut the sheeting and install hardwood blocks inside the near the roots? The latter is what I'm going to do with the kit... but I'm doing an ARF first, to play with while I build the kit at my leisure during this winter... such as that will be down here in the sub-tropics. Heck, I might just leave the ARF stock and use rubber bands; but this wide camber wing needs #67 bands. Gotta see if Sig still sells those. #64 bands will crunch the LE and TE .

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ETpilot

I don't like rubber bands. So when I scratch built my LT-40, I went with a bolt on wing. I did it similar to acdii. For the wing TE I used a solid wood spacer for the bolts. I use the hex head bolts as I have a cordless driver for installation. I'm not familiar with the kit version except for the pictures I have seen. The tail wheel was another challenge. I finally made my own set up. I haven't flown the LT yet so not sure how it will work out.

acdii

I just glued a 1/32" plywood plate on top of the wing and left the rest stock. This gives it flexibility in the event of a wing strike, which I have had a few of and only once did it cause breakage. My tail wheel



Tail wheel servo connection

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

I have that gray plastic tail wheel set-up, and a couple of others. I'll decide which one to use once I select the main gear. I'll probably use a plastic outer guide/nylon inner tube pushrod. Going to order some #67 rubber bands tomorrow. I'll do a bolt-on wing when I build the kit. This ARF, I'd rather not cut up the wing for that. Heck, I'm even using some old 72mHz gear; this thing is going to be a serious beater.

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