Shi-Maxx

I just bougt an Aftershock the front wheels were only pulling and i found that the hex hub on the right rear was stripped. i had a spare for my other truck so i put it on. i checked and it is the right size i put another set of wheels onitand today while running it it striped a gain only this time it stripped the wheel and melted the center out of the wheel. i dont understand why it is only striping this one and not the other ones.is there somthing that i can do to prevent this ordid ior the previouse owner maby set something wrong.i just don understand. all help is greatly apriciated
Hunter

Geofiveo

I would recommend checking the rear diff. There is something wrong with your drivetrain if you stripping your hub. I don't think I've ever stripped that but anything is possible. I would disassemble it until I found the smoking gone. Something is jammed up.

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

Plastic drive hexes and 1/8 monsters don't mix IMO. The tires are big with powerful motors, and even if the wheel nuts are tight plastic hexes strip pretty easy. My brushless aftershock stripped a rear wheel hex within minutes on its first run. Replaced it, cranked down the wheel nut and promptly stopped the hex and wheel. Then glued the hex into the wheel and spun the cross pin inside the hex, all in less than 10min of running.

I doubt there's anything wrong with the diff, if the spider gears had a problem you'd still be front wheel drive. Maybe the knuckle bearing on the opposite side are binding causing more power to go the side that stripped. More likely is the hex was already going and failed in your possession. If you tried putting a Traxxas hex on there it may have fit the wheel and stub axle but is not a good substitute, I know cause my third and last attempt was to use one and the result was the same as the first two times. There are aluminum hexes available in the stock 14mm, but you should consider upgrading to at least 17mm hex hubs to cure the problem. Traxxas can get away with 14mm hex hubs in their lighter trucks that have smaller and lighter tires but it's really too small for the the more powerful 1/8's with their larger and heavier tires.

Shi-Maxx

Thanks guy a lot I will check the diff and get the hubs bc I'm hearing some type of wineing or hissing sound like when u strip a sper gear and the engine is screaming but im not going fast at all. But idk is this normal. Is there a difference in 1/8 and 1/10 wheels. If there is I'll get th right ones. Hope I'm not overloading y'all with ?'s just want to get this thing up to par

Shi-Maxx

Would these hubs work???
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Set-4-LST2-MUG

sparky 25

No those will not work on the aftershock and lst1 axles,

If you want to run 17mm hexes use either hpi savage hex or associated mgt hex,

I'm running thundertiger s50 23mm hex and wheels on my lst1,

just had to put on a washer infront of the wheel nut, and it fits fine,

As for the engine screaming,
Sounds like your slipper clutch is loose
tighten down the nut on the end of the spur gear shaft,
the one with the spring in front of it,

Might be a good idea to first remove the said nut and remove your spur gears to take out your slipper clutch plates,
And give each one a wipe,
Just to take away any spilt fuel or mud from them,

Enjoy.

Muskokarc

Never bad questions gaining knowledge is what sites like this are for.

Yes there is a difference between 1/10 and 1/8 wheels for one the 1/8 are bigger.  I can almost fit my 1/10 wheel rubber and all inside the rim of my LST's wheel.

FYI factory setting for the slipper nut is one full turn out from all the way down.

sparky 25

Slipper clutches on nitro trucks are not really nessessary,

I run all my nitro trucks with the slipper nut cranked all the way down,

Come to think of it I run every truck I own even brushless with the slipper tightened fully,

I hate slippage taking the bite out of throttle punch.

Shi-Maxx

Thanks guys I will give the clutch a look and get some hubs. I'll be sure to keep y'all posted on its behavior.