cmpang

Thanks apejovic, I will on pass your suggestion to the development team...

cmPang

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

Try doing the horizontal calibration and calibrate the esc's.

nebstress

The RX LED wont light up until it gets a valid signal from the TX that is why you need to move a stick before it will go into breathing mode.
You need to wait after powering the FC for a little while & the move the aeleron stick full in one direction, you will hear a beep & then it will go into breathing mode.

Soupbones

I had a similar issue, and nebstress is correct. Just flick you aileron stick one way and it will beep and go into breathing mode.. this issue had me scratching my head for a while. Seems the board just needs to know that the RC TX is connected and won't work till you confirm it.

Geotete

I can help with that already sent a PM.

Geotete

747pilot

My Feedback: (4)

Cmpang,

Here's a possible solution to your large file problem. DropBox.
Works great.

PS- I'm in Hong Kong. Just landed a few hours ago. Have the day off. Also will be back
here onthe 19th and 20th. Is there an area at the old airport I can see some RC flying?
If so please send a google map link. Thanks for all your efforts here.

Hummingbird.RPV

Hi Mr Cmpang,
Iwould like you to forward my request to the Love Flight Team. I am using a standard 72Mhz PPM radio system with the Rabbit. Ihave discovered that if there is a loss of signal or interference the rabbit FC stops all the motors! To me this is unacceptable behaviour. It should respond by just maintaining the inputs when the signal was lost. I have LotusRC quads and this is what they do.They also start beeping.Makes it easy to find a downed quad in the tall grass, just listen for the beeping. I have read where other rabbit owners say their quad just fell out of the sky. This may be the cause.
Best regards.

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

The missus and I spent last weekend in Las Vegas, so after donating to the casinos we came back and I was able to put together my new frame. I got a 600mm frame off GLB and decided it looks so nice, instead of fabricating a gimbal, I decided to just order the one that goes with it. Anyways, I got it all together except the gimbal and flight tested it this morning. I was hoping to save weight but didn't notice an appreciable difference. At least it looks more professional. This is good because I have made some contacts and will be maybe doing some pro work.

Soupbones

This is a great idea to have a fail safe. Maybe LF team could make this a setting. The beeping when there is no TX signal is a great idea too. Why didn't I think of this since i have one of those plane finder beepers you hook to your RX.
Another feature they could add would be autolanding when your battery voltage, monitored by the lead to the balance cable, gets low. Though the rabbit seems to do this pretty good when the voltage drops down anyway.

nebstress

I think before we all go asking Love Flight to add more features it would be best to get the ones we have working better/properly first.

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

My personal thought is that I think some people expect far too much of a 100 dollar usd flight controller. In it's basic form with sonar and baro, it's hard to beat. It's when people start adding functions to it that they start getting into trouble. As for me, I will never probably explore gps or rth because I wanted a quad that would handle a camera in tight quarters and this one does that and more.
Now, instead of upgrading firmware, I'm ugrading things that matter to me, like a new frame, a decent gimbal and more powerful motors. I got the frame together and really like it and now I'm just waiting on the gimbal and I ordered some Hawking 3530-14 motors.
This should give me all that I need to do both higher level and lower level aerial video. The ATG 600 frame is hard to beat for the money. The camera gimbal is pretty basic and although I'm not crazy about the design, I might be able to upgrade it a little once it arrives.
I'm still using 1.203 FW with 1.101 upgrade and I have never had an issue since. For simple, stable, smooth flying it's a very pleasing setup. I'm going to keep the height hold but will probably dump the "auto land" feature. I just don't need it.

Soupbones

While I agree with you nebstress and Randall, the fact is, if the Rabbit is based on Multiwii code, then some of these features are already available to the multiwii, therefore could easily be implemented for the rabbit, as long as there is no extra hardware needed. Something like fail-safe is in multiwii and if anything is a great safety feature.

Jerry Campbell

Hello Friends,
I've got my quad put together and everything setup but the compass calibration. And thanks to Soupbones the switches on the transmitter.Everything seems to work.
The problem is # 2 ESC gets hot as soon as I plug in the battery. The motors turn in the right direction. I calibrated the esc's with the Rabbit according to Randall and everything went well.
I wonder if I got a bad ESC? Or does anyone know what the problem might be. It is a RCTimer 40 amp.
Thanks
Jerry

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

If you have all the red wires connected it could be that. By "hot" do you mean you can't touch it or does it just get warmer? You might also check your bullet plugs just to see if you have one that's looser than the others.

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

Honestly, no one has convinced me yet that this fc is based on a part of the code or even all of the code. We only have the word of people that are MWii types complaining about it. If this FC was truly MWii based or even MWii compatible, don't you think it's odd that no one has been able to load true "MWii" code onto it? You see, for me, that's the true test of their assumptions and seeing as no one has even bothered to load MWii code onto it, that tells me they are full of it. If it was truly compatible with MWii code, someone, somewhere, would have loaded the code onto it and that would have proven them right. This tells me that they obviously know their arguments are shams.
And for anyone to say that it's "not worth my time" to do so, would be utter BS after all the effort that has been expended in going after people that sell it and those that have bought it. I personally don't believe any of the "stolen code" hype. You have to remember that the people making the most noise are those that are involved in competing FC's.

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

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nebstress

Soupbones I am very disappointed & surprised at you, the Rabbit runs on Rabbit code!

Jerry Campbell

Yes all the red wires are connected and all the bullet connectors are tight .
I first noticed after checking the direction of the motors. All were cold but one, it was medium hot. after shutdown and time to cool I plugged in the battery and in a few seconds you could feel it getting warm.
I do not understand how only 1 of 4 3 amp bec's from the esc's could be supplying all the power, when there is a total of 12 amps available if that is the problem.
Jerry

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

According to Mr Pang, if you have all 4 esc's plugged in, they sense each other somehow, and only one provides power. That's why one gets warmer than the others. One thing you need to do with a multirotor is to switch the battery from "lipo" to "nimh" on your esc programming. The reason you do this is to bypass the "low voltage cutoff"
This keeps one esc from cutting out before the others.

Jerry Campbell

I called a friend who knows much more about electronic circuits than I and explained it to him. He said it depends on the way the circuit was designed butthat yes it is possible for one of the bec's to take the lead and to actually run away causing increased heat.
He said That if I cut all but one of the red wires I would probably be better off, one should be able to handle all the current the board needs.
Or I could just get a seperate UBEC.
I think I'll cut all but one and see how hot it gets first then get an external UBEC.
Thanks
Jerry