Soupbones

LOL.
Now I am not going into that argument about aledged stolen code. Personally I don't give a hoot if it is or isn't. As far as I am concerned, if you put such code in the public domain, in other words, so everyone can have it, then why complain when someone aledgedly uses it for another board? So stupid. Randall, you know my thoughts on this anyway. And yes no one has conclusive proof it is taken from Multiwii. I won't say stolen because how can something in the public domain, that is given out for free for anyone to use, be stolen. Thats just rubbish.
Anyway, lets not get into that argument here, lets leave that to other people on other forums to get upset and carry on like total fools about.
But given that there is code, and there is code for a multirotor board, then some of these simple features such as failsafe could easily be implimented.

Hey, just steal the code form Multiwii! They won't mind.....

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

No worries bones. I just wanted to point out that if this thing were truly even MWii material, someone would have loaded "real" MWii code onto it to prove their allegations. But since no one to my knowledge ever has, that more or less confirms my assumptions that the MWii crowd is all wet.

pheonix74

No need to cut them. Turn the plug upside down and only use the SIGNAL on 3 of them.

Jerry Campbell

Thanks I'll try that one at a time and see.
Jerry

Jerry Campbell

I took #2 bec and turned it upside down so just the signal wire was plugged in.
I plugged in the battery and none of the esc's got warm.
I ran the motors for a couple of minutes and all 4 of the esc's got warm but not hot.
Soooo I think I'm going to go with this and see.
Jerry

Soupbones

Has anyone made a note of which number ESC gets hot when you run your board powered from ESCs? I have noted No1 ( or M0 in my boards case) is the one that only seems to get hot and is powering the board.

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

I have actually read somewhere that you really need the ground wire hooked up. Having said that, I'm using all 3 wires on all my esc's without issue. Mine all get reasonably the same temp. Very little variation.

Jerry Campbell

Mine was #2. I used two batteries today and since turning #2 bec upside down none of them get hot.
I said used and not flew two batteries because there was no way I could control this thing for more than a moment.
I had to reverse ch 1 and 2 in the GUI. I can hear the throttle going up and down constantly.
I beat my skids to death bouncing off the ground and knocked a few chunks out of the props.
I had the same feeling the first day I tried to fly my 450 heli. That this might be one of those things I just can't do.
Of course I know better because I learned to fly the heli. In fact if it weren't for that experience I would just own a pile of pieces now.
Tomorrow I'll get back after it
Jerry

Soupbones

I'm not using a BEC at all, and just using my trusty 18 Amp Gaui ESCs and it seems ESC on motor 1 gets hot the most. It warms up I noticed even before you arm the board too. After a flight they all seem to even out in temperature.

Jerry Campbell

Does anyone know the esc update rate for the RCTimer/ Hobbywing 40 amp esc or how to find out?
Thanks
Jerry

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

Should be 330 same as a 30 amp.

Soupbones

Make sure that in the software that remote is ticked and loaded in the firmware. When your board goes through the start up notions simply move your aileron stick to one side. Doesn't matter which way. Your rabbit board should beep when it detects the stick movement to confirm the RX is properly connected and then go into breathing mode.

Jerry Campbell

Well, This morning I updated the firmware, recalibrated everything, put on a UBEC, turned the motor plugs upside down with only the data lines connected, plugged the ubec into motor plug #5 and she flew a lot better. Still some strange throttle oscilations so I cut the red bec wires and plugged in the motor wires normaly so the grounds and the data wires were plugged in. I tried raising and lowering the ballance gain but things did not change. It still has a slight oscilation but the motors sound much much smoother. It still gains and looses height at will but it seems I have complete control of the throttle so I can stop it from hitting the ground. I am flying over loose gravel and don't have much space so I can't test other features of the FC.
Question: Should I be powering the reciever off the UBEC also?

Jerry Campbell

The throttle does have problems. The receiver is old, maybe it has a problem.
I decided to try position hold after hovering around a little. I flipped the switch and it did pretty well I thought with a little wandering. I flipped the switch off and it shot up about 100 ft. so I dropped the throttle and it shot off at about a 45 Deg angle at about 100 miles an hour. I am now epoxying the frame back together. I hope that was all that was broken. We shall see tomorrow. I will not be so bold in the future until I get to some open territory.
Jerry

apejovic

Yesterday work made with the ConnOcto 1000.

It´s a making off vdeo for the Pitcbull´s concert we will cover tommorow here in Tenerife.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7e3OR9MtKs&feature=plcp[/youtube]

Soupbones

I have the same issue with GPS position hold. It just shoots off in another direction. Same with GH as well. It doesn't go home but goes off on holidays!

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

I just wish my new motors would get here so I can get back to testing. [:@] I came to the conclusion that the motors I was using are simply too small for the loads I am lifting so I ordered some 3530-14 1100kv Hawkings. I'm right at 1.6kg so I need more lifting power.

pheonix74

Hi all
Well I got my quad up and flying for the first time today
I had a few issues with my tx set up but soupbones help clear that up and it took of perfect.
I first had it set up with 10inch props and soupbone thought it was a bit slugish so i swapped to 8inch and was much more nimble.
All in all a much better build and flight compared to the kk build i had before this which just flipped and crash every time.
I am using a modded ycopter frame (kk board broke motor arms and landing gear) Sunnysky 980kv motors and hk 20a esc. Will try and get some videos of next flight but really was my first time on a RC quad as i started on a AR drone about a year ago now and sold that to build the kk set up.
So more flight time and good weather is all i need oh and more battery packs

Thanks Again to every one here and your videos work a treat randell cheers.

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

Glad to be of assistance Phoenix Now if my motors would just GET HERE Hopefully tomorrow or thursday. They're in the US and through customs at least
I got a new ATG 600 frame and a new gimbal with servo to use for roll. In testing it works great after some tweaking. I would like it to remain on all the time but I can't get it to work without it being on a switch. I thought if you unchecked everything it worked by default.
Oh well.

Soupbones

Well went for a fly this afternoon with pheonix74 this afternoon, and for some reason, my quad decided to drift off, and i had no steering control, so of course I dropped the throttle to prevent it getting to far out of the way near the road and crashed it. Smashed up the camera gimbal to pieces, and wrecked the servo as well, and damaged one prop. Rest of the quad seems ok, but one or two of my motors are bent as well. Was up and flying again in about 10 mins minus the camera gimbal.

cmpang

apejovic, sorry for the late reply,
there are some points that the developer need to elaborate more in order to proceed ...

1. "possibility to set both roll and tilt servos minimum,maximum and mid values (in pulses) .".. how it is done? is it with a special type of servo?
2. Adding "Pan control" in the form of existing "head lock" looks to be straight forward...but since a servo has a range limit of +/-60 degrees meaning the "Pan Lock" can only work within a +/-60 degrees sector, how are you going to cope with this in your AP work..?

Please give more info so that the team can start their first sketch...

cmPang

Soupbones

Hi Randal.

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

My sonar module is around 100mm off the deck. I'm running fw 12.06 with Ver 1.101 upgrade. It's the very first upgrade on the other site.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=376
At this point in time I'm actually thinking about not having auto land set up. I have it on the other side of my height hold switch so when it's up it's in height hold and when it's down it goes into auto land. I've found that sometimes even with the auto land switch pulled that I have to still drop the throttle a click to get it to come down, especially when it's up a ways.
On a positive note, my motors finally got here and now I'm ready to do some flight testing. I'll probably wait till tomorrow though. I'm really beat from working in 110 degree heat.
I really like my new frame and gimbal too

apejovic

Hi Mr Pang.

1. With my analog hitec servos I have to setup min-max and mid setting. They are setup in pulses. Min and max are the tops before reaching physical limits or the range. Mid is the desired initial position (I use roll mid to fine adjust the horizon on the roll axis). These are done on Multiwii with the command set gimbal_roll_mid...... set gimbal_tilt_max=1800 for example. On some versions of mw I think it was done with set servo_roll_XXX

2. Gimbal pan lock that is very similar to the rabbit multicopter direction lock. When you lock the yaw the rabbit uses the magnetometer to adjust the yaw to a certain magnetometer degree, yawing the multicopter until reaching the fixed direction.

When using a 360 gimbal the board rotates together with the gimbal, exactly the same as it does it with the multicopter. Here the only difference is that the board should move the servo until reaching the previously marked magnetometer degree. Gimbal pan servos are 360º continuous rotation, so what the board has to do is send pulses to the servo until reaching/maintaining the desired direction.

Thank you very much for your efforts to make my request real.


Here are some of my last videos using a two operator configuration:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaiK2kp4GH4&feature=plcp[/youtube]


And after the Pitbulls concert something much more relaxing:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nZpHYK0l8Q&feature=plcp[/youtube]

randall1959

My Feedback: (11)

Here is the new video
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59ZtKtlG3Ng[/youtube]