rcyogi

Yea, i figure that will be the answer..Thanks for the fast reply!

Valve floater

This plane is heavy. Seems like a 35 would not be enough.
Anyone having problems with the tail wheel doors. These things are killing me trying to get them to close properly. Either too much rubber band to close them but the tail wheel won`t come out. Then not enough to close them when it does. Any help or pic`s would be nice. thanks

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

I have one with a BME-50 that pulls it nice and another one with an OS BGX 3500 that also pulls it great in fact just as fast as the one with the BME although thre BME will pull harder on the vertical.

thanks Bob

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

the US 41cc as the manuel recommends is JUST barely able to handle the 51 in this size. if you add all the mods and reinforcements and upgrades and accessories then a larger eng. has to be applied. i'm using a Brillilli 60cc on mine. using gas/glow fuel mix. glow ign. less weight more power no extra batt.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

I use my half setting all the times.
On take off it shortens the take off run and it eliminates at my field a chanche to hit a depression in the grass strip and go airborne prematurely ( trust me it happened to me quite often without flaps).
Then on landings, I hit the half flaps on the down wind. My radio has a servo speed setting built in, so the flaps deploy slowly giving the chance for the plane to bleed airspeed off without ballooning.
On base I deploy full flaps and turn to final with plane well set in advance for landing speed.
Seems to me that your ballooning might be because you deploy full flaps with normal servo speed and the plane does not have a chance to bleed air off.

Valve floater

Thanks. I don`t see a delay settings for flaps on my radio. Only delayed for mixing on the elevator when flaps are deployed. Or at least i can`t find the setting yet.I may move it to the turn dial so i can give it what i want. I just don`t like taking my fingers off the stick to turn the dail while flying. I can`t figure out how to get my 3 stage switch to work.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

You must have a Futaba radio...sounds familiar to me as I have the Futaba 10c and ran into the same issues. I'm a Futaba guy, but really wish they had some of the programming that JR offers as standard.



Casey

Valve floater

How do you have yours setup Glazier?

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

well I couldnt find a way to slow them down and was banging my head over the three pos switch, so until I can call tech at Futaba, I'm using the rotary dial switch...I love my Futaba, but its programming sucks at times. Sorry not to be of better help, but I will post any findings that I do come across for you here. As I'm getting ready to set up another warbirds electronics, it should be soon.

Casey

flyboy12

My Feedback: (57)

Well guys that means y'all need to change radio systems. haha I used to fly Futaba for years, but seen the light and changed over.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

I hear ya...problem is...I've never had a problem with the radio, just the programming...and that could be me lol.

Casey

jchorak

My Feedback: (9)

I use one of the sliders on the sides of my 9c for flaps. It looks like the 10c has the same setup. Works great for me.
jc

The Swede

Keep the radio-gear and change the servos. I've got a Futaba 10 C and using Hitec programmable servos on flaps and gear-doors... can be programmed to rediculously slow if you wish. Downside is that you have to fork out a few extra bucks for the Hitec programming unit... but like with L'Oreal... It's worth it...

Benny

flyboy12

My Feedback: (57)

Yep that is the straw that broke the camels back for me was the programing. Anyone flying with the 9C that is not on 2.4 ? I have the modual and antena for it

flyboy12

My Feedback: (57)

I knew someone out there would have a good answer for the problem at hand

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

I have a couple of 9 C Futabs and I just use the slider switch on the lft side for the flaps , this way I can keep my finger on the elev. and airelon with my right hand and use my left to slide the switch to get what I want . I have not had any balloning problems with any of the TOP-FLITE P-51"s . and like the other fellow said I just fly it in for the landing when you start to trying to land a plane then you are in trouble just keep flying it right to the runway and you will make the smoothest landings , with the tail up and gradually let the tail settle down. Most guys I see that get into trouble try to slow up to much and 3 point the landing and that is when you get the balloning and bouncing . The P-51 almost lands itself . I fly with about 1/4 throttle on final and start comming back as I get near the runwat and leave the elevator alone and start using the throttle to control the desent. Just a very light touch of elevator just before the wheels touch to keep the nose straight and the tail up, once she is rolling cut the throttle and let the tail settle.

thanks Bob

Valve floater

I can`t adjust stop points or D/R side slide switches. Won`t go all the way back to center position. I figured out to use the c triple switch on the right side that mixes a little down elev. delayed, but only goes to half flaps when activated.Then if i want more i use the turn knob on the right side to go all the way to full if desired. Sounds like half flaps are most common. Does anyone find it useful to mix in a little down with flaps, or skip it and just fly it to the ground?

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

I just use full flaps almost all the time except when it is windy enough that you do not need them . You have enough to worry about when landing then have to worry about what switch and how much to use. Like I said I just drop them and I do not need to play with the elevator or anything else but the throttle and I will make a smooth 2 wheel landing without thinking about it.

thanks Bob

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

I 'am a little confused when you say your triple rate slide switch. the slider on the side of the radio is just a slide lever ther is no triple or dual rate on that lever,

thanks Bob

Valve floater

Yes. I am confusing myself. I`m not gonna use the slide switch. I have been flying RC for over 10 yrs and fly mostly light wing loaded planes. The largest i have now is a 50cc sundancer that lands like a light 3d plane. I just bought this Mustang 2nd hand and now in the process of setting it up. I am worried i may have bit off more than i can chew with this beast. Damn heavy airplane than what i am used too. Landing will be the problem. Doesn`t look like a floater for sure. But has a lot of wing area that should help.

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

If it is the arf version it should weigh appox. 20 to 22 lbs. unless you add a lot of extras. If it is from the Kit It could weigh up to 25 to 27 lbs. The Arc shoud be around 22 to 24 lbs. I have built them all and actually 3 or 4 of each over the past years. They all fly good but my arf I could almost walk it in with the flaps down and it won'i stall. I have been in modeling for approx 59 years and RC for approx. 44yrs and have flow just about every type of spor ship and war bird there is and the TOP-FLITE ARF's are probably the best. I have owned and flow their P-51 -P-40 - P-47 and I just finished their Corsar . I have not flown it yet but I would bet it is the same as the others. Don't be afraid of it just ask for help at your field until you get use to it.

thanks Bob

RDonovan

I have had a GS P=51 and had no trouble setting up the flaps on my old 9C Super. I used the three position switch C. With the flap in the 1/2 or landing position and the flap servo centered make up your push rod and assign this to the center position on the switch. Put the switch all the way down and use the end point control to set your full down flap position. Then do the same with the full up position on the switch except set the end point for the other direction. You can use the end point to adjust full up and down positions and sub trim to make minor adjustments on the 1/2 flap position. I think you would have to do the same with a 10C too. The newer FGs and MZs will let you program the flaps.
Richard...

flyboy12

My Feedback: (57)

valve floater, just keep in mind that this is not a 3d or areobatic plane. It is a warbird and has to be flown in, not floated in. I have trained a lot of war bird pilots in the many years I've been flying and that always seems to be a slight adjustment time to get used to. Have someone stand with you and talk to you while you fly and you should be fine.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

If you are not familiar with giant scale warbirds flying in general and particularly on landing, I would strongly recommend that you find someone in your area that it is familiar with that aircraft and can stay next to you for the first few flights and landing just to make sure you don't slow the plane down too much.
Like many before me had said here, you need to fly the plane all the way to the ground and then you cut the throttle. Resist the temptation to float the plane in. It will not happen with such heavy wing loading.

Fabio

Valve floater

Thanks Guys. It will be a learning in process. But something new. I am 43yrs old and from a child i have always read about and loved warbirds.