cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

Yea, I've been looking at all the front/rear hubs and HD cups for the whole truck. For rear uprights, front c-hubs and knuckles, and all 6 drive cups, its about $114. Not sure how the hubs and knuckles hold up though. might be cheaper to geta  few sets of the plastic ones

gdiddy13

I also have the HR rear hubs after I bent up the others. Again flawless and have held up to my neglect and abuse. Buying the front HRhubs next

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

So it sounds like they have made some pretty good products for the Flux. I'll definitely be looking at purchasing atleast the drive cups.

chasehq

Sounds like those Hot Racing cups and outdrives are the way to go, only heard good things about them.

Got bored of the factory look so de-chromed the wheel's and removed most of the decals (well the "Hpi" ones anyway).

Ordered a clear body from Omni and will probably paint it up like my baja. I'm going to get the HPI black Scorch wheels, just cant decide on tires.... want something the same size as factory.

Anyone else'sXS hesitate on start off? If I punch it from a standstill, it does a short wheelie, stalls then goes full power? it's not cogging, but I wonder if it's motor stall as I've never experienced it before on a brushless setup..

gdiddy13

thoughts on this servo?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-MG995-Met...item41541e9133

sparky 25

These servos are average, I have had quite a few of them burn out with little use,

Some even smoked on the first run,

If you are looking for a more powerful cheap servo, try the power hd 17kg servo,

I run two of these, one on my ofna buggy steering and the other on my 5t throttle/brake,

Never had any issues with them,

they are alloy bodied servos and appear to be well built for a budget servo,

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...rfuOC0K6JL0ZCg

chasehq

I wouldn't touch those towerpro's, I've had some in the past and some of them dont even go out the box let alone fizz out 5 minutes down the road. In saying that we
were getting them for $7-8usd here.

For $30 you can have a Hitec 645 which will be plenty for this truck, and being in the US you will havethe no questions asked warranty aswell should anything go wrong.
Last thing you want is to be doing somewhere near 65mph and have no steering because you bought a cheap chinese clone.
Sorry but I have quite a few RC's (including 1/5th) and with the kid magnets they are,the last thing I want is to be explaining to the local authorities why I've just taken out someone's son

speaking of inferior products, 10 packs and I think I will be ordering those HR cups sooner than I thought:

Thiagooo

What wheels are these? you took the chrome or painted? or are another set of wheels?

chasehq

They are the factory black chrome 'warlock' wheels and tyres. Because they are 'black' chrome, the wheels are black underneath the chrome (normal chrome wheels are usually white plastic underneath).

SoI removed the chrome plating

Foxy

So I'm thinking of finally getting an SS kit, anything I should know?

chasehq

*If they have the same centre cups as the RTR, I would cetainly look into the HR ones, mine now sounds likea dog chewing gravelwhen going forward.
My outdrives and diff cups arelike newthough.

*Oh,decent tyres. I have yet to perform a backflip. I realise you are meant to have "nice clean asphalt" as it says in the video's
but mine prefers to spin the backs on launch and the front scrabble for traction like a squirrel on a hot barbeque.
My rears are now bald on the insides, I'm pretty sure the SS comes with adjustable camber links to help with traction and tyre wear though.

*Giggle like a schoolgirl. This littletruck still puts a smile on my face despite it's minor short comings.

If my ESC and motor had blown up (15 packs and still going strong), I would've regretted getting this over the SS kit, will probably still replace in time though.



So has anybody here successfully run LED's off the 3rd channel, and switched them on/off via the switch? I just ran a tamiya TLU-01 off my 3rd channel and it stays on regardless of whether
the Tx switch is in or out.

t9dragon

My Feedback: (11)

About time you get one Foxy.. I now have 3 of them...

kc092755

Hi guys,
Need to fix the plug problem,
does anyone know how to get rid of the waterproof glue from stock esc then remove esc from its case?
Thanx!

CarGuy7a

What are you guys running for springs if you run others besides the stock ones? I was doing a little searching for a slightly stiffer spring than stock. Does anyone know what the stock spring rate is? I know it says red compression rate 10 coils but it gives no info on what the actual rate is IE: lbs/in. I couldn't find any aftermarket springs made for this truck specifically but I did do some experimenting and found that the rear springs for the Axial EXO Terra buggy will fit perfectly on this shock.

If you are interested in the Axial Springs on the Savage XS shocks here's the part #'s and rates.

AX30223 1.04 lbs/in
AX30224 1.43 lbs/in
AX30225 1.75 lbs/in
AX30218 2.07 lbs/in
AX30219 2.47 lbs/in
AX30220 2.85 lbs/in
AX30221 3.27 lbs/in
AX30222 3.55 lbs/in

Now the Savage stock spring is listed at 13x69mm whereas the Axial springs are listed at 14x70mm. The 1mm difference in diameter will not affect how it sits in the spring retainers all that much. It's just a tad bit looser than the stock spring but from what I could see it would never pop off the spring retainers around the sides. It actually fits pretty well.

sparky 25

Don't do as I did,

ordered a toro 80a esc to find it won't fit in the very tight space allocated for the esc on the xs,

Most 60a esc fit without issues though,

Have yet to run mine as I'm waiting on the 60a esc to arrive,

Foxy

I have an MMP on standby for it, thanks for the heads up though.

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

Get the e-clip eliminator! These e-clips sucks. The only way to get them off is to bend them, then they spring across the room when trying to put them back on. Get HR drive cups. I recommend pro-line badlands for tires. excellent grip on every surface. people complain about the stock steering servo (not sure if the kit comes with it) but i never had an issue.

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

Ordered some parts last night to get me back up and running. Ordered the e-clip eliminator set, front/rear upright/steering block set, transmission out drive cups, and axles. should be here this week. Can;t wait to get up and running again to run with my father inlaw and his Flux HP. I plan to get all HR accessories when taxes come in.

chasehq

Haven't had to touch the e-clips yet but since I split a rear hub, (it's still holding together though!)I guess I am going to find out the hard way.
Ordered my centre HR cups, cant wait for those, I hope my dogbones dontget destroyed in the mean time.
I'm going to order some HPI Yokohama Geolandars, want something stickier but still all terrain. Agree, it may be an RTR servo and only 4.5kg, but I can still turn the wheels lock to lock at a standstill so
I'm pretty happy with it for now. Although with such a short wheelbase i can understand people upgrading it to keep the truck straighter.

Would be fun to run these alongside an HP, have fun

motorhead91

Bit the bullet and just ordered an rtr xs. My sc10 4x4 isn't as suitable for a basher, so I figured 'd get one of these. Hopefully I'll have it this week.

thehuntingterminator

Hey guys we are doing a whole build series on the Savage XS SS kit. Check it out: http://www.modelkits.com/radio-contr...ld-videos.html

CarGuy7a

I'm guessing the E clips you all are referring to hold the suspension pins in correct? Because I just recently built up an SS kit and it did not have any E clips for the pins. The way the bottom skid is made it had pieces to enclose both ends of the pins to keep them from coming out. If you look on page 9 in the SS kit manual on HPI's site you'll see how the skid is made.

chasehq

Same as the RTR, it's where the arms connect to the hubs where the wheelbearings sitthat have pins with e-clips.

Well I lost rear drive again this arvo, figured the cups had finally let go, but no could still see the rear shaft turning and the cup that goes through the gearbox pinion.
I just assumed the small pin that goes in behind the pinion had broke and had a look in my spares for a tamiya hex pin to see if this could fit, 2mm too long (I could shave it down)so I pulled the
rear diff to bits, pin in behind pinion was fine, but one of the bearings had disintergrated: Also look at my left diff cup, it's spread apartand it's actually splitat the ends of the dognbone pin slots.looks like I'm ordering the other HR cups/outdrives too! That's actually one complete bearing at thetop of the pic, the rest is the remains of the other one lol

CarGuy7a

Still like I said in my SS kit there were no suspension pins that had E clips. They may have changed it. Go to HPI's Site and look at the SS kit manual page 9 step 6. It's a screw pin with a nyloc nut that came in my kit. The skid I was referring to (that closes the pin ends off for the a arm to bulkhead) is actually on page 11 Step 9.

chasehq

Yeah it looks likethe SSgot the e-clip eliminator kit as a factory upgrade RTR's have a shaft and e-clip where you have the screw pin and nylon nut.