F-16WpnsTech

Okay guys, I need your suggestions cause this one has me scratching my head. I sent the retracts in my P-51 to a vendor to be retrofitted for electric actuation. The retracts plug into a controller unit which has a lead going to the receiver. Receiver and controller are powered by seperate batteries although Idon't think it mattes. When I cycle the retracts, the flap servos and throttle servo jitters. Evidently, I'm getting interference from the retract motors (I think they're brushed). I've contacted the vendor and waiting on a response. I first thought it might be the flap servos themselves, so I tried a different brand (analog) - same problem. Iwent from analogs to digitals on the flaps - same problem. Tried a different receiver - same problem. I tried an interference doughnut on the lead going from the controller unit to the receiver - no help. Any suggestions/ideas you have on a fix would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

How close to the RX did you have the IR ring? It should be within 2" of the connector. Also put a ring on the wires from the retracts. And what radio are you using?

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Make sure you do not have the power leads to the retracts running parallel to any of the servo leads or any leads. Dan.

F-16WpnsTech

I did try to the ring on a lead to one of the flaps - no help...also tried it on the lead from the controller to the receiver - no help. And the ring was 1-2 inches from the receiver. I'm using a JR 9503.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Also, be sure that the battery packs are seperated as far as possible. Dan.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

I would contact the vendor as systems very quite a bit

F-16WpnsTech

Later today I'll try this and separating the leads.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

If you are using the Down and Locked system ,try issolating the receiver battery pack from the retact module battery pack by using only the signal wire (white wire ) between the receiver and retract module (remove the black and red wires from the extension between the receiver and module ,leaving only the white wire connected between them . This will isolate the battery packs from each other in case there is a problem with compatability of the two battery packs ( a difference in capacity , voltage or internal resistence )

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Another thing. If you have a servo tester, disconnect the retract line to the receiver and activate the retracts with the tester. Maybe you can use a receiver mounted in a different model. This will tell you if the interference is coming from that line in to your receiver. Dan.

aymodeler

My Feedback: (3)

How are the retracts being driven? I remember reading a thread (on RC Scale Builder I think) about electrical interference being generated by a rotary motor used to drive a "jack screw" to operate the retracts on a Ziroli Staggerwing. The solution was to install a small micro-capacitor across the motor leads.

F-16WpnsTech

Once I used a single, signal line from controller to receiver I got no response from the retracts at all....kinda hard to figure out since controller and receiver are powered separately.

F-16WpnsTech

Tried sepatate receiver on retracts - no help.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

This is really puzzling. The components of the retract system are not comingled with those of the RC system. The servos still jitter when the retracts are operated from a receiver in a separate model. Both receivers are on and bonded to the transmitter. It leads one to believe that the retracts are generating noise or radio frequency interference. There is something wrong with the retracts. I have always used air powered retracts with no problems. I don’t see any advantage of the electric ones. I know you have spent an extra few hundred for the modification so you have a vestige interest in getting them operating right. Don’t use them until they are. Keep us posted especially if you find the problem. Dan.

OliverJacob

My Feedback: (12)

If you just connect the white wire, the signal has no ground. The black one had to be connected, too.
Looks like you isolated that problem with an external rx already.
The manufacturer should be responsible for this, but it seems like the electric motors need a varistor or capacitor to eliminate spikes.

F-16WpnsTech

Okay guys, a little update. First thing I did was put an extension on the controller board to the receiver to get the controller and its battery out of the plane, then cycle both gear = flap-jitter-city. Next I unplugged the right retract and cyled the left = flap jitter. Plug right retract back in, unplug left, cycle right = NO JITTER! (Plug both back in, back to original problem). I'm thinking I've got interference out of the left retract motor. Aymodeler, a jack screw is driven by what I'm pretty sure is a brushed motor. I'm going to try to get up with the vendor tomorrow and see what can be done. Any thoughts?

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Good trouble shooting. It looks like you are on the right track. Inform the vendor of your findings and see what he says. Dan.

hellcat56

My Feedback: (21)

Instead of asking for advice and getting ALL types of suggestions from people that DONT have the same product
QUIT
and wait until you contact the vendor
I would bet your not the first to have a problem and THEY probably have a fix that is simple and one that doesnt require you to dance in a circle and plug into a vacuum tube

If the vendor doesnt help you
THEN
get on here and ask for help
Contact your Credit Card and STOP payment
then let us know who it is so we can all avoid themIF they dont help you

F-16WpnsTech

Too late to stop payment, we're on a roll! Put my doughnut on the left retract lead and flap jitter has virtually stopped = right flap none at all, left flap small twitch every 2-3 cycles. That'll definitely be passed along to the vendor Hellcat.

tevans55

Try coiled wire on your leads.

2walla

My Feedback: (10)

All electric motors generate noise. Either the brushes on a dc motor or the chopper circuit for a brushless motor. In this case the amps inside the servos in the wing are seeing it and are not happy. Caps on the motor may reduce it but it still will be there to some extent. Good luck. I gave up on electric retracts and went back to air.

on_your_six

My Feedback: (11)

I love my electric retracts on my B-25 Mitchell .. I had problems with the retracts yesterday on the Cessna 310D Songbird. Nose gear did not lock when extended.

I don't think that you can point a finger to either type and say that all is bad (or good) about one system. It seems to me at this point that the electrics (screw type) are less problematic. Just my current thinking.

If you get a bad actuater... you just need to get it swapped out. Now that you have it isolated to one side, send it back in for repair/replacement.

Bottom line, retracts are problems waiting to happen. You cannot bang them around.

stoneenforcer

My Feedback: (23)

curious, else where on your plane, are you using a y with a reverser ? or just using a servo reverser any where?
if so thats your prob. its picking up the rf from the retracts. if not, Its the controller unit giving much dirty feedback to the rx instead of isolating it.

ive had this very issue and found that my servo reverser was picking up the rf from my retracts and moving servos. i elminated the reverser and prob was fixed.

smperry

My Feedback: (4)

Same issue here. I contacted the manufacturer and was told that one gear motor had broken components. He suggested I unplug the gear one at a time and see which one was unplugged when the jitters quit. In my case it was the tail wheel. I have to find the time to pull the unit out and send it in for repair.

sp

paulemv

My Feedback: (23)

So now it's been a few months,how are they now? Did supplier fix it?

And What brand did you use? I have a stick built Balsa USA Mustang,andI'am just about to send them back for a retro fit with Electric

prop wash

I'll stay with air robarts.Had them now for -10/11 yrs.Took out the electrc retracts for my H9P47 and put Robart air in them,flawless.
Tom