kerwin50

I've changed the hinges on mine to the robarts. The hinge pins had some play so I changed them. I have really abused this plane. I love to go vertical chop the throttle when she slows down I go WOT and slam both my stick to the upper outside corners and hold them there. She goes into this awesome tumble then into a KE spin then into a high alpha inverted flat spins.
It's just plain crazy

Taz_Hobbies

My Feedback: (15)

There are adjustable standoffs out there that come with different thickness aluminum shims to tailor your length. I wouldn't try moving the cowl, removing the cowl ring doesn't seem like fun.
I know Redwing is on top of this stuff, but personally I would not shim the motor with wood shims / washers. I don't like the additional soft wood to "crush". Some guys do it without a problem, I just don't feel comfortable with that.

That motor box photo tells the story. With your motor box, I would guess that you should be able to use stock (2.5" I think) standoffs and get the right dimension to the cowl ring. On mine I ended up with 3 different sets before I got the measurement I needed, but I refused to use those little wooden spacers.

RedwingRC

Yes, that small amount will not change anything. Your washers are going to be wider than your standoff base

I've (for prototypes) had to stand off up to 2 inches before. There are all kinds of creative ways, but smiple and dirty, I've taken squares starting at about 1.5x 1.5, 1/4"think and stepping them down, to 1 3/8, 1 1/4, 1 1/8 etc, pyramiding them to a final size of about 3/4 inch.I've flown planes a LONGtime like this without any damage or excess vibration.The large foot print does a good job of transfering the enegery back and evenly.

RedwingRC

Oh, also, as far as wood washers - if you use plywood that is used in the firewall, then there should be no extra crush, than you would already have on your firewall.  There's wood to metal somewhere, whether you like it or not!

kerwin50

What servos are you using?

Now I'm using solar d770's on the elevator, So I've had to move my battery and throttle servo back by the rudder servo.
She now flys so much nicer and harriers better.
With all that weight up front, it made her just a tad snappy.

Taz_Hobbies

My Feedback: (15)

I didn't mean to offend you, that was not my intent. The truth is, the the density of the wood washers that many ARFs provide for that purpose are no where near the density or quality of the firewall ply. They crush, crunch, snap crackle & pop during tightening as mine did. They instantly went in the scrap wood bin. One less thing to worry about loosening up the motor mounts if you don't have them.

Just my opinion from my personal experience. I gave you props "I know Redwing is on top of this stuff" and then simply offered my experience, "but personally I would not shim the motor with wood shims / washers."
I never said you were right or wrong.

RedwingRC

Hi Taz
Non taken.  Just pointing out that an option is to just use firewall grade ply and make your own to stand them off. 

The ply they send with kits do tend to crush, but probably crush evenly. But it may assist in the bolts eventually loosening. 

kerwin50

I hope your build is going well. I just love mine. I flew her again tonight. We had a bit of wind and as I was bringing her into the wind in a harrier She had some wing rock. I started holdong some pressure on the naileron and rudder and beleive it or not as she was getting ever lower the rock stopped.

kerwin50

Now guys I'm pretty hard on airframes.
So tonight when I went to fly my MX a little voice spoke to me saying give a tug on your prop to see if the motor mount bolts are tight. I did and right off the bat I noticed a little play.
upon futher examination I discovered the motor box had cracked.
Nothing major to fix but if I hadn't of checked it it could of been a disaster

Taz_Hobbies

My Feedback: (15)

I pull my cowl after every flight day along as part of a full on inspection which includes going over every connector, clip, linkage, nut, bolt & screw. Last sunday I found 2 of the 4 aluminum servo arm pinch bolts had broken after my first morning flight.

It's always something on the gassers...

kerwin50

Yeah the gasser need alittle more maintance.
I've been working really hard on my harriers. Boy does this Green plane ever look good in the air.

RedwingRC

Gassers usually take about a dozen flights or so to find all those loose screws etc.  They vibrate a lot.  But once you get them set up good, BOY are they easy!!!  just one LITTEL battery to charge.  Not half a dozen.  Bring your radio and a can of gas and go!

Nothing beats that.

once you get them tuned in they are very easy to maintain. 

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

hey guys. Sorry for starting a build thread and not doing anything with it. I may post something trivial from time to time, but Im mostly planning on putting flying on the back burner until fall.

Ive had some family issues arise that Ive been tending to. And with deer and elk season coming, I have been working on getting friend's and family's rifles fixed and ready to go (now I need to make some changes to mine too). Now Ive got to start developing a hunting load for my dads new rifle I just finished. AND, to top it all off, its just too blasted hot here in the summer to be out baking in the sun. My flying weather is all year, minus the middle of the summer when its constantly over 100 degrees.

But to anyone looking here trying to decide whether or not to buy this plane, my impressions are to go for it. Tim is top notch service, the plane IS set up for the rear carb DLE30, and its a well built plane and the covering is astonishing. No part needs an iron or heat gun. Perfection.

Thanks guys, see ya soon,
Jeremy