Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
08-28-2012, 12:08 PM
#26
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
Epoxy should be mixed 1 to 1, not 2 to 1.
Every plane that I've built I always use epoxy to join the wings with. While it is possible on some planes to glue the wings together with just wood glue, you're better off using the epoxy. Follow the instructions for the plane and use the glues that are recommended. And in this case the instructions from Sig call for using epoxy to join the wings.
Ken
08-28-2012, 12:16 PM
#27
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: RCKen
Epoxy should be mixed 1 to 1, not 2 to 1.
Epoxy should be mixed 1 to 1, not 2 to 1.
08-28-2012, 12:22 PM
#28
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana
Instructions on the SIG bottle say " 2 parts A to 1 part B "
ORIGINAL: RCKen
Epoxy should be mixed 1 to 1, not 2 to 1.
Epoxy should be mixed 1 to 1, not 2 to 1.
I stand corrected. I just looked it up and you are correct in that is the ratios for mix the Sig epoxy.
But I still stand that you need to use epoxy for joining your wing halves instead of the wood glue.
Ken
08-28-2012, 12:25 PM
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: RCKen
Every plane that I've built I always use epoxy to join the wings with. While it is possible on some planes to glue the wings together with just wood glue, you're better off using the epoxy. Follow the instructions for the plane and use the glues that are recommended. And in this case the instructions from Sig call for using epoxy to join the wings.
Ken
Scroll down to Step 32
www.kavanrc.de/instructions/sigrc49kadetmkii.pdf
SIG Bond info page
www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/DetailProduct.html
08-28-2012, 12:34 PM
#30
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana
`
Just asking this question for fun... How much Epoxy do you think it would take to do a whole plane?
`
Just asking this question for fun... How much Epoxy do you think it would take to do a whole plane?
The fun answer would be its a moot question and who cares as few would ever attempt this.
Most epoxies marketed for our model aircraft hobby use not a two to one mix but a one to one mix. Mixing the sig stuff two to one would be harder to maintain consistancy from batch to batch.
Use the epoxie on the spar doublers. Very few instruction manuals are going to spoonfeed you through through what adhesive to use on each joint and as you have seem there are choices and opinions on which to use.
Use the epoxie on these critical doublers.
John
08-28-2012, 01:09 PM
#31
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana
So far all the SIG instructions have said is to "Glue" It has never mentioned "Use Epoxy or CA" in anything I've read.. So far anyways. I've really just started and am taking my time.. I just sanded the ribs on Step 8... I see a pic on Step 32 pic 30 that actually shows him using the SIG Bond, which if I'm reading the Info right from the SIG website is wood glue..
Scroll down to Step 32
www.kavanrc.de/instructions/sigrc49kadetmkii.pdf
SIG Bond info page
www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/DetailProduct.html
ORIGINAL: RCKen
Every plane that I've built I always use epoxy to join the wings with. While it is possible on some planes to glue the wings together with just wood glue, you're better off using the epoxy. Follow the instructions for the plane and use the glues that are recommended. And in this case the instructions from Sig call for using epoxy to join the wings.
Ken
Scroll down to Step 32
www.kavanrc.de/instructions/sigrc49kadetmkii.pdf
SIG Bond info page
www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/DetailProduct.html
Step #44 clearly states to use epoxy to join the wing halves together.
43.
Set the wing halves on a flat surface with one tip blocked up and the other half flat
on the table.
44.
Raise the one tip 4" at the last W-2 rib. If the joint in the center does not match
perfectly, sand one or both center ribs until it does. Glue the halves together with
epoxy glue. Have a "wet" joint to insure that the glue will fill any gaps in the seam.
It is particularly necessary that the planking sheets, the spars and the leading and
trailing edges are thoroughly glued to each other. Take up the wing as soon as
the glue has set. It is easier to remove the excess that has squeezed out of the
joint if it is peeled off before it cures completely.
This is why I tell people to completely read the instructions several times before starting to build a kit. Take notes, underline, highlight, circle important information along the way such as this so it's not missed when it comes time to start building. Also, read each and every step again before you perform the step.
Ken
08-28-2012, 01:20 PM
#32
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: RCKen
Bill,
Step #44 clearly states to use epoxy to join the wing halves together.
Ken
Bill,
Step #44 clearly states to use epoxy to join the wing halves together.
43.
Set the wing halves on a flat surface with one tip blocked up and the other half flat
on the table.
44.
Raise the one tip 4" at the last W-2 rib. If the joint in the center does not match
perfectly, sand one or both center ribs until it does. Glue the halves together with
epoxy glue. Have a "wet" joint to insure that the glue will fill any gaps in the seam.
It is particularly necessary that the planking sheets, the spars and the leading and
trailing edges are thoroughly glued to each other. Take up the wing as soon as
the glue has set. It is easier to remove the excess that has squeezed out of the
joint if it is peeled off before it cures completely.
Ken
08-28-2012, 01:32 PM
#33
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
Bill,
Now it's my turn to say I missed something. I looked back to what you said and I see what you mean. Yes, on all the internal parts of the wing such as the spars you can use wood glue. Use the epoxy to join the two halves.
Ken
08-28-2012, 02:27 PM
#34
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner
The fun answer would be its a moot question and who cares as few would ever attempt this.
Most epoxies marketed for our model aircraft hobby use not a two to one mix but a one to one mix. Mixing the sig stuff two to one would be harder to maintain consistancy from batch to batch.
John
The fun answer would be its a moot question and who cares as few would ever attempt this.
Most epoxies marketed for our model aircraft hobby use not a two to one mix but a one to one mix. Mixing the sig stuff two to one would be harder to maintain consistancy from batch to batch.
John
Yes, the SIG does call for a 2 to 1 ratio and it sucks trying to measure it out...
08-28-2012, 02:49 PM
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
The second page of the PDF says use CA or wood glue (your choice) unless otherwise noted.
A few steps that specifically mention using epoxy:
44, 47, 51, 52, 54, 55
I noticed a step somewhere that specifuically mentioned using CA but do not see it now.
A few steps that specifically mention using epoxy:
44, 47, 51, 52, 54, 55
I noticed a step somewhere that specifuically mentioned using CA but do not see it now.
08-28-2012, 02:49 PM
#36
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
I know it's a fun "what if" to think about doing an entire plane with epoxy, but in context with the subject of this thread epoxy on the entire plane would add enough weight that it would be noticeable. Epoxy is a heavy adhesive and should be used sparingly whenever possible.
As far as measuring out the epoxy. Here is a neat trick that will make it very easy to measure out. Get a small piece of clean cardboard. Take your first bottle of epoxy component and apply it to the cardboard in a small line. Now take the second component and right next to the first line apply a second line that is twice as long. Now use a hobby stick (a.k.a. popsicle stick) and mix the two components together.
Hope this helps
Ken
08-28-2012, 03:11 PM
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: carrellh
The second page of the PDF says use CA or wood glue (your choice) unless otherwise noted.
A few steps that specifically mention using epoxy:
44, 47, 51, 52, 54, 55
I noticed a step somewhere that specifuically mentioned using CA but do not see it now.
The second page of the PDF says use CA or wood glue (your choice) unless otherwise noted.
A few steps that specifically mention using epoxy:
44, 47, 51, 52, 54, 55
I noticed a step somewhere that specifuically mentioned using CA but do not see it now.
I read that part about choices, just always curious if someone has found out the "hard way" that a certain step should have been changed in the plans... Now after a few others have said to use the Epoxy on the wing spars, I wish I would have went with my 1st instinct and used it there no matter what the plans said... I guess will see what happens.
08-28-2012, 03:32 PM
#38
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana
I read that part about choices, just always curious if someone has found out the "hard way" that a certain step should have been changed in the plans... Now after a few others have said to use the Epoxy on the wing spars, I wish I would have went with my 1st instinct and used it there no matter what the plans said... I guess will see what happens.
I read that part about choices, just always curious if someone has found out the "hard way" that a certain step should have been changed in the plans... Now after a few others have said to use the Epoxy on the wing spars, I wish I would have went with my 1st instinct and used it there no matter what the plans said... I guess will see what happens.
Here in the context of the Beginner's Forum all the "what if's" really aren't something that really needs to be talked about. Yeah, I know that it's interesting and fun, but it can also be very confusing and misleading to others that might be reading this forum.
The plane you are buidling has been around for a very long time and is a very successful kit. Many pilots have successfully built and flown this plane. Sig has done a great job in putting together a great kit with good instructions. If you follow those instructions you're likely to not go wrong and wind up with a great flying plane. But when people start trying to "experiment" or try something new without any experience to back it up that's when they wind up with a disastor at the field and just "can't understand what went wrong". I've seen it more times than I can to think of, and that's why I give the advice I give. Nothing is worse than spending months building a plane and put it up only to watch it crash after a wing folds up because the wrong glue was used (only using this as an example, not trying to bust anybody out). I've seen that look of shear horror on a beginner's face when their plane folds up in the air and falls to the ground. Nothing sours somebody on the hobby quicker than that. But if the instructions are followed and the beginner builds a strong good flying plane, the smile on his face when that plane flies is a sight to behold. and when that happens its a good chance they will stick with the hobby for a long time to come. And that is all I'm trying to do here, help you successfully build your plane.
Ken
08-28-2012, 04:17 PM
#39
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
Guess I should have started topic in the Kit Building section, so it doesn't confuse anyone.
I wouldn't consider upgrading a particular grade of glue used in a certain step of the manual as "Kit Bashing" and I doubt that it is going to make the plane any way weaker and fall apart in the air. Maybe the other way around.. That would be a different story now wouldn't it? I can't see how someone would just assume that they could substitute with a lesser or weaker material. I guess there are all types of people though.. I am one that believes everything can be improved, and that is what the questions are about. To see if others have had an experience in where a part of the plan could be improved... I guess I could mention the Dihedral of the wings for one thing. I have read a few things about this.. These are the things I'm looking to know about as I build.. That is why I ask... As far as just building the plane from the plans, it's not really "Rocket Science"
08-28-2012, 04:22 PM
#40
My Feedback: (-1)
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner
Ah Yes but it lost its kick when they took the toulene out
Indeed the most enjoyable thing about using the cellulose cements was after the build session and watching 'Our Miss Brooks' on the little tube and chewing the dryed cement off your fingers, Yum[8D]
John
ORIGINAL: Gray Beard
I even have some Sigment on my bench that John doesn't care for. It's not the best product on the market but it does have it's uses. I still enjoy the smell of Ambroids!! Reminds me of my youth!!
I even have some Sigment on my bench that John doesn't care for. It's not the best product on the market but it does have it's uses. I still enjoy the smell of Ambroids!! Reminds me of my youth!!
Ah Yes but it lost its kick when they took the toulene out
Indeed the most enjoyable thing about using the cellulose cements was after the build session and watching 'Our Miss Brooks' on the little tube and chewing the dryed cement off your fingers, Yum[8D]John
08-28-2012, 06:17 PM
#41
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana
I can't see how someone would just assume that they could substitute with a lesser or weaker material. I guess there are all types of people though..
I can't see how someone would just assume that they could substitute with a lesser or weaker material. I guess there are all types of people though..
Grey Beard mothers are just that way Ya know
Bill, unfortunately this kind of thing happens all the time and does indeed result in losses. A great example of this occured here just a few weeks ago. A fellow bought a Butterfly, its an older glider like trainer with an engine in the nose and tricycle gear. Something over six foot in span.
The airplanes wing were two piece and split on two piano wire rods in the middle for transport. He purchased it somewhere and the rods were missing. He was told to replace the missing rods with proper piano rod, instead he went to the hardware store and bought wood dowel rod instead.
Needless to say on its first flight the wings colapsed in the middle just flying level and that was the end of that airplane and never saw him agine either. Thats the unfortunate part of these all to common situations.
Its a bad plan for a new flyer to start making major changes or major substitutions on their trainers untill they get some time under their belt.
John
08-28-2012, 06:45 PM
#42
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner
Its a bad plan for a new flyer to start making major changes or major substitutions on their trainers untill they get some time under their belt.
John
Its a bad plan for a new flyer to start making major changes or major substitutions on their trainers untill they get some time under their belt.
John
08-28-2012, 07:18 PM
#43
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana
. What I am going to do is build another set of wings when I feel comfortable flying the trainer as the plan says to build it. Then I'll probably reduce it by about half the angle the plan calls for.
. What I am going to do is build another set of wings when I feel comfortable flying the trainer as the plan says to build it. Then I'll probably reduce it by about half the angle the plan calls for.
That plan is if fine if you just stick with the stock dihedral at first. Now if you want to talk dihedral on a conventional trainer to make it more aerobatic for down the line forget just flattening the wing, lets talk anhedral. Using about the same anhedral as it formerly used dihedral will impart a very neutral roll response much like a pattern airplane and its that 'stays where you put it' feeling that is so prized by the pattern pilot.
Also the airplane will be more stabile than it would be if you had just flattened the wing. Just remember I definately do not recommend this for any one new as the achilles heels is the difficulty in maintaining orientation with the unusual configiguration. This is just one example of the time honored propensity of the modelers tendency to 'kit bash'.
Just don,t do it now!
08-28-2012, 07:35 PM
#44
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
Yeah I'll wait on something like that.. looks like a Nice place to fly though. If you ever lost your radio control on your plane you could watch it fly away for miles and miles.....
08-29-2012, 04:36 AM
#45
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: Lightspeed1551
CA is lighter. I have never broken a glue joint (CA or epoxy) in a crash it has always been in the area next to the joint.
CA is lighter. I have never broken a glue joint (CA or epoxy) in a crash it has always been in the area next to the joint.
Come to think of it, I haven't either. If the repairs are done right, it actually can become stronger and I think it is a misconception that repaired models become structurally weak. I'm not saying people should give their planes a CA or epoxy bath, but any brand of epoxy or CA will work well if applied right. I think brand is a matter of choice including what epoxy to use.
A ol'timer once told me that back in the 1950's when he was younger they put planes together with white wood glue. [X(] I don't think it would work with some of todays models- but what do I know. I'm just too chicken to try it and I'll stick with what I know works.
For me I use different thicknesses of CA for all the different types of applications I need it for. I use 30 min epoxy for the high stress areas and 6 min epoxy for the not so stressful areas, but need the strength that CA can't give me. Ultra thin CA for CA hinges or to make soft balsa stiffer, medium for the framing and some filling and thick CA for filling.
If I want to lighten up the epoxy and keep the same strength, or fill in those areas that have a gap then I will mix the epoxy with microballoons. Dents in balsa, I usually steam out with water and my covering iron. And I will use balsa filler for small holes or dents and cracks, (after mending it with ultra-thin CA) or use it to make sure I get a straight and level line removing slight skin warps on a smooth surface. (like using filler on a car body etc) The step by step method on how I use things is long and I don't want to bore anyone more than I already did. But keep reading the posts in RCU and RCG and you will learn a lot like I have over time, and you can decide what works best for you.
Everyone has their own way of doing things and none of them are wrong. I'm sure if everyone including myself can remember that, I think there would be less debates in the forums. For me when I build kits I usually use and do what the directions call for. It is rare that they are wrong, but that's why we have RCU and RCG build threads, so when there becomes a error in the directions we can spread the word a little better before there might be a Tech Update. When I "Bash" that's when at times I get a little more creative.
Over time everyone makes up their mind what works best for them in whatever application they are working with. Over time (things I must earn) in this hobby we all eventually learn what works, and from trial and much error what doesn't.
Pete
08-29-2012, 11:54 AM
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RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana
Now after a few others have said to use the Epoxy on the wing spars, I wish I would have went with my 1st instinct and used it there no matter what the plans said...
Now after a few others have said to use the Epoxy on the wing spars, I wish I would have went with my 1st instinct and used it there no matter what the plans said...
Or maybe I'm misreading.
In the steps where you are gluing the ribs to the bottom spar, and gluing the top spar into the the notch at the top of the ribs, you want to use wood glue or CA.
When you get to step 44, gluing the two wing panels together, you need to use epoxy. If you are going in order, that is the first time you need to use epoxy.
08-29-2012, 03:55 PM
#48
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
Reading all these "Truths" is somewhat -tome - comical. How the heck did we make it when there was slowing drying tube glues and slower glues I forget the name a powder that we mixed with water and let set-up for 24 hours on any hardwood items. When tube cements came on, they were just fine and Testors came out with a rather quick drying version, formula B. I built a number of models with that except there were some stronger glues took hours to dry except the powder stuff took a day and was stronger. There were several household cements that got into airplanes because they WERE THERE. The most popular model cement seemed to be Ambroid, but IMO it could not hold a candle to Testor's formula B.
Like other items that are marketed with certain folk saying this is the best ever, IMO Ambroid was an expensive waste. Now I would use SIG Cement a lot if the tubes did not have a .44 caliber hole in the neck.
The cement is basically like the old Testor's B, and I still like it in some construction. I use to write to them and try to get some change. Never happened.
Then came the first epoxy. That was great for bellcrank platforms, and engine bearers along with landing gear mounts. Then about 1967 or so here came the 5 min. epoxy. Well then we thought we had died and gone to Heaven.
Now I use whatever is in reach during construction. OTOH epoxy is used for many hardwood stress areas, and I generally use 5 minute. There are certain times that 15 or 30 minute gets in there especially for big gas burners, but I do lots of structural reinforcement beyond any kit or plan. Actually I still do my own design models. I just make a few sketches, measurements and start cutting, some measuring, gluing, reinforcing, bolting/screwing wood and metal. Other than the mentioned structural centers, it is usually CA holding parts together. Whatever gets painted gets flown.
For you newbies, I say build from kits or ARFs the first several machines. Be careful with engine mounting, wing saddels, landing gear installation and use extra beefing up beyond kit instructions if you think it looke not too strong. Then you will have plenty experience to go as you please. NOW THE BIGGIE: NEVER fly a new model with a Center of Gravity (CG) aft of 28% (25% preferrd). Once you get use to it then go for whatever you have the heart to do!!!
BTW, with most models today, glue weight is - IMO - not a significant factor. Have Fun flying.
Like other items that are marketed with certain folk saying this is the best ever, IMO Ambroid was an expensive waste. Now I would use SIG Cement a lot if the tubes did not have a .44 caliber hole in the neck.
The cement is basically like the old Testor's B, and I still like it in some construction. I use to write to them and try to get some change. Never happened.Then came the first epoxy. That was great for bellcrank platforms, and engine bearers along with landing gear mounts. Then about 1967 or so here came the 5 min. epoxy. Well then we thought we had died and gone to Heaven.
Now I use whatever is in reach during construction. OTOH epoxy is used for many hardwood stress areas, and I generally use 5 minute. There are certain times that 15 or 30 minute gets in there especially for big gas burners, but I do lots of structural reinforcement beyond any kit or plan. Actually I still do my own design models. I just make a few sketches, measurements and start cutting, some measuring, gluing, reinforcing, bolting/screwing wood and metal. Other than the mentioned structural centers, it is usually CA holding parts together. Whatever gets painted gets flown.
For you newbies, I say build from kits or ARFs the first several machines. Be careful with engine mounting, wing saddels, landing gear installation and use extra beefing up beyond kit instructions if you think it looke not too strong. Then you will have plenty experience to go as you please. NOW THE BIGGIE: NEVER fly a new model with a Center of Gravity (CG) aft of 28% (25% preferrd). Once you get use to it then go for whatever you have the heart to do!!!
BTW, with most models today, glue weight is - IMO - not a significant factor. Have Fun flying.
08-29-2012, 04:05 PM
#49
My Feedback: (-1)
RE: Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
ORIGINAL: Jacobs Jasta 7
Come to think of it, I haven't either. If the repairs are done right, it actually can become stronger and I think it is a misconception that repaired models become structurally weak. I'm not saying people should give their planes a CA or epoxy bath, but any brand of epoxy or CA will work well if applied right. I think brand is a matter of choice including what epoxy to use.
A ol'timer once told me that back in the 1950's when he was younger they put planes together with white wood glue. [X(] I don't think it would work with some of todays models- but what do I know. I'm just too chicken to try it and I'll stick with what I know works.
For me I use different thicknesses of CA for all the different types of applications I need it for. I use 30 min epoxy for the high stress areas and 6 min epoxy for the not so stressful areas, but need the strength that CA can't give me. Ultra thin CA for CA hinges or to make soft balsa stiffer, medium for the framing and some filling and thick CA for filling.
If I want to lighten up the epoxy and keep the same strength, or fill in those areas that have a gap then I will mix the epoxy with microballoons. Dents in balsa, I usually steam out with water and my covering iron. And I will use balsa filler for small holes or dents and cracks, (after mending it with ultra-thin CA) or use it to make sure I get a straight and level line removing slight skin warps on a smooth surface. (like using filler on a car body etc) The step by step method on how I use things is long and I don't want to bore anyone more than I already did. But keep reading the posts in RCU and RCG and you will learn a lot like I have over time, and you can decide what works best for you.
Everyone has their own way of doing things and none of them are wrong. I'm sure if everyone including myself can remember that, I think there would be less debates in the forums. For me when I build kits I usually use and do what the directions call for. It is rare that they are wrong, but that's why we have RCU and RCG build threads, so when there becomes a error in the directions we can spread the word a little better before there might be a Tech Update. When I ''Bash'' that's when at times I get a little more creative.
Over time everyone makes up their mind what works best for them in whatever application they are working with. Over time (things I must earn) in this hobby we all eventually learn what works, and from trial and much error what doesn't.
Pete
ORIGINAL: Lightspeed1551
CA is lighter. I have never broken a glue joint (CA or epoxy) in a crash it has always been in the area next to the joint.
CA is lighter. I have never broken a glue joint (CA or epoxy) in a crash it has always been in the area next to the joint.
Come to think of it, I haven't either. If the repairs are done right, it actually can become stronger and I think it is a misconception that repaired models become structurally weak. I'm not saying people should give their planes a CA or epoxy bath, but any brand of epoxy or CA will work well if applied right. I think brand is a matter of choice including what epoxy to use.
A ol'timer once told me that back in the 1950's when he was younger they put planes together with white wood glue. [X(] I don't think it would work with some of todays models- but what do I know. I'm just too chicken to try it and I'll stick with what I know works.
For me I use different thicknesses of CA for all the different types of applications I need it for. I use 30 min epoxy for the high stress areas and 6 min epoxy for the not so stressful areas, but need the strength that CA can't give me. Ultra thin CA for CA hinges or to make soft balsa stiffer, medium for the framing and some filling and thick CA for filling.
If I want to lighten up the epoxy and keep the same strength, or fill in those areas that have a gap then I will mix the epoxy with microballoons. Dents in balsa, I usually steam out with water and my covering iron. And I will use balsa filler for small holes or dents and cracks, (after mending it with ultra-thin CA) or use it to make sure I get a straight and level line removing slight skin warps on a smooth surface. (like using filler on a car body etc) The step by step method on how I use things is long and I don't want to bore anyone more than I already did. But keep reading the posts in RCU and RCG and you will learn a lot like I have over time, and you can decide what works best for you.
Everyone has their own way of doing things and none of them are wrong. I'm sure if everyone including myself can remember that, I think there would be less debates in the forums. For me when I build kits I usually use and do what the directions call for. It is rare that they are wrong, but that's why we have RCU and RCG build threads, so when there becomes a error in the directions we can spread the word a little better before there might be a Tech Update. When I ''Bash'' that's when at times I get a little more creative.
Over time everyone makes up their mind what works best for them in whatever application they are working with. Over time (things I must earn) in this hobby we all eventually learn what works, and from trial and much error what doesn't.
Pete
HOW MUCH EPOXY IN ONE COMPLETE BUILD?? About 15 years worth.
I just used about 6 ounces of CA and about an ounce of Epoxy in this build including the floats.
There was a lot of epoxy used in the gull sections, I use acid brushes to mix and spread epoxy. I buy several packs at a time at Harbor freight. Just starting to glass now. The other one is getting covered with TEX. This one is mine and it's fully sheeted and getting glassed. There were a lot of diffeent types of glues used in the builds. Bill what would you do about this dihedral???