micah11

How would I install a new Left C-Carrier and a drive cup on the rear of the spur gear? Thanks

nitrosportsandrunner

Um, which model

micah11

oh yeah, sorry about that! The Caldera SC 10e. haha

nitrosportsandrunner

ok
im pretty sure there is a tiny set screw under the c-carrier which holds the suspension pin in place.
Once thats removed, the pin can be slid out. then just remove the screw that holds the camber link to the top of the c-carrier.

On the drive cup thats behind the spur gear...similler part, its a set screw that holds the drive cup onto the output shaft of the spur gear. It can be done without removing the center spur gear unit. But if you only have those "L" shapped allen wrenches you may need to remove the spur gear unit by unscrewing the upper plate, and the screws under the chassis.

If you have a proper hex driver (should be 1.5mm, might be 2.0mm tho) then you can get that set screw without pulling it all apart.

micah11

Thanks for the info, got them installed. Now I ran it and the screw going up through the c-carrier fell out, luckily i have spares, but would blue locktite fix this? When I move the tire that screw moves, so would locktite lock that up? Also, It seems like it doesnt turn as much turning right than turning left. The servo horn was hhitting the end of the battery tray, so I Cut a notch out but it still doesnt steer right. any fixes?

Redcat-Derek

The screw itself will turn with the tires as it is threaded into the hub so that is good. But if the screw keeps backing itself out most likely the hub's threads are worn causing the screw to not be as tight. You can either replace the hub, or tighten it up again by using something like super glue on the threads. Letting it dry and putting another coat or two on it will make the screw had to re-thread it and thus be tighter.

For your steering, try removing your servo horn and turn the wheel back and forth. Look for the left and right being uniform in how far they turn and what they hit. As in when you are turned full lock left and right are both sides being limited the same?

Let me know if you nee some clarification.

Dads like rc too

it's a lot of money but this is an absolute must for the Caldera line. You'll wind up going through pair after pair of these knuckles until you replace them with aluminum one's. Then the screw will actually tighten without stripping.

http://www.redcatracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2299/.f

carslover

Dad's in my opinion i would never use aluminum parts, the just bend, plastic is cheaper, if they break they are cheaper to replace

Dads like rc too

I tend to agree, especially when were talking about aluminum control arms. But after replacing three sets of plastic knuckles in a 10 day period, I was done with the plastic. I bought the aluminum knuckles and they've been on the truck now for 14 months. They've never bent and the screws have never stripped out. Now when you look at the plastic suspension on my Monsoon, there is a world of difference. In fact the only parts I break on it are the metal ones, the plastic parts are rock solid.

carslover

i tell you what i love my monsoon! that truck will take a beating! i actually don't break too many parts on it, except for the last run it took a couple weeks ago, my best friend walked in front of it while i had the throttle pegged, and i turned quick and dumped the front right side into a cars tire, and all i broke were the A-arms!

micah11

I used the super glue trick, and it seems like its holding. if it strips again, I'll thing about the aluminum knuckles. Today I finally upgraded from the trickle wall charger, and got a Duratrax Onyx100. 25 minutes is so much better than 8 hours! 

darthinc

My screw stripped out too on the c-carrier, and I found a slightly wider screw and put it in with some blue lock thread, and it hasn't given problems yet.. when that breaks i will replace that part.