Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
#1
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Baltimore,
MD
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
Oh the mistakes! Even before I started with the CA , I pulled the wing ribs out of their sheets and cleaned them up with sand paper. The next instruction was to glue in place and be sure the tab(the one I just broke off) is touching the work surface. See the blue tape on the bottom of each rib, yep taped back on for the position required.
OK here is the question. The CA wheeze is coming back after only a few hours of glueing WITH a respirator. So on to the Titebond II. What is the reccommended dilution for this stuff? one to one as I need to get into some tight spots.
#4
Senior Member
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
No dilution of Titebond needed. Just keep it to a minimum - wipe with the ole finger and what is left is enough. It takes a couple of hours to tighten up nicely. I have q-tips and a cup of water at hand to clean up any excess outside of the joint.
BTW - we all use blue painter's tape to put the tabs back on the ribs!
Shameless reference to my own Hog Bipe thread
BTW - we all use blue painter's tape to put the tabs back on the ribs!
Shameless reference to my own Hog Bipe thread
#5
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Baltimore,
MD
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
aymodeler- I am impressed so far with the quality of the kit . The photos in the instructions are clear and sharp and the laser cuts and fit is great.
I have not tried any odorless yet. Using titebond for now.
Seamus, I have read your thread many times and I admire your work. I am using my 40 cal boxes to weigh down the wing right now.
I even went out and got a hollow core door to use as a flat work table.
Bill
I have not tried any odorless yet. Using titebond for now.
Seamus, I have read your thread many times and I admire your work. I am using my 40 cal boxes to weigh down the wing right now.
I even went out and got a hollow core door to use as a flat work table.
Bill
#7
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Baltimore,
MD
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
Seamus- Great idea, I will go to the LHS today and look for some 3/16" ply for those I struts.
After looking at your thread I have a question.
OK , how did you make that hatch cover ? BETTER than most ARF's . A work of art !!!
Can I buy one from you?
After looking at your thread I have a question.
OK , how did you make that hatch cover ? BETTER than most ARF's . A work of art !!!
Can I buy one from you?
#8
Senior Member
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
I just look at everybody's planes - new, old, scratch, ARF/RTFs. Some have creative bits and pieces.
The SSE canopy / cockpit hatch is made with a former up front, a former at the front of the cockpit (dashboard) and a headrest. Between the front former and the dashboard they use several 1/8" stringers with the front and rear formers cut to accept them. I just did the same using a lite ply base, lite ply formers shaped to match the HB "shape", cut some stringer slots, added stringers and then sheeted with 1/16" balsa. Also reinforce the sides of the fuse. Add a couple of cleats to the bottom that position the hatch bottom between the reinforced sides. I used 1/16" dowel to pin the front of the hatch into to back of the firewall area. A couple of magnets at the back and it's all good.
And, no, you can't have mine!
pic 1 - tank hatch on an SSE
pic 2/3 - top and bottom of cockpit hatch of an SSE
The SSE canopy / cockpit hatch is made with a former up front, a former at the front of the cockpit (dashboard) and a headrest. Between the front former and the dashboard they use several 1/8" stringers with the front and rear formers cut to accept them. I just did the same using a lite ply base, lite ply formers shaped to match the HB "shape", cut some stringer slots, added stringers and then sheeted with 1/16" balsa. Also reinforce the sides of the fuse. Add a couple of cleats to the bottom that position the hatch bottom between the reinforced sides. I used 1/16" dowel to pin the front of the hatch into to back of the firewall area. A couple of magnets at the back and it's all good.
And, no, you can't have mine!
pic 1 - tank hatch on an SSE
pic 2/3 - top and bottom of cockpit hatch of an SSE
#9
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Baltimore,
MD
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
Moving along with the build , Balancing act between slow enough to build it right and fast enough to stay excited.
The clamps are there for the balsa to lean against so the sheet will have a flush fit with the leading edge stock.the blue tape holds it tight.
After the glue dries , a little water / amonia mixture to shape the balsa sheet to the ribs and TA-DA.
The clamps are there for the balsa to lean against so the sheet will have a flush fit with the leading edge stock.the blue tape holds it tight.
After the glue dries , a little water / amonia mixture to shape the balsa sheet to the ribs and TA-DA.
#11
Senior Member
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
This post will seem totally out of context - oh, well -
I would free up the I-strut upper mount using an X-acto blade like pictured. You can use a tack hammer on it like a hammer-n-chisel. Light, light taps. Clean up the inside of the gap with the same tool. Clean up the sides of the upper mount with sand paper. Reglue and use spring clamps to keep it from creeping.
HTH
I would free up the I-strut upper mount using an X-acto blade like pictured. You can use a tack hammer on it like a hammer-n-chisel. Light, light taps. Clean up the inside of the gap with the same tool. Clean up the sides of the upper mount with sand paper. Reglue and use spring clamps to keep it from creeping.
HTH
#12
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Baltimore,
MD
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
Thanks Seamus-
This is what he was referring to :
The red pen shows a gap . The other photo shows the proper position.
To fix or not to fix , that is the question . I think because the piece is close to where it should be and glued in tight - move on.
Seamus ( a very talented and veteran builder ) suggested that I dig it out and move it.
This is what he was referring to :
The red pen shows a gap . The other photo shows the proper position.
To fix or not to fix , that is the question . I think because the piece is close to where it should be and glued in tight - move on.
Seamus ( a very talented and veteran builder ) suggested that I dig it out and move it.
#13
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Baltimore,
MD
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
The magnetic hatch over the fuel tank has kept me up at night concerned about how it would turn out well here it is. I was so worried that it would not be as good as SeamusG. And it might not be , but I am happy with this.
The last photo shows the two magnets held in place with very fine fiberglass cloth and a few drops of CA.
The last photo shows the two magnets held in place with very fine fiberglass cloth and a few drops of CA.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Gulf Shores,
AL
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
Don't know where you are now since it has been a while since you did an update......but it looks good so far!!!!!! Did you get the interplane mount issue straightened out? Steve
#15
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Baltimore,
MD
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
Still need to fabricate a balsa headrest , but both wings are done .
Starting to cover certain parts.
Getting excited to finish and fly it !
Starting to cover certain parts.
Getting excited to finish and fly it !
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Gulf Shores,
AL
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
Looks really good! You said you finished the wings..........You must have got the interplane strut mount issue resolved. Just keep on swinmming-You will get her built!!
One thing you might consider on the balsa headrest. I used a soft easy to carve chunk of balsa then put a single layer of glass using polycrylic as a filler. Should have used two layers of glass there. Mine is very easy to dent. That is a wear area that my stand contacts and the headrest catches considerable abuse if i am not careful.
One thing you might consider on the balsa headrest. I used a soft easy to carve chunk of balsa then put a single layer of glass using polycrylic as a filler. Should have used two layers of glass there. Mine is very easy to dent. That is a wear area that my stand contacts and the headrest catches considerable abuse if i am not careful.
#17
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Baltimore,
MD
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
Hey Steve, I have a Saito 100 all set for this bird. I saw some other hogs on here with holes so .....
As for the balsa headrest, thanks for the "glass " tip. Does 21st Century fabric go over fiberglass? Is the application the same as wood?
And I am sure all the builders will understand this: I have a vacation coming up in July and the entire focus will be completion of the Hog! (talk about not having a life !)
As for the balsa headrest, thanks for the "glass " tip. Does 21st Century fabric go over fiberglass? Is the application the same as wood?
And I am sure all the builders will understand this: I have a vacation coming up in July and the entire focus will be completion of the Hog! (talk about not having a life !)
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Gulf Shores,
AL
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
What's up????? Saw you posted some pics over on the hog thread.......You are coming along great! Won't be long before you are flying that machine. I have run about 1 1/2 gal of fuel through mine so far..It flys like a dream once i got a handle on it charastics and got the gear moved forward. Slung thge hatch off the other day doing a snap roll, but that was my fault. I had taken the tank out to test fit the tank style in a PCA-2 autogyro i am building, and when i put it back in the hog i didn't cinch it down tight enough and it shifted enough to pop the magnets aloose. Miracle we found ity in waist high sweet potatoes Check out the build thread on RCG when you get a chance.....It is under: Special Interest-Autogyros-2012 PCA-3 by Steve Keep me informed on your progress and give me a hollar if you need some help on a bit of brainstorming......Later, Steve
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mayking,
KY
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
ORIGINAL: shepard62
FINISHED !!!! 9 months of working on it . Now it's time to pick a day for the maiden.
FINISHED !!!! 9 months of working on it . Now it's time to pick a day for the maiden.
I have been overly busy the last couple years and unfortunately flying had to take a back seat. I've had the itch all summer to fly again, so this weekend I took the hog up to the field along with another plane. When I started assembling the hog, I realized I had left the inter-wing aileron connectors behind.......DANG! I wanted to fly it so bad. I flew my other plane a couple times but I NEEDED to fly my hog! (Light bulb went off!) I grabbed the packing tape out of my flight box, and secured the top ailerons flush with the top wing, now I had bottom ailerons only. I knew I could fly it with rudder only if the bottom ailerons weren't providing enough authority. I gritted my teeth and off she went into the most beautiful ascent I've ever seen with that 4-stroke purring away. This truly was the flight I needed to get back to flying again, my knees were weak as water I was enjoying it so much. It was a bit lazier with aileron control, but flew just as well as if I had top and bottom ailerons functioning. I came in for the best landing of my life, smooth, flawless, and straddling the center line (I owe that to the hog, not my abilities). My hog renewed my priorities with one single flight, man I love that plane! Hope you have (had) a great maiden flight with yours!
#23
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: washington twp.,
MI
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
Shepard62,
I'm glad I'm not the only one who broke off those tabs !! LOL. Other than that the kit was a pleasure to build. I may use the plans and built another this winter. I was concerned about how differently it would fly from a single wing, but I was pleasantly surprised at how well it handled. Let us know how your maiden goes.
Here are some pics of mine.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who broke off those tabs !! LOL. Other than that the kit was a pleasure to build. I may use the plans and built another this winter. I was concerned about how differently it would fly from a single wing, but I was pleasantly surprised at how well it handled. Let us know how your maiden goes.
Here are some pics of mine.
#25
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: washington twp.,
MI
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Beginner
Thank you,
It is my first plane covered with Ultrcote. I have used Monokote exclusivly up to this project, and thought I would give the Ultra a shot. I really like it. I never had much trouble with Mono, as some people have indicated, but I found the Ultra easier to work with. It requiers less heat and shrinks very well. It isn't as shiny as Mono but still looks great.
It is my first plane covered with Ultrcote. I have used Monokote exclusivly up to this project, and thought I would give the Ultra a shot. I really like it. I never had much trouble with Mono, as some people have indicated, but I found the Ultra easier to work with. It requiers less heat and shrinks very well. It isn't as shiny as Mono but still looks great.