stevekott

Thanks Dave! 

DrV

My Feedback: (2)

I Searched the thread for cockpit kit and could not find any info. Is there a cockpit kit for the classic flash? If there is where do I get one?

Thanks

Dave Wilshere

Both Flash models come with an ABS moulded tub that can be made into a nice cockpit with some work.

Dw

izzy

Anyone have pictures of their cockpits??

c_makhija

Mavrik!

Awesome!

Make me one please!


Mav

gooseF22

In the "flashes building this winter" thread is my cockpit, its an 1/8 scale F-18 cockpit, with a chopped up 1/6 scale pilot because at the time I couldn't find what I wanted.. I removed it for weight, so Im not using it.. PM me if you want to buy it.. dont need it..

indubitably

My Feedback: (14)

I dont have a cockpit, since i know whos flying the plane, and we dont have a lot of spectators to try and fool. What i like is to be able to look into the fuse tank, and see a 1/2 tank of fuel lef, and then take off for a couple of touch and goes, and then land. I like the landings, and take offs.
John

.....I was going to say something about going by too fast to see the cockpit, using a JetCat, and all. But then i thought of going out and flying in Vegas with Dave, and thought better of it.

Ruizmilton

My Feedback: (29)

Guys:

I'm finishing setting-up my UF and have encountered assymetric flap throw, one of the control links to the flaps requires to be shorter than the other in order for the flaps to be at the same position for the same servo horn position, has anyone else had this issue? this is the first time I have had this situation on any jet I have built, I believe I have a flap hinge geometry defect from manufacture.

Dave Wilshere

I have seen small differences with where the Flap horn protrudes further from the actual hinge line. How much difference do you have in the rod length?

Dave

gooseF22

Ruiz, I had the same issue on first setup.. As Dave said, match the rod length.. I had to use servo matching to get mine to stay together on the UF... they were about 1/4 inch off.. also, you might have to lengthen both rods and move the horn one or two teeth.. It took me a little trial and error to get it, but got it.. If you dont have the extra channel, use a matchbox.. works too..put the "mid point" at the takeoff position and subtrim to match them...then adjust the endpoints to match.. then set the flap settings to final settings... that way, when they stop at each point, they will be aligned perfectly at Up/mid/down..

Ruizmilton

My Feedback: (29)

Goose:

That's exactly what I did, I do have the extra channel, but wanted to use only one, so I used a matchbox and trimmed center on the mid flap position, it's working perfect right now...

c_makhija

Thanks Mav,

It took some time, not really worth the effort on a sport jet, of course a must on a scale jet.

Chatty.

miniman

I am building an Ultra flash and it will be the first model I have fitted retracts to.

Simple question to you guys....How/where do you run the brake pipe so that it wont get crushed or tangled when the retracts cycle.

This may seam like an obvious to most of you, but its driving me crazy.

Peter

Dave Wilshere

You need to cut a clearance ring in the plate for the tube to curle into

Dw

miniman

Thanks Dave,

I will try opening up the ring around the base of the leg.

Peter

miniman

Thanks Dave, problem solved, its amazing how a couple of pictures can solve a couple of hours of scatching your head.

Now all we need is a motor 6-7 weeks and counting.

Peter

miniman

I have been starting to fit the lower(upper) carbon bypass to the UF. We have a p120 going in the UF, and this has a kerostart plug fitted. JetCat say the motor should be installed with the kerostart plug at the top of the motor give or take 45degrees.

There is not much space around the motor/bypass to have the keroplug at the top (bottom of the model veiwed from the wing opening.

How critical is the positioning of the keroplug, so would it be OK to have it at the 2/10 oclock position?

Peter

john josey

Peter, since this your first retract with brake installation, remember to check the brakeline doesnt 'rub' off the tire sidewall when the legs are compressed (model sitting on the ground)

john

Dave Wilshere

See if Ali still has some of the P-20 kero plugs which was lower in height than the stock unit...that is how I got around it on my P-80SE UF
You can run the kero burner on the lower (wing side) with a small hole dremmel'd in the wing. But its more critical on starting with it on the lower side due to "pooling" in the burner which requires more watts and energy to burn off...

D

Ruymán

Hello!

Dave even in landing my Flash Ultra continues bouncing a little, I think because I have long since flap.

I've been in flaps 95 mm and 4 mm depth!

An aeroplane in Scotland which so you to the land and now tells me. Recommend me flaps to 80 mm and depth 6 mm.

Which I recommend you?

Thank you.

Dave Wilshere

More flap is more drag, so you have to carry more power to the threshold and fly the model onto the ground. There is no wrong or right, try less flap, but you need a longer landing strip or very flat approach so you do not gain speed as you lose height.

Dave

Ruymán

Thanks Dave for your answer!

Our track has nearly 140 meters and the truth is that large is not, especially for Jets. We will continue to nothing because testing.

Best regards.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAyQ8...5&feature=plcp

Dave Wilshere

140m is plenty! Your approach was good, just have confidence to come off the power fully 20m earlier (same wind conditions) and not fly the model into the ground, if you had help the UF off longer with up elevator it would have been a perfect touch down. Flap looked good, the UF will keep coming with the attitude you had on the approach, so you can come off the power earlier. If you slow down earlier you can fly it in with more power, but the nose will be slightly up then. So nose level/down less power earlier off power. Nose high more power and later off power

regards

Dave

miniman

Thanks John, with Dave's pictures and your advice the main reracts are working perfectly. I just need to sop the steering cables getting tangled on the nose gear and all will be well,

Peter